|
Has anyone painted the Qubeley Papillon that can validate a thing I want to do? I'm planning on making the whole thing metallic. The purple torso parts will be done with Vallejo metallic medium after priming, the dark steel parts with accompanying Alclad, the remainder I plan on candy-coating. Primer, airbrushed Alclad gloss black, airbrushed Alclad chrome, and airbrushed turquoise mixed from Tamiya transparent green/blue. The coral parts I'll mask after applying the chrome. Here's the thing I want to do: I'll use the decals themselves for masking. I'll stick them to my skin or shirt once or twice to de-tack them a little and make them easier to pull off later. However, since the cuffs and other small parts may be iffy, I plan on hand-painting on the coral pink accent parts mixed with Vallejo metallic medium once I figure out how to mix the coral right. The thing for that: reverse masking. I'll cut out the parts of the decal that remain after removing it, and just slip it over, using it as a hand-painted mask. I do have the paint-on mask stuff, but I've had real problems getting it fully cleanly removed, especially from really tight parts - the elbow cuffs, toes, etc. come to mind.
|
#
¿
Aug 28, 2014 16:22
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 04:19 |
|
|
Ledenko posted:I know it's not cost effective but I'll just buy some good airbrushable gloss and matte finishes when I'm actually doing painting. Still less of a hassle than getting a quart of liquid from wherever. This is the stuff you want - and I assure you, it's extremely easy and forgiving to airbrush on. It's in any grocery store or Walmart/Target, with the rest of the floor cleaners. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pledge-Floor-Care-27-fl-oz/15136693 Chiming in on airbrushing - I have had very good success with this as a basic airbrush. All I'm doing is getting paint on there, not freehanding any fancy designs or anything, but it works great. As long as you clean it between colors - 91% rubbing alcohol from your drugstore for acrylics, airbrush cleaner for lacquer (I've been using Alclad's lacquers and cleaner - this stuff works great) you're gonna do just fine. http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbru...rush+compressor The downside: no moisture trap and you don't have a gauge to do psi readout, but you can eyeball it. Maxes out at 25psi, auto-start is at 15psi. For the price, it's done me just fine for a double-action airbrush and compressor. Works fine outside, but I got the $80ish spray booth and exhaust hose. Next step: gotta figure out how I can run this thing out a basement window in the winter. Anyway, here's my present stash, kept at the office. Had a non-grade GM Command given to me for free that I used to practice some seam hiding/painting, which is being retired to be used as a battle damage/weathering test dummy. Also, a question: has anyone successfully pulled off the stressed and utilized vernier/thruster as portrayed here? Seems like a cool effect but for the life of me, when I apply the green and blue to finish, even if it's very light, it just looks bluish/greenish. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZBWn2kaL9M
|
|
#
¿
Sep 2, 2014 15:14
|
|
|
Stupid nub cleaning question. I tried filing down the nub but when the nub was flush, it ended up scratching the hell out of the plastic and I'd have to progressive sand it clean anyway. I'm using a set of hobby files I got at Lowe's. I'm guessing I'm operating with too low of a grit. Is there a finer grit/better quality file that you guys/girls recommend? For what it's worth, I generally don't paint and just go the topcoat route. Edit: I would love to get some suggestions on tools/tips to cut nubs cleanly enough to skip all the sanding to clean 'em up - no objection with sinking $30 into the Tamiya sprue cutters. I already tried these and while they are very clean, they aren't super clean and put a lot of stress on my pointer finger: http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=3749 MJP fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Oct 13, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Oct 13, 2014 16:07
|
|
|
AVeryLargeRadish posted:That base comes with the little card that goes inside. The Action Base 3 just uses standard size post cards so you just buy/make one and stick it in. The little display thing that comes with the Action Base 1 is a do it yourself type of deal, you would have to make a label on your computer and print it on sticky labels or card stock and tape it on. Sorry for postomancy, but I used this to great effect: http://www.gundamtoyshop.com/gundam-news/customize-design-gunpla-gp-base-display-stand-template-gundam-build-fighter Comes with templates that match both the ones that come with the GP Base itself and the ones that match the anime as well, although my color printer sucks for the anime template contrast. Bimmi posted:I've never seen anything give a cleaner cut than those tweezer nippers. You do need to eyeball it so that the blades are both parallel to the surface of the part and cutting through the least amount of plastic possible though, otherwise it can be just as sloppy as any $10 piece o' crap nippers. They're also not made for cutting through thick sprue, which is something the POC types are good for. It's the act of squeezing that put fatigue on my finger. It hurt after using it for a while, and taking Aleve after seeing my orthopedist a couple of times helped. Do you just kinda push that #16 blade up against the sprue to cut it? Seems like it's really difficult to use. I think one of the Gundam Planet videos mentioned that a curved blade was the master race for nub removal - any experience with one?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 13, 2014 19:47
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:I'm really, really tempted to just buy a bunch more empty paint markers. That way I could prime and airbrush, clip, and then use a marker with my own chosen paint to go over the nub. Are the paint markers one-shot items? Because that sounds really, really useful for my situation - shave the nub, paint over, move on with life.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 13, 2014 22:00
|
|
|
If you're painting an entire runner, what if you only realize after the fact that there's a seam that needs joining? How do you clean up the nubs without re-priming/painting the nub?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 14, 2014 16:33
|
|
|
I used some dense styrofoam that came with a cheapo remote-control quadcopter. Doesn't break apart and has served me well for almost a year of skewering. Also, very cheap alligator clips can be had in a blister pack at Harbor Freight Tools.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 14, 2014 19:52
|
|
|
So I retried my nub cleanup methodology and lo and behold, the tweezer sprue cutters + nice sharp Xacto blade + thumbnail scrape rubbing did as good of a job as non-tweezer sprue cuts + close non-tweezer trimming + Xacto shaving + progressive sanding and saved me tons of time. Below is how the methods compare on the MG Delta Plus leg with bonus shiny piston action, which only shows about 2cm at most once I had all the parts together, goddammit. Given that this picture was taken with a CFL bulb about 4 feet up, shining directly on the part, with zero flat topcoat, I'm willing to bet the discoloration is so minor to be unnoticeable once it's on display. 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2014 16:00
|
|
|
Razzled posted:I got my MG Buster Gundam 1/100 kit in the mail yesterday, dam that box is huge! Also what the gently caress Build Fighters, I went from 0 kits to 3 in the space of like 15 episodes. Still gotta finish my RG RX-78-2. Now I need to exercise some control lol before this poo poo gets out of hand Please do post a lot about the MG Buster. It's on my list after MG Blitz.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2014 16:39
|
|
|
BlitzBlast posted:MG Buster is a very solid kit. It's only got two weapons, but Bandai went all out on them. The heavy armor on the arm gets in the way of articulation a bit, but I can't think of any other problems besides that. I'll be honest - despite the fact that it's basically an enlarged HGCE or equivalent, if I wanted a 1/100 Blitz and Buster, would I be better off saving the money and time and doing the 1/100 kits that exist of them if I plan on just doing straight builds, cleaning up nubs, and cementing seams?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2014 21:40
|
|
|
TaurusOxford posted:No. With only a few exceptions, the 1/100 NG Seed kits are mediocre at best. The MGs are worth the money. The NGs are not. How bad am I going to be with the Lunamaria version of the Gunner Zaku Warrior? Not gonna lie, I always liked that kit, and if it's just polycaps and externals I'd rather have the bigger one, unless the HGCE version is for some reason a better buy/better build.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2014 22:21
|
|
|
Side question for lurking stupid idea: other than taking Nobell or Nobell Berserker hair, resin casting it, and futzing, are there any other ways to give a Gundam mecha hair of some sort?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2014 16:59
|
|
|
Poison Mushroom posted:I choose to believe the question is being asked because the poster is homebrewing a Genesic GaoGaiGar. I like the color schemes of some of the Idolm@ster stage outfits, and hence I'd really like a Ganaha Gundam. :-(
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2014 18:43
|
|
|
Zedd posted:Bandai, where is my MG Fenice and Gundam X Maoh. If we aren't getting an MG Qubeley Papillon... ;_;
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2014 18:49
|
|
|
Metal detail-up parts and Alclad metallizer rule.   (not yet final, the beam rifle still needs its detailing, and I'm still waiting on an action base and larger pin vise bit to drill out the vulcans and replace those with metal parts before topcoating) MJP fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Oct 20, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Oct 20, 2014 16:52
|
|
|
Koopa Kid posted:Man, you're making me want to get a Delta Plus. Where'd you buy the metal detail parts from? Found 'em on Ebay from the sellers below. http://www.ebay.com/usr/zi9720?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2754 http://www.ebay.com/usr/abby.lc?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2754 Zi9720 is located in Florida so you'll get stuff fast, but their selection isn't as broad as abby.lc, which is in Hong Kong, but they use the faster HK shipping. I got my stuff in five working days. The A size photo-etch sheets cover most any circular spots on an HG kit, with some of the larger ones on A working for small circle spots on MG kits. B size has more or less everything for MG and larger. Application is simple in theory but tricky. The photo-etch sheets are packed in a sandwich of adhesive plastic. Peel off the top to expose the detail bits. Use an Xacto knife to gently lift them off the bottom adhesive, which holds them in place. Use tweezers to maneuver them into position. Put a dollop - just a very bare dollop - of 15-20 second superglue on the spot that's getting the detail. Don't put it on the detail part itself. Put the detail part on the glue, let the tweezers go, but since the tweezers are ridged, it'll probably want to stay on. Tap it gently into place with a toothpick. It sounds tougher than it is, it just takes focus and patience, but you gotta work quick. If you're using the minus molds/screw heads/screw head rivets, it's way easier. Use a pin vise to drill a good sized hole, put superglue in the hole, and push it in with your fingers. To be honest, I like the look of the mech form of the Delta Plus more than the Waverider form, and it's very clear that there's liberties taken in the construction of the frame to make it transformable. Some parts pop out a little easily. Don't let this deter you if you like the Delta Plus or plan to transform it - just be wary that it's meant to transform, and the degree of flex it has at some parts is normal and expected. It's a bit back-heavy, though, and the foot/ankle joint is a bit loose. It needs an action base to stand up properly. BlitzBlast posted:Supply and demand. v This. I'm holding out for HLJ to come across some 1/100 Lunamaria Gunner Zaku Warriors. I ain't paying $50 for one on Ebay without a fight.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 21, 2014 17:01
|
|
v It's the unfortunate part of buying older kits, they're not in production anymore (or at least not for a while) so resellers can freely raise the price.
|
Koopa Kid posted:Thanks for this! Yeah I'd read that the Delta basically needs an action base to stand up without joint strengthening, I'm no stranger to either so it doesn't bug me much. Now I just need to work through my backlog before I go on another buying spree... Yeah, no worries. If you look on HLJ you can find many more option parts - Kotobukiya and Wave make a bunch. Adler's Nest is out of Japan and makes good-looking stuff, too, including airliner-style thrusters. Ever want your Tallgeese to look like it was the offspring of a Leo and a 787? Now you can! Definitely can't recommend getting into Alclad if you have an airbrush, though. The piston on the Delta Plus looks real, and I did the external tubing on my Zaku I Sniper in Alclad since it was a separate part. You gotta go easy on the metallizer when it's time to put it on, and you really gotta use their gloss black base - thinned Tamiya just doesn't give the same luster - but your reward is something that looks like it's actual metal. Edit: here's the Zaku I Sniper. http://i.imgur.com/QK9vFJ5.jpg
|
|
#
¿
Oct 21, 2014 17:59
|
|
|
Gammatron 64 posted:gently caress dry transfers forever. After seeing what Samueldecal sells for their MG Delta Plus waterslides, I took to the dry transfers with gusto. They're amazing to work with but the lettering, kerning, borders of the letters - everything I never really noticed - was really, really, noticeably poor. Nthing "gently caress dry tranfers" but damned if they didn't work fine so long as I erred on the side of rubbing more than necessary. Maybe it also helps that I put down a decent coat of Future beforehand? I mean, it felt really, really polished and had serious gloss. Probably the best Futuring I've done.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2014 19:02
|
|
|
John Carstairs posted:Because it has two faces! Delta Plus does this too - one for straight black a la Hyaku Shiki, one for black with red eyes a la Delta Plus. I hosed up the placement and just painted it over with metallic-medium black ;_;
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2014 22:23
|
|
|
JimmyBiskit posted:Picked up the white Ginkei ship from Ikaruga to match the black Ikaruga I built a month ago. Some progress pictures from today: I have this and am legit scared of the decaling. I had a very bad experience with some large/long Hasegawa decals that basically didn't want to come off without breaking. A lot. Don't not post more of the build, I am watching with great interest as to whether I have the skill to make the Ginkei or if I should save myself the trouble and sell it.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2014 16:30
|
|
|
I ordered an MG Rick Dom because it's apparently tough to find - $52 on Amazon because Gundam Planet's outta stock. Gonna be a while before it gets here... might as well start on the next big backlog item.  600 pieces, what seems like 20 sprues... 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 28, 2014 20:44
|
|
|
Never really done progress photos, but will try. I'm just doing a straight build with a few pieces Alclad metallized - just the toe spikes and pistons - to stand out a bit. For those who're interested, the far more screen-accurate gray version is getting a re-release: http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYKP-221/Sci
|
|
#
¿
Oct 28, 2014 21:35
|
|
|
I'm watching ZZ for the first time and just saw the Jamru Fin. The only kit of it looks to be ancient pre-HG stuff. It runs around $40. Is it worth even bothering if all I want is to have it in its default flight-lookin' mode?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2014 17:24
|
|
|
Midjack posted:The shipping delay is a natural brake on stockpiling, circumvent it with care. This. I wanted to dive into an MG Rick Dom, but lack of domestic availability - and 3-4 weeks to ship via an Amazon seller- is forcing me to build Rex to clear my small backlog. It's a good thing.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 30, 2014 18:30
|
|
|
CURVED XACTO BLADES. Holy crap. Get them, use them, they work AWESOME for nub removal. Gripping the knife like a pen, push with just enough pressure slightly perpendicular to the surface, a few passes, it's CLEANLY CUT. Repeat gradually more parallel to the surface of the nub, and boom. It almost requires no thumbnail scraping. Anyway, progress on Metal Gear Rex. The toe spikes and pistons were done in Alclad, hence why so little progress to show for a week's work (that plus the day job was ripping my eyes out from the sockets). A lesson learned: Alclad the toe spikes AFTER they go through their socket parts. Two light coats of primer, two light coats of gloss base, and two light coats of duraluminum Alclad must've thickened it a bit. I had to shove 'em through and there are dings in the paint because of it. I may try to just tamp them down, or cheat and drybrush in Tamiya chrome given that if I put on more Alclad, it'll lower the luster. Most seams are covered by the external armor parts so far. It's a very involved build but very well-engineered. These metal pistons'll probably show a lot more than the ones I did for the Delta Plus, at least! Kotobukiya could teach Bandai a lesson in engineering parts to fit - these tolerances are tight, and most of the major structural parts REALLY hold together. I'm not quite a fan of the brown used for some parts, though.   
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2014 02:59
|
|
|
Fauxtool posted:speaking of buying recolors ::backlog intensifies:: Blackchamber posted:It already looks very complex/detailed for just the feet. I'm going to pick one up next paycheck. Thus far it's like a more linear MG kit. It's got an internal frame that isn't as meant for detailed display, but structural integrity. I've never built a PG kit, so I can't speak to comparison against that, so YMMV. Thus far the internal parts are quite well covered to the point where there are no seams - for example, the toe spike holder plate covers up two seams that had nubs I was less than clean at removing and was using extra-thin cement to dissolve bad white marks. The point is basically moot now. Whatever type of plastic Kotobukiya uses is a bit stiffer than Bandai, so you really do need to get a clean series of nub removal cuts to bring the nub to just shy of 1-2mm height. At that point it's so much easier to remove, doubly so with the curved blade but I started out with standard #11 blades. Those did fine enough.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2014 14:26
|
|
|
Am I wrong in thinking that the first picture totally looks like the big Beargguy is bitch-slapping the little one?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2014 15:19
|
|
|
Blackchamber posted:Well I've never built anything above HG so far. I have a MG I'm waiting to do until I've developed more skill, and I have one of the Girls und Panzer tanks on my backlog that has a surprising amount of pieces for. I really loved the Rex (and the MG games, if my username wasn't clue enough) so I definitely want to build one now, and of course see yours built so I can see how it all looks. Hi5 Girls und Panzerbro, I bought the StuG and an Strv-103C model kit to learn how to build tanx. After failing spectacularly at the Strv, I sent the StuG out for commission building because I suck at normal models, and the early camo frightens me Not a bad idea to get an HG or two or three before taking the plunge to an MG. I don't have much time to build during the week, and it took me something like 2 months to build the MG Zaku II 2.0. The actual building and instructions aren't tough at all, it's just a lot more parts. The skills you'll wanna develop are definitely just more or less nub removal. Bandai does a good job with the armor - individual pieces are intended to be removable, and as such I didn't have many seams to join on the Zaku II and drat near none on the Delta Plus - but it pays off to get the nubs done right. Decals, too. Do yourself a favor, get the waterslides. If the first rounds of MG Rex kits are any indication, though, BUY IT AS SOON AS YOU CAN. Took me a while before HLJ had any. I think Amazon has the black version for $80-$100ish. I put in an order while they were on backorder and jumped on paying for it, and got lucky at around 6500 yen. Shipping with other smaller kits wasn't TOO awful, so if you wanna get other stuff from HLJ that may be your best option. Maybe if enough people buy this we'll get the Shagohod... or even better, the TX-55.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2014 19:07
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 04:19 |
|
|
Speaking of metal files, these are the ones you want - they feel like around 400-600 grit and do a HEEEEELL of a job better than the set I got at Amazon. You'll want to use finer grits to clean up, but if you're gonna do basic sanding, start with these: http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/files/12-piece-needle-file-set-468.html
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2014 21:18
|
|