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I spring for that fancy red meguiars red cone thing for the drill. Unless it is user error which is very possible it is fall apart garbage. However been using some tire gel from them and it holds up great very nice but klidgt to apply but worth the results (either of these could be mothers as well it’s been a long day and I’m not home)
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Oct 29, 2021 01:53
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Motronic posted:A decent barrel brush is the closest I've come to "magic" here. It really makes the whole process so much easier. I bought this set: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779HTLD7 Back when it was ~$30. Decent enough for my use.
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Oct 29, 2021 02:37
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Motronic posted:A decent barrel brush is the closest I've come to "magic" here. It really makes the whole process so much easier. Buying an electric car probably counts as a magic bullet lol. Regen braking not generating dust is probably worth the price of admission alone.
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Oct 29, 2021 17:16
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Bob Mundon posted:Buying an electric car probably counts as a magic bullet lol. Regen braking not generating dust is probably worth the price of admission alone. That depends on how you define the problem. That solves the problem of "I hate cleaning brake dust" but not "I hate cleaning brake dust from the car I have and love".
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Oct 29, 2021 18:09
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StormDrain posted:That depends on how you define the problem. That solves the problem of "I hate cleaning brake dust" but not "I hate cleaning brake dust from the car I have and love". The solution to that is "lol you should have paid for the ceramic brakes, you scrub"
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Oct 29, 2021 18:16
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KillHour posted:The solution to that is "lol you should have paid for the ceramic brakes, you scrub" Pfft. Tungsten Carbide brakes is where it's at for dustless braking.  Ballsy enough to have it with white calipers 
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Oct 29, 2021 18:33
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Bajaha posted:Pfft. Tungsten Carbide brakes is where it's at for dustless braking. Yeah yeah I know I'm an idiot for buying a BMW instead of a Porsche. I hear it from both Porsche fans and self-hating BMW fans.
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Oct 29, 2021 18:34
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I want to get my life to white brake caliper level
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Oct 29, 2021 19:25
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I have a typically (for the Midwest) rusty 1995 Acura Integra in my driveway that has not been driven in a long time. I want to sell it in the near future, so I need to get it looking presentable. I washed it this afternoon. I have these products and I am wondering what the optimum order of use (I put them in the order that I suspect they should be used): Some iron remover spray, don't remember what brand A Griot's clay bar (I would like to skip this if possible. I hate using a clay bar.) Meguair's Ultimate Compound Griot's polish, I can't remember which one Meguiar's Ceramic Spray Wax Meguiar's Ceramic Liquid Wax I have a Griot's polisher, one microfiber pad for it, and a bunch of foam pads of different stiffness levels. I really wanted to use the spray wax as I was drying a car, but I remembered an Ammo video saying not to apply that kind of stuff on paint that will be buffed in the near future. I realize there is no reason to use both ceramic wax types at the same time; I have the spray type for maintenance. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Oct 29, 2021 |
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Oct 29, 2021 21:23
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Order looks good. Clay's skippable if the paint doesn't feel excessively rough. Or even if it is rough, since you're planning to machine it and it's a somewhat-rusty 30-year-old car. In an ideal world you'd clay it, but in this particular situation...  Compound's skippable if the paint doesn't need major correction. The polish should handle minor flaws. YMMV with how much upkeep it's had in the driveway. Assuming we're talking the Ceramic Spray Wax (blue) and not the Ceramic Spray Detailer (green), use the spray wax and save yourself a bunch of time. If what you have is the spray detailer, use the liquid wax instead. The "detailer" won't have as much shine or longevity as the "wax" formulations. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Oct 31, 2021 |
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Oct 31, 2021 01:24
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imo definitely don't skip the clay but it's definitely a good idea to buy a synthetic clay instead.
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Oct 31, 2021 06:25
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I used the products in the order listed with one exception. My bottle of polish was separated and would not mix back together so I went and got a bottle of Meguiar's Ultimate Polish. The car looks as good as it can. The compound really woke up the paint, taking it from flat like a refrigerator to glossy and shiny. The newfound shininess did highlight the litany of small hail dents in the hood, but whatever. The claying wasn't as bad as I remember. The car is pretty small, so that helps. The other helpful factor was washing and doing iron removal, then taking a break, then claying. I usually force myself to clay right after washing. Washing and clay all in one shot seems to be just a little too much for my weak arms to handle all in one go. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Nov 1, 2021 |
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Nov 1, 2021 15:10
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BraveUlysses posted:imo definitely don't skip the clay but it's definitely a good idea to buy a synthetic clay instead.  because synthetic clay is a miracle. Drop it and rinse it off, it's big and easy to use... Regular claybars are almost pointless these days.
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Nov 2, 2021 19:47
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With synthetic do you just dunk it in the same soap bucket you use to wash? Seems like that might be a good time saver doing it during the wash.
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Nov 3, 2021 01:42
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Bob Mundon posted:With synthetic do you just dunk it in the same soap bucket you use to wash? Seems like that might be a good time saver doing it during the wash. its absolutely faster to do and you dont have to use a "lubricant" product, the soapy water provides great lubrication. but do make a fresh batch of soapy water, dont use the same water you used to wash the car. my process: fresh batch of soapy water, wash the wheels another fresh batch of soapy water, wash the whole car another fresh batch of soapy water, synthetic claybar dry it off polish/seal/wax
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Nov 3, 2021 04:00
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BraveUlysses posted:its absolutely faster to do and you dont have to use a "lubricant" product, the soapy water provides great lubrication. but do make a fresh batch of soapy water, dont use the same water you used to wash the car. Makes sense. This a good option, or is the rag company clay towel probably better whenever if comes back in stock. Adam's Clay Mitt - Medium Grade Clay Bar Infused Mitt | Car Detailing Glove Quickly Removes Debris from Your Paint, Glass, Wheels, & More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079Y8R62J/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_8MDHAKR1283JBDJBBAZR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Or The Rag Company - Ultra Clay Decontamination Towel - Effective Cleaning & Release of Paint Contaminants; Increase Wax and Sealant Bond; Enhance Gloss and Depth of Color; Fine Grade (12in. x 12in.) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JMBZRWN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2KFDFC5N3QAEQK229FP7
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Nov 3, 2021 19:52
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either are probably fine but personally i like the ergonomics of holding a foam one like griots offers: https://www.griotsgarage.com/brilliant-finish-synthetic-clay/ (probably also available on amazon) feels more substantial in your hand and most importantly, it holds a lot of soapy water which you can squeeze out right before starting on a new panel.
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Nov 3, 2021 23:14
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Any issues with marring or hazing at all? Sounds like some synthetic clays do. Which if you're prepping for correction not a huge deal, but if you're looking for something quick before protection kinda defeats the purpose.
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Nov 4, 2021 03:39
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I have a meth'd out project bike that was rattle canned black (with overspray onto things such as the fork tube). I don't have high hopes from removing it from the fairings (I'll be sourcing some cheap ones from AliExpress) but I'd like to get it off the bare metal frame at least. I was debating some kind of graffiti remover from the hardware store but I was wondering if there's a better option. Given the choice I'd prefer something that isn't incredibly toxic / bad to get on my hands, but I know everything will at least be highly flammable and not ideal to inhale.
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Nov 4, 2021 18:33
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MomJeans420 posted:I have a meth'd out project bike that was rattle canned black (with overspray onto things such as the fork tube). I don't have high hopes from removing it from the fairings (I'll be sourcing some cheap ones from AliExpress) but I'd like to get it off the bare metal frame at least. I was debating some kind of graffiti remover from the hardware store but I was wondering if there's a better option. Given the choice I'd prefer something that isn't incredibly toxic / bad to get on my hands, but I know everything will at least be highly flammable and not ideal to inhale. Why not sand it off?
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Nov 4, 2021 18:37
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Bob Mundon posted:Any issues with marring or hazing at all? Sounds like some synthetic clays do. Which if you're prepping for correction not a huge deal, but if you're looking for something quick before protection kinda defeats the purpose. i have not but my experience is only with the griots clays (im on my 2nd one now)
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Nov 5, 2021 03:57
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StormDrain posted:Why not sand it off? I tried that briefly with the only sand paper I had lying around (1000 or 2000 grit, I forget) and wasn't making much progress. I was worried I went lower grit then I'd have sanding marks so I thought it may be easier if some graffiti remover or something similar would just wipe it off. May have to resort to sanding as I'd prefer that to the really nasty stuff.
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Nov 5, 2021 20:54
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MomJeans420 posted:I tried that briefly with the only sand paper I had lying around (1000 or 2000 grit, I forget) and wasn't making much progress. I was worried I went lower grit then I'd have sanding marks so I thought it may be easier if some graffiti remover or something similar would just wipe it off. May have to resort to sanding as I'd prefer that to the really nasty stuff. Whats the goal, just leave it as bare metal, or paint it? Depending on the paint step I might sand it with 80-120 to 220-320 (epoxy primer) or 400 (before high build) to 600 (before basecoat). And whatever sanding marks you have come out by sanding further with a finer grit. I'd buy a pack of various grit and work my way down until it comes off easy then back up until it looks right.
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Nov 5, 2021 21:44
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StormDrain posted:Whats the goal, just leave it as bare metal, or paint it? ^^^^^ Nothing makes sanding take longer than starting at to high of a grit.
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Nov 7, 2021 18:45
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I just wanted to leave it as bare metal but I wasn't sure how the sanding marks would look and if it'd require too much time finishing it with a fine grit. Although I should emphasize this is a project bike that's had a very hard life so I think sanding marks on the frame is probably the least of my cosmetic worries. I'll pick up a variety pack from the parts store and give that a shot, thanks!
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Nov 8, 2021 19:43
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Kind of random question: how does everyone keep their microfibre towels organised? It’s easy if you have unique ones per task but I sure don’t.
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Nov 10, 2021 07:41
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I keep them in a laundry basket. Over time it has become pretty easy to spot the jankiest ones. They get used for wheel and tire, interior, and household cleaning. I keep the basket on the top shelf of my closet because my wife has no regard for the sanctity of pristine microfiber.
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Nov 10, 2021 16:17
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Red_Fred posted:Kind of random question: how does everyone keep their microfibre towels organised? It’s easy if you have unique ones per task but I sure don’t. I bought a huge pack from Costco and just fold them and stack them, I keep a bunch in my car cleaning caddy. The rest are in the closet. If one looks like poo poo it goes in the trash. At this rate I'll have to buy a new pack in 5 years.
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Nov 10, 2021 16:21
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I just realised I have 2 storage bins full of assorted boutique microfibres, but have been using the same 3-4 towels since covid.
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Nov 10, 2021 20:37
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I got to run a Rupes Big Foot and now I want to replace my little porter cable. Is there an in-between or do I just drop the $400 and not look back? Also used a wool/microfiber cutting pad. I was impressed. I've been using the HEX pads, but still had minor swirls with the PC buffer. These left a glass smooth finish.
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Nov 10, 2021 21:04
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This is "house detailing" I guess. We have two light fixtures in the kitchen that get coated in aerosol grease from cooking. Then dog hair somehow floats up to the ceiling and gets stuck in the adhesive grease coating. These two fixtures get FILTHY. Once a year I go up on a ladder and clean them. I take the glass surrounds off of each bulb (four per fixture) and clean them in the sink. Then I use melamine sponges to try to clean the metal fixture itself. This time I got the bright idea to take the fixtures down and clean them with our McCulloch steamer. This worked pretty well. The steam peeled a layer of grime off the metal parts like an onion skin. It was actually pretty satisfying to watch. The steam and heat also crinkled up the warning stickers that say not to use high wattage bulbs (I have LEDs in it). I pulled the stickers off but the steam didn't work well against the adhesive residue. I sprayed on some WD-40 and let it sit for a few minutes, then rubbed off what I could with a towel. When I blasted the fixtures with steam again the WD-40 dissolved into the remaining adhesive and grime and practically flew off the fixtures. If I was going to start over I would do a quick pass with WD-40 and a throwaway rag, then follow up with the steamer. It probably would have gone faster. I didn't take any before pictures, but here is a shot of the brush attachment from the steam cleaner when I was about 1/3 of the way through this process.  I appreciate my wife's efforts in the kitchen, but she really does need to start using a spatter screen. And I should probably figure out how to vent the fan from the over-range microwave to the outdoors. Steam is great for cleaning things.
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Nov 10, 2021 21:42
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the spyder posted:I got to run a Rupes Big Foot and now I want to replace my little porter cable. My advice is if you are going to get new pads too, go all in with the system. The Rupes pads are fantastic, and the Big Foot is balanced to use those pads specifically and makes the machine run smoothly. If you have a ton of pads to use still, I would probably either keep what you have or look at a Griot’s.
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Nov 11, 2021 16:19
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I think I'll do some Black Friday shopping. I can donate my existing buffer/pads to my brother or dad. With my shoulder constantly giving me problems now, a lighter and better balanced machine is priority. Knowing my luck I'll buy it, then outsource my detailing. lol
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Nov 11, 2021 19:59
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Using sandpaper to remove rattlecan paint - I should be wet sanding, not dry, right? Also, I bought some paper wrapped around a sponge which seemed like a good idea until I realized it makes it hard to reach areas without also sanding parts I don't want to sand, going to have to pick up some regular paper.
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Nov 12, 2021 20:28
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MomJeans420 posted:Using sandpaper to remove rattlecan paint - I should be wet sanding, not dry, right? Also, I bought some paper wrapped around a sponge which seemed like a good idea until I realized it makes it hard to reach areas without also sanding parts I don't want to sand, going to have to pick up some regular paper. Wetsanding will be significantly slower. Wetsanding is generally for something that you do not plan on repainting. Example: after spraying clear on a panel, you would wetsand it to remove orange peel texture, then compound and polish to get out the wetsanding marks. If your intent is to wetsand off some rattlecan paint and retain the paint underneath I don't think you will have success. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Nov 12, 2021 |
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Nov 12, 2021 21:34
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PBCrunch posted:Wetsanding will be significantly slower. Wetsanding is generally for something that you do not plan on repainting. Example: after spraying clear on a panel, you would wetsand it to remove orange peel texture, then compound and polish to get out the wetsanding marks. It's just bare metal underneath, but that's how it came from the factory and how I'd like to leave it.
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Nov 12, 2021 22:20
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MomJeans420 posted:It's just bare metal underneath, but that's how it came from the factory and how I'd like to leave it. Then you need to use chemical stripper. Unless you want to refinish/re-sand the metal after you get the paint off. The other option is a media blaster, which is something you obviously don't have.
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Nov 12, 2021 23:15
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Some chemical stripper like "aircraft remover" will have that rattle can paint practically falling off after five minutes. Read and follow the safety instructions.
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Nov 12, 2021 23:36
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Thinking about renting one of these to give my extremely stained ridgeline seats a second shot at life before I just get seat covers - is this worth it or does anyone have other tips? https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/Karcher-Carpet-Spot-and-Stair-Cleaner-9-840-068-0/309005721 I've tried using "Tuff Stuff" along with a small steam machine blaster + shop vac and it did absolutely nothing.
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Dec 21, 2021 02:23
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It probably depends on what the stain is from, that plus whatever Folex cleaner matches the stain could work well. I picked up a little steam cleaner and it did an incredible job cleaning up all kinds of ancient crud on the $600 E320 I bought a couple years ago. It’s not really powerful enough to plow through an engine compartment but the interior was really transformed.
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Dec 21, 2021 04:05
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