|
I needed new pc speakers and I ended up getting elac debuts and a 12 inch klipsch reference. Modified room setup etc. It sounds about as good as anything I've setup before. It's currently being driven by a Sony home theater receiver but my real goal is to listen to 2.1. The receiver has a direct mode so it's good but could be better if pc went to a direct amp. What is the current solution? Pc optical to a dac to amp to speakers? Cheap solid state stuff This will be sending out music, games would be on headphones.
|
#
¿
May 7, 2020 02:51
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 20, 2024 05:06 |
|
|
Ok Comboomer posted:Why, exactly, does it matter that the signal go to a “direct amp?” I assume this means bypassing the gain stage on the preamp somehow (with like a “pure direct” mode or whatever). More a concern about the internal amp in the home theater receiver. It does not want 2 channel sound and it especially doesn't want 2.1. You have to more or less trick it to let those channels play together, and when they do they are being affected by whatever surround profile they have to make 2.1 sound like 5.1. They goal would be a separate isolated amp for music that i'd switch over to home theater system for movies. Another oddity - I got my hands on a Sonos Connect:Amp. Anyone have any experience with it? Seems like it has plenty of power to drive the Elacs and has sub out. In that situation would I want to go directly to optical in or bluetooth dac or what? no pubes yet sorry fucked around with this message at 05:57 on May 7, 2020 |
|
#
¿
May 7, 2020 05:52
|
|
|
Ok Comboomer posted:That sounds like a really lovely receiver. What is it? Maybe just replace that whole motherfucker outright? I am actually in a return period still - Best Buy gave me the wrong device, was supposed to be a 2.1 basic receiver, instead I got a home theater unit: str-dh590. Among the issues, the "music" button tries to output dolby to my nonexistant 5.2. To have it sound pretty ok you have to hit the 2CH button until you are on direct. This is not actually just analog bypass though because you can still manipulate equalizer. I just want a clear signal with maybe a bluetooth dac or something. It sounds "good" when its on that but its crazy wack. It is as complicated as any sony device that i can remember, needlessly - tons of abbreviated setting names and whatnot, no physical manual. I can't wait to return it, as it sits it sounds incredible but I know it is being throttled big time. Anyway, I've got a couple hundred I could spend after returning that massive pile of poo poo. I might end up getting a home theater receiver later but i would just separate the connections. Hah: Relations between sound fields and speaker outputs: : No sound is output. : Outputs sound. : Outputs sound depending on the speaker pattern setting and content to be played back. 1) Outputs sound when you connect a subwoofer and set the speaker pattern to a setting ("x.1") that has an active subwoofer. 2) Outputs sound when you connect a subwoofer, set the speaker pattern to a setting ("x.1") that has an active subwoofer, and [Small] is selected for [Size] in [Speaker Setting] menu --- Some speakers or the subwoofer may not output sound, depending on the sound field setting --- https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1343547/Sony-Str-Dh590.html?page=33#manual --- It works fine as a home theater device I guess but if you are in any mode where it "outputs sound" to anything besides fr/fl/sw the overall wattage per channel gets axed and some sort of surround manipulation happens, cutting out parts so it is useless for music. no pubes yet sorry fucked around with this message at 07:13 on May 7, 2020 |
|
#
¿
May 7, 2020 07:02
|
|
|
Ok Comboomer posted:There’s a ton of excellent 2.0/2.1/2.2 options out there at any budget. From like a $70 Loxjie triangle on up really. What are the current winners? I'd be typically using the speakers for PC output so hdmi, toslink, USB or rca. I'd like to have the ability to use bluetooth but not a deal breaker as I could get a standalone bluetooth adapter but I am also unfamilar with those. Speakers can handle 120w per channel, 6 ohms. I could run line level to sub if amp doesn't have subout. Has anyone ever used a Sonos Connect:Amp? The one I will have access to is the older version, it can produce 55w per channel and is theoretically bridgeable.
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2020 07:23
|
|
|
I've navigated it to the point where I am outputting correctly on the receiver, it is just wildly difficult. If my wife wants to use it is is a maze of button presses and verifying sound fields etc. I kind of like a complicated receiver, reminds me of the 90s. Wrong tool for the application anyway. It looks like the Sonos device I have will be able to function as is. Since I am primarily using my pc for input I don't think it should be a big deal. The real goal is to get whatever small integrated or power amp or whatever is the current trend and let it be my amp and maybe a secondary device for inputs, bluetooth and optical ideally. I see a lot of stuff on amazon but I don't trust reviews. Audiophile forums are just bonkers. Any suggestions?
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2020 08:10
|
|
|
wormil posted:Would a upc/power conditioner help? I tested the outlets and they are grounded and wired correctly, not sure what else to do. From my knowledge if the issue is coming from the outlet a sine wave ups should solve the line noise. If you have some big EMF in the room from something else it won't solve the issue I don't think unless you installed isolating ferrous rings or whatever they are called.
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2020 02:02
|
|
|
bird with big dick posted:What do you think is being throttled, exactly Check out this document: Shot: https://helpguide.sony.net/ha/strdh59/v1/en/contents/TP0001560176.html Chaser: https://helpguide.sony.net/ha/strdh59/v1/en/contents/TP0001559306.html That is all new stuff to me since I've never dealt with a avr before - it is manageable but nothing really sounds clear, it all has some level of hollowness? something like that. Not sure what I should be setting it to for 2 passive speakers and a powered sub for music. It is wildly different depending on the setting. I got a sonos connect:amp for comparison a couple days ago and it is extremely clear and good but doesn't have enough power to really handle the speakers. I think my next step is to throw a decent dac in before the receiver and see if that takes out the boxy sound.
|
|
#
¿
May 14, 2020 02:14
|
|
|
Wow, so I got a headphone dac off mercari and it completely fixed my issues. I was going from a USB soundcard style thing ( https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coa...ctronics&sr=1-1 ). USB -> Coax, USB to RCA etc. That unit could have been contributing but even with a rca splitter it sounded pretty similar. The "dac" ( https://www.amazon.com/Fosi-Audio-Converter-Headphone-Pre-Amplifier/dp/B07G28C7TS?th=1 ) makes a huge, noticeable difference. Oddities: the receiver has bluetooth. Nothing sounds as good as the pc out connected. TV/Kodi sounds good through HDMI but pc always sounded washed out through HDMI. Maybe its the tiny bit of preamp the headphone dac is feeding in?
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2020 03:29
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 20, 2024 05:06 |
|
|
Near beginning of covid i started looking at this thread while searching for a new setup for audio. I've now got a full on component stereo with a 12 inch klipsch sub, elac speakers, nice technics turntable etc etc etc. Its a rabbit hole, I almost forgot how good things could sound.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 25, 2020 06:56
|
|