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I have an i5-760//Asus - P7P55D-E Deluxe, and because I don't want to splurge on an Intel chipset and socket that may not be futureproof, I want to see what I can do with overclocking. Another alternative is getting a Xeon CPU, but I haven't seen benchmarks that makes it stand too much apart from my current one. And if I have to go through the same overclocking hoops, I might as well give it a shot with this one. Not that I'd mind paying $79 to boost performance significantly if that's an option. I've read these two guides as well as the OP so far: * http://www.masterslair.com/vcore-vtt-dram-pll-pch-voltages-explained-core-i7-i5-i3/#cpu-phase-locked-loop-pll * http://www.techreaction.net/2010/09/07/3-step-overclocking-guide-bloomfield-and-gulftown/ One of the things that trip me up is seeing the OP saying to not, for the love of god, tamper with PLL, while the first link above encourages me to use it - albeit to just get some slight extra mileage out of the CPU. Another is that Vcore and VTT seem to be conflated. From what I understand, with my Lynnfield, BCLK*Multiplier = CPU speed, and I can only change the BCLK in this case. When an OC doesn't work, I should step up the Vcore, but do I increase VTT by the same amount? On top of that, what really complicates the picture for me is that I have to tamper with stuff like PLL Turbo Boost, CPU ratio, memory speed, QPI frequency, CPU Spread Spectrum, and set VTT to a default value. On top of that there's managing memory when I step up the BCLK. I'm not really interested in improving the memory, just my ancient CPU. If it were just a matter of increasing a multiplier and boosting Vcore with 0.025V every time I ran into an issue up to 1.35V, I wouldn't have any issue, but the discrepencies and conflated language makes it all a little confusing to say the least. Basically, the steps seem to boil down to: 1. Disable or lower a bunch of BIOS settings 2. Set some defaults for now 3. Step and increase voltage until I reach the goal 4. Re-enable or raise some of the settings from #1 The second link is not hard on the theory; it's more of a cookbook I can just follow depending on how aggressive I'm feeling, but I'm basically just mindlessly following orders with that. I don't necessarily mind that, as long as there's no risk attached. ufarn fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Jun 17, 2017 |
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Jun 17, 2017 17:57
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I think I might get down to overclocking somewhere in the weekend, because I think I've got it sorted out just about. First, I find my max BCLK by 1a. turning down frequencies of RAM and QPI (to keep BCLK from messing with things) 1b. lower my CPU multiplier 1c. start overclocking BCLK and adding voltage to the Vcore (to maximum of 1.35V) until I hit a wall Then I find my ideal BCLK by 2a. disabling Load Line Calibration 2b. resetting BCLK to the original default 133 (or 150). 2c. reset CPU multiplier to original pre-OC 2d. keep Vcore at the level from before 2e. start overclocking BCLK and adding voltage to Vcore/IMC (to maximum of 1.35V) until I hit a wall After finishing 3a. reset frequencies of RAM and QPI to original (as close as possible) Here's the one thing I'm not sure about. Some guides say I'll "just know" when my memory voltage becomes a problem, but I don't see where outside of keeping it within 0.5V of the VTT/IMC I figure this out, so how does the gradual fine-tuning of the memory voltage work, and when does it take place in this? From the get-go, I'll set all voltages except PLL and PCH to Manual, ie CPU, VTT/IMC, and DRAM. PLL and PCH will remain at Auto. If that's not possible, they'll all obviously just be set to Manual with no changes to PLL and PCH. ufarn fucked around with this message at 13:16 on Jun 22, 2017 |
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Jun 22, 2017 13:12
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Eletriarnation posted:This all sounds good to me. I am not sure if you'll be able to get enough real benefit from overvolting your RAM to be worth the risk of going very high. How much RAM do you have, and of what speed? I don't want to tamper with the RAM at all, just keeping it the req 0.5V from VTT. The CPU is by far the bottleneck. Assuming that's how it works; I assume picking the original frequency in BIOS will keep around factory settings, different BCLK aside. I assume the frequency setting in BIOS is a product of BCLK and a hidden multiplier.
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Jun 23, 2017 14:16
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Eletriarnation posted:Whoops, didn't realize that's what it was - my mistake. Yeah, 2x8GB DDR3-1600 is not a bad place to be even if you leave it at stock - a lot of systems from that generation would use 1333. My DRAM frequency is changed directly in BIOS (same with QPI) AFAICT:  I don't know how exactly these figures are produced, and I wonder if they change when I mess with BCLK. But looking at that, it doesn't include 1600, so I'm actually not sure what is implied with "Auto". Looks like it's specifically for downclocking the RAM, but no idea if "Auto" will stick with the same frequency or the original multiplier and mess things up when I increase BCLK. e: Looks like another DRAM setting may open up once you enable overclock mode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFw_BPvaa5o. e: But the point being that the DRAM and QPI settings have an Auto option and some other frequencies that seem to be lower than the default clock (ie no 1600 option for DRAM), so I wonder what choosing "Auto" after I'm done overclocking would "revert" them back to. At least this looks like the only thing I have to figure out before proceeding. e: Looks like I can use the advanced settings to at least double-check on my RAM speed when I have to reset things by the end. I assume the AI Tweaker is just a simplified interface for this stuff. Now I just have to make sure I'll do right by QPI. ufarn fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Jun 24, 2017 |
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Jun 23, 2017 19:23
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Any reason why I shouldn't go with RealTemp instead of Core Temp? Core Temp has a bad habit of freezing temporary during stress tests. Is there also a good way to gauge whether you did a decent job of applying the paste? I'm getting the 38--41C with fans on lowest speed, and I think I'm getting the same idle temps as pre-re-application, for better or worse. ufarn fucked around with this message at 10:52 on Jun 29, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 18:08
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I’m currently overclocking, and everything’s been going smoothly - a little too smoothly. My OC to 200 BCLK finally failed, and I went into BIOS to up the voltage. I go into my BIOS, and it’s reset my CPU voltage setting to Auto, and the current CPU voltage is currently at 1.36V, which is above my max, but not life-threatening. What’s weirder, though, is that even as I set it to Offset and +0, it changes the offset voltage to 0.00625 (basically 0), but shows the current CPU voltage as 1.36V still. Has my BIOS become self-aware, and what do I do about it? I was able to hit a max BCLK of 220@1.225V, and my CPU temps are currently 68C with all fan speeds set to low-ish, so it’s not like there’s not more headroom, so what’s going on with the CPU voltage? I assume the Current Voltage figure updates dynamically, so why won’t it go down? It doesn’t change as I change the voltage offset, though. e: Tried setting it to a manual offset and lowered it to 190 BCLK, and now it’s stuck at loading “ASUS EXPRESS GATE”; so guess I got to reset the CMOS. e: What I did beforehand: Lower DRAM and QPI. Find max BCLK with CPU multiplier at 12. Raise CPU multiplier to Auto, set it to Offset +0. Benchmark. At the point of reaching 200, I hadn’t had to raise my voltage. e: Things went kind of south, but nothing a CMOS reset and System Restore couldn’t fix. Still have no idea what the hell went wrong. Guess I can try again, but seems like something for vcore automatically reset or configured itself in BIOS. e: Got everything back to normal, and BIOS definitely resets my Offset settings. It doesn’t reset as soon as I restart, so it probably reacts to an increased load from my stress tests in Windows 10. e: I’ve more or less got it under control, but something’s just wonky about the interface. Think I’ve ended up with 180 BCLK vs 133. Assuming the offset, +0.075V, is added to the “Current CPU voltage”, I should be right below 1.35V, although I’m well below the potential maximum of 220 BCLK I managed. Only hit 62C with minimal cooling. e: It's now stable at 170, but I'm not sure how to turn back up DRAM and QPI. Here are the current BIOS settings and their original frequency pre-OC: https://imgur.com/a/C2AsS     I still don't QPI, but either way, it seems like I'd be better off finding out what it's supposed to be and if there's somewhere I can tweak a multiplier to bring it and DRAM closer to whatever the QPI was before. Pre-OC, the DRAM options were Auto, 800, 1066, 1333, and QPI Auto, 4270, 4800. ufarn fucked around with this message at 12:55 on Jul 15, 2017 |
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Jul 14, 2017 14:05
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Alright, cheers. I've stress tested the crap out of the setup, and there's just a very steep increase in required voltage at this point. I had a bunch of times where I thought I was good at 180/190, but on the fourth or eighth hour of Prime95, it finally gave out.
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Jul 16, 2017 15:10
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How viable are BIOS fan curves nowadays? All guides I used to read recommended regular software, but where are modern motherboards and major brands at today? Can I avoid messing with something like SpeedFan and just set something up for my fans in BIOS instead?
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Dec 22, 2017 16:35
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I'd definitely prefer doing it in BIOS if I can, assuming there aren't like sixty billion pitfalls I need to be on the lookout for.
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Dec 22, 2017 19:00
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Is 1.35V still the "comfortable" OC limit for Ryzen CPUs like with Intel?
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Jan 28, 2018 14:41
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What's the IntelBurnTest equivalent for Ryzen stress-testing?
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Mar 9, 2018 18:42
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What's the deal with AF140 (Quiet Edition)? Some seem to swear by it while others report a really weird noise profile at various RPMs. Do Corsair have a really weird QA issues, or what's going on? I thought going by recommendations was hard, but even more so with fans.
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Apr 2, 2018 22:06
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mewse posted:The new hotness is ML140 and they're desperately trying to pretend they didn't push the airflow/static pressure dichotomy for case fans
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Apr 3, 2018 13:08
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What do you recommend for finding the (loudest) source of noise in your case? It sounds like it's coming from either my NH-D14 with resistor cables (which is surprising) or my ASUS 270X. Some guides suggest using a plastic pen to stop the fans, but even if I wanted to try that, we're talking multiple fans for each anyway. This is at idle. It's not "noisy"; it's just audible. The case fans are just the beQuiet! Dark Base 900's 2x SilentWing 3 on the manual minimum on the front and 1x on the back. ufarn fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Apr 14, 2018 |
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Apr 14, 2018 16:23
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Makes sense. The automatic RPM scaling seems quite good at the very least. Is there a go-to for custom fans on graphics cards when I go get my 1180 one day? I'm probably going with Palit's since their AIBs have great defaults. I only ever thought of watercooling for customized GPU cooling, but third-party fan cooling might be worth checking out later.
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Apr 14, 2018 16:36
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Anyone wanna recommend something else than Silent Wings 3 for silent airflow (air-only) cooling before I pull the trigger? Also, is there anything I should know about Zen(+) and XMP-tuning my RAM? I assume turning on XMP in BIOS after setting things up is the default way to do it. ufarn fucked around with this message at 16:15 on May 8, 2018 |
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May 8, 2018 16:09
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Is there a BIOS profile different than the default I should set on my new Crosshair X470 for my 2700X? I just manually set RAM frequency to their 3200 instead of "Auto". I prefer a silent PC, but I obviously don't want to leave free performance gains on the table either.
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Jun 27, 2018 11:46
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I connected my chassis fans to my motherboard headers, but the fan speed seems fairly low even though it's pretty hot. The fans are - supposed to be - controlled through my ASUS BIOS on the latest Crosshair for Ryzen. I tried using SpeedFan to see whether the speeds change, but it apparently can't detect the fans, so what do I use to test? Also, does anyone have experience mounting their own fan filters, because this one doesn't have a filter for the top front fan, and I the custom fan filter shop is US-based which doesn't fly when I'm based in Europe.
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Aug 9, 2018 15:02
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How dead is dead? Did you try clearing CMOS on it?
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Aug 13, 2018 12:55
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NH-D15 (Quiet/Silent version) remains the gold standard, but the current lack of non-fugly colours lead some to buy a Chromax instead. Noctua wil be releasing a black version of the D15 some time next year when they figure out how non-brown colours work. If you're on Ryzen, the stock Wraith cooler is pretty awesome apparently. ufarn fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Oct 9, 2018 |
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Oct 9, 2018 23:52
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I used the DOCP (XMP) profile in BIOS for my Ryzen, which seems to set my RAM at their default 3200, but should I try increasing the speed of them just to see if they can pull it?
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Mar 8, 2019 23:31
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Crotch Fruit posted:I asked about this in the parts picking thread, long story short I want to run an AMD FX-9370 220W old rear end slow CPU because The D14 is 3-pin which makes cooling a bigger pain than the D15. A D15 is going to last forever, might as well pick that one. I don't even know if you can get a D14 today. Just make sure it's mountable to your motherboard.
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Mar 19, 2019 16:57
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. What are some good options for air coolers that can handle this processor? I'm looking at like a Noctua D-14/15 (I assume the 14 is just a little older and cheaper but almost as good?), Deepcool Assassin or Lucifer, or a Thermalright Macho Rev.B (I just don't know if I can take a "macho" cooler seriously). Are there any other air coolers I might have overlooked?
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Yeah that probably works. The spec pages are very straightforward to go through: D14, D15.
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Mar 19, 2019 17:21
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eames posted:FWIW Noctua released a new NH-U12A cooler with 7 heatpipes, 37% more surface area and new fans. It is quite expensive. Going by their previous statements it performs within margin of error of a NH-D15S but we'll have to wait for reviews.
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Mar 19, 2019 17:45
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eames posted:Their youtube account also hinted at a D16 release/announcement at Computex 2019 (yes I read youtube comments so you don't have to
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Mar 19, 2019 18:05
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Tried using the DRAM Calculator for Ryzen to improve my RAM with no luck in booting. If I want to bump up the frequency of my memory, do I just keep my default DOCP profile and increase the frequency from the default 3200 (CL14) and check if it'll boot up? Haven't exactly had any luck OCing with my setup so far.
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Jun 19, 2019 14:09
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I think I used HWinfo64 reads or something like that because Typhoon apparently has some nasty SMB(?) issues, and with my Trident RGB RAM, I don't want to risk messing things up. I think I'll just leave it as-is with the default DOCP settings. I just thought it'd be a little easier. Couldn't even get the level 3 CPU OC profile, nor the "stable" memory profile preset, to be stable, so I'm hitching my wagon to PBO doing work.
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Jun 20, 2019 17:23
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B-Mac posted:Seems like the latest AGESA version AMD sent to vendors is fairly flaky at the moment, a fair number of folks are having RAM issues right now. Probably will need to wait for a bios fix.
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Jul 27, 2019 17:04
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Do you peg the rear CHA fan to the CPU fans, or do you just run them at independent speeds?
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Dec 5, 2019 16:34
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Can someone explain why DRAM Calculator seems to barely require anything for jumping from 3200 MHz to 3600 on my G.Skill RAM? For some reason, it seems to require less than the 3333 overclock. Only thing that goes up significantly is SOC voltage from 1.0125 to 0.05V. Is there any reason not to try this (aside from it appearing to be too good to be true?   The current 3200 SAFE profile works just fine, even though I don't think I specified the manual voltages since my RAM is 1.35V by default. ufarn fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Jan 28, 2021 |
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Jan 28, 2021 00:33
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Well the 3600 OC was a bust. Didn't even boot at all. Pretty weird how instantly it failed, compared to when I once tried a 3333 profile that took a few days to show its weaknesses. What's weird though was that BIOS showed the stick as 3700 in the right-hand info panel. What's up with that? Also, what's a safe voltage window for memory? I don't wanna fiddle with it otherwise, I just used the 3600 here because the recommended value was on 1.35V anyway.
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Jan 28, 2021 15:11
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Two years is pretty quick for thermal paste to need repasting. Maybe the case move separated the thermal interface between CPU and heatsink, which is why it can't cool it more? It's also possible the paste pattern or job didn't cover the core in question properly or something? Thermal paste itself expires pretty quickly, especially Noctua's, so if you're using the same old tube, it's probably past its expiration date. I just looked at my box, and it says max three years of storage time.
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Jan 31, 2021 20:57
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