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Any advice on those "headlight restoration" products? My Forester has headlights that are badly clouded from UV exposure, so I was thinking about using something to make them look a bit better. I was leaning towards the Sylvania kit ( http://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-38771-Headlight-Restoration-Kit/dp/B00429NKWK ) based on reviews I've seen online, but the main concern I have is that I'll need to repeat the process every few weeks once the effects wear off. Does anyone have experience or advice with clearing up UV damaged headlights?
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2012 08:00 |
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2024 03:21 |
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mod sassinator posted:I just used 3M's kit which attaches to a drill and got great results (use a corded drill since it takes a while). Followed it up with some sealant so we'll see how long it lasts. What kind of sealant did you use?
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2012 18:12 |
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Headlight question. I've got an 03 Forester that had seriously clouded headlights from spending a decade in Arizona. I used one of those headlight restoration kits (I decided on the Sylvania kit after looking at reviews online), and the headlights look a heck of a lot better, so I'd like to keep them looking that way. Is there any kind of protective film or spray I can apply to the lights to slow down the clouding process this time?
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# ¿ Feb 17, 2013 00:23 |
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Scott808 posted:Meguiar's has a headlight protectant out right now. Almost all the online sites I've seen it on have it for about the same price. My local WalMart has it for a bit cheaper. You'll have to reapply this regularly. Thanks. The reviews for the Meguiar's stuff seem to be pretty mixed, but it looks like the RenuLite works really well (even when done by amateurs), so I'll spend the $45 on that.
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# ¿ Feb 17, 2013 04:21 |
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DevCore posted:
I had similarly bad headlights on my Forester, and got really good results with a Sylvania headlight restoration kit. I think it cost me about $15, and took about 30 minutes to do both headlights. After about 16 months (much of that in Arizona, without covered parking), there are a couple of small spots that are starting to haze up again (probably because I didn't get the sealer on them very well initially), but the lenses still look really good overall.
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# ¿ Apr 4, 2014 06:03 |
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El Scotch posted:Windshield question: after cleaning both sides of the front windshield I've discovered that much of what I thought was dirt, etc is actually itty-bitty pits and scratches absolutely covering the windshield, due to the horrid winter road sand, etc. Check with your insurance company, since windshields are covered with zero deductible in some states, and in other cases the windshield may be covered under comprehensive insurance, so it doesn't affect your rates. I had to replace the windshield on my '15 Mazda3 after it got horrible pitting from sanded roads, and State Farm covered it via the comprehensive policy, so my out of pocket cost was $50 (for a $400 windshield), and my rates won't go up since it counts as an "act of God".
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# ¿ Apr 24, 2016 22:07 |
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What's the best way to smooth out touch up paint? I'm finding mixed opinions online, but it sounds like my best bet is to use 2-3000 grit sandpaper to wet sand it and then and polishing compound to get more of a gloss look to it. The base paint is a dark blue metallic, so I realize it'll never match completely, but I'm just trying to make the repainted area (it was a scratch down to primer before) look a little less obvious.
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2020 22:53 |
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Thanks! I wet sanded the area with 2000 grit, and then went over it with Meguiar's ultimate compound. In direct lighting, you can see there was some paint work done (the scratch was down to primer and ran the entire width of the hood, so I'm not surprised), but the sanding and polishing smoothed the touch up paint significantly, and it looks way better than it did before.
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# ¿ Mar 12, 2020 21:02 |
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I had Xpel headlight film applied on my Mazda3 after one of the lights started to haze up, and it's kept the lights looking fine for the last five years, despite the car being parked outside. I think I paid about $200 to get it done (you can buy the kits to DIY for about $70-80), and it's got a 10 year warranty with the installation. The film is slightly visible if you know exactly where to look and are standing right next to the car, but it's basically invisible from more than 3 feet away, and it's held up very well in the five years I've had it installed.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2020 16:15 |
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dangling pointer posted:
I run mine through on a cold cycle with a detergent that doesn't have fabric softener, and then either air dry them or run them through the dryer on low.
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# ¿ Sep 29, 2020 02:39 |
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2024 03:21 |
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If you dry them, don't use dryer sheets (the fabric softener clogs up the fibers), and be aware that microfiber towels stick to things like a sonofabitch because of how much static they generate.
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# ¿ Sep 29, 2020 03:17 |