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Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)

Josh Lyman posted:

Alright guys. Weather is balmy 73*F and I have a carport. Wash/clay/compound/wax for the first time...
Sounds like a good plan.

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Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Now I know why I never had a white car before.
I was fine all winter I've owned it, but now spring is here after a long drive it was covered in pollen or smashed bugs. Lots of yellow and brown splotches that didn't come off in a wash. Even a claying, or a light compound rub. The compound got close, but this car is old (1990) and already has thin paint is places. What's the best way/product to treat this?
It was previously rubbed back with compound and waxed when I bought it in May, and I've used "wash and wax" car wash in june/july, but ti's just old stuff I have from my last cars, some old meguires, some old turtlewax stuff. The only thing I bought specifically for this car was some mothers clay bar and spray.

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Thanks, I'll give that a try.
E: Yeah down here we can easily get most Turtle wax, mothers, meguires, autoglym at any local car accessories store.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Sep 12, 2017

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Cheap clay bars are good for your windscreen just before you treat with rain-x too! My BMW gets the treats, but my ford can suck it. Speaking of the ford:

Hey guys I really really hosed up my paint job. Spray gun had blockages so it was cutting in an out, getting a tiger stripe effect. I was in a rush to move house and get the loving paint on so I just kept going with heaps of poo poo coats until I ran out of paint or thinners.
End result a lot of rough stuff where the gun stuttered and orange peel where it kinda worked.
I've started to rub it back with 1500 grit wet and now I've got to make the decision for more clear coat, or lots of buffing, compound, polish and wax.

Personally I'd prefer clear coat again, but since I have moved I don't have a garage to paint in any more so it's likely I'd end up with clear coat full of dirt and dust that needs buffing back loving again anyway.
This car is worth $1k so this is more for my own learning and entertainment. What is best if going with cheap gear - grinder style ~1000w rotary buffer or ~200w hand sander DA style? I think the cheapy DA hand sander style ones have a lot of vibration which may be detrimental anyway.

I'm just thinking of going to get some meguires ultimate compound, a $130 black and decker grinder style buffer and go to town with some cheap pads as there's nothing to lose. Point me in the right direction for a better/easier way or compounds to use.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Nov 10, 2017

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Yeah, I'm using aussie grit. Sometimes did OK in the wet, sometimes not. Often you have to watch out for flying debris/cars.

Making some progress, only doing it in the evening during the odd 30 min during dusk where there's plenty of light but no hot sun drying everything out because it's getting hot down here lately I can't do it in the shade or under cover unfortunately. I'm hand sanding it but definitely wasn't planning on hand buffing/polishing that's for sure, which is why I was asking about best option for under au$150 powered buffer/polishing tool.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Nov 12, 2017

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
I couldn't find any wet/dry sanding discs in high grit for a DA sander at the local parts store. So I picked up some 2000grit to help finish it by hand (the highest grit they stocked), and bought a grinder style buffer with a synth wool pad and some compound. I'll see how that turns out. Doesn't need to be perfect - it just needed a respray as the paint was peeling and rusting bare metal, and also the crash damage on the tailight, so getting any paint on was a major improvement.

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Trip report: Getting really bored with 1500 grit as it's taking forever. I know I haven't sanded far enough back yet but I really wanted to see some result. So some places where I don't care so much if there is orange peel (like some parts of the door) I tried out the grinder style buffer with synth wool pad and meguires ultimate compound, just to get an idea if it was going to work.
It came up awesome, with less orange peel than the factory paint! I can't see any 1500 grit scratch marks where I used a sanding block and could get the buffer wheel on it so I know I'm going to get there soon. There were some scratches in crevices where I had to sand with fingers and couldn't get the buffer on it fully so that is a problem.
So 1500 grit seems good enough when following with a good abrasive compound applied with a buffer wheel, but 2000grit needed for areas done by finger sanding and hand rubbing.

Also I think it would have been better to start with 1200 grit or maybe even 1000 grit to get it down flatter quicker, then switch to 1500. I took so long and went through so many sheets because I needed to do a lot of sanding back with 1500.

I've only really finished the door, still have the whole side of the tub and half the roof to go despite going over them 4 times already with 1500 grit, so when my finger heals (cut a bit of the tip off in the kitchen), I'm going to get some 1200 or 1000 grit for those panels, then finish with 1500 for machine reachable areas and the 2000 grit for hand sanding only areas.
Then meguires ultimate compound and wool pad, the polish (already have mothers so I'll use that) with foam pad, then spray wax (have mequires so I'll use that)

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 09:21 on Nov 16, 2017

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
I had a look for them in aussie, seems ppc co are the distributor, (they get most of the premium stuff like por15 and leatherique).
Anyway, needless to say, expensive as gently caress. They don't sell in large quantities to major retailers, just trade and independents mostly at low volumes and typical 'held hostage' aussie mark ups because if you want it you can't get it anywhere else and it goes through a long chain of everyone adding markups (E: and it would be on an 'order in' basis for the retailers at the end of the chain)

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 10:42 on Jan 21, 2018

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)

MrOnBicycle posted:

If you mean Bilt Hamber, jesus christ you weren't kidding. I checked some ppc co for the foam, and it's 40% more expensive than what I bought mine for. Interestingly, the guys I bought my Auto Foam from (Slim's detailing) charge exactly what Bilt Hamber themselves do, i.e. £16,97 for 5 liters.
Yeah, I meant bilt hamber. Small distros like ppc gently caress up the market, and control the market if they get to it first. They grab premium products that might be featured in YT, car forums or blogs like BH, POR, leatherique, and that's it.
No chance getting anything like real world price down here unless open distro, or at least a huge retailer distro. PPC is not these things and restricts the market.

I can go to an auto parts store and off the shelf by autoglym, mothers and meguires at reasonable prices because major retailers brought them in.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 13:02 on Jan 21, 2018

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Anyone dealt with an older car?
Mines a 1990, in some spots, like hard creases on the roof and bonnet, the paint is so very thin that I don't want to use cutting compound at all, and I've used mild polish and a clay bar once just to do the best care I can.
Currently using armourall car wash (because I already have it and results look good - it's either that or turtle wax "wash and wax" I have) and then meguire's spray detailing wax after.
I've worked on other cars so I have mothers brand clay bar and spray kit, meguire's polish, meguire's ultimate compound, a buffer with synthetic "wool" and foam pads, and a drill pad of real wool from years and years ago.
I don't really want to use this on old thin and non clear coated 27yr old paint, (most of the stuff I have was bought was for other cars like newer ford aussie barra falcons.)

Anyway: the only good thing about my 1990 e34 is the straight body and paint. The susp and brakes were big $ repairs I have done but the 300kk engine is going to be stuffed soon too (lifters, timing chain and guides I think will be needed soon) and no idea when I can get to that budget wise plus I want to do a 3l or turbo, anyway, point is the sole redeeming feature is the bodywork and paint and I want to keep it. I want to look after the paint and bodywork if not for me at least for the next owner, and that requires a bit of paint touch ups (scratches and stone chips)- but that also means some sanding back and compound.

Anyone here tackled an old car job? Like surface rusting door drains and old stone chips on bumper/bonnet and regular door scratches and chips? I'm thinking of building up stone chip repairs with spray can paint applied by brush and then 2000grit sanding and compound plus polish.
Best prep, best way or no way tips are being asked for right now.
I want do it right because if it looks OK then maybe one day I'll get around to the mechanicals and if I don't my kid will maybe one day (although he wants a pontiac and they haven't made them here since the 60s. He also wants a kombi).

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:31 on Feb 4, 2018

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)

Scott808 posted:

That line looks like clearcoat failure and the only real way to fix it is a repaint.

Yeah, looks like clear coat failure.

always be closing posted:

I doubt you can burn through the paint with a random orbit and ultimate compound.


MrOnBicycle posted:

Yeah, get a paint thickness gauge.

No need, I can see grey in some spots. That is, the white paint in some spots is so thin it's translucent and I see primer. It's mainly the bonnet, and roof ridge line. I swear it wasn't that bad when I got it and I haven't even used a buffer or compound on it, just mild polishing by hand.
I guess I'll just have to either at least respray the bonnet eventually or buy a s/h bonnet from a wrecking e34.

Boot/trunk lid, sides and most of the roof aren't so thin, so nothing major like a full respray required. I'll just be extra careful around ridgelines on the roof and never use a buffer, rubbing compound or any harsh polish on it. E: plus keep it clean and use just a spray on sealant/wax
bonnet ridge

roof ridge

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Feb 22, 2018

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
I use oakwood leather cleaners for home and car, but maybe look into leatherique pristine clean if you don't have any trouble getting it (I've had trouble, but it is usually highly recommended so maybe worth the hassle?)
Crappy distro here but in the US chase them up E: horrible website and when clicking on products it goes from .com to .org and different vendors and looks completely illegit.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Apr 28, 2018

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
It's a long shot but if anyone happens to be in straya and finds synthetic clay let me know. Nothing came up with a google search except USA options involving $30 postage.
I've gone through my old clay bars and looking for an alternative right now. Because the paint on my car is pretty thin I can't compound or machine polish it much, so I need to use a clay bar so it still looks ok with light work and sealant.

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Thanks, I'll check in store, but I searched their site before my post and didn't find it. If autoglym, meguires, mothers or bowdens make one they'll have it or get on in maybe, but that's the only brands they stock besides old cheap stuff under their own sca brand (I would be suprised if they have sca synth clay when they don't sell sca reg clay)

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
I'm practicing on my old 2005 ford falcon ute because it's a basket-case anyway. I've already had to respray the roof, drivers door and front guard due to a factory paint error where it doesn't bond with the primer and is likely to peel off. I didn't have enough time or paint to paint the bonnet, but I may do it one day, but anyway for now I'm just practicing on it with a grinder style non orbital/non random buffer and cheap wool and foam pads. Meguires ultimate compound, polish and quick detailing wax.

Before- after a wash and clay bar




After compound, polish and wax


It was hard to show faults in daylight so I went out at night with a flash




I guess the big mark of clear coat failure can't be helped, as well as the paint failing(E: though I think the specks of fail in the last photo was made worse during compounding with the buffer),
But is there anything I can do about the spots in the problem area? I'm guessing they are clear coat fail too because 2 attempts with ultimate compound didn't fix anything. So much orange peel though maybe it's worth wetsanding and going over and over again next time I'm bored. It's just practice for good cars anyway.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Jun 24, 2018

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Yeah, some cheap car wash liquid is pretty good. Someone gave me some old armorall car wash stuff that works well enough if I follow it up with meguires detailing products. There's no reason to put dish-washing liquid on a car unless you want to strip all protections off on purpose.

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
I was just thinking of something that even grocery stores often have, amourall or even something like turtlewax won't be used by detailers, but it's available everywhere and is a lot better than dishwashing liquid if someone can't be bothered going to an auto store or online detailing shop.

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Seems a pain with all the isopropyl alc prep, removing polish and waxes, and doing it a small section at a time etc.
My car is white and I have to wash it every month. Wash and spray sealant/shine anyway. Every 6mth then a rub back with a clay bar, then gentle polish and wax as well

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Sep 17, 2018

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
Yeah, you're supposed to polish/paint correct and then seal. A carnauba wax on top is last (and I never bother as the sealant is a synthetic wax and lasts longer anyway - carnuaba is just the old school stuff)
Every month I wash and seal. Every 6 months I wash, clay, polish and seal.
Even on the old chem guys vids I have seen it's wash, clay, polish, glaze (scratch and swirl remove), seal (jet seal), and then wax (butter wet wax).

I would skip the all in one, get a polish (what type depends on how old/hard/worked the paint is), a scratch and swirl remover (glaze), and a sealant; and keep it at just those three products.
E: maybe pick up a quick liquid wax/detail spray for when you have to remove poo poo between washes.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 11:48 on Oct 16, 2018

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Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)

Suburban Dad posted:

This seems way too frequent to me. I'd only polish if you really need to (1-2 years min) as to not remove any more clear than necessary. If you're washing correctly, you shouldn't be getting too many swirls in the first place. Sealant lasts longer than a month, so I wouldn't do that as often either. If you did it every 3-6 months, that would seem more appropriate IMO.

I usually use sealant every 6 months. I don't wash as often anymore (lack of time more than lack of necessity), but try to do one good detail before winter and spray at the car wash weekly (no brush) if I can. In the summer I wash when I can and do a good detail at the beginning of the season and clay/seal winter grime off then.

It's more to get better at it, and it's usually by hand as the paint is old single stage and worn down in places so I don't attack it too hard with a machine polish or compound, just trying to bring it back with a little manual treatment when I have nothing else to do or no money for mechanical spendy. It's a 1990 car so there's heaps of old swirl marks and damage there that takes a lot of applications if not using a machine, and also because bored a lot so I just take a little bit out each time. I have a rotary mains tool (not random) but that's for beating up new and thicker paint.
Plus it's white, it's dirty after 30min.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Oct 16, 2018

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