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Space Gopher posted:Start, right-click Computer, click Manage. Go to Disk Management. Find your system partition in the graph on the bottom half of the screen, and right-click it. Select "Extend Volume..." and follow the prompts, and you can expand the partition to fill the new drive. This doesn't work when you have a recovery partition in between the main disk and unallocated space. 
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Aug 4, 2012 07:27
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Nam Taf posted:gParted or equivalent can then move the recovery partition to the end, putting the blank space after the main partition and then extend it fine. Hmm, maybe I'll give that a shot. I think I need to secure erase this drive because I believe the write speed has been cut in half after cloning a drive to it 3 times with Clonezilla, trying to get this to work.
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Aug 4, 2012 14:14
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Nam Taf posted:gParted or equivalent can then move the recovery partition to the end, putting the blank space after the main partition and then extend it fine. This worked great, thanks. The secure erase didn't change the write speed so I guess I was remembering some screenshot I saw and not my netbook. I'm guessing this is as fast as it's gonna get.
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Aug 4, 2012 23:19
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Nam Taf posted:Great to hear. The speeds might be an unrelated issue eg: controller being weird or something like that. Perhaps explore those options outside just the disk itself? Yeah, I did. Erasing the drive was the last thing to try. Got some performance out of switching to the MS AHCI controller from nVidia. Not sure there is anything else to do. I haven't found any benches on an HP Mini 311 with a Crucial M4 with CrystalDiskMark to compare it with. It sounds like they're just slower on nVidia chipsets. edit: Looking a little further, just swapping to the MS AHCI driver isn't quite enough. Apparently, some people have gotten better speeds by a re-install of Windows without the nVidia chipset drivers. I'll leave it alone for now though, it's still way better than it was. Obsurveyor fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Aug 5, 2012 |
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Aug 5, 2012 02:34
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Red Robin Hood posted:This should work for you: http://bit.ly/MUzdNU Jackass(only because you hid it behind bitly). Add the discard option to your fstab for the partitions on the SSD.
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Aug 9, 2012 19:56
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Martello posted:All Programs -> Accessories -> Paint. Even easier, just type Paint in the search bar on the Start menu or hit Winkey+R and type mspaint.
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Aug 13, 2012 15:47
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When cloning an SSD to a new SSD, is it worth defragging the old one? (The old one is an OCZ, I don't give a poo poo about its writes)
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Aug 15, 2012 20:46
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Category Fun! posted:I just got an SSD, and I'm going to copy my OS over with Paragon Migrate. Do I just need to move the Windows folder over or are there others that need moved as well? It depends which version of Windows. Windows 7 would need the Users folder and some stuff in Program Files/Program Files (x86) of course. There's hidden stuff in the C:\ that is needed to boot too. I would assume the tool you are using is smart enough to grab the right stuff though.
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Aug 20, 2012 23:28
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Red Robin Hood posted:So when my M4 gets here how do I see what firmware it's running? Is that BIOS only or can I look for it in the device manager? It's clearly printed on the SSD's case, just look at the drive before you put it in.
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Aug 22, 2012 16:57
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DamnGlitch posted:This is valuable information to maybe have in the op...since I'm waiting for an ADATA to come in the mail There are plenty of good recommendations in the OP to choose from to begin with. Why choose an unmentioned one to save a few bucks?
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Sep 1, 2012 23:20
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DamnGlitch posted:To... save a few bucks? Nothing I read said anything about those drives being POTENTIALLY problematic. What other reason could there be to choose anything other than what's recommended? ADATA wasn't mentioned in the OP until this issue was brought up, so why choose that over known quantities such as Intel, Crucial, Samsung, Mushkin etc, as mentioned in the OP, if money wasn't the reason? quote:The op said don't buy an old drive or an OCZ. I sure as hell didn't buy a fuckin' OCZ. Sure, it also has very specific recommendations based on the particular application that should probably be followed unless there's a good reason not to.
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Sep 2, 2012 03:10
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Q_res posted:Seagate used to be considered pretty good, right? But I think you're talking 10+ years ago at this point. Yeah, everything has changed. Seagate is poo poo and Western Digital is better when WD used to produce absolute garbage that would fail inside a month. Nowadays, I don't really trust any hard drives so I just buy whatever has the longest warranty because I don't keep anything I really care on them that isn't backed up elsewhere. I just had to replace a 1TB Seagate that was failing and just got a 2TB Hitachi because at least it has a 3 year warranty.
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Sep 18, 2012 16:06
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milkisgoodforu posted:Just decided to peak in this thread after already purchasing an OCZ Vertex 256gb SSD in a Newegg sale a couple days ago. Is OCZ terrible enough that I should send the thing straight back as soon as it comes in the mail? Make sure it's even returnable. Newegg likes to pull that crap with SSD sale stuff to get rid of the stinkers for good. I think you get around this by outright refusing the package. Probably your best bet, regardless.
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Sep 23, 2012 06:23
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El Grillo posted:Anyone had any experience with SATA power adapter splitters? They're available online, but I have no idea if they're actually useable. I'm running 2 Seagate 7200 HDD's (320GB & 500GB) from one cable (with two plugs) at the moment. Power is still separate from data on SATA and most power supplies feed all the devices power off the same rail, so I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work.
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Oct 4, 2012 18:14
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Guitarchitect posted:It's a Crucial M4 128gb, around 10 months old (got it early in the new year after a previous drive failed with a stuck spindle). Sounds like the 5000 hour crash to me. Update your firmware after that was announced?
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Oct 5, 2012 20:25
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Phoenixan posted:Thanks for this. I had the firmware downloaded to update from 000F to 01MG, and I'm glad I checked the thread before running it. I firmly believe there is no reason at all to do any kind of firmware/BIOS updates, including SSD ones, unless there is an actual issue with my hardware that requires it.
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Oct 18, 2012 12:16
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DamnGlitch posted:Depends on the firmware. I think you should at least read up on it, otherwise things like the 5000 hour bug will seem incomprehensible when it hits. Dogen posted:Yeah that would fall under "actual issue with the hardware", I would imagine. Yeah, you have to follow and read release notes to know if there's an issue, unless you just hear about it. I can give an example though: I recently upgraded to 32GB of memory and my boot times went to like 3 minutes. I typically never, ever update a motherboard BIOS unless I'm having trouble. Read through the release notes of the upgrades between what I had and what had been released and find a note about slow bootups with 32GB. I didn't see any other notes that might affect other things on my computer so I upgraded and went back to the 8 second boots I was expecting. Obsurveyor fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Oct 18, 2012 |
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Oct 18, 2012 17:48
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Bob Morales posted:After loving around with Clonezilla and EaseUS and who knows what else, I just booted a Ubuntu LiveCD and did the old 'dd if=/dev/sda of=/dev/sdb bs=8m' Just keep in mind that unless you were cloning from an SSD, your partition(s) may not be aligned. I think this can lower performance.
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Oct 26, 2012 01:09
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Skeptic posted:I'm just about to update from a 120GB SSD to 240GB SSD and came to ask this exact question. I don't really need to re-install the OS and software and was wondering if dd had any "gotchas" or if there is a better method. If you installed Windows 7 originally to the 120GB SSD you should be just fine. I went from a 60GB SSD to a 256GB SSD and my alignment was maintained. You can check it pretty easily after copying by running msinfo32, going to Components->Storage->Disks and making sure all your "Partition Starting Offset" values divide equally by 1024.
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Oct 26, 2012 03:18
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Baggins posted:My system BSOD'd and refused to restart in to Windows, error code 0xc000009. Swapped SATA ports for the SSD and now it boots and seemingly works correctly, but it has me a little spooked. Should I be most concerned about my SSD or my board? The error code from the BSOD doesn't help without the name of the file that caused the error.
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Oct 26, 2012 13:13
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inkblottime posted:However there appears to be a micro sata connector in the empty space (where it points "REMOVE") between the bays (near bay one, facing bay two (empty)). That's the connector for a bluetooth or wifi accessory card. Note the wire holder for the whip antenna to the south of the REMOVE logo. The black mylar pad is to protect the laptop's motherboard from the accessory's circuit board. The two screw posts on the right end of the black mylar pad are to retain the card in place. The second hard drive connector is probably just to the left of the camera flash. You are going to have to get that part from HP, along with the sled that holds the drive in place. The cable you linked to on Amazon is not it. Obsurveyor fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Oct 28, 2012 |
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Oct 28, 2012 06:20
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DrDork posted:First there's the fact that, even with all the people this thread has recommended buy the 830, there's never been anyone that I can recall coming back complaining of a bricked 830. There definitely have been troubles with the 830 in this thread. Just not very many that I recall: Rescue Toaster posted:I know it's totally anecdotal, but after years of happiness (luck?) with OCZ, my very first 'Real' brand SSD, a Samsung 830 128GB, choked and died halfway through Win 7 install, and now gives various IO errors during BIOS detect and is detected as a 1GB drive by Windows when I attach it to my desktop as a secondary. Magician (Samsung's utility) detects no Samsung drives in the system. lord funk posted:I think my Samsung 830 is defective :/ . It regularly locks up my 2010 MBP, and acts like this support discussion.. I guess I'll replace it under warranty.
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Nov 5, 2012 01:19
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Ryuga Death posted:I've been reading some SSD tweaks pages and ran across some things I'd like to ask about. Should I really disable indexing? Indexing is purely a user convenience thing. I turn it off because I rarely, if ever, search and the SSD by itself is fast enough to make up for it when I need to. quote:Or is this one of those cases where if it's not broken, don't fix it? Yes, to everything else. DrDork posted:It depends on your workload and your system. If you have 8GB of RAM and never get close to using it all, you can probably reduce the page file without any ill effects. On the other hand, if your workload involves programs and whatnot that attempt to utilize more RAM than you have available, it can cause system crashes. I suppose you can always shrink it a bit and if you run into problems, bump it back up. But the safest option is to leave it alone. System crashes without a page file are extremely rare. You have to get a specific set of things to occur to make it happen, for Windows 7 at least. Windows will start killing apps first. I ran just fine with 16GB and no page file and every now and then, when I would have way too many tabs open in Chrome or Flash would start leaking memory, it would kill something and I'd realize what was going on. Now that I have 32GB, I never get close to max memory and it's just not an issue.
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Nov 20, 2012 14:52
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comper posted:I made sure that my drive had 000F on it. Last night after an on and off power outage, the drive was not recognized in the BIOS. I unplugged the SATA and power connectors, reset the CMOS and reconnected the SSD and it still would not initiate. I tried the fix and got it up and running by letting it sit for about 20 minutes.
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Nov 29, 2012 16:53
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fookolt posted:Yeah, but that time when the drive failed to initialize on 000F firmware scared me something fierce. They're not dead in this state, as far as I understand, it is recoverable with no data loss. That's what lets me sleep at night. Until it actually happens, there's no point changing it. It may never happen because it might not be a problem for your combination of hardware.
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Dec 7, 2012 20:34
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Civil posted:No one has had BSOD problems with the Samsung 830, right? Haven't had a single one since I swapped out a 60GB OCZ Solid 3 for a 240GB Samsung 830.
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Dec 10, 2012 14:03
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pmchem posted:They entirely fill the disk, then immediately start running a random write test. Anyone who runs out of space and then has something swap? Most people don't spring for 512GB SSDs. If they gently caress up something that 9 out of 10 manufacturers don't, it's still a good reason not to buy. Who knows what else is screwed up in the firmware that's more important.
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Dec 11, 2012 22:39
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Call Now posted:I was supposed to buy a Samsung 830, but then someone gave me an OCZ Agility 3 for free. Is it okay to use or should I just sell it to someone else? I think we should stop responding to dumb posts like this one.
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Dec 22, 2012 15:24
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