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toplitzin posted:Anyone have experience with the other windshield coatings other than rain-x? Are the ceramic window coatings worth the premium? I really like Aquapel and I can go over a year between applications here in Florida. As a bonus I've had a single application on our glass shower door for over two and it still works great.
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# ¿ Feb 19, 2019 15:41 |
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# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 10:53 |
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MomJeans420 posted:A lot of the reviews on amazon that said it was fake complained about the lack of smell, and I didn't notice any smell on the 3 pack I bought. I might just pay the $10/applicator direct from Aquapel and see if looks/smells/works different. Aquapel has an extreme gasoline-like chemical smell that will take your breath away, you can see the vapors against the glass when you are first applying it. If you didn't notice a smell then yeah my bet is you got some fake stuff. Real aquapel is the best, we even use it on our shower door. Complain to Amazon about it and get a refund!
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# ¿ Sep 27, 2019 22:47 |
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MetaJew posted:Yeah I was thinking about buying the bulk pack to apply to my shower glass. But first I need to find a good glass cleaner to remove the mineral and water spots. Halp Is there any difference between automotive windows and typical glass? If not then I'd do what I do on old cars with water spots, water and 0000 steel wool. And a bunch of time.
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# ¿ Sep 28, 2019 01:32 |
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meatpimp posted:Vast difference. I've never made a dent in a windshield with regular wear. The normal, everyday pits are way to deep to polish out, and to do so, you'd need so much abrasive, force, and/or pressure that you'd be heating up and busting the glass. The only glass I've been able to successfully polish anything out of is side glass, and that was using this: https://www.mckees37.com/water-spot-remover.html I meant side glass vs windshield glass, but that Mckees stuff looks pretty interesting. I've had both an 85 Rugger and 85 Hilux with absolutely ancient water spots on not-windshield glass that I could only get out with the steel wool, just takes a long time and moderate pressure.
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# ¿ Sep 28, 2019 02:26 |
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meatpimp posted:Then you didn't use it correctly. This is completely correct, and to add more info the "chemical process" is the violently reactive ozone annihilating itself against organic stuff, aka the stink. That's the reason why you are not supposed to be breathing ozone (annihilate your squishy lungs) and why there is the idea to not just bake stuff in ozone for days (as it would start to destroy fabric and other things). This is also why it works best when completely sealed for an hour or so at a time so the ozone can do it's work.
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# ¿ Oct 10, 2019 17:27 |
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everdave posted:I have seen your detailing work so I trust what you are saying but that seems too good to be true... They work amazingly well yes. Your biggest issue will be the paint underneath is not going to be worn or faded as much as the paint that wasn't under the decal. I have done it on multiple imports, from small things like the side of the Prado that said 'EFI TURBO DIESEL' from 1991 to the entire decal package on the 93 Rugger we had.
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# ¿ Mar 2, 2020 23:03 |
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everdave posted:Word, I'd love your input on whether to put this up for sale As-IS paint wise with decals, remove decals, or remove decals and have paint work done. This is a time capsule inside with the weird rubber floor covering installed and the seats encapsulated in plastic since new. There were a smoker but I have already removed the smell with ozone. Attaching a pic of the damaged paint. I would go over that with some compound and see if it comes off easily enough, or pay someone to do a real nice detail job on it. Is the paint itself missing or is there marks *on* the paint?
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# ¿ Mar 2, 2020 23:15 |
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MomJeans420 posted:Two weeks ago I did just the hood, front fascia, and front quarter panels of my SUV with Collinite 845 and a coat of Beadmaker the next day, since then it's been parked outside plus I drove through the mountains and hit tons of bugs. I was able to clean the front yesterday by just spraying it with a jet nozzle on the hose, a little bit of quick detailer and a towel for some of the bug guts, and the water beaded up so well I could dry it solely by using a leaf blower. I was so impressed I finished cleaning and claying the rest of the car, then applied Collinite 845 all over the rest of the car. This is what I imagine having a ceramic coating to be like, I'll see what I think next weekend but I think I'll be able to do a quick 10 minute hose + leaf blower wash and get the car 95% clean. Collinite holds up for months. 6th months or more in Florida parked outside but under a carport. It's super great.
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# ¿ May 4, 2020 20:04 |
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Digital_Jesus posted:I chuck them in the washer like anything else and dry them on whatever setting the dryer auto dries at. This is me and I can't tell the difference between my washed microfibers and brand new ones out of the packaging.
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# ¿ Sep 29, 2020 03:28 |
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Could always get a clear complete vinyl wrap. It will still get dirty but at least it won't get damaged.
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# ¿ Oct 10, 2020 01:16 |
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Big Taint posted:I’m sure I’ve said it in this thread and I’ll say it again: Bleche Wite is my favorite tire cleaner. Get the tire wet, spray it on, scrub, rinse, repeat until it stops turning brown. Makes tires look brand new. gently caress tire shine. quote:NOTE: Do not allow product to contact magnesium or aluminum wheels, painted or glass surfaces, eyewear, fabric and non-rubber items. Permanent damage can occur. USE ONLY AS PER LABEL DIRECTIONS. Man that aluminum warning really puts it right-out for me. How uh, serious is getting it on aluminum?
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# ¿ Jun 9, 2021 19:32 |
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Big Taint posted:I’m sure I’ve said it in this thread and I’ll say it again: Bleche Wite is my favorite tire cleaner. Get the tire wet, spray it on, scrub, rinse, repeat until it stops turning brown. Makes tires look brand new. gently caress tire shine. Going back to this, this stuff does indeed rock and my original concern with "aluminum" wheels isn't true, the coating on them keeps them looking good. Would like to point out though the instructions say to use on dry rubber, not to wet it first. Also if you are like me and find yourself dealing with 100% rubber mats all the time you can guess how well Bleche Wite works on those: Really freakin' good.
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# ¿ Jun 20, 2021 04:09 |
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I don't have a suggestion in what to use for the exterior but 303 is far better at the interior jobs. For that it is the best imho.
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2021 01:29 |
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Motronic posted:I mean....just look at most new cars.....they are largely orange peel. It's kinda pathetic. So then the next question is how is the paint on new Tacomas? If it's orange peel like most new cars then uhhh I question that cost. Paint protection, sure, but over $7,000 bucks? That deep details and waxes for years.
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# ¿ Aug 8, 2021 01:44 |
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Bape Culture posted:I wanted to rain x my shower screen but someone told me it might be toxic or something in that situation. Don’t suppose anyone knows? I Aquapel'd our shower glass and it's held up wonderfully for a couple years now. I'm not dead so ???
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# ¿ Oct 27, 2021 23:41 |
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Voltage posted:Thinking about renting one of these to give my extremely stained ridgeline seats a second shot at life before I just get seat covers - is this worth it or does anyone have other tips? https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/Karcher-Carpet-Spot-and-Stair-Cleaner-9-840-068-0/309005721 The first thing I'll use on fabric for any of the 25+ year old vehicles I get is this stuff I'll wear rubber gloves, moose this stuff on, rub it in with my hands then usually dethatch that green brush and use it directly on the whole bit of fabric, then blot the stain on a cloth or paper towel. If it needs more help, I'll steam it with that steamer above mentioned by Big Taint but always after I use this woolite stuff while it is still wet. I've tried a bunch of difference cleaners and techniques but this is the one that works the best. I've brought back some heinous fabric (including seats) using this process. You can usually find this Woolite at Lowes as well.
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# ¿ Dec 21, 2021 05:04 |
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I actually just came to the thread for a similar question. I picked up a salvage yard seat in surprisingly good condition but I figure I might as well clean it up before I put the seat in, and I had to lay it on its side anyway so the cart got dirt on the side of the seat. If I'm going this far with vehicle I'll have the seats out and will let them dry at least overnight. If it's warm sunny day (I'm in Florida) about 4~ hours in the sun gets them dry enough.
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2022 19:55 |
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MomJeans420 posted:I've never owned a new car or new wheels before so I haven't really worried about keeping them as clean as possible, but I just got some Work S1HCs and would like to try and keep them as clean as possible until they inevitably get scratched up off-road: I can't suggest how you ceramic coat them (before or after mounting) but I can recommend you actually do the ceramic. It's insane how easily a whole car is to clean when its been coated, including the wheels.
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# ¿ May 14, 2022 06:03 |
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bull3964 posted:I still find 303 too glossy when I tried it many moons ago. You're supposed to apply 303 then buff it off. If you don't do that then it remains on the surface since it doesn't evaporate or anything. I only bring it up because I don't think that at all, and 303 is super subtle when it comes to altering the surface of whatever I apply it to besides a 'looks newer than it did before' effect.
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2023 04:38 |
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MetaJew posted:Have any of y'all bought Aquapel recently, or another longish-term windshield coating that you liked? I'm sure you know this but be aware that there's been a lot of reports from aquapel on Amazon being fake. I bought a bunch a couple years ago and I'm on my last ampule. Is it not possible to get it directly?
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# ¿ Apr 7, 2023 21:26 |
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kliras posted:i have a white car that's absolutely covered in pollen over a couple of years at this point. i don't want to just try to wipe it away out of fear of scratching the car, but i don't know what it's going to take to dissolve it or make it easier to remove. add to this that it's the kind of car where dirt gets caught in all sorts of crevices. what's a good way to do remove the pollen? I'm having difficulty parsing what you are saying here. You have a white car that hasn't been washed in a few years with the same time amount of pollen on it -or- do you mean you have a car that's been washed normally, but always seems to have pollen on it and the surface of the car is gritty because of it?
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# ¿ Apr 30, 2023 02:45 |
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I didn't see it in your post but have you replaced your wipers at all?
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# ¿ Nov 16, 2023 23:42 |
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Not Wolverine posted:I want to remove spray paint from badges on my vehicle, I found that I could let WD-40 soak for about a minute and then scrub off the paint gently, I'm assuming this would also turbo gently caress my body paint (maybe automotive paint is higher quality than rattle can? Not a risk I really want to take). My plan is to try to only apply a small amount of WD-40 to the middle of the badge, and then tediously peel away paint near the edges close to the paint. How'd the paint get on the badges in the first place? Somehow the spray paint didn't get on the small areas inside the badge so presumably the badges come off somehow? Maybe they were painted before they were applied?
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# ¿ Jan 29, 2024 17:25 |
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# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 10:53 |
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Wicaeed posted:What's my best bet for getting rid of 50k+ miles of buildup on my otherwise-Chrome exhaust tips? http://www.nevrdull.com/ You want something along these lines, there are a few but this is *the* one I've used for a long time now. You can get it at any auto parts stores or even home improvement stores. While I've never done exhaust tips I have done countless chrome bits off various 25+ year old vehicles and it's always performed remarkably well. I've also had good luck with using the already mentioned 0000 steel wool with Brasso https://www.amazon.com/Brasso-76523-Multi-Purpose-Metal-Polish/dp/B00BILDIU4 KakerMix fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Mar 3, 2024 |
# ¿ Mar 3, 2024 08:24 |