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So I went and bought a Red Frame Astray, 1/100 MG. I don't really know poo poo about anime, I just like building plastic things, and a big samurai robot seems up my alley. So anyways, I have an airbrush and lots of paint from painting miniatures. I'm 50/50 on whether or not I want to airbrush my kit. Any tips on things I should do IF I decide to add paint to this stuff? It looks ridiculously complex.
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Jul 29, 2014 19:18
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Outside of Astray and Musha gundams which ones should I be aiming at if what I want is ridiculous or samurai/sengoku stuff? On the list so far is the robot unicorn rider, crossbones, and beargguys.
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Jul 30, 2014 19:28
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TaurusOxford posted:So I need some criticism/advice goons. For some reason I decided to start up a blog to show off my Gunpla/figure collection(and maybe more, who knows), and I figured I would need some half-decent backdrop to use for photography, so I made this: If you don't mind spending money, light boxes can be pretty cheap and effective. But if you want my DIY suggestion, I would make a lightbox out of black or white foamcore board. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Aug 10, 2014 |
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Aug 10, 2014 04:16
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I have an airbrush and hella paint. I'm gonna fuckin airbrush a gundam. Protips? Should I assemble the skeleton before spraying? How should I go about applying varnish? Do I need to sand edges? This is my first gunpla
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Sep 11, 2014 22:27
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I finally finished my first gunpla  Not sure which one to do next, probably one that doesn't take like 12 hours
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Sep 17, 2014 14:00
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Shopping around for my 2nd gundam to build, which will likely be a Musha Gundam MK2, I found out there's a Tokugawa Ieyasu Dynasty Warriors gunpla. It's like 150 bucks in the secondary market though because it was limited edition 4 years ago. It has floral pattern decals for the inner armor. I am on model 2 and I have already found a white whale model I will probably never be able to justify the purchase for  Just give me all the samurai gundams. Give me every gunpla that has a sheathable sword or a naginata that isn't made out of energy or some poo poo.
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Sep 18, 2014 12:44
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I cannot for the life of me decide between the Musha and the Musha Mk2. I mean I know I want them both eventually, and that Ieyasu Tokugawa golden musha gundam is going to be my chase model for a while, but I dunno which I want first. Cannot justify 2 50-dollar models in the same purchase... yet
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Sep 19, 2014 17:21
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TaurusOxford posted:Progress on what i've been working on: edit: at the risk of sounding like some knowledgeless doofus... Checking in from the miniatures crowd. What topcoat are you using? Also gently caress Pledge. Get yourself a nice gloss coat like Krylon or Testors Glosscote for actual protection, and use Dullcote or some airbrushed whatever you want for the actual finish, and that poo poo will be durable as heck signalnoise fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Sep 22, 2014 |
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Sep 22, 2014 21:12
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I'll warn you ahead of time that this is potentially  levels of prep.TaurusOxford posted:It's kinda hard to prime when I have to hand-paint everything. I don't have an airbrush. Vallejo Surface Primer is my recommendation. I use it through an airbrush, but it goes on with a regular brush just fine. It is some kind of urethane and when you use it you'll see it has kind of a shrinking effect where you put it on and it clings tightly to maintain detail. It's not all that expensive either. For the best possible adhesion for paint, don't handle anything with your bare hands. Oil from your skin can make it more difficult for paint to adhere to the surface. Because of that you'll also want to wash your parts in warm soapy water to get rid of any oil that might be on the stuff. Many miniatures painters stick their minis to cork or something like that so they don't have to touch the miniature directly. I use nitrile gloves. quote:Mr. Hobby - Mr. Super Clear Flat. I recommend you experiment with sprays that are intended to be more durable than a model or miniature needs. Wargamers protect their miniatures with poo poo that is designed to stand up to constant rubbing against foam and manipulation by hand, but we tend not to have much in the way of moving parts. I think there's a solid middle ground somewhere, but the Best Practice is to first coat with gloss for protection, then go back over with the desired finish. This is what I've learned from painting miniatures, and my paint jobs might not be perfect but they're drat durable. I'm new to gunpla but I'll be fully painting an HG for my next model. If you want I can take a bit of sprue and paint it up and show you what kind of durability you can expect from what I just wrote. BlitzBlast posted:I can't say I've ever heard anyone refer to Krylon's stuff as "nice". From my memory, SPECIFICALLY Krylon's gloss clearcoat is "nice" in that it's very durable.
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Sep 22, 2014 21:48
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In that case I'd just say go to Michael's or Hobby Lobby and pick up some Glosscote and Dullcote. Or, you know, wait a while before you touch your paint.
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Sep 22, 2014 22:08
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Where do people get display printouts and poo poo for things like this http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-HGBC-Build-Custom/dp/B00F04QR8K/ or the little stands that go in the bigger bases like museum info plates? My handwriting sucksVahtooch posted:I do really love how with each successive Astray the design process seems to be "Let's give it another sword. No wait, two. No wait... LETS MAKE IT SUPER POINTY!" It makes me so happy. I really need to pick up one of the Red Frame MG's, either the Sengoku or the one where the backpack turns into a huge bow thing. I got both, haven't built the Sengoku yet but the giant bowsword jetpack thing is a massive unwieldy pain in the rear end and it's hard to make it look really cool in my opinion
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Sep 24, 2014 12:30
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I use this guy on mine and it works good for 5 PSI increments or sohttp://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-R37121-600-VS-4-Inch-Regulator-Black/dp/B0057D8LMY/
signalnoise fucked around with this message at 12:42 on Sep 25, 2014 |
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Sep 25, 2014 12:35
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I don't know if you guys have been using actual paint brushes to apply your polish, but I'm experimenting with gear to make it easy for me to make perfectly clean, perfectly lined models for a start. I got my flush cutters and xacto, but I still feel like I need to sand down sprue nubs to get them perfectly flat, and that comes with scuff marks. Pledge to the rescue, as I've been told. The tip here that I've got if you care is gently caress using a brush for this stuff if you aren't applying it on top of paint. If you're applying Pledge Future directly to plastic for the purpose of hiding scuff marks, or for prepping a decal space, or whatever you'd apply it directly to the plastic for, you can use an acrylic paint marker. I am using a Montana empty acrylic paint marker. You can find them on Dick Blick or wherever for like 3-5 bucks each. Fill up the marker, press it a few times like you would do with a Gundam marker, and then there's your Pledge Future marker. You can also use this of course with other colors of actual acrylic paint. The reason I'd say don't use this to apply polish to painted or decal'd spots is because the marker nib can be kinda rough on unprotected paint jobs, so I'll be using protective spray coats for that. Anyways thought I'd share. Next I'll be trying tiny chisel tip markers with dye ink for panel lining, because using pens is getting annoying. The best way I've come up with to panel line so far is to brush a particular ink (Didi's Magic Ink) which is really low viscosity but is highly saturated just slopping it all over a detailed area, and then quickly wiping it off with a shop towel. It leaves very thin panel lines and no discoloration to the rest of the panels if you don't wait a long time to do it. Dye-based alcohol inks might be better though. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Sep 30, 2014 |
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Sep 30, 2014 16:06
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Is there a Gundam AGE-1R Razor kit out there for the MG AGE Normal? Or is that HG only?
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Sep 30, 2014 22:35
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What grit do you guys use on your sandpapers
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Oct 1, 2014 14:11
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Two broken pieces in two days. Fortunately just HG kits but still very frustrating.
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Oct 3, 2014 03:18
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Yalborap posted:So here's a question. Trying to get the question right. You've panel lined the bare model and you want something to protect the panel lining? What kind of finish do you want?
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Oct 3, 2014 12:53
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Yalborap posted:Yeah, that's correct. I was wanting a simple matte finish, just to make it look a little less "cheap plastic toy", but I know different paints and inks and stuff can be weird with eachother. Well, whatever finish you put on, it's not going to be the same as the bare plastic, so you'll want to do it over all of the armor pieces. I dunno how much that appeals to you. If you are willing to go through the work, I swear by this stuff for a matte topcoat:  Also known as dullcote, not to be confused with glosscote which is the glossy version which is protective as hell but will make your models look glossy as fuuuuuuuuuuck
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Oct 3, 2014 13:04
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peeNamaste posted:I have been taking my sweet time on my HGUC RX-78-2. It's taking forever to get this thing to look good. The seams are ridiculous, and everywhere. I think I'm almost there though. Chest needs another coat of blue, and then I have to paint his shield, and he'll be ready for panel lining and weathering. I don't have a work in progress pic at the moment. Not a video but you might learn something from this http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1103#post428029688 http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1107#post428331693
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Oct 3, 2014 22:15
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How do you guys deal with broken parts? I snapped something on the very first piece of an bandai HG evangelion model and I'm irritated that I have all this model to build and one broken piece that will be hosed up forever. Is the kit just never going to be whole or is there a way I can get a replacement piece?
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Oct 5, 2014 01:55
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Bimmi posted:Depends on the part and the nature of the break, really. A detailed description or photo would help. It was a calf. I put it together wrong, and while trying to pull it apart, the top end of one of the plates snapped. Then as I was trying to pull out the rest, the peg holding it together broke off in the hole, taking more of it with it. It's in 3 pieces now, both snapped and bent. It's beyond repair.
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Oct 5, 2014 03:16
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peeNamaste posted:Speaking of weathering, does anyone have a good video demonstrating some good weathering techniques? Preferably with a host that is sub 400 lbs and sans speech impediment? I used Tamiya weather master on my last kit, and while I liked the results, I feel like it's really only good for dirt and soot and stuff, not for an actually weathered metal/worn paint look. I forgot to ask this before What are you currently using for weathering, just the Tamiya kit? There's a world of weathering powders out there, and tons that work for just making something look like the paint's worn. As far as I can tell, too, the Tamiya weathering brush is just a fancy eyeshadow applicator. If you're interested in trying out other powders, Vallejo and Secret Weapon Miniatures both make great stuff. You'll want a pigment fixer though, or it'll just wear off over time.  That's just an all-purple paint job with metal and rust pigment applied. Is that the kind of worn paint you're looking for, or do you want more of a chipped look?
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Oct 5, 2014 14:58
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peeNamaste posted:That looks awesome! Thanks. http://www.miniaturemarket.com/catalog/product/view/id/29515/s/swmwp1007/ That is what I used. You might want to get a tiny collection of different pigments that work together so you can blend and what not. Pigment fixer is what's used to make sure the pigment doesn't fade. If you put a regular top coat on it before "fixing" the pigment, it'll blend together and you'll lose the dusty look that pigments can give you. In other words it will just end up looking like paint instead of weathering. You can use isopropyl as a fixer, or you can buy pigment fixer. I bought some pigment fixer and I spray it on with an airbrush so I don't smudge anything, but in the picture I showed you I didn't really care about that so it's kind of a bad example. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Od79Po7PP-g There's a video from the Secret Weapon people that is pretty good for 7 minutes. Anyways pigments are fun, again Vallejo and Secret Weapon make tons of different colors. I like using them for soot, rust, and worn paint, because that's super easy to do. But if you have other ideas you can easily find purple, blue, green, and other colors of pigments for interesting things. For example I think it'd be cool to use some green pigment for object sourced lighting from eyes and chest beams and whatnot. Also always try out pigments on a bit of sprue or something like that to see how it looks when applied. That metallic pigment for example looks black in the container.
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Oct 5, 2014 19:49
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Do you guys use plastic glue to hold your non-moving parts together? I'm already starting to do this. These things are so fragile and loose sometimes it's kind of ridiculous.
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Oct 5, 2014 22:43
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I probably should not have chosen a MG as my first model to dress to the nines
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Oct 7, 2014 04:11
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Please feel free to tell me I don't know what I'm doing and that this has already been explored, but if you do, tell me why this is bad. So further applying my miniatures tool kit to gunpla, I have this thing: http://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Citadel-Mouldline-Remover  Here's a more generic one for a little less money: http://www.micromark.com/seam-scraper,7547.html Now I'm not advocating you buy from Games Workshop necessarily, as there are other similar items as I linked above. What this is good for is cleaning up the rough edge left by snipping parts off the sprue flush with the part you're trying to remove using some flush cutters by Xuron or whoever. I have found that snipping away from the piece I'm aiming at and then cutting the rest with a hobby knife, I'm more likely than I'd prefer to cut away more plastic than I intend. Sanding down a nub gives me a similar problem and is also a pain in the rear end. This tool is essentially just a piece of rectangular or triangular steel with hard corners that are capable of scraping tiny amounts of plastic away. Using a seam scraper or moldline remover, I can scrape away the offending bit of plastic with minimal damage to the rest of the piece, and because it isn't a blade, it's safe to use near detail. Since it's not a blade, I can't accidentally cut into something I don't mean to. It also makes the whole process safer and allows me to use a paring motion without risk of cutting into my thumb. Didn't see this in any suggested tool areas, but I'd like your thoughts on it.
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Oct 7, 2014 18:03
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I guess? I mean I'm using Bandai kits and I still have to cut things off of sprues. Also no sandpaper I've tried has matched the finish of the bare plastic.
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Oct 7, 2014 18:08
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EthanSteele posted:Some pictures of its results on kits would help a lot. I'll see if I can't get a good before/after
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Oct 7, 2014 19:26
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signalnoise posted:I'll see if I can't get a good before/after Parts  Clipped from sprue  Cleaned by seam remover  It could stand to see a little sanding and paint but I would say that using this tool is a hell of a lot better than a hobby knife, at least for me. As for grinding down a stump with 400 grit sandpaper, I guess I'm just not gunpla hobbyist enough for that. But if that's the way you wanna roll then go for it.
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Oct 7, 2014 19:43
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BlitzBlast posted:Honestly it kind of just looks like you used a hobby knife. Maybe you just need to use a different blade from the standard #11? The problem I have with a hobby knife as opposed to this tool is that the hobby knife can too easily take too much plastic off, you can't handle it the same way due to safety, and if you slip with a hobby knife you can cut things you don't mean to. I am not saying this is a replacement for sanding and polishing though, I'm saying it might be a tool to consider as a better way to do what you'd normally do with a hobby knife. Really the reason I'm not polishing is because I intend to paint my stuff anyways. What blade would you suggest though
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Oct 7, 2014 20:03
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Fauxtool posted:you should be scraping with the blade at slightly above 90 degrees, there is no way to cut into a model if you are using it correctly Like, perpendicular to the surface you're scraping?
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Oct 7, 2014 20:06
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Yeah from what I'm hearing about proper scraping technique with the hobby knife, this tool I'm using is doing exactly the same thing except it's not a blade so it's idiot proof/takes really no skill and is designed for the job instead of multipurpose. Something neat to have in your kit but not revolutionary. I learned something today anyways 
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Oct 7, 2014 20:18
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Yeah I am used to tiny metal models, so big figures made of plastic is a new thing for me to learn. My collection of poo poo I don't use is rather massive too I must admit. Also I too have a massive bag of pipettes for no good reason
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Oct 7, 2014 20:29
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So you guys spray your parts with them still on the sprues??
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Oct 11, 2014 21:21
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Yeah I'm gonna have a time with this MG.....
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Oct 11, 2014 21:57
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Just did a very quick wishlist pass on 1999.co.jp and... goddamn there are a lot of models I think look cool. More than I figured when I was just looking at MG's.
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Oct 12, 2014 13:48
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Neddy Seagoon posted:I'm happy with HG kits, just because the MG's take up more room. That said, I'm probably going to get the new Kotobukiya-made 1/100 Tsugumori because I'm a sucker for Tsutomu Nihei's stuff and a giant robot is just gravy It's just such a massive trade-off to me. HG kits are less poseable, but take up less room and if I gently caress up on one I'm not out 35-?? bucks. I have actually considered getting multiple HG Titus's just because they're 13 dollars and I can test out how different paints will look on them. On the other hand MG's are just so much cooler! Feedback question: Painting up this Strike MG in a purple/tan scheme. Of course this doesn't have all the panels colored but that takes too long and this is just my planning phase.  Going with that tan color for all the previously pink areas, purples instead of reds and magentas. I plan to candy coat the purples to make them pop. Any ideas for specific areas to draw attention with color, other than like making the eyes green? I was planning to paint the vents some color and have the back of the vents weathered metallic to make them look worn on the inside but I can't think of what color to make the vents other than I guess just keeping the stock dark grey. Original for comparison 
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Oct 12, 2014 14:01
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Philthy posted:1/144 are just a nightmare for me to paint. Ive been working on my Doven Wolf for almost a month (Weekends) and it's just so much more intricate to mask everything so small compared to MG. MG took me a weekend, this HG is fuccccccccccck. I'm really new to air brushing, so I hope I can just get this down better. Are you airbrushing a constructed model?
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Oct 12, 2014 20:39
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EthanSteele posted:Yeah you just sand it till it's gone with no regard of marks or scratches, painting rules. I'm really, really tempted to just buy a bunch more empty paint markers. That way I could prime and airbrush, clip, and then use a marker with my own chosen paint to go over the nub. I think I need to do this. It's more expensive than gundam markers, but... gently caress gundam markers.
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Oct 13, 2014 21:29
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 07:10 |
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MJP posted:Are the paint markers one-shot items? Because that sounds really, really useful for my situation - shave the nub, paint over, move on with life. Nah. Here's a link. http://www.dickblick.com/products/montana-acrylic-markers/ Go for the empty markers and pay attention to the nib type so you don't get some massive marker tip. I just ordered a bunch. Here's a video I made of one of these markers being tested, painting BattleZones terrain. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZ4QI1vSJV0%5C And here's the result in a picture:  Basically what you do is you get the marker, you remove the nib holder assembly, and what you've got is a container with an agitator rattle can ball in it. You fill up the marker with paint about 60-70% of the way up with paint that should be like... airbrush consistency. Badger's Minitaire line is great for this. Reassemble the marker and it works pretty much like a gundam marker. You have to pump it a few times to get the paint up into the nib, and if you apply it too hard, the nib is generally rough enough to gently caress up unprotected paint. But you, you're smart and you topcoated. This will work with Pledge Future, too, straight up. I've tried it. It's not the greatest at covering up sanding marks, and I can't really think of a use for it because if I'm topcoating paint with it, that means I'm using a marker on unprotected paint. I suppose it would be useful if you topcoated matte and you wanted to use a marker to pick out and re-gloss some areas. And of course, if you're coloring your Gundam with a marker, and you don't have airbrush-thin acrylic paint lying around, you can always thin it with Pledge and water (or at least I think that's true, I wouldn't really know because I buy Vallejo airbrush thinner). When the marker's all used up, just wash it out, replace the nib (they're cheap), and there you have a new marker! Remember also to label your markers with the color they are. I am a compulsive experimenter so if you get any ideas let me know and I'll try them out. I recently bought some Montana Gold acrylic spraypaint to try out on a kit, and I'll see how that works out. Something tells me it might go on a little thick, but if nothing else I got 400ml of good paint for 7ish bucks, which ain't bad. Bimmi posted:Why not use a detail brush instead? Do-it-yourself paint markers sound to me like a solution in search of a problem. Paint markers are for people who know exactly what colors they're going to need, they'll need them on more than one occasion, for repeated short periods of time, and they don't want paint drying out on a palette or to deal with washing out a brush. Consider the act of priming and airbrushing/spraypainting a kit on the sprue. You have your palette set up and are ready to clip, cut, sand, and cover over the spot with paint, repeatedly, with different colors. You could use your brush, wash it out, and repeat, or you could have a few markers right there ready to go that don't need washing and won't dry out. You also front-load the preparation so you can do this for 5 minutes without having to pull out your paints, palette, and water cup only to put it back 5 minutes later. Don't get me wrong, I think brushes are great and they're very versatile and they would do the job handily, if you're willing to put up with the honestly very minor setup. I have brushes, I use brushes, and I will be using brushes for particular things with gundams. Paint markers are not part of a basic kit, but as I've shown before with the mold line remover, I'm not opposed to single-purpose items. This isn't an issue of whether a paintbrush or a marker is a better tool, it's an issue of whether or not you personally think it's worth using for you. And it's definitely not the way of the person who wants to do things for less money. Pay no attention to the things I buy if you want to spend less money. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Oct 13, 2014 |
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Oct 13, 2014 22:35
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