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Eegah posted:What I figured, thanks. Unfortunately the one decent trainer I can find here in Sacramento (why are there so few here?) only has her kindergarten class up to 16 weeks and Tater's 18, so off to some place in Davis I guess. There are a lot of good trainers in Davis, come on we're not THAT far away.
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# ¿ May 12, 2012 05:31 |
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# ¿ Apr 17, 2024 20:32 |
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While it's not super common for a 2 year old dog to get really sick from parvo, you need to go see a vet. Black, tarry diarrhea is a sign of hemorrhage in the GI tract and they can crash from that pretty quick, especially with the "bloodshot" eyes you describe - that can be a sign of severe dehydration and/or hypovolemic shock. If the dog wasn't having these signs at the shelter, it's not their fault necessarily and you need to get the dog to a vet and then worry about letting the shelter know what's going on for their own purposes (if it's something contagious, other dogs there may have been exposed). Also he was probably not abused, just poorly socialized.
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2012 17:21 |
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Enelrahc posted:Interestingly, humans transmit 100% of their antibodies across the placenta and that's why babies do okay on straight formula after birth. Evolution probably figured we'd gently caress it up even more than horses do, which is saying something. Evolution doesn't figure, it's a reaction. Unless you're a horse. Then it doesn't want anything to do with you.
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# ¿ Jul 11, 2012 18:05 |
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Riiseli posted:But I would limit nighttime water access, if I got an amusement drinker. If my dog gets a bowl of water in the crate, she tips it over and plays in it. Even heavy bowls. Steps on the front with all her retard strength and flings the water. She used to do this with bowls outside of the crate too when she was done drinking out of them.
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# ¿ Jul 14, 2012 06:08 |
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Veskit posted:I don't even care if this is bad training since she's quiet, not anxious and not peeing. It's not. Whatever works for your dog is the best training.
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# ¿ Aug 1, 2012 18:57 |
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uptown posted:He doesn't really engage in much outside of the house. He's been playing fine in the backyard, but once we get out of the gate he just freezes and tries to go up the front steps I'm taking him to my parents' place today so he can play with their dog, maybe that'll help him reset a little bit if it was the barky dogs that scared him. I don't think off-leash playing with another dog is going to generalize to "don't be fearful on leash walks" at this point, even if the dogs barking was the precipitating event for the fear. Not that it's a bad idea to get him out and playing with your parents' dog at all, but I don't think that it will help the leash problem.
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# ¿ Aug 10, 2012 18:40 |
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Snowmankilla posted:My wife is a vet, so she is leaning towards the sick one (who is also the runt). so typical. I apologize in advance that you will likely never own a perfectly healthy animal with all of its eyes/limbs intact.
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2012 15:16 |
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HelloSailorSign posted:Or its abdominal vasculature intact. Or its brain in good working order.
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2012 16:13 |
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do you restrict her water access at all or does she have free access to it?
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# ¿ Sep 20, 2012 04:20 |
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Serella posted:The era of the "don't be a dick" rule o.g. till i die.
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# ¿ Sep 26, 2012 03:35 |
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Superconsndar posted:House training was by far a bigger problem than exercise- we were on the second floor and it was quite a treck for a small puppy to get to grass. It took him a while to understand that "directly outside the front door =/= STILL NOT OKAY TO POTTY YET." That, and I slacked sometimes on potty breaks because "really, it's 4 am and I have to get up, dressed, find baggies, put shoes on, find leash, and walk you all the way out there are you kidding me uggggh." We slogged through it though and it was okay. Pippa was a 2nd floor apartment dog (who couldn't navigate down the type of stairs they had in my complex) for her first 8 months with me and the issues were very similar. I'd want to run her outside and as soon as she would get past the welcome mat to the concrete walkway she'd start to squat and I'm like NOOO but she's deaf so she obv couldn't hear... That said, we managed, she's housetrained and we live in a place with a yard now and it was worth it.
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# ¿ Oct 25, 2012 03:03 |
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BigDave posted:OK, thanks for the advise. He's not dangerously thin or anything, just feed him appropriately (according to bag instructions) for his weight and see how he does. Chances are he'll put on a bit of weight from this just fine (and honestly you may end up needing to decrease from this if he puts on too much), but honestly it's better for him to be on the leaner side of ideal than the larger side of ideal.
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# ¿ Nov 5, 2012 21:41 |
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You know, I've seen some pretty freaking weird things end up being some variety of neurologic/seizure disorder. Nothing surprises me anymore. Could you get video of an episode during the day and one at night? You know, for science? (and the behaviorist/neurologist would love to see these too) A consult with a neurologist and a veterinary behaviorist, maybe at the same place so they can work together on it, would be the way I would want to go with something like that. What breed/mix is the dog, just out of curiosity? Topoisomerase fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Nov 19, 2012 |
# ¿ Nov 19, 2012 06:47 |
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MrFurious posted:Don't think I saw you mention this, but I just want to confirm. Have you actually talked with the foster and verified that this behavior is new upon her moving in with you? If that's the case, I would argue it detracts from being a neurological issue and is probably a stimulus you can't detect. Given that the building is new it could just be creaking wood frames as everything settles in. But stress (such as moving to a new place) can trigger neurologic episodes as well. My dog's last seizure (classic generalized tonic-clonic seizure, definitely neurologic) was the first night that I was gone for a 3 week period over the summer. I think it's worth it to investigate both avenues. edit: when you think about it, it makes sense - both sorts of issues would be mediated in the brain.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2012 23:15 |
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That dog absolutely needs to see a neurologist and a behaviorist if you want further investigation into this. Your primary vet could probably do some drug trials to see if certain things work, but IMO if it were me I'd be wanting to do some more advanced diagnostics first, as well as a full neurologic exam and behavioral history assessment. With that in mind, those episodes look very similar (vocalization, licking/fly biting, air scratching with that hind leg) to some of the episodes that are seen in Cavalier King Charles Spaniels with syringohydromyelia caused by caudal occipital malformation syndrome. This is also a problem seen in Papillons. The other major neurologic things that these could be are complex partial seizures (like the fly biting ones typically seen with temporal lobe epilepsy) or other malformation of skull/brain such as congenital hydrocephalus. Behaviorally it could also be manifestations of OCD as others have commented. Either way, I'd want to get it sorted out by specialists for sure. edit: here is a decent video showing some of it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDjxvgfUVRU Topoisomerase fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Nov 21, 2012 |
# ¿ Nov 21, 2012 06:47 |
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Thanks for posting follow-up. I'm glad that you got to the specialist and I hope that the phenobarbital helps. I actually was a bit leaning towards seizure after you said the benzo you had her on might have decreased the episodes a little, even though alprazolam is a pretty poor antiepileptic at a higher dose it can have some seizure suppressing effects as most benzos do.
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# ¿ Nov 25, 2012 07:13 |
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The only comment I will make on the inbreeding coefficient is that its utility depends entirely on the genetic makeup of the foundation stock you use. Once the studbook is closed, the alleles you have in the population are the ones that are going to stay there. If your founder stock (with respect to the pedigree you're constructing) were already purebred dogs, you were already drawing from a limited gene pool in the first place and inbreeding coefficient has a very limited and speculative utility when discussing health of any individual in the population. Topoisomerase fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Nov 27, 2012 |
# ¿ Nov 27, 2012 06:24 |
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Rixatrix posted:It does (even then) give you an idea on how quickly you are losing material from that limited gene pool in general if you look at the whole breed. I didn't say that it didn't, but to use it to predict anything about a single member of the population is dangerous. That was my point.
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# ¿ Nov 27, 2012 16:26 |
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MrFurious posted:Do you feel that I misrepresented or incorrectly assessed anything above in the discussion of inbreeding? Well, for one, I don't think 10% is a very high average to say that Goldens especially have a problem with inbreeding. By nature any population with a closed studbook will be inbred. That's absolutely inherent to purebreds. If you don't want an inbred dog, don't get a purebred dog. 10% is actually pretty moderate for a closed studbook breed. However, it's kind of a shot in the dark as to what that actually MEANS for an individual IMO - if one were to evaluate the same with genomic markers it could be way off from that estimate in either direction. In a population sense it's good to cover your bases if all you have is pedigree analysis, but I think in purebred dogs with the tools we have now we can do better than that. I mean if we're going to say we're breeding individuals for diversity why not screen both parents for heterozygosity and compare that to other members of the breed?
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# ¿ Nov 27, 2012 16:36 |
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Superconsndar posted:Working breeders just about never outcross anything ever in my breed and they all live to be 100. There's my anecdote! they live off of the blood of babies and roids that doesn't count
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# ¿ Nov 27, 2012 16:41 |
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wtftastic posted:What if their foundation stock (this breeder we're being asked about) are all fairly distantly related to one another? I don't know how large the starting amount of viszlas or Weims is, but let's say they got their stock from several different breeders and that the dogs they are breeding aren't any closer than say, 2nd cousins. Not ideal, but still, its not like a brother sister or grandaughter to grandfather pairing in terms of crazy inbreeding. I wouldn't see a problem with that if the dogs are health tested (and their status for heritable diseases common to the breed is known) so that you can avoid pairing carriers etc. The issue goes back farther than the specific breeder's foundation stock. When I say founders I mean the dogs at the top of the pedigree. Their genes are all the population has. So if their genetic makeup is very similar to each other, but they're at the top of the pedigree so they're being represented as totally unrelated, you can see where that can cause an issue where you can only interpret the inbreeding coefficient relative to them. You can say "we are trying to preserve this % of founder alleles" but you can't really say that those alleles are necessarily different from each other which is the entire point of an inbreeding coefficient - to estimate the % of alleles between two individuals that are likely to be identical by descent (meaning they came from the same ancestor).
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# ¿ Nov 27, 2012 16:54 |
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MrFurious posted:That's a fair point, but given that registration on the k9data site is voluntary by owner, there's likely a bias towards lower COI because Average Joe isn't interested. This is the sort of thing dog nerds are doing, who are more likely to be concerned about things like this. Actually since a lot of BYBs kind of breed their dogs indiscriminately, I'd be willing to bet that in comparing two populations from the same breed you'd have a higher average inbreeding coefficient amongst the dog nerd types than the BYB types. Inbreeding is one thing we cannot sit here and point fingers at BYBs for.
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# ¿ Nov 27, 2012 16:56 |
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wtftastic posted:Oh I realize that. I meant more that (from my point of view) since the stud books/ breed registries for most breeds are closed, there's no real point in saying "x has inbred dogs" unless we're saying that they're specifically breeding very closely related dogs or semi-closely related dogs. All dogs in the same breed must be related to some degree because they're from the same small pool of foundation dogs. I understand that COI gives us important information, but I don't really think any of what we're discussing really relates back to that specific breeder, I guess. But if we're trying to say that a low COI = a healthier dog, then what really matters is the actual genetic makeup of the dogs involved, right? That's where it does relate back.
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# ¿ Nov 27, 2012 17:34 |
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There's a battle about Tollers right now and I'm pretty sure the problems that pugs have are not related to their population size but to their horrible conformational standards. I digress though. To simpify it down to its roots, my whole entire point is that the amount of dogs in any breed right now makes absolutely no difference. The ONLY thing that really matters to the potential amount of diversity you can get in the breed is the size of the founder population and how evenly the alleles from the founder population are distributed. The whole point of purebred animals is to create animals that look and act relatively similarly so it is necessary that they are going to have similar genetic makeups as well. I think pedigree analysis has its place, but I'd caution against making too many decisions based on it. It's just too inaccurate and problematic.
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# ¿ Nov 27, 2012 23:18 |
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Cats can easily jump a baby gate. If the cats are dog savvy, that could be a decent idea, but if the idea is to keep them actually separated it won't work.
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# ¿ Dec 27, 2012 06:59 |
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Post video please. It would actually be pretty abnormal for a 1 year old dog to get what we call idiopathic peripheral vestibular disease.
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# ¿ Jan 1, 2013 11:04 |
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Perhaps it would help to not think of things like pain medication as an "upsell." The thing is, vets are damned if they do and damned if they don't with regard to discussing costs and treatment options with owners. edit: Three Olives, they were trying to inform you of all of the options so that you can make a decision. As in most medical fields right now the idea is that they want you to be in the drivers seat regarding the choices you make. Topoisomerase fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Jan 4, 2013 |
# ¿ Jan 4, 2013 21:06 |
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Splat posted:Weird question: Since we've had Penelope (~3 weeks) we've noticed she's kind of.. poorly coordinated? I guess that's the best way to put it. When she walks she seems normal, and her full sprint seems normal too, but when he's in the mid-range trot she either pick up her front legs way more than normal (like she's walking on hot coal with them or something), or she does a weird skip trot. She's also kinda clumsy going up and down the stairs. It's weird because she's fairy well balanced when she's standing on her hind legs, but her regular movement is weird. I got a couple sorta okay examples of it on video here: Is it only on that surface that she's on there (which looks like a fairly slippery one) or is it outside on grass that she runs like this too? It'd be nice to see someone gait her at a few different angles. Also what does she look like when she's eating? And how old is she?
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2013 08:14 |
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Yeah I stalked to see if there were other videos and saw that one, she doesn't look terribly ataxic, I agree, but she does look like she overextends a bit. Do you have a lead that somebody can put on her and walk/trot her back and forth a few times?
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2013 09:05 |
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ButWhatIf posted:The bitch had to have a c-section and was spayed and lost eligibility for showing and registering any of her future offspring. Well I assume future offspring wouldn't be a thing since she was spayed. But I think it's pretty dumb if having a mixed litter would affect being able to register future offspring....
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# ¿ Feb 11, 2013 06:30 |
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Avshalom posted:I'm a bit worried because they're so proud of how "fierce" she is with strangers (wtf, six-month-old puppies aren't meant to be fierce) but hopefully the Labrador nature will temper that and she won't end up eating their friends or anything. lol i hope you don't actually believe that. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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# ¿ Mar 6, 2013 10:28 |
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Arsenic Lupin posted:I spent all night last night with nightmares about having bought two puppies from a pet store, and the reason it was a nightmare was I knew how angry Pet Island would be with me. Don't blame us just because you didn't sleep long enough to get to the part where they died of parvo or had terrible genetic diseases at the age of 2.
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# ¿ Mar 6, 2013 20:47 |
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Silly Hippie posted:HA. At ten years my dachshund decided walking on our hardwood floors is The Worst Thing out of loving nowhere* and now sits on a small floor rug and drags herself around the living room with her front paws like a dumb hairy gondolier. That's great practice for the way she will have to get around when she herniates a disk. (IT'S A JOKE OKAY PLEASE DO NOT THINK I AM INSULTING YOU OR YOUR NOBLE DACHSHUND)
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# ¿ Apr 11, 2013 18:16 |
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Fraction posted:Why is it that you have to wait two weeks after the final vaccination jabs before taking out a pup? Does it take two weeks for them to kick in or something? The thing with puppies and vaccinations is that they are born with some immunity (a short-lasting type of antibodies) from their mothers and also acquire more after birth through nursing. These antibodies start to decline between 6-8 weeks or so after birth and should basically wear off by 12-16 weeks. The time in between this is a vulnerable time, so that's when we begin the vaccine series. However, there is some level of inherent biological feedback such that the puppy's immune system will not fully respond to the vaccinations due to the continued presence of the immunity from the mother. Since both generation of immunity and the wearing off of the maternal immunity are continuous processes, we can't really say that the puppies are fully protected during this time despite receiving the vaccinations. So that's a part of the reasoning behind the historical recommendation that puppies not be taken out until after the final vaccines. Another part is what Rixatrix said, and still another part is that to a point, each set of boosters causes an exponential increase in immunity due to different types of antibodies being formed. So there are a lot of factors that go into that recommendation. As others have noted, many behaviorists are challenging this idea and the compromise for now seems to be that puppies should definitely be socialized during this critical time but should only interact with other dogs and people in a 'controlled' environment where you know the vaccination and health status of any dogs the puppy will contact, or they are other puppies at the same vaccination stage. So dog parks, pet stores and other places like that should probably be avoided but taking your puppy to your friend's house for a play date with their vaccinated puppy and vaccinated healthy adult dog in their yard is fine, etc. I think if you do some digging you should be able to find some research recently published on this that is aimed towards veterinarians and promotes 'puppy classes' (it was actually done by some professors at my school and so I knew about it prior to publication and edit: Ian Dunbar talks about the research I mention in a recent blog entry - it was published last month. Topoisomerase fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Apr 26, 2013 |
# ¿ Apr 26, 2013 16:49 |
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I'm not as familiar with the infectious diseases in wildlife in the UK as I am with the ones in the US obviously, but at least here, some of the viruses that we vaccinate dogs against can also be spread by coyotes, raccoons and other wildlife so I personally might be a bit concerned but it's a risk vs benefit decision that you have to make as the owner.
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2013 17:09 |
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^^^This is not always true, some of the pet insurance companies end up being life savers, for what they are. What happens if you put $20/month in an account and your dog gets hit by a car a year later? Your $240 isn't going to go very far. You'd have been better off getting Care Credit and then being able to pay it down with whatever the insurance company will reimburse you - I've seen some of them reimburse a LOT of money before...systran posted:Two or three weeks ago my 8-month-old corgi became extremely lethargic and wouldn't eat. As the night went on he got worse and seemed in some pain. We took him to the emergency care clinic and they implied he might have inflammation or some form of meningitis. They gave him painkillers but recommended we get him an MRI/spinal tap if he didn't improve. Read your policy carefully - many of them will not cover anything within the first x amount of time after you purchase coverage so it may be a moot point whether it's 'preexisting' or not. Fairly unlikely to be meningitis or meningoencephalitis if it just went away within 24h and came back intermittently, but without a workup last time I wouldn't rule anything out. Topoisomerase fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Apr 30, 2013 |
# ¿ Apr 30, 2013 22:30 |
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Fraction posted:I've tried; she won't drink it when I'm holding her, and I can't put her down. You can put her down for a little bit so she can get a drink of water lol
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# ¿ May 1, 2013 19:15 |
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ButWhatIf posted:For house-training, my rule of thumb is "can I see her?" If so, fine. If not, either restrict access to other parts of the house or put back on a long line. Once you've hit a good month or so with no accidents, expand access to the house. If there's a set back, go back to last set-up where you had success. This is what I did with Pippa (indoors obv). When I knew I was going to be paying attention to something else too deeply to watch her, I kept her tethered mostly, but if I was able to keep an eye on her while I did something else that didn't demand a ton of attention I'd let her off (dragging the leash though) and close the bedroom and bathroom doors so I could keep an eye on her. Obviously I took it kinda slow with a dog whose attention I can't really get from across the room, but eventually I could trust her to be fine for moderate amounts of time without supervision. I do still keep her confined when I'm not home, though, primarily because I would rather her not seizure herself off the couch or into the television if she has a seizure while I'm gone, but I think without that aspect added in I may trust her pretty well at this point.
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# ¿ May 20, 2013 22:52 |
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a life less posted:#24 on my list of Scary Things You Don't Want To Hear From Your Vet. Fortunately enelrahc is not planning on doing any dog/cat medicine at all. Anyway dogs also assume that abducted elbow posture when they are having some amount of respiratory difficulty, similarly to how we bipeds lock our elbows flexed and extend shoulders either over our heads or with hands propped on knees to 'catch our breath' after a run that taxes our cardiovascular system. Apparently the posture recruits accessory chest/neck muscles that allow greater expansion of the trachea and lungs to get more air in. And bunny hopping gait can be a sign of neurologic incoordination. Of course, puppies exhibit all kinds of signs of incoordination because they are not really coordinated yet so it can be pretty normal in them! And fraction your dog is not in respiratory distress it's probably just a puppy being a puppy so please no freaking out.
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# ¿ May 28, 2013 02:52 |
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# ¿ Apr 17, 2024 20:32 |
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TShields posted:I should probably note that my wife is a vet tech and he's been in with her several times due to an upper respiratory infection that won't seem to go away, and they haven't noticed anything weird with him. Could it be related to the fact that we're at work for 8 hours a day and he hasn't been going in his kennel, so he ends up pretty full up when we get home? Could you consider finding someone to let him out in the middle of the day as well? I realize the problem isn't him going in the crate but that's still a really long time to hold it for a puppy and holding it for a long time like that isn't the greatest thing in the world. I feel like my dog didn't really become fully housetrained until she totally trusted that someone was going to let her out before she got really uncomfortable (well, and until she matured a bit).
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# ¿ Jun 9, 2013 18:06 |