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Cicero posted:Hey goons, I'm looking for a solution to this: A pair of Ubiquiti AirMax Nanostation wireless bridges to carry the network over to your garage and another AP and/or switch placed inside the garage to provide connectivity to devices inside. Specifically 2x Ubiquiti Nanostation Loco M5 models. (http://www.ubnt.com/airmax#nanostationm) They are ISP/CPE outdoor grade devices that are designed to work over long distances. They are relatively easy to setup. With great signal they achieve around 98Mbps actual throughput in each direction. Hell even with a 50% signal they will still manage around 40Mbps. There are 2 versions, M2 and M5. The M5 models operate at 5Ghz and thus won't have to deal with the crowded 2.4ghz spectrum making things faster. They can be had for around $70-80 each. They have a LED signal meter on the back making alignment very easy. Hook one up to your router/switch at the apartment, configure it with the same IP scheme as your current network. Put it in "Access Point WDS" mode. Configure network name, encryption, etc... Point it towards your garage. On the garage side, configure this bridge again with the same IP scheme. Put it in "Station WDS" mode, enter the network name and encryption type/password you entered on the apartment side. It should connect within a few seconds. Adjust the garage one around until you get the best signal, either by looking at the meter on the back, or the device's configuration page. Your wireless bridge is now setup, connect the garage nanostation to your AP/switch. Your garage AP should be setup as purely an AP. No NAT/routing what have you... This is basically the same setup as CuddleChunks describes, just with devices designed exclusively for it. Ubiquiti makes several AirMax devices that all operate the same, however the self-contained Nanostations are best suited for this type of setup. stevewm fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Jan 3, 2013 |
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Jan 3, 2013 23:05
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Geektox posted:Thanks dudes, got it all figured out. Bought the ASUS router recommended in the OP, and even with the router in the basement I have perfect reception on the first couple of floors, so I moved my old router to the top floor as an AP. I was hoping I could have my desktop on a wired connection, but turns out my study is pretty much the only room without a RJ45 jack. I mean, our kitchen has 2, for christ's sake. Anything with a gigabit port will be Auto MDI/MDIX, and even some devices with a 100Mbps port. 99.9% of the time, you will be using straight-through wiring. These days the cases where you would use a cross-over cable are pretty rare. Keep in mind when making your own cables there are 2 wiring standards that dictate the arrangement of wires in the RJ45 plug. (http://www.dslreports.com/faq/4659) 568A and 568B. A "straight-through" cable would have both ends wired the same (i.e. 568A on both ends, or 568B on both ends). A "cross-over" cable would have each end wired differently. (i.e. 568A on one end, 568B on the other). Due to industry tradition, most pre-made patch cables you can buy or those that are included with equipment will almost always be wired 568B. So unless you are making a cross-over cable, you should stick with the 568B pattern all the way through. stevewm fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Jan 15, 2013 |
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Jan 15, 2013 23:52
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SeaborneClink posted:.......... I had this same problem with them when the company I work for built a new facility. The new facility was on the site of a former bar/lounge that had been long since demolished. Of course the new facility inherited the same street address. It went something like this:  = Comcast lackey = Me: Our system shows you already have a cable run with active signal, we'll send you a new modem, all you need to do is hook it up!: We don't have any existing cable runs, the building previously at this address was demolished a few years ago along with any cable runs.: But it shows here you DO have an active cable!: Again, the building that HAD the cable in it was torn down, a parking lot now sits where the old building at this address used to be, there are no existing cable runs!: But, but.... our system shows..... that.. you...: I don't care what your system shows, there are no existing cables here. We need someone here to do a site survey and get a new cable put in.: The modem is in the mail!: ............ 
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Mar 1, 2013 18:25
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Nask26 posted:My wife's company decided they wanted to install a business cable line in all of the employees house's as a backup measure. We already had Cox so the guy came out yesterday installed a splitter in our office and hooked up another cable modem. Is this normal? Is this only for the uptime guarantee that comes with business lines? Will I have any negative effects on my home connection since now its sharing the line? The only redundancy that provides is against the cable modem dying. If Cox goes out or anything happens to your line, both are going to go out. Sounds like someone at your wife's company didn't think that through enough...
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May 30, 2013 21:05
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Just got a Asus RT-AC66U to replace my crusty old WRT54GL running DD-WRT. Quite a bit disappointed with it at the moment though... 5Ghz is fine, but the 2.4Ghz has horrible speeds. My old WRT54GL would do 12-15Mbps with a 802.11g device all day long. The Asus seems to max out at 6-8Mbps no matter if its a B, G, or even a N device! The Asus is set to the same channel the 54GL was. The 2.4Ghz band in my area is not particularly crowded... There is at least 1 other AP on each of the non-overlapping channels, but it didn't seem to bother the WRT54GL. So far I have tried both the Asus beta and Merlin firmwares. Tried every channel, etc..
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Jul 11, 2013 14:30
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michael knight posted:Mine was giving me poo poo speeds (stock firmware, not the worst 2.4Ghz N pci card) on 2.4Ghz until I switched it to 20Mhz bandwidth, ........ That is the one thing I didn't think to try... I'll give it a go tonight and see if it works!
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Jul 11, 2013 16:01
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Well after setting my RT-AC66U to 20Mhz, changing channels, changing output power, resetting to defaults, etc.. I have not had any improvement. If I hookup my old WRT54GL (set at 150mW output power) I get around 15-20Mbps on channels 1, 6, and 11, which is expected for a G only device. The AC66U meanwhile struggles to reach 8Mbps. All 3 non-overlapping channels do have other APs on them in my area, but the WRT54GL has no problem with this! After a short Google search it appears there are plenty others noticing the same issue. Asus needs to work on this a lot more. I think I might be sending it back to Amazon.
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Jul 12, 2013 22:30
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I posted a page ago about having problems with horrible 2.4Ghz speeds using a Asus RT-AC66U... Happy to report I found the problem! It wasn't the Asus router after all. My HTPC has a old 802.11g USB adapter I am using temporarily until I can get CAT5e pulled to its location. It would appear that this adapter is malfunctioning and spewing out a lot of RF noise or something. Soon as that adapter is powered up, speeds for all 2.4Ghz devices on the same channel drop to well below 10Mbps (950KB/sec). If I unplug it, all devices return to normal speeds. My 802.11N devices now get around 7-8MB/sec on 2.4Ghz, which is normal.
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Jul 17, 2013 18:20
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Dogen posted:Is it the only G device? Might just be slowing down your entire 2.4ghz network to G speeds, some routers handle legacy equipment that way. Its the adapter... I have other G only devices that do slow the network down, but only when they are actively "talking". This one ruins speeds for everything that shares the same channel soon as its powered up. After testing again, the same thing happens with my old WRT54GL.. I had started using this adapter and the Asus router at basically the same time, didn't think that one particular adapter would cause these types of issues.
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Jul 17, 2013 23:25
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Papercut posted:This idea sounds like magic to me but my boss insists that I look into it, so I'm asking you guys. While Ethernet can generally work past the given distance limitations it is out of spec and problems should be expected to occur. Given what ModBus is used for, its sounds like missing or corrupted data could very well be a business liability. On that point alone I would go with a pair of media converters and fiber. Even the cheapest OM1 fiber using 100FX is capable of 2000 meters. That is assuming you have power available at both ends. stevewm fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Sep 20, 2013 |
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Sep 20, 2013 19:19
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IT Guy posted:I just rewired my apartment and then had an after-thought. I routed 3 cables of 30ft CAT5e network cable along side a power extension cord through some plastic wire loom. Will the power cable really affect my Ethernet cables in any way? Everything seems to be working fine but I've always been told this is a don't do in cabling. I really don't want to recable this poo poo now though. You are perfectly fine... Ethernet is very good with noise rejection. Its highly unlikely to cause a problem.
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Oct 3, 2013 15:02
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What kind of signal strength do you see on 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz at the client end? Speed is highly dependent on signal strength/quality. If your wireless client only has 1-2 "bars" even a few megabit HDTV stream might be too much... Also remember that while 5Ghz can generally reach higher speeds due to less interference, its effective range will be much less than 2.4Ghz. 5Ghz cannot pass through walls/floors/etc.. as easily as 2.4Ghz can.
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Oct 16, 2013 22:12
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knox_harrington posted:The first bit of my Ubiquiti kit has arrived, the Unifi AP. I've set it up, really easy and it's working well. The only thing is that it's advertised as a 300Mb access point, but it just has a 100Mb wired network connection. Marketing is part of the problem here... Wireless devices are half-duplex, which means they cannot send and receive data at the same time. However the bandwidth numbers marketed on wireless LAN equipment is the aggregate full duplex bandwidth, which they are incapable of actually achieving! So a "300Mbps" 802.11n device can receive at 150Mbps max, and send at 150Mbps max, but never both at the same time. This 150Mbps figure again is completely theoretical. Assuming you had absolute perfect lab-like conditions, the standard is capable of getting there. However in the real world, wireless N on 2.4Ghz in good conditions might reach 60Mbps. And on 5Ghz with a 40Mhz channel you might get very close to 100Mbps. To confuse things, the speed figures marketed on wired devices is typically the half-duplex figure. A wired Ethernet device can actually operate in Full duplex mode, which means a 100Mbps port can send 100Mbps at the same time it is receiving 100Mbps. Making its aggregate bandwidth 200Mbps. So as you can see, a gigabit port is simply not required, as the device will never reach speeds where it would actually be a limiting factor.
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Oct 28, 2013 15:53
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Pudgygiant posted:Unless you're sitting 6 inches away the wired speed won't be your limiting factor. I have 900mb .ac and gig LACP and I still barely push 300 to NFS. Actually with "900Mbit" AC you are getting what is basically expected... 900Mbit is the aggregate speed, so that is 450 for one-way. A good rule of thumb is that you will get 60% of that.. which is right around 300Mbps.
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Oct 28, 2013 16:01
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UndyingShadow posted:..... Same here... Asus RT-AC66U router, Asus' very expensive PCI-Ex adapter, etc.. Completely unused 5Ghz band in my area (as in I was the only one using it), 80Mhz channel width, etc.. and still never managed to get actual throughput much higher than a 802.11N adapter. I actually tried a few 802.11AC adapters all with disappointing results. The USB 3.0 adapters in particular where problematic... 802.11AC has potential, but in my opinion the equipment needs a little more time to mature.
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Nov 26, 2013 22:49
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After some firmware and driver updating I am finally getting decent 802.11ac speeds! Asus RT-AC66U router, Edimax EW-7822UAC USB3.0 adapter.. Updated the router to the newest firmware. The Edimax adapter uses a Realtek chipset (RTL8812AU), I found a generic driver that worked with it and was several months more up to date than the Edimax provided driver. Went from 7MB/sec to 35MB/sec. (56Mbit to 280Mbit)
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Dec 3, 2013 16:39
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A Proper Uppercut posted:..permissions problem... #1 - Check inheritance settings... Open the Security settings for the shared folder and then click Advanced. The "Applies To" column should read "This folder, subfolders, and files". #2 - If that is OK, then you might be running into a little pain in the rear end design choice MS made... http://support.microsoft.com/kb/310316 Moving a file from folder to folder on the same disk drive = file retains permissions of the SOURCE folder regardless of inheritance settings.. To get it to assume permissions of the destination folder you have to manually reapply permissions. If you are for example downloading a file to the desktop on the main XP machine, and then while on that same machine you move the folder from the desktop to the shared folder, it by design will NOT inherit the permissions of the folder its moved into. Moving a file from a different drive = file inherits permissions of the destination folder. Now if someone copies a file into the shared folder from another machine, it should be inheriting the permissions, assuming Apply To settings are correct.
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Jan 20, 2014 18:05
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ToxicFrog posted:The cat5 port on the PS3 doesn't work, but I'm not planning to stream to it or anything anyways. "N Only" is in fact N only.. Only 802.11N capable devices will be able to connect. You should set this to AUTO. Devices will generally attempt to use the newest standard they support.
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Feb 11, 2014 17:41
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mik posted:I've recently bought a new house that has direct line of sight to a beach about 500m away from an elevated position. I would like to beam a wifi signal down there so I can surf while I surf A Nanostation/Nanostation Loco M2 would be more appropriate than the Pico as the Nanostations utilize a directional antenna. Omnidirectional antennas are just not going to cut it at this distance. On the client side, the internal wifi is definitely not going to reach that far.. Your best bet would be getting a Mac compatible USB wifi adapter that has an external antenna connector on it, and a directional antenna. Alternatively, get a hotspot device from your favorite cellular provider. Or if you have a smartphone, have the hotspot feature on it activated.
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Apr 25, 2014 21:42
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- any recommendations on hardware to do that? I've been looking at the
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yellowjournalism posted:I used Wifi Analyzer and while there are a shitload of networks in the area, my network is the only one on its channel. I can't think of any new wireless thing that could've entered my apartment. On 2.4ghz there are only 3 non-overlapping channels that do not interfere with each other; 1, 6, and 11 (also 14, if you are in a county that allows that frequency). What channel is your network on? And which channels are the other networks using? If your network is on channel 11 for example, then any other networks on channels 7,8,9, or 10 are going to interfere with your network. If you are in fact on channel 11, than try moving to 1 or 6.
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May 8, 2014 18:56
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Josh Lyman posted:This is the same thing and is the only card that's recommended in this thread or the PC Parts picking megathread: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813995032 Just a FYI for anyone getting a Intel AC 7260 card... Absolutely make sure you have the newest drivers from Intel.. (https://downloadcenter.intel.com/SearchResult.aspx?lang=eng&ProdId=3714, 17.13.11 is the newest) The earlier versions had some major bugs that would cause random BSODs. There is also a sleep bug that has persisted for several driver versions and was just fixed in November's driver release.
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Jan 5, 2015 20:28
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skipdogg posted:Correct, with AT&T U-Verse you're at their mercy as to what your gateway/modem-router device is. They have 2 different models in circulation right now. They force the same hardware on business users too. Only way to use your own router without double-NAT is to enable Pass-Through mode. When your modem performs a firmware update, (that AT&T automatically sends out and your modem will automatically install) this setting sometimes gets disabled, and/or moved somewhere else on the modem. On some older models they removed it entirely during a firmware update.
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Jan 12, 2015 23:35
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I've had a RT-AC66U since they where introduced and couldn't be more happier with it. Has been 100% stable, never have to touch it. All my devices just work with it, and have great range. I have several AC devices. I can pull anywhere from 25 to 55MB/sec over 802.11ac depending on where I am at in the house. Reviews about signal for any AP should really be taken with a grain of salt... Signal is going to be highly variable depending on the local environment. If your local airwaves are crowded with other 2.4Ghz devices, then your 2.4Ghz performance no matter what AP you have is likely not going to be that great. If you do end up going with the AC66 (or others in that series). I recommend this firmware: http://asuswrt.lostrealm.ca/download It is the stock Asus firmware, with some hidden features re-enabled.
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Jan 21, 2015 21:23
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Antillie posted:The other advantage of WPA2-CCMP (a variant of AES-CBC) is speed. AES is significantly faster than pretty much every other non terrible block cipher out there when done in software. This doesn't really matter on a PC or laptop but on a phone, tablet, or other embedded device it can create a significant difference in wifi performance. It can even affect the APs themselves. My Unifi APs are lightning fast with AES but terrible with TKIP. It is also common to see AES hardware accelerated, modern Intel CPUs do this, and so do many embedded devices. But I have never seen hardware accelerated TKIP. The 802.11n-2009 specification artificially restricts network speed to 54Mbps max when WEP/WPA-TKIP is in use. This was done to help force adoption of WPA2. Furthermore, if your network is set to WPA/WPA2 mixed mode and a WPA-TKIP only client joins the network, all devices on the network will be capped to 54Mbps.
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Apr 14, 2015 15:03
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ryde posted:I'm looking for a quality router that is able to host DNS, either via custom firmware or default, so that I can name hosts in my internal network. Price range is $100-200. The top post recommends the ASUS RT-N66U. I know this is out of date, so I did some looking around and saw that the ASUS RT-AC66U was also recommended, but that is likewise a pretty old model (late-2013). Is there any generally recommended wireless router that can be configured to do DNS stuff? My RT-AC66U does just that. By default it's DHCP server hands out the router's own IP as DNS. Its internal DNS server will return the IP of any host on my network that grabbed their IP via DHCP. Any query not satisfied locally is forwarded to ISP's DNS. (to accomplish this, on the LAN/DHCP server tab, leave the DNS and WINS setting BLANK) The RT-AC66U is a fine router... I believe the RT-AC68U is its replacement. It has a slightly faster processor and USB 3.0 ports, but not much else is different. If you get a Asus router I recommend this firmware: http://asuswrt.lostrealm.ca/ It is the stock firmware, with some additional features enabled.
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Jul 28, 2015 15:31
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redeyes posted:I've got a C7 and after hacking the firmware on it it is ok. It does have good AC so that is a plus. It will require reboots from time to time but if you are ok with that, no problem. Ugh.... Glad I didn't go the TP-Link route when I was looking at purchasing a router..... I wouldn't accept having to reboot a router every day or even occasionally just to keep it working. I purchased a Asus RT-AC66U 1 year and 9 months ago. Installed the 3rd party Asuswrt-Merlin firmware on it. During that time it has only been rebooted because of a firmware update, a setting change that required it, and once during an outage as a trouble shooting measure which actually turned out to be the ISP's fault.
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Aug 11, 2015 15:34
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And in typical Ubiquiti fashion it will be delivered with half the heavily marketed features not present. They will be available "soon". And when they are finally available it will only be on a Alpha/Beta firmware. I love Ubiquiti and all, but their marketing department is often a year or more ahead of their actual R&D and production.
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May 9, 2016 14:01
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Just to add... Some routers have a option to help boot low signal clients. The Asus RT series routers gain this option if the Merlin-AsusRT alternate firmware is installed. You can configure the AP to boot clients when their RSSI drops below a certain level. This has the effect of forcing a "sticky" client to connect to a stronger AP. Unifi APs have this as well if you are on the latest controller software. It is a option in the GUI now called Minimum RSSI. I use it at one of our locations at work and it works quite well. We have several Motorola andoird tablets for scanning inventory and they are notoriously "sticky" devices; once the min RSSI function boots them, they will connect to the better AP nearly instantly.
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May 17, 2016 21:56
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CrazyLittle posted:.... Their managed switch interfaces are typically horrible too unless you buy one that has a serial console port... which is still pretty ungood. Meanwhile most of the other scrappy hardware makers try a bit harder to make their managed gear usable with snappier GUIs, full features CLI and console ports, text configs you can import/export/edit..... Even worse... some of the newest "smart managed" models don't even have a web GUI anymore. You have to use a Windows only utility to manage the switch. Its written using Adobe AIR and requires WinPCAP to also be installed for some strange reason. Just to change some settings on your switch.  Their regular un-managed switches are OK, and this is true of most manufacturers. Its hard to screw up building a simple dumb switch these days.
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Jun 27, 2016 20:21
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CrazyLittle posted:Yeah. I have a handful of GS108e switches. They're horrible. How do you configure one with a Mac? Run Windows. Even stupider... If you go to the switches' IP in a web browser you get a blank page. If you watch the configuration utility using a packet sniffer... it is communicating using http calls to the switch. So the web server is still there, they just yanked out the GUI and replaced it with a Windows utility. They also wrote the thing using Adobe AIR, which is meant to be cross platform, but it only works on Windows.
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Jun 27, 2016 20:28
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Deviant posted:But my negotiated link speed (620mbps on 5ghz vs 175mbs) on the two is well above the speedtest results, so it shouldn't be bottlenecking? Just to add to this... The "link speed" as shown in Windows (and also the WiFi speeds listed in marketing materials) is the "full duplex" or combined RX/TX speed of the connection, however wireless is inherently half duplex and can thus cannot transmit and receive at the same time. Because of this your max possible throughput on a 175Mbps link speed is actually 87.5Mbps. And depending on signal quality/strength/interference your actual usable throughput will be anywhere from 40% to 90% of that 87.5Mbps figure. Same goes for the 620Mbps 5Ghz link, your actual throughput on it is probably somewhere around 263Mbps assuming a good signal. Marketing for WiFi devices also uses this nomenclature.. A 3 stream 802.11ac device is typically marketed as "1300Mbps". Even worse is that many devices are marketed with the speeds of both the 5Ghz and 2.4Ghz radios combined. As an example you sometimes see a router marketed as "AC1900". This means a 1300Mbps 5Ghz radio, and a 600Mbps 2.4Ghz radio..
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Aug 15, 2016 14:51
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Agreed! Never tried a USB adapter yet that didn't have some sort of problem. Even cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-...yte+wireless+ac Uses a Intel 8260, which is a newer revision of the 7260. Pretty rock solid card. I average around 45MB/sec actual throughput with them. The Bluetooth portion of the card requires a USB connection to function, only the WiFi part works over PCI Express.
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Sep 14, 2016 21:33
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Internet Explorer posted:I only have time for a quick reply, but not having internal DNS servers is pretty normal for a consumer router. You should not need them, everything should work via NetBIOS, unless you are talking about other subnets or more advanced DNS features. Hmm.. My Asus RT-AC66 has it. By default it gives clients its own IP for DNS via DHCP. It forwards any requests it cannot satisfy locally to the ISP DNS servers. Any device that acquires a DHCP lease can be looked up by hostname. Makes it nice for devices such as a Raspberry PI that don't use NetBIOS. Edit: Wanted to add, while my router did have a internal DNS forwarder, the default DHCP settings pushed out the ISP DNS servers. I had to change these settings to push out the router's IP for DNS instead so the internal DNS forwarder would be used.
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Sep 15, 2016 16:53
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Just use the newest one from Intel. Don't bother with the CD, they are usually out of date anyways. There is a separate one for Wifi and Bluetooth. Wifi (Win10, 64bit) https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/26214/Intel-PROSet-Wireless-Software-and-Drivers-for-Windows-10?product=86068 Bluetooth (Win10 64-bit) https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/26067/Intel-PROSet-Wireless-Software-for-Bluetooth-technology-for-Windows-10?product=86068
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Sep 20, 2016 21:28
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I've had both a Asus RT-AC66 and a AC68.. On wired ethernet both of them were able to manage 950Mbps+ using my ISPs own speed test. With a 3x3 WiFi client the most I have ever seen is 580Mbps. And that was with the client practically on top the router.
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Oct 3, 2016 19:56
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MeKeV posted:I know not ideal, but how well does a 3 pack of UAP-AC-Lites work, with only one of them hard wired? They work fine, but as in most wirelessly uplinked systems, each wireless hop cuts the available bandwidth in half. (i.e. If a wired AP is capable of 450Mbps real throughput, the wireless uplink APs will top out at 225Mbps) For the UniFi system, the APs you intend on being wireless still have to be "adopted" to the controller software via a wired connection. Once they are adopted you can make them wireless. Instructions here: https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/205146000-UniFi-Set-up-UAPs-in-wireless-uplink-topology (ignore the bit about wireless uplink not being available on UAP-AC units, this is no longer true)
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Nov 22, 2016 15:26
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The Intel cards are great, just make sure you always use the newest drivers from Intel's website. The included ones on the CD and in Windows 10 (at least for the olde 7260 cards) have problems resuming from sleep properly. The Broadcom cards sold on eBay for Hackintosh use are also very good. (Example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Desktop-Wif...2MAAOSwiDFYNqe6) These work in Windows just fine. It is actually a Broadcom BCM94360CD chip, the same used in iMacs and the like. I have a 3 stream Broadcom card like the eBay auction linked above in my desktop, works great in Windows. I get about 550Mbps actual measured throughput with it on my Asus RT-AC66U router, granted though I am only about 10 feet from the router.
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Feb 23, 2017 20:41
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Rinaldi posted:Not sure if this is the right place to ask: I'd recommend calling the city/town/municipality office of whatever area you are moving to. They will often know of all the providers in the area. I've done this a few times at work when we were looking to build in new locations. Many towns/cities will also have websites listing who handles what utilities for the area.
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Mar 15, 2017 21:43
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jokrswild posted:Picked up two Loco M5's - going to do a bridge between my Brother's house and mine. 200m across a park, LOS, both setup outside. I imagine we won't have any issues at all. Single LAN should be fine.. Just make sure you have one and only one device handling DHCP in this case. Can't really go wrong with the Loco M5s... This is what they are designed to do. With that short of a link, you might have to turn the transmit power down on each end a little. Ideally you want both sides to see about -50. Any higher (say -45) could actually cause decreased throughput. With a good signal you should see around 95-98Mbps actual throughput no problem.
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Mar 16, 2017 19:46
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IOwnCalculus posted:I never bothered turning mine down on a shorter link, but both of them were also indoors. One in a house, the other inside a garage, aimed through the metal garage door. Being inside likely attenuated the signal enough. -55 to -50 is ideal. Any higher is too "hot" and will usually cause the link speed to drop off. I have a fleet of m5's links at work with short links of around 350m. I've had to turn the power down to about half on every one of them. Otherwise it would be sitting around -42, which while it worked, was actually slower at about 65Mbps.
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Mar 16, 2017 19:57
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