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mewse
May 2, 2006

Aphex- posted:

The top panel on the H440 has some soundproofing foam inside it and the only exhaust for air is like a thin strip along one edge of the panel so it seems like the radiator just dumps heat onto itself and only gradually lets air out the side part. From the looks of things there's probably about 1cm of space between the top of the radiator and the soundproofing foam.

When I was deciding radiator placement I watched this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNAMxZgvves

Not everyone agrees with this but it was enough for me to go with front placement

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Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum

mewse posted:

When I was deciding radiator placement I watched this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNAMxZgvves

Not everyone agrees with this but it was enough for me to go with front placement

Yeah I actually saw that the other day. I'm going to try out the front mounted radiator next, and if that doesn't seem to help I'll definitely be on the lookout for another case with better airflow.

KillHour
Oct 28, 2007


I always wondered why people don't just mount the radiator outside of the case. The whole point of water cooling is to move the heat somewhere else. That somewhere else should probably not be 4 inches from where all the heat is.

craig588
Nov 19, 2005

by Nyc_Tattoo
Space and effort reasons. When I did watercooling I used a car heatercore outside of the case, but that involved lots of extra work that a lot of people don't want to put in. I also had a 12 inch or so 115V fan blowing though it which was very quiet and didn't put a load on the power supply, but again, lots of work to get it relayed up to run with the PC. AIOs are made to fit in weird cases with minimal effort, I used like 4 foot tubes with my loop, for people that don't want to keep the radiator outside of the case 4 feet of tubes would just be a mess.

KillHour
Oct 28, 2007


There could literally be a false case top a few inches above the real case top that you mount the radiator to. Air would come in from above and leave out the sides without ever going inside the case and keep roughly the same form factor. You would just need appropriate wire and tube grommets.

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker
In an old house with ugly and trashed carpet in the office I ran a water cooler with the lines going through the floor into the basement where I mounted a 360mm radiator with 3x 110cfm delta fans out of an old server rack. The resulting temperatures at idle were often 1-2C cooler than the ambient room temperature because it was typically 5C cooler in the basement than the first floor. And at load it pretty much never passed ~50C due to the insane volume of air that the fans were pushing (you could feel it blowing from 15 feet away).

AARP LARPer
Feb 19, 2005

THE DARK SIDE OF SCIENCE BREEDS A WEAPON OF WAR

Buglord

Indiana_Krom posted:

In an old house with ugly and trashed carpet in the office I ran a water cooler with the lines going through the floor into the basement where I mounted a 360mm radiator with 3x 110cfm delta fans out of an old server rack. The resulting temperatures at idle were often 1-2C cooler than the ambient room temperature because it was typically 5C cooler in the basement than the first floor. And at load it pretty much never passed ~50C due to the insane volume of air that the fans were pushing (you could feel it blowing from 15 feet away).

Awesome. This is my dream set-up. Or somehow incorporating an outdoor fountain.

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker
Dug up some old pictures I have of it:


KillHour
Oct 28, 2007


Gooncave and gardens

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

While that's loving awesome and creative, having a radiator mounted at the top of the case with fans pushing the air up and out through the radiator you're basically not adding any heat to the case at all. I wouldn't put a radiator at the front of the case pulling air in through it because my GPU needs all the thermal headroom it can get since they all throttle at some temp.

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker

VelociBacon posted:

While that's loving awesome and creative, having a radiator mounted at the top of the case with fans pushing the air up and out through the radiator you're basically not adding any heat to the case at all. I wouldn't put a radiator at the front of the case pulling air in through it because my GPU needs all the thermal headroom it can get since they all throttle at some temp.

When you are just using an AIO on the CPU, placement is a trade off: Intake and the CPU runs cooler, but the rest of the system gets hotter. Exhaust and the CPU runs warmer, but everything else runs a little cooler. The difference depends somewhat on the case but IIRC from an article that tested the different orientations in a fairly well ventilated case showed a repeatable 3-5C difference between the two methods with a decent AIO cooler.

This is why we build custom loops with both the CPU and GPU cooled from a single exhaust radiator. Best of both worlds.

Darth Llama
Aug 13, 2004

I've not overclocked anything before, but I had an Amazon gift card to burn and grabbed a 200GE to play around with. I've got it in an MSI Bazooka with the newest BIOS which unlocks (I think) only two things, the CPU multiplier and voltage. I have it from 3.2 to 3.8 now with a 1.35vcore. (It also was stable at 3.6/1.25.) Temps seem good. Not under load it is at 35C and under testing maxes at 67. I did not use the stock heatsink, but I used a spare one I had from a pre-Wraith FX8350, since I assumed it would dissipate more heat (larger and with pipes).

It would not boot at 3.9 with 1.35. How close to 1.4 should I consider pushing it? The overclocking guides seem to put them at about 3.9 or 4.0 for their OC benchmarking. I'm pretty pleased with the 3.8 as-is though.

craig588
Nov 19, 2005

by Nyc_Tattoo
If you want it to last "forever" I'd keep it there, if 3 years or less is fine go to 1.5 V if it benefits. That's not to say it will die in 3 years at 1.5 V, but longevity will be affected and for some people a 200GE doesn't matter or some might want to keep it.

Mufasa Nigel
Jul 8, 2005

It might as well be my 1st time overclocking, I put my old 2500k up to some amount with a hyper 212 slapped on, it worked, forgot about it for 5 years.

I just bought a new pc, gigabyte z390 auros pro and a 9600k. I'm still using the hyper 212 for now, I'll probably get the recommended noctus eventually. What realistic overclocks can I get currently?

I tried 1.25v, and a 45 multiplier for now, and some guide told me with this mobo to turn the load line configuration to turbo.

Ran prime95 blend for 20 minutes, temps reached 80ish. Seemed ok, the bit I don't understand is my voltage was jumping around alot, I'm guessing it's this LLC. Highest was 1.35v.

Is this expected with the turbo setting? If so I'll just leave it at that until I get a non ancient cooler.

Edit: I will say I don't care about squeezing every last MHz out of the processor, just what is easily obtained without going crazy on cooling. If I can dodge buying a new one as I'm already close enough, fine by me. I want it to last until I can be bothered to upgrade again (5 years, again)

Mufasa Nigel fucked around with this message at 10:51 on Jan 15, 2019

90s Solo Cup
Feb 22, 2011

To understand the cup
He must become the cup



Still playing around with my Ryzen 2700X build. Currently have it dialed in at 4.22 Ghz @ 1.3625v with A-XMP on at 3200 Mhz. Idle temps waver between 32 and 34 degrees. Temps during Cinebench hit 70 while Prime95 took the chip all the way to 85 degrees before settling back down to 83ish. Air-cooled with a NH-D15S in a NZXT H500 case whose cooling I'm still trying to figure out. Just wondering if anything about this sounds right.

BTW, my NVMe drive doesn't seem to like FSB overclocking. Setting a BCLK of 102 put it in a boot loop.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Mufasa Nigel posted:

It might as well be my 1st time overclocking, I put my old 2500k up to some amount with a hyper 212 slapped on, it worked, forgot about it for 5 years.

I just bought a new pc, gigabyte z390 auros pro and a 9600k. I'm still using the hyper 212 for now, I'll probably get the recommended noctus eventually. What realistic overclocks can I get currently?

I tried 1.25v, and a 45 multiplier for now, and some guide told me with this mobo to turn the load line configuration to turbo.

Ran prime95 blend for 20 minutes, temps reached 80ish. Seemed ok, the bit I don't understand is my voltage was jumping around alot, I'm guessing it's this LLC. Highest was 1.35v.

Is this expected with the turbo setting? If so I'll just leave it at that until I get a non ancient cooler.

Edit: I will say I don't care about squeezing every last MHz out of the processor, just what is easily obtained without going crazy on cooling. If I can dodge buying a new one as I'm already close enough, fine by me. I want it to last until I can be bothered to upgrade again (5 years, again)

When you say your voltage is jumping around a lot what voltage are you monitoring and what software are you using to check? It could be like VID which isn't what your CPU is getting. The LLC setting is good (turbo). I've been drinking all night and going to fall asleep now at 8am but other goons will reply if you answer those questions.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe

Balliver Shagnasty posted:

Still playing around with my Ryzen 2700X build. Currently have it dialed in at 4.22 Ghz @ 1.3625v with A-XMP on at 3200 Mhz. Idle temps waver between 32 and 34 degrees. Temps during Cinebench hit 70 while Prime95 took the chip all the way to 85 degrees before settling back down to 83ish. Air-cooled with a NH-D15S in a NZXT H500 case whose cooling I'm still trying to figure out. Just wondering if anything about this sounds right.

BTW, my NVMe drive doesn't seem to like FSB overclocking. Setting a BCLK of 102 put it in a boot loop.

As I peruse through threads on overclock.net to come up with ideas to play with I've seen a few people that can't go over 101 BCLK if there's something plugged into SATA ports 5 and 6. You have anything plugged into those?

I might try some BCLK stuff with mine as well but I've been pretty happy with the PE4 setting and the negative voltage offset that I've been running. My voltage is still a bit higher than I'd like so I need to try some other things.

90s Solo Cup
Feb 22, 2011

To understand the cup
He must become the cup



fknlo posted:

As I peruse through threads on overclock.net to come up with ideas to play with I've seen a few people that can't go over 101 BCLK if there's something plugged into SATA ports 5 and 6. You have anything plugged into those?

Probably. But at this point, I'm a bit skittish about making another go at a BCLK overclock after hearing about people losing their NVMe drives altogether.

Also, I swapped the top stock 120mm fan with a 140mm Noctua from my old PC. That managed to knock 2 degrees off temps during the latest Prime95 run and idle temps are now between 30.5 and 31.5 degrees.

It also seems Ryzen won't drop below 3.94 Ghz at idle, even with AMD Cool'n'Quiet enabled.

SeaGoatSupreme
Dec 26, 2009
Ask me about fixed-gear bikes (aka "fixies")
Just repasted my gtx 980, it still had the stuff from the factory on it. Looked and felt like a wad of hard clay. Didn't have anything decent on hand to fix it, so I ended up using some basic Thermaltake grease.

Idle went from 67 to 40

Load Temps went from 85+ to 65 at a much less aggressive fan curve, while boosting about a hundred megahertz higher on the gpu. It's basically silent, too.

Everyone with a card more than three years old really, really should replace the thermal paste if their idle is above like 45c.

E: vv you got me, thermal paste not tim

but I am technically correct which is the worst kind of correct

SeaGoatSupreme fucked around with this message at 10:34 on Jan 25, 2019

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

NOT THE TIM, just to be clear he means the thermal paste. You can't delid a gpu.

TheJeffers
Jan 31, 2007

Balliver Shagnasty posted:

Probably. But at this point, I'm a bit skittish about making another go at a BCLK overclock after hearing about people losing their NVMe drives altogether.

Also, I swapped the top stock 120mm fan with a 140mm Noctua from my old PC. That managed to knock 2 degrees off temps during the latest Prime95 run and idle temps are now between 30.5 and 31.5 degrees.

It also seems Ryzen won't drop below 3.94 Ghz at idle, even with AMD Cool'n'Quiet enabled.

Base clock on Ryzen really is a fundamental platform clock for PCIe etc., not a separate domain for the CPU only like it is on Skylake-and-later Intel stuff. You really, really don't want to mess with it any more if you can avoid it, especially since people were mostly using it to get around challenges to memory overclocking in the early days of Zen CPUs and that stuff has largely been ironed out with the many, many AGESA updates since.

Also, yes, the system management controller for Zen CPUs enters an aptly-named OC Mode when you overclock them and part of that mode disables dynamic voltage and frequency scaling with load. I don't think it adds more than a few watts to idle power draw so it shouldn't do anything noticeable to your power bill if that's the concern.

90s Solo Cup
Feb 22, 2011

To understand the cup
He must become the cup



TheJeffers posted:

Base clock on Ryzen really is a fundamental platform clock for PCIe etc., not a separate domain for the CPU only like it is on Skylake-and-later Intel stuff. You really, really don't want to mess with it any more if you can avoid it, especially since people were mostly using it to get around challenges to memory overclocking in the early days of Zen CPUs and that stuff has largely been ironed out with the many, many AGESA updates since.

Also, yes, the system management controller for Zen CPUs enters an aptly-named OC Mode when you overclock them and part of that mode disables dynamic voltage and frequency scaling with load. I don't think it adds more than a few watts to idle power draw so it shouldn't do anything noticeable to your power bill if that's the concern.

Thanks. Coming from an overclocked Intel build, dealing with the various quirks of Ryzen overclocking is pretty different. Now I can rest easier knowing that I'm not burning a ton of power just because I missed something. As far as SATA ports go, I have to double check those at some point.

TescoBag
Dec 2, 2009

Oh god, not again.

Hi guys, anyone have experience with the Z390 Aorus elite?

Just bought myself a 9700k.

I'm trying to overclock to 5ghz, and the OC guide says to set LLC to turbo (hating the fact you have to type everything in rather than there being a drop down.) so I have done that (I see it's been recommended a lot online) and heat suddenly increased significantly while I was doing testing. Was getting a nice 75 degrees C before setting it to turbo, is this because LLC will decrease voltages automatically or something and the 1.27v I had set was way too high?

I've been reducing it, I'm down to 1.23v at the moment and I'm now down to 80 degrees stable. I more just want to ask what I should be dropping the vcore down to? From what I can tell if the heat continues the way it has been vcore was actually at 1.20v or something.

I'm sort of new to overclocking, not done anything serious like this before so any tips would be appreciated.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

TescoBag posted:

Hi guys, anyone have experience with the Z390 Aorus elite?

Just bought myself a 9700k.

I'm trying to overclock to 5ghz, and the OC guide says to set LLC to turbo (hating the fact you have to type everything in rather than there being a drop down.) so I have done that (I see it's been recommended a lot online) and heat suddenly increased significantly while I was doing testing. Was getting a nice 75 degrees C before setting it to turbo, is this because LLC will decrease voltages automatically or something and the 1.27v I had set was way too high?

I've been reducing it, I'm down to 1.23v at the moment and I'm now down to 80 degrees stable. I more just want to ask what I should be dropping the vcore down to? From what I can tell if the heat continues the way it has been vcore was actually at 1.20v or something.

I'm sort of new to overclocking, not done anything serious like this before so any tips would be appreciated.

I have that board with a 9900k so it's a similar process.

You're correct in the assumption that you're putting more heat to your CPU now that you're set to Turbo (I think the default auto is one or two settings less aggressive than turbo, which yes is the correct setting). Are you using Hwinfo64? Use that and look for the VRout voltage value - that's the voltage that is actually going to the CPU. I find on my 9900k that it's a tiny bit less than what I set manually in the BIOS (1.33 in BIOS, 1.31 VRout).

If you've set your clocks all to 5.0ghz and you're stable, the next task is to start incrementally lowering the vcore until you're not stable. What software are you using to test? 80C is a great temp under full testing load and is not at all a concern since you won't come to that temp in normal usage situations (and even then it's not that hot).

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Feb 5, 2019

Red_Fred
Oct 21, 2010


Fallen Rib

TescoBag posted:

Hi guys, anyone have experience with the Z390 Aorus elite?

Just bought myself a 9700k.

I'm trying to overclock to 5ghz, and the OC guide says to set LLC to turbo (hating the fact you have to type everything in rather than there being a drop down.) so I have done that (I see it's been recommended a lot online) and heat suddenly increased significantly while I was doing testing. Was getting a nice 75 degrees C before setting it to turbo, is this because LLC will decrease voltages automatically or something and the 1.27v I had set was way too high?

I've been reducing it, I'm down to 1.23v at the moment and I'm now down to 80 degrees stable. I more just want to ask what I should be dropping the vcore down to? From what I can tell if the heat continues the way it has been vcore was actually at 1.20v or something.

I'm sort of new to overclocking, not done anything serious like this before so any tips would be appreciated.

Which guide are you using? I have the same board and have been meaning to get around to doing an OC.

TescoBag
Dec 2, 2009

Oh god, not again.

Red_Fred posted:

Which guide are you using? I have the same board and have been meaning to get around to doing an OC.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...4zU8yNTAK9yf5Tg

This one!

VelociBacon posted:

I have that board with a 9900k so it's a similar process.

You're correct in the assumption that you're putting more heat to your CPU now that you're set to Turbo (I think the default auto is one or two settings less aggressive than turbo, which yes is the correct setting). Are you using Hwinfo64? Use that and look for the VRout voltage value - that's the voltage that is actually going to the CPU. I find on my 9900k that it's a tiny bit less than what I set manually in the BIOS (1.33 in BIOS, 1.31 VRout).

If you've set your clocks all to 5.0ghz and you're stable, the next task is to start incrementally lowering the vcore until you're not stable. What software are you using to test? 80C is a great temp under full testing load and is not at all a concern since you won't come to that temp in normal usage situations (and even then it's not that hot).

I can't find the VRout voltage level. I've seen online that someone else with the Ultra version of this board doesn't have it - https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/aiat1d/no_vr_vout_reading_under_isl69138_in_hwinfo64_for/ but then someone else in the thread does?

Any ideas on that one? Another sensor that might be close?

Humerus
Jul 7, 2009

Rule of acquisition #111:
Treat people in your debt like family...exploit them.


I'm very new to overclocking but I'm trying to put off an upgrade until Zen2 launches (and maybe beyond?) so I'm overclocking my i5-3570k. I have an Asus P8Z77 mobo and I currently have my CPU at 4.2GHz, running Prime95 with max temp around 80C.

Questions:
Even at idle, all cores of my CPU are at 4.2GHz. Is that normal for overclocking?
I have XMP enabled for my RAM (sticker frequency: 1600MHz) but HWInfo is showing the clock at 800MHz. Have I done something wrong?

craig588
Nov 19, 2005

by Nyc_Tattoo
Make sure your low power states are enabled, guides recommend disabling them for stability testing, but you should never need to keep them disabled. That should get you back your low power idle speeds. The memory is just a reporting thing, most programs report DDR at half speed to report the cycle speed, DDR means it functions on the rising and falling edges of the cycle so for marketing the cycle speed is doubled. There's also up to 5x per cycle transports, I think DDR 3 and 4 actually are 4X, but I don't know.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

TescoBag posted:

I can't find the VRout voltage level. I've seen online that someone else with the Ultra version of this board doesn't have it - https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/aiat1d/no_vr_vout_reading_under_isl69138_in_hwinfo64_for/ but then someone else in the thread does?

Any ideas on that one? Another sensor that might be close?

Sorry it's actually VR Vout. Here's a screencap:



This is with HWinfo64 v5.92-3580. Make sure you update your motherboard BIOS also.

TescoBag
Dec 2, 2009

Oh god, not again.

VelociBacon posted:

Sorry it's actually VR Vout. Here's a screencap:



This is with HWinfo64 v5.92-3580. Make sure you update your motherboard BIOS also.



Yeahhh I don't have that there for some reason. Using the newest bios update as well.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

TescoBag posted:



Yeahhh I don't have that there for some reason. Using the newest bios update as well.

Same version of hwinfo64?

TescoBag
Dec 2, 2009

Oh god, not again.

VelociBacon posted:

Same version of hwinfo64?

Ah, sorry. I just downgraded to that specific version.



That doesn't seem right...

Chinook
Apr 11, 2006

SHODAI


Nice.

I wish there was a guide that was nice and straightforward like that for my motherboard. (AsRock z390 Extreme4). I have an i7-9700k, and I've avoided messing around too much, but it'd be nice to overclock it a bit.

SeaGoatSupreme
Dec 26, 2009
Ask me about fixed-gear bikes (aka "fixies")

Humerus posted:

I'm very new to overclocking but I'm trying to put off an upgrade until Zen2 launches (and maybe beyond?) so I'm overclocking my i5-3570k. I have an Asus P8Z77 mobo and I currently have my CPU at 4.2GHz, running Prime95 with max temp around 80C.

Questions:
Even at idle, all cores of my CPU are at 4.2GHz. Is that normal for overclocking?
I have XMP enabled for my RAM (sticker frequency: 1600MHz) but HWInfo is showing the clock at 800MHz. Have I done something wrong?

Doesn't seem like you've done anything wrong, what's your voltage look like under load? You might be able to lower it and get the chip a little cooler/more power efficient. I can run my 3570k at stock voltage for 4.2GHz, it's around 1.12v I believe.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast

Humerus posted:

I'm very new to overclocking but I'm trying to put off an upgrade until Zen2 launches (and maybe beyond?) so I'm overclocking my i5-3570k. I have an Asus P8Z77 mobo and I currently have my CPU at 4.2GHz, running Prime95 with max temp around 80C.

Questions:
Even at idle, all cores of my CPU are at 4.2GHz. Is that normal for overclocking?
I have XMP enabled for my RAM (sticker frequency: 1600MHz) but HWInfo is showing the clock at 800MHz. Have I done something wrong?

It should idle just as before, not locked at 4.2. If the only thing you changed was the turbo ratio (as you should have done), then it shouldn't affect speedstep..
800MHz is just another way of saying 1600MHz in this case, DDR.. (Double Data Rate) transmits data both on the rise and fall of each clock cycle, so it's effectively twice the speed of the actual frequency it runs at. 1600MHz is 800MHz in marketing speak, in other words.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

VelociBacon posted:

Sorry it's actually VR Vout. Here's a screencap:



This is with HWinfo64 v5.92-3580. Make sure you update your motherboard BIOS also.

I have two listings for VRout on my Z390 Pro WiFi board that both give different values and I'm trying to figure out which is more accurate. Which sensor heading is that using in your screenshot?

Also does anyone know what a (rough) lowest idle before limit is for a 9700k? I've got mine undervolted to .6v at idle which has tested stable, but I'm kinda afraid to try for anything lower.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

future ghost posted:

I have two listings for VRout on my Z390 Pro WiFi board that both give different values and I'm trying to figure out which is more accurate. Which sensor heading is that using in your screenshot?

Also does anyone know what a (rough) lowest idle before limit is for a 9700k? I've got mine undervolted to .6v at idle which has tested stable, but I'm kinda afraid to try for anything lower.

I'm at work tonight but I'll go check that out when I get home in 12 hours. There's a chance if you have two that mine is the 'wrong one' so maybe the other one is correct I don't know. I've noticed it's a tiny bit lower than my other vCore measurements (like 0.01v).

GRINDCORE MEGGIDO
Feb 28, 1985


You can't hurt it by undervolting.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

future ghost posted:

I have two listings for VRout on my Z390 Pro WiFi board that both give different values and I'm trying to figure out which is more accurate. Which sensor heading is that using in your screenshot?

Also does anyone know what a (rough) lowest idle before limit is for a 9700k? I've got mine undervolted to .6v at idle which has tested stable, but I'm kinda afraid to try for anything lower.

Here's a screencap



I just toggled a stress test on and off so you can see the max values (far right column). The temps can be ignored btw I didn't let it really spin up.

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Feb 8, 2019

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Humerus
Jul 7, 2009

Rule of acquisition #111:
Treat people in your debt like family...exploit them.


HalloKitty posted:

It should idle just as before, not locked at 4.2. If the only thing you changed was the turbo ratio (as you should have done), then it shouldn't affect speedstep..
800MHz is just another way of saying 1600MHz in this case, DDR.. (Double Data Rate) transmits data both on the rise and fall of each clock cycle, so it's effectively twice the speed of the actual frequency it runs at. 1600MHz is 800MHz in marketing speak, in other words.

So it's been a few days of me fiddling with settings in BIOS and my CPU is just constantly running at max...until I found a post about Windows power modes and the High Performance setting makes your CPU run at 100% all the time. Turned that off and now it idles correctly.

Thanks for all the hand holding guys, overclocking was so much easier than I thought.

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