Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us $3,400 per month for bandwidth bills alone, and since we don't believe in shoving popup ads to our registered users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
  • Post
  • Reply
Stultus
Jul 22, 2007



I was looking for a thread like this as I definitely have OCD with my car.


Not sure if anyone else uses these products, but I use Adam's Polishes in basically every aspect of detailing my car from exterior to interior. Their stuff is a bit on the pricier side, but it's pretty much fool proof to work with and all of it seems to work amazingly on all the cars I've worked on.

Here's the website: http://www.adamspolishes.com/default.aspx and he even has a nice long playlist to showcase his products and how to use them properly for anyone that's interested in learning to detail http://youtu.be/gxhHK1-lCTw

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Stultus
Jul 22, 2007



ratbert90 posted:

Water spots from rain? You can't avoid them. Wax and opticoat 2.0 help keep them at bay. Water spots from washing? If your tap water is leaving deposits you can always run it through a filter first, or buy distilled water.

Another thing you can do to avoid water spots while washing the car is to not wash a panel then rinse, and repeat that til the whole car is done. Soap drying on the car will come off when you do the full rinse, while hard water will spot while you're finishing up the rest of the car

Stultus
Jul 22, 2007



I use the foam gun too. Probably the most essential step to avoiding swirls on your paint when washing your car IMO

Stultus
Jul 22, 2007



hedge posted:

Psst...a lot of Adam's stuff is made by these guys. Some of the products will sound familiar to you. I have attended some of Adam's instructional days; they are really knowledgable and helpful folks. I still buy some stuff from them just because of that.

I've used a lot of Chemical Guys stuff as well before, but I turned to Adams for the same reason that you use them to buy some stuff. They're really helpful over there, and if you post a question someone usually has an answer within minutes.


Also to add to drying the car, does anyone use the California Water blade? I found it really helpful since it knocks off a bulk of the water from the flat surfaces so you don't have to worry about over saturating your drying towel.

Stultus
Jul 22, 2007



hedge posted:

If your car has some sort of wax/sealant on it, try this. After washing, take the nozzle off your hose. If you just run water straight out of the hose from the roof down, it comes off in sheets and leaves you with very little that you will need to towel dry.

I already use sheet rinsing as well, I was just wondering if anyone else used the water blade. It's another step I added after sheet rinsing though, I rarely spend a lot of time with microfiber towels drying my car.

To contribute to stuff I use right now, always open to new suggestions though:
Wash: Adam's Car Shampoo, Gilmour Foamaster II foam gun, Two 5 Gallon buckets with grit guards, 11x11" wash pad and 9x9" wash pad.
Clay: I've been using the Meguiar's Clay kit listed in the OP but have also used the Turtle Wax ICE Clay Kit and Adam's Clay Bar w/ Detail spray as a lubricant
Wax: Recently I've been using Adam's Buttery Wax, since I like working with liquid waxes over paste.
Polishes: Adam's Swirl and Haze Remover w/ Orange pad, followed by their Fine Machine Polish with white pad.
Exterior plastic and tires: Adam's (or Chemical Guys, it's the same thing) VRT
Interior plastic: Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner, or Adam's Leather and Interior Cleaner: My new car (less than a month old) has cloth seats so all I've had to do to them so far is vacuum them along with the carpets. But for the stained up carpets I use Adam's Carpet & Upholstery cleaner
Towels: Cobra Waffle Weave towel or Adam's Great White Drying towel
Wheels: Boulder blonde boar's hair wheel brush and a 20" fender brush



Since I mentioned it above though, what would you guys use on cloth seats if there's a stain or just a large amount of dirt in them? TIA

Stultus
Jul 22, 2007



toplitzin posted:

What do you guys recommend for Pine Sap removal? here in FL it's horrid, and I never seem to get if off quickly enough.

I've used Acetone, rubbing alcohol, and surprisingly Rain-X works really well for removing it as well.


I've used Turtle Wax ICE Liquid Clay for sap removal in the past. Just make sure the car is wet when you use it, or it will leave a haze behind. Otherwise it doesn't do any damage to the paint at all.

Stultus
Jul 22, 2007



Realjones posted:

What are you using for a pressure washer with the foam gun? Being able to wash the car without scrubbing it down is appealing. Seems like it would be good for winter when I want to get most of the salt off, but don't want to be freezing my hand off in 10 degree weather doing it.

My foam gun is used with a normal garden hose, which I like better. However I don't use it to solely wash the car, since I still use wash pads w/ soap and buckets after foaming the car down. I only use it as a lubricant for dirt that's on the car, so when I start going over with the wash pad I don't create swirls.

Stultus
Jul 22, 2007



I have the PC7424 as well as the Flex. The Flex is a great polisher and will correct any defects in the paint quicker than a PC, but there if you have no prior experience with machine buffing than it would definitely be wiser to pick up the PC, especially if the defects are fairly light.


You could however learn on the Flex, just make sure you look up the proper technique on how to use it before going to the paint with it. It's a powerful machine and you can run the risk of damaging your clear coat if used improperly. I use the Flex almost all the time now because of how much quicker it corrects paint, but I do use the PC with 4" pads in tighter areas of the car. So if you want to buy the PC and get your technique down and then buy the Flex later, you won't have to worry about your PC being useless.

Stultus
Jul 22, 2007



Ripoff posted:

Thanks for the advice. I'll place an order for the PC tonight, and I think I'll go through that Autogeek site since they have a ton of good information and free tutorials. I think I'll go for one of their multi-pad kits with the cutting and waxing pads and see how good I can get before I go with anything more powerful.

...and if it goes wrong I'll be posting a thread asking for reputable local painters.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XAqpOe9Zt4 - Proof that you would have to screw up on a massive scale to need a repaint after using the PC. Should give you some comfort in using the PC as well!

Stultus
Jul 22, 2007



I have a Siberian Husky also and totally understand where you're coming from with the fur. I bought a fur removal rock from a local detailing supply store around me, and it's made a huge difference when vacuuming up the dog hair. They're not too badly priced either. Looks like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrR1...be_gdata_player

Stultus
Jul 22, 2007



I took berry juice off of my girlfriends car not too long ago with a tar and bug remover soap inside of my power washer, as well as clay. But cleaning that up shouldn't take thousands of dollars, so rest easy. The GTI doesn't have a super soft clear coat either, so if there is etching I don't expect it to be awful

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Stultus
Jul 22, 2007



Have you looked on chemical guys? They have a lot of pads for the PC, and a kit for microfiber pads + polish if you're looking for a two stage set up. I believe they also carry the LC pads as well.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply