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meatpimp posted:Why would you? If there's light dust or pollen on it, you can use an old school "California Magic Duster" or whatever. If it's more that superficial (something you couldn't blow off with your mouth), then it needs to be washed. The California Magic Duster worked well with my black 08 Tacoma when I needed to get the pollen off of an otherwise clean truck. Tried the same with my Subaru and got scratches. I guess it just depends on the car/paint. My wife's 03 CRV is generally neglected, but when I do detail it, I'm amazed on how hard and swirl/scratch resistent the paint is.
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May 2, 2012 17:29
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 11:20 |
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So I have some clearcoat failure on the hood of my Mercedes. There is that one guy in Malaysia who posted his success with Opticoat, but are there any other stories out there? Also, would I need to compound the all of the clear coat off in the affected areas? How do do I blend in the opti-coat?
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May 2, 2012 18:23
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I have what I think are tiny hard water spots all over my Subaru. They didn't come off with meguiers gold class soap and a microfiber sponge. They are very small speck and can be removed with a fingernail. How do I get this poo poo off my car?
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May 5, 2012 00:29
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I have what I think are tiny hard water spots all over my Subaru. They didn't come off with meguiers gold class soap and a microfiber sponge. They are very small speck and can be removed with a fingernail. Try clay first, remember to go from least aggressive to most aggressive first. If clay doesn't work, 4000 grit with some ultimate compound/polish and a buffer would work fine.
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May 5, 2012 01:19
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Tai-Pan posted:So I have some clearcoat failure on the hood of my Mercedes. What is Opticoat? Is it some ghetto home weekend solution to get you by on a car with a destroyed clear coat? Because that's would be perfect for my car. At this point I lack the $$ to pay for a decent paint job and don't want to cheap out with a Maaco one. I just need something to get my paint looking a little better as a temp solution.
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May 6, 2012 09:20
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Astroman posted:What is Opticoat? Is it some ghetto home weekend solution to get you by on a car with a destroyed clear coat? Because that's would be perfect for my car. At this point I lack the $$ to pay for a decent paint job and don't want to cheap out with a Maaco one. I just need something to get my paint looking a little better as a temp solution. It's much softer than a clear coat, but harder than a wax.
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May 6, 2012 15:03
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Used Optimum No Rinse for the first time today and I gotta say that I'm drat impressed. The only thing I would have done differently is washed one panel at a time, because it dried and left gross water spots everywhere by the time I made it around the car. My fancy Absorber towel thing was able to clean the water spots off and dry the car better, but I should have been using it on each panel as I washed. It definitely doesn't do as good of a job as a full wash with a hose, but for a single bucket quick clean it did just what I hoped for. Now I have a nice clean car and it only took ~20 minutes including Invisible Glassing the windows.
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May 8, 2012 23:27
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Tested my Griot's random orbital with Machine Polish 3 on my mower this weekend. It's a single stage paint but wow. Afterwards I put some Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax on. Only the last picture is with wax.     Guess I'll put it on the bike and car next.
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May 9, 2012 00:04
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I got some insomnia-purchased Chemical Guys products today. I wish I'd taken before and after pictures, but I wasn't expecting anything to work as well as it did. Lightning Fast Stain Extractor painlessly got the months worth of Coke out of my brother's Jeep as well as some bike grease. We're talking stuff I've tried repeatedly to remove with other products. There's still some ghosting on the really bad areas, but literally all I did was spray it on, let it dwell for 30 seconds, and wipe/blot it up. I'll have to give it a little more work this weekend, and maybe try a stronger dilution. At any rate it looks much better than it did. The Diablo Wheel Gel tore through brake dust that's been there since I bought the car. Having previously tried toothbrushes, wheel brushes, wheel cleaners, micro abrasive chrome polish, and swearing, color me impressed. I mixed up some Diablo from the concentrate, sprayed it on, and watched the crap dissolve in front of my eyes. It didn't get everything by itself, but a little brush action handled the stragglers. Hitting it with a little mist of water made my working time basically infinite with one application. It's no Sonax (and your wheels unfortunately don't start hemorrhaging blood) but I'm happy with it for the price. Also, anything that smells like Bazooka is alright by me. I also bought their rendition of Optimum No Rinse, EcoWash, but the sun's a little brutal to try that just yet.
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May 12, 2012 01:47
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wallaka posted:Tested my Griot's random orbital with Machine Polish 3 on my mower this weekend. It's a single stage paint but wow. Afterwards I put some Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax on. Only the last picture is with wax. these look wonderful!
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May 12, 2012 05:14
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 So, in the above picture I've started polishing the square in the upper left of the photo. I'm using the PC7424XP and started with an LC Orange pad with Meguire's 105 and then finished it with an LC white pad and Meguire's 205. It looks a lot better, but not what I think it should look like. Can I get the rest of the defects out with this buffer / pad / polish combination ? (fyi this is a beater truck. the hood in the photo is from a junk yard and it doesn't match the rest of the truck. so it's in no way critical or life altering if I gently caress it up.)
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May 13, 2012 09:11
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Blinky Blinkerson posted:
I think you need to get a more aggressive compound. Something like Meguiar's #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish or even careful use of #85 Diamond Cut Compound. When you actually start taking material away, you obviously need to be extremely careful, but it can give tremendous results. On the single-stage black I had on my old Miata, there were a couple times that I went full-on with it, using #85 Diamond Cut over the whole car. Diamond cut will leave your finish looking like you went at it with sandpaper. But, polishing it back through the various steps (I went from the cutting compound to #83 to #82 and then to wax) resulted in an unbelievable depth and gloss.
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May 13, 2012 10:56
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EVERYWHERE 
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Never had a problem with the Megs stuff. Turned my lovely gray Altima back to black.    A month later and back to gray 
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May 13, 2012 12:22
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Blinky Blinkerson posted:
M105 is some good stuff, I would keep using it, however I would switch to a Meguire's wool pad to clean it up a bit more. You really can't get much more aggressive than M105/Wool Pad other than a rotary buffer. But if you do that be prepared to be really REALLY careful. In conclusion: PC7424XP/Wool Pad/M105 is your best bet to finish the job.
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May 13, 2012 15:00
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I bought a cheapo £15 buffer today, washed the cars for the first time in 18 months & went to town on mine with T-cut. In conclusion - I need a proper polishing compound, more aggressive definitely, also more polishing covers & a wax to protect it when I've done a proper job. Tomorrow - The wifes car gets a dose. No pictures as its dark now, vast improvement though.
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May 16, 2012 22:26
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Ok, so my mom's (and sometimes mine) Saab has rims that look like total poo poo. Sure, the scratches from scraping into a curb on the right front rim can't be removed but the entire rims are like brown-black and horrible. What should I put on them to get that off them?
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May 16, 2012 23:42
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Cached Money posted:Ok, so my mom's (and sometimes mine) Saab has rims that look like total poo poo. Sure, the scratches from scraping into a curb on the right front rim can't be removed but the entire rims are like brown-black and horrible. What should I put on them to get that off them? Simple Green first, lightly scrub with plastic bristle scrub brush. Then go at the brown-black stains with a Magic Eraser.
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May 17, 2012 00:37
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Or paint them black 
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May 17, 2012 11:20
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meatpimp posted:Simple Green first, lightly scrub with plastic bristle scrub brush. Then go at the brown-black stains with a Magic Eraser. I have no idea if I can get that stuff in Sweden, how about the specialized rim cleaners (i.e Turtle Wax) you can get at the gas stations and hardware stores here? Edit: Also one day when I have a ton of money to spend I want to polish the Saab back to perfection, it's swirled to poo poo right now. Cached Money fucked around with this message at 12:52 on May 17, 2012 |
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May 17, 2012 12:49
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So yesterday I attacked some paint transfer on the side of my truck. I used a basic turtle wax rubbing compound to get it off and it looks fantastic, I'm shocked how much came off and how quickly. I ran a bit of it over a few scratched spots and got excellent results there as well. There's also a few small chips here and there in the bed that I'd like to clean up, what's the word on touch up paint? Waste of time?
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May 18, 2012 21:25
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Cached Money posted:Ok, so my mom's (and sometimes mine) Saab has rims that look like total poo poo. Sure, the scratches from scraping into a curb on the right front rim can't be removed but the entire rims are like brown-black and horrible. What should I put on them to get that off them?
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May 18, 2012 21:48
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Rhyno posted:So yesterday I attacked some paint transfer on the side of my truck. I used a basic turtle wax rubbing compound to get it off and it looks fantastic, I'm shocked how much came off and how quickly. I ran a bit of it over a few scratched spots and got excellent results there as well. There's also a few small chips here and there in the bed that I'd like to clean up, what's the word on touch up paint? Waste of time? http://www.drcolorchip.com/
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May 18, 2012 21:59
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ratbert90 posted:http://www.drcolorchip.com/ Awesome, you are awesome. Another question, my MS6 has a massive chip in the clear coat on the hood from the PO. I will post pics later as I'm at work but is there a good way to repair clear without a full respray?
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May 18, 2012 22:12
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Touch up paint can be crap, but treat it like what it is, painting a car, and don't just blob it on everywhere. Taking your time, doing several thin coats, and wetsanding it can do quite a nice job.
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May 18, 2012 22:12
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InitialDave posted:Touch up paint can be crap, but treat it like what it is, painting a car, and don't just blob it on everywhere. Taking your time, doing several thin coats, and wetsanding it can do quite a nice job. I'm just trying to put off the full respray for another year or so, the car has quite a few large scratches but I don't want to dump all my money into one car right now.
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May 18, 2012 22:15
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Rhyno posted:Awesome, you are awesome. If you are patient and go slow in a very clean area, you can use rattle-can clear. I have done it before with really good results.
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May 18, 2012 22:23
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ratbert90 posted:If you are patient and go slow in a very clean area, you can use rattle-can clear. I have done it before with really good results. I didn't think that would work at all. There's a few stress cracks in the clear from the removal of a sticker (PO did it) so I might have to chip off some more clear before I start.
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May 18, 2012 23:05
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Rhyno posted:I didn't think that would work at all. There's a few stress cracks in the clear from the removal of a sticker (PO did it) so I might have to chip off some more clear before I start. Not chip, sand. This is basically small panel repair at this point, not detailing. And spot repairs aren't that expensive if you just want to bring it somewhere.
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May 18, 2012 23:12
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Motronic posted:Not chip, sand. I'll get some good pictures up tomorrow. The car had a few flaws when I got it but it's been a magnet for attack since then. There's so many small dings and scratches it might be worth having it done professionally but I was hoping to hold off on that.
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May 18, 2012 23:19
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Took a good long look at my car in good sunlight & found the clearcoat is crazed on one rear quarter. The car is worthless so it's not getting repainted but is there anything I can do cheaply/myself?
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May 19, 2012 20:54
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Here's my hood damage  It's through the clear but the paint itself is intact. Should I try fixing it myself?
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May 21, 2012 03:04
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Probably no, but there's no indication of scale there. How big is the damage? Throw a quarter or a dime in that photo. Or a newspaper if it's really horrible.
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May 21, 2012 03:08
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Total area is 5 inches across.
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May 21, 2012 03:10
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That is going to require a respray.
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May 21, 2012 05:25
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ratbert90 posted:That is going to require a respray. I figured. Anything I can do to keep it from getting worse until then?
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May 21, 2012 05:29
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Rhyno posted:I figured. Anything I can do to keep it from getting worse until then? opticoat/wax. When you do that, clay it first so it's free of dirt.
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May 21, 2012 05:31
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ratbert90 posted:opticoat/wax. When you do that, clay it first so it's free of dirt. I'll give it a shot this week. The rear bumper also needs to be redone and there's a bunch of small dents and dings on the car that will also need to be done.
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May 21, 2012 05:34
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If it's old enough perhaps finding a junkyard bumper/hood would work? If the paint from the junkyard is just faded/swirled/dirty it would buff right up in most cases.
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May 21, 2012 05:38
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ratbert90 posted:If it's old enough perhaps finding a junkyard bumper/hood would work? If the paint from the junkyard is just faded/swirled/dirty it would buff right up in most cases. Not likely, it's a 2007 Mazdaspeed 6 in Black Mica. The hood and bumpers were unique to the model and they had a very small production run over the two years.
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May 21, 2012 05:45
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Well that's really lame. My Suggestion is this then: Buff the hood so all the swirls are gone, that way the auto body shop will have a much MUCH easier time matching paint. Or do what I did and find somebody off of craigslist who was out on his luck but had 20 years of auto body experience . He painted my spoiler, hood, front bumper, and back bumper for 200$ + paint. The nearest quote I got was 1,000$ from a auto body shop down the road.
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May 21, 2012 05:50
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