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tronester posted:I'm using Cox premiere home internet service. My speeds are fine, though the monthly data cap is only 250 gigabytes. When I had Cox service, my experience is that the data cap is very soft. I'd routinely exceed the allowance by 50 gigs or so each month and they never said boo. They rolled out the caps and the monitoring tool earlier this year in my area, and sent an email that said "We have data caps now. Use this tool and don't exceed them please kthxbye" Basically I'm saying that regardless of what the tool says, I'd be shocked if they actually ever nag you about exceeding the cap.
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Oct 23, 2012 18:07
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| # ¿ Apr 23, 2024 16:02 |
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So my parents have been complaining about their internet being crappy, slow and unreliable. I remembered that they had old hardware, so I asked for the model numbers on their modem and wireless router. Their cable modem is a Motorola SURFBOARD SB4100, but they unfortunately no longer have the 90's  box. They've probably had it for 12 or 13 years. Their router is a Linksys WRT54G2v1, and they've had it probably since 2008. It's wireless G, and they could probably stand to upgrade. http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-Linksys-WRT54G2-Wireless-G-Broadband-Router/dp/B0014J07R2 They have Cox, in Arizona. Cox's website says the following are their "preferred" models (which I think means, the ones that they sell) Cox "preferred" posted:Cisco DPC3825 (Single Band) Then they say, here are some DOCSIS 3.0 devices we support recommend as well. The Ultimate/preferred afterward is the highest compatible package that Cox will support on the modem. Preferred is 50mbps and Ultimate is 150mbps (with a biiiig asterisk next to that 150mpbs). I think my folks are on the 50mbps, so preferred vs ultimate isn't important to me. Cox other recommended devices posted:Cisco DPC3000 Preferred I have an older (6 years old) Scientific Atlanta DPC2100, which Cox supports, that I can give them. It's DOCSIS 2.0, which maybe would help their speeds and reliability somewhat? Their usage is one wired PC, two wifi connected blu ray players, an ipad and a laptop used for work/fun. I suspect they'd be happier using wireless N on their N devices. Here are my questions: 1. Are any of the combined modem/routers from that list worth buying? It looks like some of them are $100-125, which is probably the upper limit on what they'd want to spend anyway. 2. If not, should I purchase a new, modern standalone modem (like the SB2161 and a new router? Use my old (new to them) DPC2100 cable modem, and upgrade the router? Swap out the modem, router, or both?
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Dec 8, 2014 02:40
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Thanks folks. A 6121 and new router is on the way!
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Dec 8, 2014 06:22
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I'm thinking of running some ethernet cable. My only coax cable drop into the house (where the internet comes in) is right next to the TV (purple X). My router and everything is all there, and I'm happy with that. However, I need to get a cable to the red X, in the next bedroom (framed in yellow). Running cable through the inside of an exterior facing, insulated wall sounds like a nightmare. The house is wood framed stucco, and the interior is textured drywall, the house is about 15 years old. The ceilings are way tall, with no attic or crawlspace. The half-rear end cable installers would probably just drill a hole outside, run a cable along the roof line, and then drill another hole on the other end. I don't want to be a half-rear end cable installer homeowner, I want to give it a whole rear end effort. I'm concerned that that approach will look ugly on the outside and could cause moisture barrier issues. I have a phone jack in that bedroom that goes to *somewhere*. I don't know if that helps me, but it at least gives me a convenient hole to work in. It probably terminates at the electrical/phone box on the east side of the garage about halfway down. That little built in niche is a cabinet in the wall with the TV. I'm considering getting some flat ethernet cable and running it along the inside of my baseboards, under the front door's kick plate (in green) and then pulling it through the wall to terminate in a keystone plug on the far side. My baseboards are 5 inches tall, and have a groove in the back that would probably fit one of those flat ethernet cables. For as annoying as doing baseboards is (I did them all when I retiled the floors), I think it's going to be way easier than punching holes in the walls. Does that sound like a weird idea? 
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Jul 14, 2015 01:12
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http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wireless-Router-Gigabit-R6200/dp/B008HO9DIG Newegg has a flash sale on a refurb Netgear R6200 for $40. Worth it? I'm replacing an old, crappy b/g router so really anything is an upgrade, but if it's worth the extra $40 to buy something much better, I'd rather do that.
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Aug 10, 2015 22:44
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emocrat posted:So, do powerline ethernet adapters work well? I would like to connect my home theater setup to my router through ethernet, but the locations in the home make that difficult (but not impossible). Realistically, what would I expect from using a powerline adapter to connect a hub in the home theater to my router? Any recommended units? I would also like to know. Newegg has a coupon on this one so it's $20 this week http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127481&Tpk=N82E16833127481
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Sep 1, 2015 23:55
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http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Powerline-Extra-Outlet-PLP1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGIS Are those good? I want wired speeds without running wires.
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Dec 1, 2015 00:15
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Can I ask here about internet providers in the US? I'm in AZ. I just had someone knock on the door selling AT&T fiber, but she took the hint and left because I was wrestling 3 screaming toddlers. Said she'd be back tomorrow, and didn't have any literature to leave, which seems kinda weird. I definitely don't have a fiber drop to my house. All the coverage maps I see show just two decent providers (Cox cable which is ehhh and Centurylink DSL which is lolbad) There are some parts of my town that have Centurylink FTTH, and about 10% of the houses in my neighborhood have access according to the map at broadbandnow.com. This sounds scammy. Is it?
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May 16, 2019 04:45
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Well, what a pleasant surprise. Cox just increased their cable speeds here from 100mb to 150mb at no charge, out of the goodness of their hearts. In completely unrelated news, Centurylink Fiber just completed a big expansion into my area.
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Aug 13, 2019 22:38
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Cox just added gigabit to my area, so I have just upgraded to Fingerblast Internet. I have a new modem on the way, and am currently using an Archer C7. Is that router going to gate my speeds? I get pretty good coverage in my house.
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Sep 24, 2019 18:33
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Update on gigabit internet: My Archer C5 does not appear to be up to the task. It's dropping the WAN connection frequently. The Cox support dudes said the modem is showing totally OK diagnostics from their end, good signal, normal amount of T3/4 drops. The tech said it was really weird that he was seeing a flurry of IPv6 activity and address requests from my router, which makes him think that something's not right on the router's end with the IPv6. I give up with this modem. Ordered an Edgerouter Lite and a AC Lite, going to set them up this week. I have a smallish house and have no problem getting 2.4ghz signal anywhere, and get good 5 ghz coverage in about 2/3rds of the house. I'm somewhat network handy, though grossly out of practice since about the Windows XP era when home routers became idiot proof.
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Sep 30, 2019 16:53
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Twerk from Home posted:I've had half a dozen home routers get shifty with IPv6, and have always worked around by just turning IPv6 off. I know it's not ideal, but even my current AT&T router can't happily handle IPv6. Correction, it's an Archer C7. For some reason the little booger won't turn off IPv6. I go to disable it, it agrees, I restart, and it's back 
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Sep 30, 2019 20:05
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I'd like to install some ethernet cabling in my house (aka snakey bois). My home is traditional desert, slab-on-grade, no attic. Both the origin of the cable run and the destination are exterior facing walls. So, no attic, no crawlspace. I'm thinking my best bet is to run out the wall, then do direct burial for about 50 feet, then go through the destination wall. The other option is to run a cable up the outside wall and follow the roof line, but I think this is likely to look stupid, especially since the roof at that point is pretty tall, about 20 feet up. I want to run two cables. That said, any recommendations on where to buy ~150-200 feet of cable suitable for direct burial? I seem to recall that over those distances, I probably want solid strand copper rather than CCA, and I don't know how important it is to have shield/unshielded or rated for direct burial.
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Aug 24, 2020 19:03
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stevewm posted:You never want CCA cable, for any reason. Its poo poo. Thanks! Next question: Does shielded matter for this run?  It will be right next to an air conditioner (on the ground, on a concrete slab), that is running 70% of the days each year because I'm a dummy who lives in the desert. Will EMI be a factor and should I use STP? Or will 6 inches of dirt on top make that a non-issue? Also, I have gigabit internet at home and expect to live here for a while, so I want to bury good cable. Should I be using Cat 6A? canyoneer fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Aug 24, 2020 |
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Aug 24, 2020 19:32
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Jaxyon posted:I have cat5 already run in my house, but not the wall plates(contractor that remodeled just used cat 5 instead of phone line to every room). The thing you want to buy are RJ 45 keystone jacks. There are 2 kinds, the ones that require a punchdown tool, and those that don't. Here's how to do it with a punchdown tool. (like this one)https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM https://community.fs.com/blog/how-to-terminate-and-install-cat5e-cat6-keystone-jacks.html You can also buy the kind that don't require a punchdown tool, but I've never used one and they seem a little finicky. https://www.monoprice.com/manual/How%20to%20-%20tooless%20keystone.pdf There's going to be a wiring diagram printed on it, but the secret is that any pattern will work as long as it is identical on both ends 
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Sep 2, 2020 22:46
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Home networking success story: I have been having intermittent service interruptions on my cable network, from the WAN side. I also was not breaking 300Mbps, despite paying for gigabit speeds. On a hunch, I went out to the cable box, and found that the coax line from the street fed a 3 way splitter. One of those went to my cable modem, and I have no idea where the other two went inside my house. I removed the splitter and connected a straight coupler. I'm now testing at 980Mbps, and haven't lost connection yet. Check your boxes, cable customer goons.
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Sep 3, 2020 22:19
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lwoodio posted:So ATT can just pull my cat5 into their box on my outside wall and I'll be good? What you want is flexible, non-metallic conduit, aka smurf tube (because it's blue, get it?) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-in-x-100-ft-Electrical-Nonmetallic-Tubing-Conduit-Coil-Blue-12008-100/205874771 The 1 inch stuff will probably be too tight of a squeeze for 7 cables at about a quarter inch thick. Should work in theory, but I think it would be a bear to pull 7 runs through.
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Sep 29, 2020 18:37
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I spent the weekend digging a trench to run ethernet to my home office (no attic access, ask me how I discovered that) Now I'm getting 950/35 mbit speeds for superior posting speed (posting quality remains unaffected) I also had Cox run a tech out to diagnose my intermittent internet connectivity drops. He tried several things (including pulling a new line from the street) and told me my Motorola MB8600 was acting up, and tried an Arris modem off his truck. Worked great. He also told me that they were doing node splits in my area, and that my home is on the roadmap to eventually get a split with 10 or fewer addresses.
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Oct 12, 2020 22:10
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:A big gaping hole in plain sight? On a token ring network
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Dec 4, 2020 07:11
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| # ¿ Apr 23, 2024 16:02 |
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Replaced my dinosaur Archer c7 with a Dream Machine and thus far it's pretty great. My desktops are all wired so I never noticed problems before, but my wife really suffered with wifi connectivity on her phone. Now it's all good
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Mar 3, 2021 17:26
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