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Sir Bobert Fishbone posted:Is it normal to have a fairly consistent 10 degree difference between cores at idle on IB? Or did I gently caress up my thermal paste application? Don't know. Physical layouts of the two chips are pretty similar though:   and both of them sandwich two of the cores, and poor Core 3 is right at the center of the entire package. Still, I only have about a 3°C difference at idle. But I doubt it's down to thermal paste unless your idle temperature as a whole is abnormal.
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May 12, 2012 19:03
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Jewce posted:I know that a few items on there are not the greatest. For example, I got the 212 plus instead of Evo because my company was buying this computer and they made some decisions I wouldn't have, but I couldn't argue. Same with case, memory, and power supply. Hopefully none of those things are major issues. The power supply might be. Challenge it if you can; replace it out of your own pocket if you have to.
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Jul 31, 2012 01:42
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Should I be getting the same temperatures with the current Linpack at 4096MB stress level as I do with Prime95 Small FFT? (Both 72~73c on 2500K@4.2 GHz)
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Aug 3, 2012 21:10
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Apparently it's not quite so bad, but I'm not sure it should be hovering around 70 either. (linked)(I was probably a fool not to screencap it from idle, but my idle hovers around 37~39. Airflow in here sucks.)
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Aug 3, 2012 22:02
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Agreed posted:Hold up, should be idling closer to 33ºC regardless of load. Wait, are you using the stock cooler or an aftermarket heat sink? Xigmatek Gaia. If I get the air conditioning going and close the door I can get down to 35~36 idle. 33 is probably out of reach during summer, though.
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Aug 3, 2012 22:27
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Agreed posted:Let me rewind that last statement as well, ah, how exactly are you doing the overclocking? It could be idling normal if you're going with a constant voltage. If, however you're using the offset method it should be undervolting to .9V and downclocking to 1600mhz and idling cooler than that. I set it to 42 and stuck with default voltages and apparently it only undervolts so low as 1.000.
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Aug 3, 2012 22:40
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Agreed posted:So, one-button overclock, and it is doing its power saving, that's good - but your temps aren't. If it's not underclocking to 16x (1600mhz) when idling, nearly 40ºC is a high idle, especially for the type of cooler that you're using, and could indicate some issue with its mounting (or, as you note, maybe just really bad airflow - that's the thing with the Xigmatek iirc, it isn't really optimized well as far as fin placement goes so a lack of airflow could mean that it needs a higher temperature delta in order to increase the efficiency of heat removal). Not a one-button overclock, and yeah it's underclocking at idle. I must have thought that goes without saying; sorry. It could be air issues (Silverstone PS07), though, or cooler issues. Or hell, ambient issues; guess that's the price of working in a room that's literally only cool when A/C is running regardless of the time of year, in a house built in a California desert. (There's no room to relocate my workspace anywhere else in here either.) I'm pretty sure I got the thermal paste application right; I just did it how the instructions said to (not that I could prove it without having to do it all over again). I'm just wondering how much headroom I have to boost the multiplier at this point. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Aug 3, 2012 |
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Aug 3, 2012 22:59
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Agreed posted:Load values? Asus P8Z77-M Pro Idle: 1608MHz 37C 0.968V Load*: 4222MHz** 74C 1.272V (although it spiked as high as 1.304 apparently, but that was before I even hit start) *Where load is the fifth pass of IntelBurnTest 2.54 x64 4096MB. **I left the bus clock at default too, but I guess the board thinks bus default is 100.5, not 100.0. v  v
dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Aug 4, 2012 |
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Aug 4, 2012 01:16
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A: Yes, but that leaves out as much as you did. We need more information on what's going on (panic codes and IntelBurnTest/Prime95 results at the very least, assuming they don't send your core temperature sky-high; behavior and logs would be super helpful) to provide a meaningful answer.
dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Nov 19, 2012 |
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Nov 19, 2012 00:58
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Tres Burritos posted:Yeah it just happened a couple times this week after overclocking. Just decided to look into it now. 0x124 is WHEA. Assuming it doesn't show up at stock that's definitely an overclock-induced problem. If it DOES show up at stock some other piece of hardware is in deep trouble (although it could still be your processor).
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Nov 19, 2012 01:16
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SocketSeven posted:Well, I tried adjusting it to 1333 and 1.5v and it became completely unstable. I don't think the motherboard could figure out any of the proper dram timings. I'd get RAM that doesn't suck. 8GB costs $40 bucks, at most. Your processor cost over $200. Which would you rather lose?
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Jan 11, 2013 22:03
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Heatsink, probably. (It sure as hell would have without it. *May not be legit, but either way it's amusing.) But yes, overclocks like that are called suicide runs for a reason. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Mar 1, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 18:20
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Daysvala posted:I'm pretty clueless about the different types of heatsinks; my cooler has a copper faceplate which makes contact with the surface of the CPU, and has ~4 pipes which run out of that copper faceplate and into the radiator unit. Does this fall under the category of direct-touch? There are direct touch plates that actually are flat. This is called witchcraft. Use your brain and look at the drat plate. If it's got big crevices, the kind that happen when two different pieces come together, spread it yourself (or apply razor-thin lines to the pipes themselves). If not, if it's a solid thing, let it do the spreading.
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Apr 30, 2013 22:50
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You need a Z77 board to overclock that CPU at all.
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Jun 21, 2013 10:10
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If it benched okay (i.e. 24hr Prime95) and it remains stable then the only thing you have to worry about are goons breaking in and stealing your rig. Also we want to know how you applied the thermal goop - unless it would require you to remove your heatsink, because you should probably never remove your heatsink again with that kind of luck - and what other parts you used (exotic fans, cases, blood pact with Satan) because holy poo poo that shouldn't be possible.
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Jul 27, 2013 11:50
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You might actually want to step it down. I'm guessing you don't need 4800 for anything - the savings from shorter duty cycles doesn't make up for the blistering die temp - so be happy that you managed it and that you have it for when (if) you do need it.
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Sep 7, 2013 10:23
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Elderbean posted:I put this together awhile ago, before I came to SA. I honestly had no idea what I was doing I just went with parts that were recommended to me. I'm trying to make a commitment to learn more about hardware now. Read the OP of, and post your hopefully revised build in, the building and picking megathread. You still don't have much idea what you're doing. That processor and its motherboard are out of date: 4570 and B85/H87 (depends on what's cheaper without skimping on stuff like front USB 3.0 connectors) if you're not overclocking (and honestly you probably don't need to these days); 4670K and Z87 if you are (and yes, the K and Z matter). Either way there's not much reason to use full ATX boards anymore. That video card is out of date and wasn't fps/$ competitive when it was new. And without knowing what monitor (or at least logical screen area) you intend to use/get, they can't tell you what video card is appropriate for you. That case is very large and very expensive for what it gives you. Power supply's solid but probably fifty bucks beyond what you need. That OP has a good selection and you're probably looking around 550W, but wait until they figure out what card you should get before you pull the trigger. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Sep 7, 2013 |
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Sep 7, 2013 14:56
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If there are, you're doing yourself a disservice by consulting them. They can only tell you what that model of CPU can do, not what your CPU can do, and juggling CPUs is time-consuming, exhausting, and is likely to become a money pit, even before you admit it's for chasing the OC dragon. Now if you're just looking for what the bone-simple overclock is then sure, but you're already clocked past that point.
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Oct 21, 2013 15:15
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that overclock.net thread posted:**This thread is not for discussing safe Temps / Voltages for Ivy Bridge** Well there you go.
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Oct 21, 2013 21:26
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Is there a GPGPU stress test (basically an analog to Linpack/IBT or Prime95*) that can be used to do GPU overclocks without relying so much on judgment calls and not being able to trust GPGPU numbers returned even the little bit those CPU stress testing tools I mentioned give you? *Not that Prime95 is comprehensive thermal-wise these days, but I was led to believe it's still a decent reliability measurement.
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Mar 20, 2014 20:28
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The Haswell Refresh K-CPUs are supposed to be soldered on again, aren't they? Wouldn't delidding those shred the die?
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Apr 12, 2014 08:01
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Intel is preferable, but Realtek is fine for most uses. Qualcomm/KillerNIC/etc, on the other hand, is a dealbreaker.
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May 15, 2014 03:36
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Nemesis Of Moles posted:So on December 1st I fixed my first overclock on a G3258. I only fiddled with 2 settings but that seemed to be a good solid OC. I had my clock set to 40, for a 4.0GHZ OC total, with my core volt at 1.17 and my Ring volt at 1.16. This sat stable, besides one blue screen, up until today when I had 3 BSOD in a row. Short answer: Electromigration. Long answer: Go wiki electromigration. Abridged answer: Every processor will eventually erode to uselessness because integrated circuits are small enough that the continual energization and de-energization of their electrically useful components can knock atoms out of their proper places, and when circuits are relatively few atoms wide (read: dozens to hundreds), it doesn't take much of this misalignment to damage the pathway. Keep in mind that a processor depends on more or less every single pathway being to spec, and that there's several billion of them in a modern processor. The denser the processor, the smaller the manufacturing process, the tighter the tolerance, the lower the electromigration endurance, and the shorter its useful life. This is why it's so hard to push processors to smaller processes these days, because we're running into fundamental physical limits imposed by the size of the atoms in the processor's material components. A Super Nintendo may last until the stars go out. Your G3258 may only last a decade or two even if you never overclocked it, and a 4790K would be closer to the one decade under the same circumstances.
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Mar 4, 2015 00:37
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Sh4 posted:I have no idea what's going on, this is with the Vcore set as 1.2V manual, HWinfo stills shows me a VID of over 1.3V, what is happening ? PNG now comes in 24/32 bits. Also Vcore is what you care about. VID is Intel's specification for nominal voltage-in. That is: this is the voltage before droop at which Intel considers the processor Intel-stable for the given combination of core clock rates and other circumstances.
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Mar 25, 2015 12:51
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Sh4 posted:Is it before Voffset too ? In-environment overclocking tools are almost uniformly a bad idea. Intel has some official ones (which don't necessarily work on your motherboard if its manufacturer would rather you use their tools and/or are just dicks) and even those should probably be reserved for zeroing in on an overclock before affixing it in firmware.
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Mar 25, 2015 19:08
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Edmond Dantes posted:So I guess my questions are: are those temps ok? Is using the OC Tuner "safe", or am I better off doing things manually? No get a Cryorig H7 already. The stock cooler is shipped with K processors because hey at least you have a cooler, but it isn't really meant to be used with the extra load of bumping your CPU by 30%. Yes OC Tuner is safe-ish, but you should probably stick the numbers yourself out of principle. (Example: Make sure the base clock is manually set to 100.0; some boards will let it drift by a percent or more if you don't, and some parts of the hardware (USB/SATA) can be sensitive to that). There's an actual dial-in procedure that can take you close to 50x if literally everything goes right, but at this stage if the board's telling you 43 you probably want either that or maybe even step down to 41/42. By the time the CPU's approaching categorically obsolete you're going to need more than what 50x can provide. Realistically the board itself and the CPU's auxiliary feature set will render it obsolete before its performance as a processor or electromigration (at least, electron drift at rates typical of clocks at or below 45x at 100% duty cycle) will. Fun fact: Even the non-OC 2500 could be pushed to 41 by an OC board, at least for single-core-load turbo. If your board's firmware has a standard pre-boot path and an OC pre-boot path, 41 is low enough to stay on the former. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Apr 20, 2015 |
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Apr 20, 2015 23:22
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Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:Tried a thin piece of plastic like a credit card (if it's hard), or 99%-100% isopropyl alcohol? 90/91% will do in a pinch (you can't get 99 some places, and I remember Bude having to get 91 from an actual pharmacist with actual 'do not ingest' labels because Australia is even more afraid of showing up in the OSHA thread than California is). 70% is ... not a joke, it can get the job done eventually, but that's like three times as much cleaning as 91. Benzene is terrifying.
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Jun 4, 2015 05:42
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