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kimbo305 posted:Two super philistine questions: Use a quick detailing product and a microfiber if you want to wipe your paint down. That will at least help buffer the grit against scratching your paint too badly. Really you should just wash though.
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May 1, 2012 20:42
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 06:28 |
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I use plain water for claying. I compared plain water versus plain water with a couple drops of dawn and found that plain water was smoother.
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Jun 9, 2012 18:44
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BTW you can buy Aquapel in lots of 10 for like 30 bucks on Ebay. I definitely recommend it. It has a slight 'break-in' the first couple times you use your wipers but it really works well. It outlasts Rain-X by several orders of magnitude. I could really care less about the beading, in my experience having clean glass is just as good. What I really like about it is how clean it keeps your glass. Nothing can stick to it and your wipers are able to remove 100% of dirt with a quick squirt. You only have to apply it once or twice a year and it is worth it. Also a little-known product called Sprayaway with an old logo in aeresol cans is slightly better than Invisible Glass. If It's available I always grab the Sprayaway first, especially since invisible glass doesn't seem to foam like it used to. revmoo fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jun 10, 2012 |
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Jun 10, 2012 20:33
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I dunno dude, I don't think I've ever seen a 1999 Taurus in a junkyard.
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Jun 20, 2012 19:38
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Pretty sure you use static to pick dust off the paint with those. Confirm?
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Jul 16, 2012 02:42
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Zamboni thread!
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Aug 10, 2012 02:27
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Claybar would probably work but what I would try is soaking a towel in goo-gone and then letting the towel sit against the paint for a few hours.
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Sep 11, 2012 21:40
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I doubt that needs paint, it just needs a pro. Your main concern is staining of the clearcoat, not getting it off.
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Sep 12, 2012 00:07
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I dunno if I bought the wrong brand or what but aircraft remover doesn't remove poo poo. I tried it on a piece of test sheet metal that I rattlecanned and even after 15 minutes it wasn't coming off. Also it says 'not for use on aircraft.' What the hell?
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Feb 12, 2013 02:44
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That looks like clearcoat damage. Not much you can do for it other than keep the paint nourished so it doesn't get worse. Keep it sealed and or waxed and clean, use a car wash product that will condition the paint. If you use a colored wax you can probably hide it a bit.
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Apr 11, 2013 14:45
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I'd hit the bird dropping with the strongest paint cleaner I could find and an agressive clay.
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May 7, 2013 23:29
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You working with single-stage paint? M#7 seems to be a SS kind of polish.
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Jun 18, 2013 00:28
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Polymerized Cum posted:What powerful, super bad-for-the-environment glass cleaner can get really stubborn water spots off my side view mirrors? Newspaper. I've started using newspaper+invisible glass. It's incredible.
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Jul 20, 2013 13:45
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Badmana posted:2 months ago I purchased a new 2013 Toyota Venza. I tend to keep my cars for a long time so I'm doing my best to make it look like new for at least 12-15 years. That is a lot of money to spend on paint sealant. I don't know the product, but I do know that price is in the range of high end professional paint sealants, the kind that come in a mahogany box signed by the manufacturer. For an economy commuter car I would probably go with Opti-coat instead. It's essentially another layer of very durable clearcoat. It's a permanent one-time job and can be waxed overtop. With that said, keep using your sealant I'm sure it will do a fine job for the next couple of years, depending on how much product you have left over. When the water stops evenly beading is a good signal it's time to re-apply. For most paint sealants you want to (twice a year or so) wash with Dawn dish soap, claybar, wash again, and then apply paint sealant, allowing 24 hours to cure. Since you're using a presumably specialty product you should go with the manufacturer instructions. You can apply it right over the existing sealant if you want, but you'll have better results fully stripping the car first. Plus it gives you a chance to remove paint contaminants with the claybar. Use ONLY automotive wash that is designed to be wax safe to prolong the sealant's life. Dawn should only be used when stripping the paint protection. Keep your calipers from rusting by keeping them clean.
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Sep 17, 2013 18:06
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Ozium works extremely well. If that doesn't work you want an ozone generator. Also parking the car outside with the windows rolled down all day long helps.
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Sep 23, 2013 13:58
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Best way to fix streaky glass is to use a razorblade and then claybar, then use something like isopropyl alcohol to clean and then finish with Invisible Glass. Also keep a dry, new microfiber handy for a final polish. Also newspaper is more abrasive than cloths. I've moved almost totally over to using that instead.
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Sep 24, 2013 17:59
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I actually really like the Armor-all foam tire product. It doesn't leave the tires greasy and keeps them looking brand new for up to a couple months. The golden standard for good DD car care is roughly: - Thoroughly detail car twice a year using Dawn dish soap, claybar, and then polymer paint sealant - Use quick detailer with microfibers as needed for water spots, bird poo poo, touch-ups, etc - Wash regularly with a specific car-wash soap. I like the moisturizing kind but it's harder to rinse. Wax is optional but recommended - Be extremely careful any time you make contact with the paint. Use the 2-bucket method, clean wash mitts, dry carefully - Don't do much else. You can often do more harm than good with a lot of products and methods.
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Oct 16, 2013 22:50
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The Armor All aerosol foam is not the same as the Armor All tire shine product that everyone knows and hates. It is wipe-free and does not leave any shine at all, nor does it sling all over your car while driving.
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Oct 22, 2013 23:54
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That's pretty amazing. Do you use that totally in leu of sealant?
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Nov 17, 2013 18:45
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So I got a PC buffer for Christmas and I need pads and polish. Here's what I have in my Amazon cart so far: 3x Lake Country Yellow 3x Lake Country Blue 3x Lake Country Green m205, m105, and ultimate polish. I'm looking for a well-rounded set so I won't have to buy anything for a while. Am I on the right track with these items?
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Dec 28, 2013 01:22
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Cool didn't know that. What liquids or pads (if any) should I add? More compound, or more finishing polishes? Do I need more steps in the process? I'll probably do 5-10 different cars in the first year. My first test project will probably be an ex Civic with Maaco single-stage that is surprising uniform but totally matte. Otherwise, most of the jobs I'll be doing would probably be considered mid-range in the cutting need, ie there will be clearcoat and it will be intact but will have never been corrected or maintained. I think I'd rather err on the deep cut side, because most of the cars I'll be doing won't be supercars and won't need to be finished off in the same way.
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Dec 28, 2013 02:15
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Same here, bomb a car with it, let it sit for a day closed up, and then let it sit for 16+ hours outside with all the doors open/windows rolled-down.
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Mar 5, 2014 17:09
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I know you can polish them with a rotary buffer and cerium oxide, I've been meaning to get the stuff to do that.
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Jun 17, 2014 23:17
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InitialDave posted:Not all Armor All stuff is crap. I like their aerosol foam tyre dressing, for example. Agreed, that stuff works great. For glass cleaning I go with Invisible Glass or Sprayaway. Both are about equally good.
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Jun 18, 2014 14:34
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I'd probably hit that with diluted rubbing alcohol to prep it and then tape off the surrounding area and use rubbing compound or headlight polish on it. If that doesn't take then I'd remove the cluster and wetsand with 2000 grit following up with polish. Wait for someone else to concur before following my recommendation though!
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Jun 28, 2014 19:43
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Heh, so I've been buying microfibers for a long time and basically tossing them and making a huge waste. I at least managed to keep the lesser-soiled ones in a milk crate. I finally washed them today, hot water and oxiclean with extra rinse and no drier sheet. They came out surprisingly clean, so now I have a stack of 40 towels ready to go.
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Oct 3, 2014 22:00
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I need to detail the 4Runner shortly. What pad would y'all recommend for a 6" lake country backing plate using M205? The paint is in excellent condition I just want to add that little bit of extra low-risk shine.
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Oct 10, 2014 22:01
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At least with single-stage paint you don't get that oxidized clearcoat carcinoma effect.
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Oct 29, 2014 17:23
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Dear god claying a 4Runner sucks. There's. So. Much. Surface. Area.
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Nov 5, 2014 22:11
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Plain car wash. If that doesn't take it off then you probably are lacking in paint protection. Clay it and put a good sealant on it.
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Nov 24, 2014 01:27
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I've never had a problem with that and I keep all of my supplies in a freezing garage. I know you're not supposed to but I've never seen any issues.
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Jan 31, 2015 16:49
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InitialDave posted:I like Armor All aerosol foam. Specifically the aerosol foam, not the other kinds they make. Yes this stuff is the poo poo. Wouldn't touch any other Armor All product either, this stuff is an exception. You get that black "fresh rubber" look rather than a shiny or greasy look. Also the label says not to wipe off but I do--let it set for a few minutes and then wipe off with a microfiber.
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Mar 24, 2015 22:05
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If it's paint transfer I'd use a claybar, then a magic eraser, then rubbing compound up to finishing polish. Top it off with fresh sealant and it'll be gone. You can do it all with microfiber rags, don't need a buffer. Also big ups to the Zymol leather cleaner + conditioner combo. Works great.
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Apr 5, 2015 21:15
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fps_bill posted:
Thorough wash with Dawn dish soap, claybar, cut with M105 and wool pad, finish with M205, finishing polish if you desire, top with paint sealant. As long as the clearcoat is intact it'll look brand new.
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Jul 6, 2015 16:58
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:I usually use Sonax but I'm out right now. Is there a wheel cleaner I can pick up at O'Reilly/Advance/Wal-Mart that actually works well? Need to clean my car this weekend. The armor all wheel/tire cleaner in a spray bottle is actually not terrible.
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Jul 25, 2015 01:38
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blk posted:perhaps switch to sealant instead of wax. Yes 100% do this. I think your assessment of the paint needing to be conditioned is accurate also.
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Aug 9, 2015 20:35
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blk posted:I have some hard rear end water spots on my Saabaru's tinted windows. I've tried washing them off and using Invisible Glass. I'm thinking of trying magic eraser next but don't know how tint works and don't want to damage it. Is tint only applied to the inside of car windows? Dont use abrasives on glass! Try white vinegar.
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Sep 27, 2015 03:48
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Veeb0rg posted:Could use a little advice. I pulled 2 light grey cloth seats out of the junkyard this weekend. One has some grease and grime smudges on it. Any tips on the best way to clean that? Mild detergent and a pressure washer on a hot, sunny, dry day.
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Sep 28, 2015 14:57
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Jaguars! posted:I want to do a swirl removal as per the OP with the Meg's ultimate. Once I've applied the polish, I take it I need a wax to finish? What should I get for a daily driver where durability is more important than show car finish? Any brand name sealant. Tech wax 2.0 is good if you want something available everywhere. Keep it dry 24 hours after application to cure, otherwise it's the same as wax.
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Nov 5, 2015 02:29
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 06:28 |
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So I was peeling a warning sticker off my new bike which has flat white paint, and it left an outline. So I used some cutting compound to polish it out, which worked....too well. Now I have a shiny spot on the top of the gas tank. Does anyone know a way I can flatten out the paint in a way that will look consistent with the rest?
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Feb 2, 2016 20:19
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