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I'm quite happy with this overclock, but I'm a bit worried about the temps. Is it dangerous to run it like this? 
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May 9, 2012 08:02
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This one looks stable. Would have preferred at least 4.6, but  .  Edit: Is there a reason you shouldn't up the bclk? I thought it was "Up the multiplier at your desired max voltage until you can't go any higher, then use the bclk to get every last Hz out of it." KillHour fucked around with this message at 15:00 on May 9, 2012 |
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May 9, 2012 12:46
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:My CPU fan is running at full speed because I haven't figured out Asrock's bizarre fan scaling yet. Luckily it's a 140mm Noctua that spins at 1200 RPM so it's not terribly loud anyway. Hey, Noctua buddy.  Try a 0.100 volt offset. That landed me at 1.3V VCore, and I can go over 4.5 GHz without hitting 70C temps.
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May 11, 2012 17:36
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If you want a "black monolith", you want the Define XL. http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=68 It's just so... big.  Also, I have one, and it keeps my OC'd 3570k at under 65C @ 4.53GHz. Also, you literally can't hear when it's on. Did I mention it's big? Because it makes my Noctua NH-D14 look small. Edit: If you do get that case, make sure your PSU has long enough cables. My Seasonic X750 Gold's CPU 8 pin wasn't long enough to route behind the motherboard tray. I actually had to run it UNDER my video card. KillHour fucked around with this message at 17:55 on May 15, 2012 |
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May 15, 2012 17:52
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Agreed posted:Man, an extender for that ought to be packaged with PSUs. I always have to do some goofy poo poo like run it alongside the rear fan and tighten it to the fan with a zip-tie or something like that. And in this case, as a fellow NH-D14 ( The cut on my hand still hasn't healed. 
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May 15, 2012 19:44
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) owner who did not plug in the 8-pin 'til the mobo and PSU were installed, let me tell you, plugging that barely-long-enough fucker in... was an unpleasant experience.
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Dogen posted:See with the Archon your hand has plenty of room to grab the plug, and with the 650D and a seasonic based PSU there is plenty of room for the 8-pin to be pulled behind the motherboard tray Noctua: Airflow 110.3 / 92.3 m³/h Airflow with U.L.N.A. 83,7 / 63,4 m³/h Acoustical Noise 19,6 / 19,8 dB(A) Acoustical Noise with U.L.N.A. 13,2 / 12,6 dB(A) Archon: Fan noise: 19~21dBA Airflow: 95.14~124 m³/h 
KillHour fucked around with this message at 21:00 on May 15, 2012 |
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May 15, 2012 20:37
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For the love of God, don't do that. The stock Intel cooler is designed to be just enough to get 99.99% of chips past the warranty without dying on stock speeds. The temp you're at is on par with suicide e-peen run; you'll be lucky if it lasts you the year.
KillHour fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Jun 17, 2012 |
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Jun 17, 2012 04:37
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I'm just waiting for someone crazy enough to try soldering the heat spreader on to see if it's possible.
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Jun 17, 2012 05:02
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Josh Lyman posted:I removed the TIM on my stock Intel HSF and used Arctic Silver 5. when you say you "removed the TIM", people assume you mean this:  Edit: while we're on the subject, I've been considering deliding my proc and replacing the thermal paste with the Noctua NT-H1 that came with my heat sink. It *says* non conductive on the package, but I wanted to know if anyone has tried using it before. Also, what's the best way to apply it? Should I put a dot on? A line? spread it out evenly with a credit card? Should I use hi temp silicone (This stuff: http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_High-Temp_Red_RTV_Silicone_Gasket.htm ) to reattach the top, or leave it loose? KillHour fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Jun 18, 2012 |
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Jun 18, 2012 02:55
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Actually, since the chip isn't soldered to the spreader, what's stopping someone from soldering the spreader directly to the heatsink? Obviously, this would make the heatsink useless for anything else, but it might shave off a few degrees if you really want to go [H] with it.
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Jun 18, 2012 03:30
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Agreed posted:Thinking through, how would you even do this in a way that would improve rather than damage cooling ability (let alone the processor)? You'd have to solder it only to the part of the heatspreader that contacts the core or else I'd bet there would be no benefit at all, and then you've added several uneven millimeters to the heat sink and IHS setup which is going to bite hard when you go to tighten it down. If you apply paste as normal then just solder the outside, not sure you'd have any reason to expect benefits, but I am sure it'd be a good way to ruin a perfectly good processor and heat sink all at the same time. You'd have to do it with the processor already installed to the motherboard, too, unless part of the plan is to remove the IHS-heatsink soldered together setup to install the naked processor (possibly replacing the potentially mediocre application of goopy TIM with a more carefully applied layer of quality TIM), but then you run into the problem of crushing the processor when you go to tighten the heatsink... You'd have to remove the heat spreader from the processor (replacing the paste in the process) and then sand a little off the bottom of the heatsink to make up for the difference in solder depth. You'd then probably want to reflow solder the heatsink and heat spreader together to make sure it's level. I didn't say it would be easy, but it's got to be easier than actually soldering the core to the heat spreader.
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Jun 18, 2012 15:29
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The first core always runs cooler, since it's next to a huge piece of the die that's seeing no utilization (the integrated graphics), and that acts as a big heatsink.
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Jul 9, 2012 17:37
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To be fair, 70% of time under full load on a gaming PC means you're gaming almost 17 hours a day. Also, 2.5 years is longer than their target demographic is likely to keep that computer, anyways. That said, I'd want some heavy duty cooling if you're going to overclock it THAT MUCH.
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Jul 28, 2012 00:53
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I wouldn't worry about it. The R4 has decent airflow. I have its big brother (the Define XL), and my parts stay nice and chilly, even with just the stock case fans.
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Jul 28, 2012 08:00
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I'd have sex with my NH-D14, but that would compromise its cooling ability.
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Nov 6, 2012 18:54
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Pffft, amateurs. http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/delta-v-15-69mm-electric-ducted-fan-EFLDF15 Pulled 26A at 12V in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBqGGFWrGaQ KillHour fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Nov 7, 2012 |
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Nov 7, 2012 18:58
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I'm not sure why you didn't anyways. IB is not really an upgrade at all over SB if you were overclocking, due to the worse thermal performance of IB.
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Mar 30, 2013 05:38
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What did you have before?
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Mar 31, 2013 07:01
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I always wondered why people don't just mount the radiator outside of the case. The whole point of water cooling is to move the heat somewhere else. That somewhere else should probably not be 4 inches from where all the heat is.
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Jan 6, 2019 17:57
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There could literally be a false case top a few inches above the real case top that you mount the radiator to. Air would come in from above and leave out the sides without ever going inside the case and keep roughly the same form factor. You would just need appropriate wire and tube grommets.
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Jan 6, 2019 18:18
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Gooncave and gardens
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Jan 6, 2019 19:59
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tehinternet posted:This owns. It is. 
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Dec 5, 2019 14:50
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ufarn posted:Do you peg the rear CHA fan to the CPU fans, or do you just run them at independent speeds? I found there is so much airflow it literally doesn't matter.
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Dec 5, 2019 19:35
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VostokProgram posted:You could try to visualize the flow with a stick of incense or something else that generates visible smoke, that would tell you for sure Or I could, if I had a window in my case. In lieu of actual evidence, more fans = better than. 
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Jan 15, 2020 09:14
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