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toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


What do you guys recommend for Pine Sap removal? here in FL it's horrid, and I never seem to get if off quickly enough.

I've used Acetone, rubbing alcohol, and surprisingly Rain-X works really well for removing it as well.

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toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


ratbert90 posted:

A warning: Cut the clay in half, that way if you drop it you have another half bar left. IF THE CLAY TOUCHES THE GROUND THROW IT OUT.

Wouldn't it be easier to pick it up, DO NOT KNEAD IT OR MIX IT IN ANY WAY, and then take off the ground touching layer with a razor blade?

Or is the risk just too high? I tend to put newspaper on the ground of i'm working the vertical panels of my car, just in case.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Powdered Toast Man posted:

I would post a picture of the car, but it's too humiliating at this point how lovely it looks.

It isn't just on the hood, it's on the entire loving car.

After reading those posts I'm considering using some Dawn to start with to see what that does. Failing that, I may need to use something more...solventy...on limited areas. It's my understanding that turpentine or mineral spirits won't be damaging as long as they aren't left on for too long.

Now that I think about it, they make paint strippers that are citrus oil-based, so I guess that makes sense that it would be bad for the paint.

RainX works too as a FL Pine Sap remover.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Etrips posted:

Is there a good reference that someone can direct me to that can show me step by step what a good detailing process should look like and what each step does specifically? Also what is a good entry level orbital polisher one can get?

Yes please. I need to do the same after a purge of old/terrible/useless supplies from the recesses of the garage.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Just a heads up, there is a 20% off coupon, eligible on a bunch of Chem Guys stuff at Amazon today.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/coupon/20...A3LTIDD68CLMGB/

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


now they went and said 20% off your entire order today.

Enjoy 20% off your entire purchase with code FBFAN20.

Through their own storefront.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


I had some seriously sticky dirt/gunk on Wrar's outback at the hood edge. Good ole gold class/foam gun/mitt couldn't do any good.



Praise be to chemical guys:


at 5:1 the crud just wiped off with a microfiber and mild pressure/wiping:


Best i can figure it's coming from the following hood drain:



I haven't clay barred it or compounded her yet, but a nice wash plus the Chem Guys after wash drying agent came out pretty nice for a quick wash:

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


I am a bad detailer. I washed and clay barred my car this weekend and realized i have 0 wax/sealant.

I'm looking at Chem Guys GAP_106_16 All-In-One Polish + Shine + Sealant, Butter Wax and Jet Seal as a 3 step process. (applied/used in that order)
I'm also down with buying a tub of ye olde paste wax too, but am open to suggestions.

I also have a bottle of ceramic coating but i don't have access to an empty garage for the half day it would take at the moment.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Fo3 posted:

Yeah, you're supposed to polish/paint correct and then seal. A carnauba wax on top is last (and I never bother as the sealant is a synthetic wax and lasts longer anyway - carnuaba is just the old school stuff)
Every month I wash and seal. Every 6 months I wash, clay, polish and seal.
Even on the old chem guys vids I have seen it's wash, clay, polish, glaze (scratch and swirl remove), seal (jet seal), and then wax (butter wet wax).

I would skip the all in one, get a polish (what type depends on how old/hard/worked the paint is), a scratch and swirl remover (glaze), and a sealant; and keep it at just those three products.
E: maybe pick up a quick liquid wax/detail spray for when you have to remove poo poo between washes.

I've got enough correcting stuff, I grabbed the all in one because there is barely anything wrong in the paint to correct. (I've got the V-Line 32, 34, 36, 38 but it felt like it would be too aggressive for the surprisingly good paint/clear). At this point in time i'm reasonably confident the finish can be taken care of with a hand polish and wax, hence the drift to the light duty/AIO for this round.

Re: Correct/seal/wax: I was not paying attention while work posting and got the order wrong. Sorry for the confusion on that one.

I've got a quick wax/detail spray in both their Clay Lube and After Wash.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


I've been slowly breaking down detailing my car into after work chunks.
This week, black plastic restoration:

Before-ish (during)


After:



I also did some basic polishing with the AIO from chem guys followed by their butter wax:

(You can also see the grey plastic here. I also did the wiper arms)

Lessons learned: I need a compressor to clean out my (one is not enough!) pad between body panels. even with applying it lightly i'd still get residue buildup on the pad and then it'd start flinging polish marbles.
I ended up hand applying and buffing off the wax because of this.

I'm still not sure how, but this 10 year old car doesn't seem to need anything besides a really light polish. I don't really see any of the usual compound/cutting problems to correct (visible swirls, fading, etc. just a couple rock chips)

I really want to get the ceramic coating on it, but i lack a garage, and doing it in the sun, even on a cool day, gives me pause. Worst case i'll break out a collapsible awning to give me shade.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


I'm really happy with all the product I've gotten from them so far. (most of my kit at this point)

I've got their foam gun soap, bug/tar remover soap, interior hard surface cleaner, carpet/upholstery cleaner, clay bar lube, after wash, butter wax, jet shine sealant, all in one sealant wax polish (this goes on really nice), microfiber cleaner (for the laundry), plastic sealant/restorer/polish (also works really nicely).
The scent kit is good too. (Stripper scent is creepily accurate).

Edit: Clay not wax

toplitzin fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Nov 22, 2018

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


MrOnBicycle posted:

A good rule of thumb is that less is more. You don't need tons of different products for different parts of the car exterior/interior. I use 2 chemicals for my maintenance wash, a rinse-less wash and a spray wax to aid in drying the car as well as adding a layer of protection.

Not that we needed all that for one washing, but once you get locked into a serious detailing collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


MrOnBicycle posted:

Oh I've spent way more on products that's I've never finished than I'd want to admit. I also use more products when I do decon washes and so on. As a newbie it's very easy to get sold on all these products and get carried away, so if money is a big factor it's nice to know that you don't need it to do a good wash.

But it's a hobby and I like trying products, so I don't mind spending some on it. I'll say though that I find rinseless washes pretty enjoyable. Meg's D114 is an amazing product. I'm amazed every time I see it remove all dirt in one wipe, and depending on dilution it's everything from a panel wipe to a light cleaner. Xpress synthetic wax is also amazing and can be used on everything except fabric, interior and exterior.

I love the after-wash from ChemGuys but I need to find a different spray bottle. The bottle it came in seemed to spray really finely and also not use a lot of product. i dropped it and broke the sprayer and the rest of my generic spray bottles seem to deliver far too much product for my needs.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Evil SpongeBob posted:

Thanks again. Yeah, I'm not looking to too far beyond wash, wax, polish. I'm not going to car shows. I agree some of their poo poo is cringey, but it is nice walking into a store and putting my hands on stuff.

Also, I just looked at a mitt I just bought from meguiars. I guess their corporate hq is here by me too. But it looks like they aren't open to the public.

E: But it does look like detailing.com's showroom is right by me. Hooray!

In that case, get whichever of their soaps you like the best (I have mr pink), the All-In-One polish/sealant/wax, 2 buckets, and a grit guard for each. (And a bajillion microfiber towels on sale)
If you want to go a little hard, add a clay bar and a bottle of clay lube.

Edit: for a general reminder of a good way to do things is the Master Guide PDF from Ammo.
https://www.ammonyc.com/wp-content/...eanChart_V3.pdf

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


BlackMK4 posted:

What can I put on wheels to prevent Hawk DTC dust (cancer) from sticking to them once it gets wet?

Wheel Wax.

Chem Guys
https://www.chemicalguys.com/Wheel_...z_p/wac_303.htm

Ammo:
https://www.ammonyc.com/shop/gelee-wheel-protectant/

note: these will all help, not prevent.

toplitzin fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Nov 26, 2018

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


BlackMK4 posted:

Will it melt if it sees over a few hundred degrees?

Larry uses the Gelee on his track 918 so.....

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


I have so many towels.
I do love/live by Larry's advice of color coding them to prevent cross contamination.

Yellow - interior
Blue - glass
White - trim/plastic/rubber/wheels
Light blue - polish/wax
Giant sized gold - drying

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


wallaka posted:

What's the go-to headlight polishing kit these days?

I like the 3M, and bonus when it's at Harbor Freight and you have a 20% off coupon.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


I've been really liking how well Chem Guys Bug and Tar has worked for me. I dilute it 6:1 into a spray bottle and most stuff comes right off with a microfiber. They say it can also be used as an additive to bucket washing, but i haven't tried that yet.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


I finally have a good car for a before and after.
I jsut bought a used (226k) honda civic.
body and paint are already fubar, but i can still have fun practicing.
Before and afters this weekend!

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Red_Fred posted:

Back on topic: are micro fibre cloths or a brush best for cleaning leather seats? I’ve been using cloths but saw some guy using a brush which seemed way better. Just would need to be a soft brush right?

¿Por que no los dos?
Yeah a soft brush is fine, small or medium. Think shoe brush size.
https://youtu.be/4Bd_IqK5ydU

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


doctorfrog posted:

Looking to confirm or alter some old car washing habits. I'm looking at WireCutter's guide for car cleaning for casual folks. Any real dumb ideas there? I'm puzzled by the recommendation for NuFinish, which I had the impression was something you'd put on top of a wax, and there's no wax product recommended. I used to use the liquid Turtle Wax on my old Civic.

that article recommends Meg's NXT Tech Wax 2.0

As far as basic guides go, theirs is fine, but I prefer Larry's blueprint.

Basic car wash: https://www.ammonyc.com/wp-content/...orning_Wash.pdf

Detailing blueprint/master guide:
https://www.ammonyc.com/wp-content/...eanChart_V3.pdf

edit: As far as wheel cleaning chemical products, I prefer Sonax to the ones on their list.

toplitzin fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Feb 9, 2019

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Anyone have recommendations for glass polish?
My windshield is covered in micropitting, and I'd like to give polishing a shot (also practice) before I replace it anyway.


Here's a closeup. every sparkle you see is a micropit.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


New glass from safelite it is.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


My Canadian 98 Civic is $290 installed @ safelite.
I tried a local place guest and they asked "usdm/jdm or Canadian? Pray it's not Canadian."

Turns out the Loonie version of glass is $450 at the dealer, $350 at Honda parts online, and that's not with install.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


beep-beep car is go posted:

y'all don't have 0 deductible glass comprehensive insurance?

Nope, I'm not in Florida anymore. (Thank God)

The only thing that doesn't count as a claim in NC is chip repair.

Edit:

BlackMK4 posted:

I go through a couple of Safelite installed windshields a year because Arizona, but I've noticed the aftermarket glass seems to be much more prone to pitting.

could always clear bra the new glass.
https://clearplex.com/product/

toplitzin fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Feb 16, 2019

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Anyone have experience with the other windshield coatings other than rain-x? Are the ceramic window coatings worth the premium?

Larry had mentioned offhand in a older Drive/Clean that rain-x wasn't the best, but his comment seemed mostly directed at the longevity/time between applications vs performance.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Here4DaGangBang posted:


Also what’s a good product for rubber trim rejuvenation? Preferably something which doesn’t end up looking oily.

Chem guys V.R.P.
Nice and dark, smooth but not oily. Lasts a couple weeks on really bad plastic.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


MetaJew posted:

Maybe it's just the mobile app, but that link doesn't seem to go to your post, for me.

It's a mobile thing.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


MetaJew posted:

After reading a little on windshield polishing, I think, after I refresh my suspension, I'm going to borrow my friend's DA, polish the windshield and apply some aquapel. However, looking on Amazon there are a ton of sellers and multipacks but they look suspiciously like counterfeit goods.

So, where did you buy yours? It looks like Autopia sells it.

I bought the 3 pack on amazon from HVACR tool supply. I guess we'll find out if they are good or not.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Chem Guys Gold Box today

https://www.amazon.com/apb/page/ref...QDY9YBGW7G452V1

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Red_Fred posted:

Is there some special way to wash microfibre towels?

Wash them separately, no fabric softeners or dryer sheets. Either tumble low or air dry.

I also use chemical guys microfiber wash product when I do a big load, and it's still only a cap full or two.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Tremek posted:

I need recommendations on how to clean and keep this car clean on an ongoing basis. Easily the nicest paint I have owned and I'm out of practice. How would you guys do it?

It's (still) filthy right now from getting caught in weather on the drive back from CA, but it's supposed to get nice this weekend. I read the first page post but I don't want to strip the car down immediately, so I need recommendations on what soaps to use or not use, how to wash without grinding dirt into the paint, etc.

FWIW, I'm on well water and have next to no detailing equipment at the moment, so assume I need to acquire just about everything.

Also I believe the nose may have a clear wrap or coat of some kind, and all the chrome trim is wrapped.







Wash wheels with their own bucket/wash mitt/wheel stuff.

Two bucket (with grit guard) basic wash, car soap (megs or whomever), microfiber mitt.
If you have a pressure washer, get a foam cannon (or get one of the hose attaching ones).
Rinse the car, spray the car down with soapy water/foam.
Wash from the top down.
Rinse
Dry (with or without drying aids)

Wash glass.

Enjoy your cleaner car.

If you want to go hard, Larry has a pretty basic guidelines of steps/order
https://www.ammonyc.com/wp-content/...eanChart_V3.pdf

Once you've got the base clean done you can start looking deeper to see if it needs correction or more.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


opengl128 posted:

Thinking of snagging the HF pressure washer today w/ a 25% off Memorial Day coupon.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1750-...sher-63254.html

Anyone have that one? It has solid reviews. I guess I don't NEED it but I've probably been watching too many car detailing videos with pressure washers.

I've had an electric for quite some time, and i think i'm finally going to cut over and get a gas one for the higher flow rates.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


I don't get the decent foam with my electric and is the one reason i'm thinking of upgrading to hit 2GPM+

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


meatpimp posted:

Is a pressure washer ideal for foam? I use the Chemical Guys Torx Foam Blaster that you hook up to a garden hose, so there's a ton of water volume and the foam stacks as much as you want it to... https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guy...s/dp/B00F5MCL14

I have both kinds.

I got his one first:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Y190WE

I wasn't impressed enough by it that I went ahead and got one for the pressure washer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MF8E46S/

And here's what i usually get for results:



Heck even theirs wants 2GPM, but will work at 1.4.
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guy...s/dp/B071X6WFXL

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


meatpimp posted:

I've been detailing since before "detailing" was a thing. I'll put my work up against anyone and I have moved through many products over the years. It seems, though, that there's a focus on diminishing returns in some aspects of detailing now -- "panel impact ratio" is one of them. It's putting bubbles on a car to get the dirt off, there's only so much you can do with that.


That looks like the exact same thing as the one I linked, CG just buys a different color and puts their name on it. It does all I need, and mine looks similar to the sudsy picture you showed.

See, I was expecting more "your car was outside during the snowstorm" levels of foam.

Hearing that you get the same output makes me feel quite a bit better.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


PainterofCrap posted:




It's far from a modern perfect glaze, but it's miles better than I expected I'd ever get. Thanks, guys!

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


There are several deposit remover sprays, but the cheapest is a gallon of distilled vinegar.
Wash as normal, spot spray with vinegar, wipe, wash area again to remove any leftover acid/vinegar.

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toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003



The one and only.

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