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Goldaline
Dec 21, 2006

my dear

GFBeach posted:

Unless you're specifically going for a big and bulky helmet I would think 6mm would be plenty!

So I've been working on and off on a Byleth (male) costume from Fire Emblem: Three Houses and my general process has been to try making prototypes of everything out of 6mm floor mats before ordering better (i.e. smooth on both sides) foam. The cutting and assembly has gone well enough, but I'm running into two problems that are linked:

1) I'm using DAP Weldwood contact cement because that's what was most easily available, and while I can attach curved seams well enough, almost every curved seam I've done ends up splitting a little as I let the piece set overnight. I'm applying two coats to each part of the seam and letting them dry before putting them together. I've been able to patch things in with kwik-seal filler, but I get the impression I'm having to lean on this stuff more than is considered normal. Which leads to...

2) As part of tidying up the split seams I'm hitting them with a power sander before applying kwik-seal. Using a power sander I start with 80 grit and work my way up to 320 grit, go over the affected areas with a heat gun to seal the foam, apply the heat seal, but after applying plasti-dip the resulting surface still looks awful and feels really rough. I've put on about four (light) coats of plasti-dip and it's not filling in the surface and evening things out.

I'm not terribly frustrated because these are test pieces destined for the garbage once I get the process right, but I'd like to figure out what I did wrong. Am I using too much glue? Should I have wet sanded with 320 grit (or higher)? With plasti-dip, should I go heavier on the individual coats?

Are you cutting the foam at the seams on a bevel? I find anticipating the angle the curve is going to force the foam into and cutting the edge at something close to this alleviates a lot of the stress that ends up pulling the seam apart. As for plasti-dip---are you working in cold weather? Warming the cans up? Cold plasti-dip sprays unevenly and can give you a 'pitted' surface. I do sand up to 600 though. Usually 400 and 600 I wet sand. **edited to add: I recommend *starting* with 220 sand paper, anything rougher just rips up the foam and makes it harder to get smooth.

(signed, someone that had to make Ferdinand von Aegir's whole-rear end leg armor)

Goldaline fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Mar 18, 2020

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GFBeach
Jul 6, 2005

Surrounded by wierdos

Goldaline posted:

Are you cutting the foam at the seams on a bevel? I find anticipating the angle the curve is going to force the foam into and cutting the edge at something close to this alleviates a lot of the stress that ends up pulling the seam apart. As for plasti-dip---are you working in cold weather? Warming the cans up? Cold plasti-dip sprays unevenly and can give you a 'pitted' surface. I do sand up to 600 though. Usually 400 and 600 I wet sand. **edited to add: I recommend *starting* with 220 sand paper, anything rougher just rips up the foam and makes it harder to get smooth.

(signed, someone that had to make Ferdinand von Aegir's whole-rear end leg armor)

These are all good tips! I've tried my best to not cut the foam at a bevel; probably made a couple of goofs here and there, but I know that'd exacerbate the problem. It's not particularly cold outside (~60F) and I've tried warmed up the plasti-dip prior to application; between that and adjusting the distance at which I spray, I got much smoother results on subsequent test pieces even with scrap/floor mat foam. Thanks for the input on sandpaper types; I'm only using low-grit when I need to remove material (effectively carving out a Sword of the Creator's a bitch), and yeah, 220 sounds like a good starting point for smoothing.

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011



I still have a bunch of work with the face mask, filling the seams and final glue/positioning the crest before primer and paint. I'm happy so far for this being my first large scale armor build.

The only thing I'm having issues with is figuring out what to use for the mesh on the face mask. I was just thinking about wandering around Lowes until I found something. Maybe chicken wire or some type of dry wall repair mesh.

Rythe fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Mar 23, 2020

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

The seams need a bit of work but I'm super happy with this. Need to add some foam inside to make it fit more stable and find some mesh for the facemask. This is my first large scale foam work.

Kwanzaa Quickie
Nov 4, 2009

Rythe posted:

The seams need a bit of work but I'm super happy with this. Need to add some foam inside to make it fit more stable and find some mesh for the facemask. This is my first large scale foam work.



Maybe some window screen for the mesh?

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011



That's what I just did today and I like the look. Now somebody talk to me about rub and buff paint. I want this armor to still shine but not have one solid color and I have seen amazing work with the rub and buff.

Goldaline
Dec 21, 2006

my dear

Rythe posted:


That's what I just did today and I like the look. Now somebody talk to me about rub and buff paint. I want this armor to still shine but not have one solid color and I have seen amazing work with the rub and buff.

The silver is the easiest to use out of them. The gold/bronze can be finicky. Sometimes they don't like to stick if the surface is *too* smooth. Because they are wax based they also don't like to stick if the room is too cold. I had to use a space heater in my studio while I did Ferdie's legs (which are all rub-n-buff, couldn't use spray paint for risk of it cracking as I moved) You can use brown/black shoe polish for a really nice weathering effect. Use a soft, clean cloth to apply and buff. You'll need a lot less than you think (I used about 1.25 of those small tubes for all of Ferdinand)

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

I used plasti dip as my primer and a metallic aluminum spray paint over that. Think I would have a issue using rub and buff over that?

I was thinking the silver might make my costume look more like metal but im not sure how good it will look. I'll have to get a tube and maybe try a test batch of foam.

Goldaline
Dec 21, 2006

my dear

Rythe posted:

I used plasti dip as my primer and a metallic aluminum spray paint over that. Think I would have a issue using rub and buff over that?

I was thinking the silver might make my costume look more like metal but im not sure how good it will look. I'll have to get a tube and maybe try a test batch of foam.

You'll have to try. Worst case it's already silver at least lol. I normally apply the rub 'n buff right over the plastidip, it sticks well to to that. Had the hardest time getting it to stick properly to all my resin pieces this last go around, but it's great on foam/plastidip.


Anyway my new projects are Keaton from Fire Emblem Fates to level up my wigs and fur work, and Miles Edgeworth from Ace Attorney to give me an excuse to finally fully tailor a suit. And I'm only vaguely employed at the moment so I've got all the time in the world to padstitch my heart out.

GFBeach
Jul 6, 2005

Surrounded by wierdos

Goldaline posted:

You'll have to try. Worst case it's already silver at least lol. I normally apply the rub 'n buff right over the plastidip, it sticks well to to that. Had the hardest time getting it to stick properly to all my resin pieces this last go around, but it's great on foam/plastidip.

Have you tried using the Ebony color of rub 'n buff before? I think that might work well on the torso/shoulder armor for Byleth, but I can't find any pictures of people using it on plastidip'd EVA foam.

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

I got some silver rub and buff and tested it on a piece of primed and silver spray painted foam using a soft cloth and it looks amazing. The two silver colors mix really well to give a great true metallic finish and the shine is brilliant. The test patch is no longer one dimensional and the whole armor should look great once done.

This stuff applies super easily and doesn't take much effort to make it look amazing. I really don't think I'm going to even worry about weathering after all this.


The left side is just primed and painted, the middle is rub and buff with a soft cloth and the right side is using a soft bristle brush.

GFBeach
Jul 6, 2005

Surrounded by wierdos
Yeah, I've heard and seen some examples (including your own) of Rub 'n Buff working really well for metallic finishes! Gonna give that a whirl on the armor pieces, following silver areas with a wash of diluted black acrylic for added detail and definition.

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

GFBeach posted:

Yeah, I've heard and seen some examples (including your own) of Rub 'n Buff working really well for metallic finishes! Gonna give that a whirl on the armor pieces, following silver areas with a wash of diluted black acrylic for added detail and definition.

What does the wash of diluted black do for the armor detail?

my cat is norris
Mar 11, 2010

#onecallcat

It adds depth and variation to the final result so that the overall look is more realistic, basically.

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

Do you dilute with water then paint and wipe away? Any technique that adds depth and realism I am very happy to learn.

my cat is norris
Mar 11, 2010

#onecallcat

https://youtu.be/5imbwoQuR_M

A quick five minute intro!

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

That's a pretty neat and simple trick. I think in the long run I'll stick to the classic, shiny armor Shredder with your rub and buff for realism.

Though with the Corona virus who knows if the August Con will even happen.

GFBeach
Jul 6, 2005

Surrounded by wierdos
Figured I'd actually post some progress shots for once instead of asking a zillion questions. :v:



I started working on the Sword of the Creator back in January (leftmost pic) and picked it back up today to do some more work refining/smoothing the edges. This was done with 3 layers of 6mm foam from a cheap mat from Harbor Freight, with a 6mm MDF core in a depression in the center layer to make it not... well... floppy. I'dve sooner used some sort of metal rod since the MDF still gives a little bit under gravity, but that circular cutout in the hilt made that tricky. I did my best earlier to grind down the diamond plate pattern on the floor mat but, clearly, some parts of the layers didn't bond properly which is why it's delaminated in some areas. I expected to royally screw up my first attempt at this as it's my first time really working with EVA foam, but I'm surprised just how forgiving and malleable the material is. I was worried that using 80 grit sandpaper to bevel down the sword edge would have mangled it too much but going over it with 220 then 400 grit sandpaper by hand made things smooth out considerably after heat treating. If the finish doesn't come out perfectly smooth then that's okay, because the sword is made of bone :ssh: . I'll be continuing on with this test piece for a little longer, particularly to try out some painting stuff, but I've already got a few rolls of TNT Cosplay foam for the final version once I'm satisfied with my process.

GFBeach fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Mar 30, 2020

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

The contouring on your weapon is well done and I like it, can't wait to see the finally project. The weapons people can craft are amazing and ridiculously detailed.

Edit: should I seal my rub and buffed armor with a spray enamel?

Rythe fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Mar 30, 2020

Goldaline
Dec 21, 2006

my dear

GFBeach posted:

Have you tried using the Ebony color of rub 'n buff before? I think that might work well on the torso/shoulder armor for Byleth, but I can't find any pictures of people using it on plastidip'd EVA foam.

No, haven't tried, but I bet it'd be a nice finish, maybe hit some edges/highlights with pewter for definition? I've mostly seen people doing vinyl or matte coated pleather stretched over foam for Byleth's armor pieces?

And yeah weathering your metallic stuff makes it look so much less fake and gives everything nice definition. Like I said, you can use shoe polish on rub 'n buff, just rub it into the cracks and crevices and wipe excess away, or on painted pieces I'll do a watered down black/brown acrylic mix, kinda dry brush it in and wipe away.

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011



Got a nice coat of rub and buff and I'm ridiculously happy with the way it looks.


Now to do the rest.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

This Humble Bundle is a shitload of cosplay-related ebooks.

The "Foamsmith" books by Bill Doran (Punished Props) are worth the price of admission all by themselves in my opinion, and there are multiple payment tiers that add new books as you pay more. The highest tier is still only a $20 bill. I'll probably never even look at the sewing ones, but I'm gonna buy the whole lot anyway.

Bees on Wheat
Jul 18, 2007

I've never been happy



QUAIL DIVISION
Buglord

Acid Reflux posted:

This Humble Bundle is a shitload of cosplay-related ebooks.

The "Foamsmith" books by Bill Doran (Punished Props) are worth the price of admission all by themselves in my opinion, and there are multiple payment tiers that add new books as you pay more. The highest tier is still only a $20 bill. I'll probably never even look at the sewing ones, but I'm gonna buy the whole lot anyway.

Welp. There goes my :20bux:

I already have the basics of sewing down but it never hurts to have more books (that I will honestly probably never read). Foam armor and prop-making sounds pretty cool, even if none of my planned costumes have any of those elements. Mostly though, I'm hoping for some good info in the wig-styling books. Someone tell me how to get perfect bishounen bangs already! :gonk:

E: okay even if I never actually use any of this information, there are some gorgeous loving pictures in The Art of Extreme Wig Styling. Money well-spent. :monocle:

Bees on Wheat fucked around with this message at 04:22 on May 29, 2020

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

DIY Secret Santa signups are now open!

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3941260

Bees on Wheat
Jul 18, 2007

I've never been happy



QUAIL DIVISION
Buglord
Thanks for bumping the thread and reminding me I never used any of those books.. :sigh:

deoju
Jul 11, 2004

All the pieces matter.
Nap Ghost
It's not exactly cosplay, but Pendleton sells the Dude's sweater from the Big Lebowski. They made the original in the seventies, and reverse engineered their own sweater to replicate it. It's kind of expensive, but I had to have one. It's quite warm, so much so that I have no idea how Bridges could wear it while filming in Southern California.

https://www.pendleton-usa.com/the-orginal-westerley-cardigan.html

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


I don't know how many of you this affects, but Swarovski has decided to stop selling crystals and beads to wholesalers.

quote:

In an article written by Bloomberg in August, Buchbauer was quoted as saying: “It’s very painful for everybody, but we have to take the steps that we should have taken years ago.

“Swarovski crystals on a 10-euro T-shirt don’t add to our profitability and hurt our brand image.”

It is understood that Swarovski will continue to supply its crystals to a very select number of partners operating in the high-end and luxury apparel and accessories sectors only.

People on my Twitter list are suggesting switching to Preciosa, for the form factors they make, anyway.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Hello Hobbyists and Crafters of all sorts! Our friends from Creative Convention are visiting with their Travelling Showcase of Wonders and they want to see all the cool and fantastic things you've been working on! Go show them off and admire the handiwork of other talented goons!

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3946255

~Coxy
Dec 9, 2003

R.I.P. Inter-OS Sass - b.2000AD d.2003AD

I expect that my fridge is going to become a collector's item now.

CzarChasm
Mar 14, 2009

I don't like it when you're watching me eat.
Posted these in the CC crossover circus, but this is a good place too.

Face shield for a Shredded costume.




Need to finish securing the strap to the other side, and then work on the helmet, but it's getting somewhere.

BigRed0427
Mar 23, 2007

There's no one I'd rather be than me.

Do we have anyone in here who likes to make cosplay of original characters?

Like, I'm currently working on a cyberpunk inspired costume. It was something the mood just struck me for. Now, I already bought a bunch of the base stuff for a costume. Im hoping to have it here next week so I can put it together and figure out what the next parts are going to be.

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

CzarChasm posted:

Posted these in the CC crossover circus, but this is a good place too.

Face shield for a Shredded costume.




Need to finish securing the strap to the other side, and then work on the helmet, but it's getting somewhere.

That is a nice one, are you free handing the helmet or working off a pattern? I built my first foam helmet a year agoand it was the shredder from the movie, it has seems showing but I love it.

CzarChasm
Mar 14, 2009

I don't like it when you're watching me eat.

Rythe posted:

That is a nice one, are you free handing the helmet or working off a pattern? I built my first foam helmet a year agoand it was the shredder from the movie, it has seems showing but I love it.

My first go on the helmet was freehand, using a baseball cap as kind of inspiration, but it came out a bit too small, so I'll have to go again. It's all a learning curve.

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

Yeah it is, I want redo mine to hide the seams but than I remember all the time I put into it already and I really don't want to.

On the plus side I learned better dremel usage and how to better blend the seams together with the initial build.

PurpleButterfly
Nov 5, 2012

BigRed0427 posted:

Do we have anyone in here who likes to make cosplay of original characters?

Like, I'm currently working on a cyberpunk inspired costume. It was something the mood just struck me for. Now, I already bought a bunch of the base stuff for a costume. Im hoping to have it here next week so I can put it together and figure out what the next parts are going to be.

My Jedi and Mando are technically OCs :haw: Seriously, though, I do have a costume based on an original character from some short stories I've written. I don’t have a picture I can post immediately, but it’s a handmade lime green sundress with magenta borders at the hem and armholes, plus matching shoes (sneakers or sandals; there have been a few incarnations over the years), bandana, necklace, and earrings. I'll have to come back and add a a picture later.

My dream costume is an interpretation of my custom player character from a game I play (giant poofy lavender ballgown, matching wings, and a crown).

Organza Quiz
Nov 7, 2009


Hello cosplay folks! Since most people read the forums from bookmarks and don't look at subforums these days, just popping in here to say I've (re)started a needle felting thread over here. It has a lot of potential applications for cosplay especially for characters who have animal companions or other little mascots.

neogeo0823
Jul 4, 2007

NO THAT'S NOT ME!!

Does anyone have any good sources or ideas for replicating the functionality of the foot pad that I've seen on a bunch of digitigrade stilts? This is what I'm talking about. I don't need it to be exactly that, bit I'd like to be able to replicate the curved foot at least somewhat closely, and I'm looking for what sort of grippy rubber that is on the bottom. And of course, it has to be able to hold my weight. So far, the best idea I could think up was black iron pipe fittings. Use a T-junction and a 45 degree bend to get each end of the foot, then attach floor flanges and bolt a piece of metal to those, then attach whatever the material is. Do you guys think that would work? Or should I go a different route?

nielsm
Jun 1, 2009



My first choice would probably be wood for the main structural part. Perhaps attaching a thin metal plate on the sole itself.

neogeo0823
Jul 4, 2007

NO THAT'S NOT ME!!

nielsm posted:

My first choice would probably be wood for the main structural part. Perhaps attaching a thin metal plate on the sole itself.

Yeah, I'll give that route a shot. the kinda-tough thing is going to be scaling the piece properly, I think. I have no official dimensions to work from.

Relatedly, I found this stuff as a possible rubber layer for the bottom of the foot. I haven't ordered it yet. Anyone have any experience with anything similar? It seems like it should do the trick.

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neogeo0823
Jul 4, 2007

NO THAT'S NOT ME!!

Sorry to sorta double post, but does anyone have a good source for expanded pvc? I'm looking for a sheet that's ~12in x 12in, and at least 3/16in(.1875) thick. I can order some in to the local Lowes, but it'll take a week as-is and I wanna shop around to compare prices. Similarly, I'm also looking for a neoprene sheet, but around 12in x 24in in size. Same deal, I can order it in via Lowes, but I want to look at options. I'm mainly asking because I don't know which online retailers are reputable, and I'm pretty sure no one local carries anything of this stuff.

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