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Bacteriophage
May 2, 2005
CELLUAR LYSIS!
Here's a tip we learned the hard way - make sure all your trash cans either have lids that your pup can't open or hide them under the sink or something. Our puppy got into the bathroom trash and ate a disposable razor head. That was a fun $800 lesson right there. The best part about the whole ordeal is they couldn't find it in his stomach during surgery (when they did his xray they weren't sure if it was still in his stomach or had moved to his intestines) and he ended up safely pooping it out post-op. Horray for puppies...

Actual question, the aforementioned pup (1 year old now) is still having some problems with mouthing. We end whatever we're doing and ignore him if he starts mouthing us but we've been doing this for like 6 months and it doesn't seem like he's getting it. Any tips?

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Bacteriophage
May 2, 2005
CELLUAR LYSIS!

a life less posted:

How are you ignoring him?


Our last trainer suggested to just end any interaction with him and just turn away and ignore him for like 30 seconds. We never really left the room but just walked a few steps away from him. I'm taking your advice on upping the ante and try to leave the room until he calms himself down. He's a mess about that though because he's gangly and will paw at our backs or try to tug at our arms if we turn away from him when he's getting all bitey excited. Should we just keep walking away and ignoring him?

Bacteriophage
May 2, 2005
CELLUAR LYSIS!

a life less posted:

The pawing and tugging at your arms is still highly reinforcing for him. I would either leave the room, or tie a leash to your coffee table and use that as a tether station -- it's easily accessible and does a better job of disallowing your dog to continue to interact with you after the inappropriate behaviour.

I also hope you try the toy-getting to replace the inappropriate behaviour. It's very difficult to tell a dog "don't do that" - we may think it's simple, but it's too abstract a concept for them. The better approach is, "instead of doing that, do this instead". Replacing bad behaviour with acceptable behaviour is key.

And remember, the mouthing, pawing and tugging has worked for almost a year, so it's going to take some time before you extinguish it.

Thanks for the tips! As far as the toy tip goes, should we always have a toy nearby to shove in his mouth when he starts mouthing or is it just as effective to shove a toy in his mouth a few extra seconds it takes me to find a toy and shove it in his mouth? I know with training timing is the key, but how much of a grace period do I have?

Bacteriophage
May 2, 2005
CELLUAR LYSIS!

a life less posted:

The less time you allow lapse the better.

Also, if he's uninterested in having a toy shoved in his mouth, you can try to elicit a game of chase. When we teach people how to play with their pups, I see a lot of people just holding the toy in front of their dogs face and pushing it towards their month - not too many pups react to that. Tapping into their prey/chase drive is normally much more successful. Eventually with enough repetitions your pup should go find a toy on his own, but in the early stages the more immediate, fun and engaging you make the replacement behaviour the better.

Sorry for all the questions but you're so helpful!

Well Garp does love his toys but I think he loves a game of chase more. We have tried to pivot from being mouthy to a game of chase but he always starts out the game by hopping around and trying to nip at us before he will be chased, I don't know if that's just reinforcing more bad behavior? I don't know how to calmly introduce a game of chase with him.

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