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You're really not going to get much out of an 8 inch subwoofer. You're better off just getting a pair of $200 studio monitors and adding a 10-12" sub when you have the budget.
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Apr 19, 2014 16:43
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I dunno, I have a previous version of that sub and it definitely adds useful bottom end to my 5" bookshelf speakers. Enough that I've never felt the need to upgrade to something that reaches lower frequencies / higher spl.
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Apr 19, 2014 16:52
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KillHour posted:You're really not going to get much out of an 8 inch subwoofer. You're better off just getting a pair of $200 studio monitors and adding a 10-12" sub when you have the budget.
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Apr 19, 2014 16:57
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powderific posted:I dunno, I have a previous version of that sub and it definitely adds useful bottom end to my 5" bookshelf speakers. Enough that I've never felt the need to upgrade to something that reaches lower frequencies / higher spl. Those bookshelf speakers already have 6.5" woofers. For the budget he's talking about, it's better bang for the buck to get a better bookshelf speaker/amp setup. japtor posted:Speaking of which, Audioengine P4s are $200 on their refurb site. The P4s are nice, but they're passive, meaning he'll have to stretch his budget to fit an amp in there. If I was going to go that way, I'd look for a deal on the Klipsch KB-15s http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-KB-15-4-Inch-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00AS3X740/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397923306&sr=8-1&keywords=Klipsch+KB-15 KillHour fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Apr 19, 2014 |
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Apr 19, 2014 16:58
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That may be true, but the Dayton's -3db point is 77hz and my 5" bookshelf set is -3db at 60hz, so if it helps mine it'd probably make an even bigger difference with the Daytons.
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Apr 19, 2014 17:19
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powderific posted:That may be true, but the Dayton's -3db point is 77hz and my 5" bookshelf set is -3db at 60hz, so if it helps mine it'd probably make an even bigger difference with the Daytons. God, those Daytons really are crap. What you should REALLY do is stretch your budget by 50 bucks and buy one of these: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/M3-6?device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CIPk6O357L0CFYMcOgodSjgA-w Then, buy another on credit. Edit: Real suggestion. http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/AV40/ + http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-...=item258cf869cc KillHour fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Apr 19, 2014 |
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Apr 19, 2014 17:21
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Anyone have any experience with Dayton Audio's DTA-120 T-Amp? http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120-class-t-digital-mini-amplifier-60-wpc--300-3800 My old receiver stopped being able to player stereo, and I need something cheap that can power bookshelf speakers and has a headphone jack.
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Apr 19, 2014 18:25
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:My old receiver stopped being able to player stereo, and I need something cheap that can power bookshelf speakers and has a headphone jack. Price difference is so small that I would suggest buying a Sony receiver if only for the remote. Refurbs start from $95. http://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDH130...stereo+receiver
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Apr 19, 2014 18:47
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Hob_Gadling posted:Price difference is so small that I would suggest buying a Sony receiver if only for the remote. Refurbs start from $95. I was sorta hoping for something smaller than a normal sized receiver. I'm considering the topping TP30 too, I'm thinking the built in DAC would be an upgrade over my onboard sound. http://www.amazon.com/Topping-TP30-Digital-Amplifier-USB-DAC/dp/B005D7SKWK Edit: or this nicer Topping T-amp http://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-Tripath-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Digital/dp/B00H6XDE4S/ Hashtag Banterzone fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Apr 20, 2014 |
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Apr 20, 2014 04:11
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I'm looking for a device that would allow my to easily switch between speakers and headphones on my desktop. I'm debating getting some m-audio m40s to pair my headphones.
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Apr 26, 2014 19:06
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kri kri posted:I'm looking for a device that would allow my to easily switch between speakers and headphones on my desktop. I'm debating getting some m-audio m40s to pair my headphones. well, the way I do it: external usb dac with two 3.5mm outputs (Fiio e07 or 09 whatever) and one output goes to my PC speakers, and the other output goes to a Schitt Magni amp powering some Beyerdynamic DT990s. I just leave the DAC at 50/60 volume and then turn my headphone amp on when I want to use it
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Apr 29, 2014 00:59
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Anyone have any experience with Dayton Audio's DTA-120 T-Amp? Not sure if you already pulled the trigger on something but I may have one of these for sale that has been sitting unused. It did a good job for what I needed it for but after I moved into a place with speakers in less rooms I haven't been making good use of it. Need to confirm I don't have a use for it when I get home but I think in probably good to let it go Edit: mine is a DTA-100a, but I only bought it 1.5 years ago so it's one of the later ones. MMD3 fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Apr 29, 2014 |
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Apr 29, 2014 01:32
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kri kri posted:I'm looking for a device that would allow my to easily switch between speakers and headphones on my desktop. I'm debating getting some m-audio m40s to pair my headphones. I have an Audioengine D1 DAC that acts as a headphone amp too. When you plug in headphones, it automatically disables output to the speakers.
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Apr 29, 2014 03:16
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MMD3 posted:Not sure if you already pulled the trigger on something but I may have one of these for sale that has been sitting unused. It did a good job for what I needed it for but after I moved into a place with speakers in less rooms I haven't been making good use of it. Thanks for the offer but I think I'm gonna go with one of the DAC ones instead, I like the idea of getting off my onboard sound.
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Apr 30, 2014 03:15
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looking to improve my lovely two speaker situation and upgrade to a quality budget setup. was looking to pair some micca MB42X http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2 with a Lepai LP-2020A+ (what looks like good compact preamp) http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ anyone have any experience with these brands?
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May 31, 2014 00:38
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Captain Cool posted:Are there any decent 2.0/2.1 speakers that can take an optical input, or do they all cut too many corners in order to include a DAC? Planning on upgrading to M-Audio AV40 + Asus Xonar DX/DGX/DSX. Other options in that price range (Swan, Klipsch, Audioengine) are recommended with caveats, but people seem to just plain like the AV40s.
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Jun 2, 2014 08:01
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I'd way rather have the AudioEngine A2's than the AV40's, what are the caveats to them? Other than costing $50 to $100 more and the rear mounted volume control, which are fair enough.
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Jun 2, 2014 22:54
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powderific posted:I'd way rather have the AudioEngine A2's than the AV40's, what are the caveats to them? Other than costing $50 to $100 more and the rear mounted volume control, which are fair enough.
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Jun 2, 2014 23:32
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I have A2's for my 2 fronts, but I'm looking for a set of passive full-range speakers to replace them so I can make them my rear channels. I have a great center and a 12" dedicated bass. Looking for a set under $500, but i can be convinced to spend more. I just don't want something super bass-y because I feel like I have that area covered, but I guess I can adjust it anyway via the receiver. Mainly I want a set that will sound good with my A2s. Also- I've been told not to use my A5+s with my receiver since they're powered but I've heard of people doing this with success. They're just getting lucky, right? TheEffect fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Jun 3, 2014 |
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Jun 3, 2014 18:21
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What receiver do you have? If you can hook up the A2 to your receiver, you can do the same with the A5+, since they're both active. That being said, you can generally get better passive speakers for the same price. KillHour fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 4, 2014 16:19
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My mistake. Not sure why I said A2, I meant I have P4s hooked up as my front channels. My receiver is a Denon x3000. I'm afraid of "frying" something if I use my A5+s. If not, I'd buy a set of full range fronts, use my P4s as my side speakers and my A5+s as my rears until I get something passive to free those up for something else.
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Jun 4, 2014 16:37
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It's not a matter of "frying" something. It's whether your receiver has the correct connections to even hook it up - which it doesn't. Like I said, buying an active speaker would be a waste of money, anyways. What are you using for a center? You generally want to match your center speakers and front speakers as closely as possible.
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Jun 4, 2014 20:39
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KillHour posted:It's not a matter of "frying" something. It's whether your receiver has the correct connections to even hook it up - which it doesn't. Ah, you're right about the connections. I'm at work right now and didn't even bother to check. Guess that idea is out of the question then since it wouldn't make sense for me to buy a DAC just to get these to work with my setup. I have a Klipsch RC-42 II for my center, so yeah I'm looking at a set of full-range Klipschs. Should've mentioned that before. So I guess I should just get the towers from the same "Reference" series then? http://www.klipsch.com/reference-home-theater-systems Edit: Guess I under estimated my $500 target range. TheEffect fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 4, 2014 21:12
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Yeah, the RF42 II is the best match for your centers, and should sound fantastic. And $500 is right on the money. http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-RF-42...ywords=RF-42+II You could bump it up to the RF52 II's if you want better bass extension, but you'll pay a premium for it. KillHour fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 4, 2014 23:06
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Sweet, thank you. If all I'm gaining is bass then what you linked is perfect. I have a 12" Klipsch sub from the "Synergy" series that gives me all I need in that area as far as I'm concerned. Now that I know I can't use my A5+s in my setup I was looking at the RS-42 surround satellites for my side speakers. If I do that should I continue to work towards completing my setup with some Klipsch bookshelf speakers for the rear channels instead of using my P4s, or can I keep the P4s since I already own them for my side or rear channels and get another set of them to complete my system? I understand it's best to get the same brand all around but will I personally, as an average dude who likes to listen to music and watch TV every now and then, really notice a difference if I don't use Klipsch for my side and rear channels? TheEffect fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Jun 5, 2014 |
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Jun 5, 2014 00:39
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The P4s will be fine. The rear speakers really don't matter much and you won't notice if they don't match. I think a 7.1 is overkill, too. As for the tower speakers, really what you gain with the RF52 over the RF42 is better extension as you get near the crossover point, meaning the transition between the sounds the subwoofer makes and the sounds the speakers make will be a smoother transition. Remember that if you set your crossover point to 80 hz, it doesn't mean it's an instant switchover. There's an overlap between the two, and the smoother that is, the better it will sound. That being said, the RF42's are excellent speakers, and will serve you very well.
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Jun 5, 2014 04:45
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Awesome, thanks for all the help man.
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Jun 5, 2014 16:57
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I'm looking at a pair of AV40 MKIIs for a set in my bedroom. I've got Rokit 8s for my primary studio setup, but I just want something decent to pump out background music or watch the occasional movie with. I really don't want to spend more than $150(CAD), so the Audioengine A2s are out. Is there anything else I should be looking at? I do not want a sub.
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Jun 7, 2014 20:33
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Captain Cool posted:The A2+s came up on Massdrop recently for $195, so the price can be in the same ballpark if you add a sound card to the AV40s. Otherwise, comparisons say they have less bass and they're not as good at a distance.
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Jul 7, 2014 18:51
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I'm thinking about getting a DAC and/or soundcard and a new set of speakers. I need to keep it under $250 total, but I'm willing to buy used. I've heard good things about the Schiit Modi and Klipsch ProMedia 2.1s. I already have a pair of Audio Technica ATH-M50 headphones, so I want a DAC to drive those. I like a V-shaped sound, and use case is for music (rock and folk), gaming and movies. Any recommendations?
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Jul 13, 2014 00:11
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MondayHotDog posted:I'm thinking about getting a DAC and/or soundcard and a new set of speakers. I need to keep it under $250 total, but I'm willing to buy used. I've heard good things about the Schiit Modi and Klipsch ProMedia 2.1s. I already have a pair of Audio Technica ATH-M50 headphones, so I want a DAC to drive those. I like a V-shaped sound, and use case is for music (rock and folk), gaming and movies. Any recommendations? For a quality DAC, if you have an S/PDIF or TOSLINK output, you don't have to spend more than ~$30: http://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-...eywords=fiio+d3 If you want something that connects over USB and comes with a dedicated headphone output as well, maybe look into the FiiO E10K. Or the Behringer UCA202, which is less than ~$30 and is pretty well-regarded, but I don't know how beefy the headphone output is. E: The headphone output on the UCA202 is probably not powerful enough. Personally, I would get a quality inexpensive DAC (FiiO D3 or Behringer UCA202/222) and a separate quality inexpensive headphone amplifier, such as this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/B-TECH-BT928-HEADPHONE-PRE-AMP/dp/B0016N5Q1S I've used a FiiO D3 for a while now, it's great. Before I moved to a preamp+DSP setup, I used a Millennium HP-1 headphone amplifier for a while. Unfortunately I think it's only available in Europe. It's black and boxy with an ugly yellow knob, and only takes balanced connections (so you need adapters), but it's inexpensive and powerful. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 08:20 on Jul 13, 2014 |
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Jul 13, 2014 08:04
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You realize a DAC isn't going to drive your headphones, yeah? The modi is a good DAC but it's just a DAC. You'd also need a headphone amp. I had the old Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 and, while the got loud, I much prefer the sound of my AudioEngine A2's, or most good 2.0 systems really. You'll definitely get more bass impact from the 2.1 system though. And the ATH-M50 doesn't gain much/any from adding an amp and DAC. If your system's current outputs are hosed and noisy it can be worthwhile (my laptop has a very audible hiss with most low impedance headphones) but otherwise it's probably not going to be much of an improvement.
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Jul 13, 2014 17:06
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How do people feel about the ADAM F5 speakers? I was thinking of grabbing a pair to replace my Klipsch Pro Media 2.1 setup. The 2.1 setup has started hissing and upon opening up the amp I've found that the speaker connector board has corroded from some glue they used. I'm trying to stay away from Logitech and the sort while also not wanting to incorporate a huge DAC setup. I've looked at a few powered speaker solutions and it seems DefTech's are unwieldily and Paradigm Shift A2 have hissing issues. I've read a lot of great reviews on the F5 but I'd love any input. I'm going to try and demo some at Guitar Center this weekend while I'm in Chicago and maybe grab a pair.
flyboi fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jul 15, 2014 |
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Jul 15, 2014 18:35
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Do you mean Adam? They seem to get good reviews and ribbon tweeters are neat. I haven't heard the F5's myself. You might look at the JBL LSR305/308 too. People really seem to like them for the price and I've been thinking of picking up a pair for our office.
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Jul 15, 2014 18:44
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powderific posted:Do you mean Adam? They seem to get good reviews and ribbon tweeters are neat. I haven't heard the F5's myself. You might look at the JBL LSR305/308 too. People really seem to like them for the price and I've been thinking of picking up a pair for our office. Yeah I meant Adam. I typod but fixed after.
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Jul 15, 2014 19:15
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KozmoNaut has a pair of ADAM A5X's for his PC. You might want to PM him.
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Jul 15, 2014 21:09
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^^^^ drat, ya beat me!flyboi posted:How do people feel about the ADAM F5 speakers? I have the A5Xs and I absolutely love them. The major differences are that the F5s have a glass fiber/paper woofer instead of the carbon fiber/rohacell/glass fiber in the A5Xs, 2x25 watt per speaker instead of 2x50 watt per speaker (and the woofer amp is class AB instead of class D), and F5 is slightly bigger physically. The A5Xs can also be linked together ("stereolink") so one speaker controls the volume of both, which is nice for multimedia speaker use plugged directly into a PC. On the other hand, the F5s have a built-in high pass filter for integration with a sub if you don't run an active crossover. I think maybe the F-series has auto on/off, or maybe that's the Artist series? And of course the F5s cost less. The tweeter is the exact same brilliant X-Art unit. Depending on what kind of prices you're looking at (and what kind of equipment you'll be plugging them into), the bigger amps in the A5Xs and the stereolink capability may sway you. But then again, a Fostex passive volume control (or similar from another brand) isn't very expensive at all, and that eliminates one of the advantages of the A5Xs. And I don't think I ever use the full 100 watts per speaker. So the question should be "is it worth it for the slightly fancier woofer and will I ever utilize the power of the bigger amps?". KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Jul 15, 2014 |
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Jul 15, 2014 21:21
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They're just going into my MacBook and my gaming pc. I do like the idea of the XLR capabilities but it appears that they don't carry the A3X at the store I'll be visiting. My office is a smaller room and most definitely do not need 100W. Only benefit really is the stereo link however on my current speakers I've always set volume to "max" and used my pc volume control negating the usefulness of that feature. I guess the F5 would be a better fit for me. Can't wait to check them out this weekend!
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Jul 15, 2014 23:09
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The F-series has a combo XLR/jack connector and the RCA connector, so that's actually one input option more than the AX-series. If your budget is for the F5 or the A3X, I would definitely go for the F5. E: There's a ~$180 price difference between the F5 and A5X, per speaker. The A3Xs are also ~$18 (per speaker) more expensive than the F5s. Easy choice, get the F5s. You can also get the Audioengine A5+s, they're very nice speakers as well, a bit more toward the "flattering" side than the Adams. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Jul 15, 2014 |
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Jul 15, 2014 23:45
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Budget isn't really a concern more the feasibility of the speaker. The A5X seems like too much speaker for my application and would be a waste of money for the gains that are likely not experienced without higher volumes going through them which was why I was thinking A3X. Thanks for your input, much appreciated. Unfortunately those other speakers aren't at the shop I'm going to but I'll definitely check the F5 vs the A5X before I pull the trigger as well as see if they have other powered speakers to test. I'm someone who likes to demo a speaker which makes purchasing kind of a PITA. I actually was just going to get another set of pro medias until I opened mine up to see why they failed. Klipsch uses way too much glue in their product and how mine failed is by far the dumbest location of glue ever. There's no reason for it other than to limit repairability and in the process destroyed them.  This is the back of the speaker terminal hookups and somehow the glue corroded the solder causing the signal to degrade.
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Jul 16, 2014 02:45
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