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I've got a Juki-LU 563. It's old and has had some mechanical issues like all old machines, but it does its job. I got it on ebay for around $800 I believe. I'd say searching e-bay for industrial sewing machines and looking up reviews for each will probably be your best bet! Let me know if you have specific questions about the functionality or anything.
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Jan 21, 2014 00:17
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Yeah! I tried to find pictures of the thickest stuff I sew, which is probably 3 pieces of shell cordovan together. (I make wallets and stuff, so nothing too complicated).  These are of course not the best pictures ever, but you can kind of see the edge thickness. And actually on these wallets I go from 2 layers of leather to 3 layers without issue at all (after finding out your thread tension sweet spot). I'd say the 3 pieces of shell could be about a quarter of an inch thick. I could test out a half inch for you on some scrap if you want!
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Jan 21, 2014 06:40
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Hmmm, my first thought is that you will definitely want a walking foot. I think they provide better control and there's no reason to settle for something that's going to mar the bottom of your leather. However, don't jump into one that is way over your budget, because I'm pretty sure you could get something for a lot less if you take your time and scout everything out.
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Jan 22, 2014 23:03
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I'm gonna say that there's not much you can do there, unfortunately. Though I could just be thinking inside the box, I'm curious if anyone has any ideas. It looks like you just need to find a jacket that actually fits you. That one looks really really big on you from the pictures. However, depending on how thick the leather is, you could try taking it to a tailor so they can take it in to your actual measurements. Not sure if any tailors in your area are equipped with leather sewing machines, but it's definitely worth a shot. And they may be able to point you in the direction of a shop that does if they don't have the machines.
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Feb 13, 2014 03:36
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hayden. posted:What's the deal with cordovan shell leather? It looks super stiff and hard. Is that because of some sort of finish they use on it? Shell cordovan is so resilient just because of the structure of the part of the horsehide it comes from. There are very small areas on the butt of a horse called "shells" that have a unique fiber structure, only equine animals have it. So its not so much the tanning process that makes it so stiff, its just naturally how it occurs. Its very dense and it pretty much never breaks down. It's expensive too because its so resilient and also so rare. And in addition to that the tanning process takes like 6 months... So prices are understandably pretty steep. (Plus it can be so shiny. Soooo shiny) So it ends up mostly being used for high-end shoes. I wouldn't describe it as feeling hard perse, but it definitely holds its shape. I've been using it for making wallets which is also awesome because they'll essentially last forever (if my stitching holds up) AND get killer patinas. cloudy fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Mar 10, 2014 |
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Mar 10, 2014 07:01
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As far as I know Horween is the only Shell Cordovan producer in the US (so if you're not in the US prices may vary). I read online that Nick Horween says it's about $100 per square foot. So depending on how much shell you want to use in the wallet, and how big the wallet is... It could vary. They don't sell it by the foot though, you have to buy an entire shell which would be about $300 (a little more or less depending on the actual size of the piece you get).
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Mar 10, 2014 18:01
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Pagan posted:
Having a bit of a hard time understanding exactly what you're trying to do... But here's my suggestion. Maybe it will give you an idea on how to go forward even if I'm not understanding it correctly! Sew anything you need to sew separately on the back first, where you don't want a stitch to show on the front. Then glue down everything you need in the appropriate places, wrapping your big piece around the front. Then do a final stitch wherever you wanted it. Basically you're just using the glue to hold down whatever you need while you stitch it all with a single stitch. I would advise against using only glue (and no stitch) to hold anything together. Alternatively you might be able to achieve this with no glue and only using clips to hold stuff in place, but I'm not sure exactly how everything is laid out, so your mileage may vary.
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Mar 29, 2014 23:04
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That story is disgusting but kind of funny in a comedy of errors kind of way. I'm sorry  But I laughed!Another place you can check for leather supply and tools and stuff is a shoe repair supply store. I live in Chicago and for some reason there are no leatherworking supply stores in the city. There is a Tandy store in the suburbs but gently caress that. So I just checked out a shoe repair supply store recently and they had thread and leather and everything. A very interesting place to just find weird random stuff that you can use, if you're in to that "stumble upon stuff that might inspire you" method.
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Jul 11, 2014 15:32
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Bringing up glue again... Is there a brand that you guys recommend? preferably available to the US. I'm realizing for one of the products I make, glue is going to be a huge help in how I stitch it (hopefully).
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Sep 10, 2014 18:54
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I work in (not for) a tannery, and as far as I can tell they don't really care too much for individual buyers who don't buy a lot. Top priority goes to bigger companies buying the expensive stuff, of course. So you'll probably have to wait a really long time and it'll cost a lot. Doesn't mean you can't do it... Just that it might be annoying & expensive.
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Oct 3, 2014 16:15
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Very well done! Great video editing as well. What's the device you use at 4:23 (and once earlier in the video) called?
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Nov 17, 2015 20:54
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legendof posted:Where could I buy a locking post? They're those little posts with a hole in them you can put a small padlock through, like you sometimes see on diaries for kids. (picture in lino below) I've looked around local shops and haven't had any luck. https://ohiotravelbag.com/shop/search.aspx?term=locking%20post#f=&p=1&s= Not sure if they have any restriction on how much stuff you have to buy at a time, but I get a lot of my hardware through them.
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Jul 7, 2017 02:03
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I use buckleguy, mostly for the convenience of easy-to-find matching finishes and a well-made website. They also have contemporary styles. I'm sure you could find cheaper elsewhere though, especially if you order a large quantity. But their quality is just fine.
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Apr 28, 2020 05:39
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Yeah, if you follow the links in the descriptions it leads you to the setting tools they recommend. If for some reason those setting tools don't work definitely try to get a refund!
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May 18, 2021 17:39
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Every once in awhile I'll do very precise edge painting with really thin dye. I've used that edge roller and I liked it. However I also like just a regular tiny little sponge on a stick, probably the same amount, sooooo. Whatever works!
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Sep 1, 2021 04:22
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This might be an obvious suggestion, but did you replace the blade before starting? Gotta make sure it's fresh! But if it's soft and squishy, some stretching might occur no matter what you do. Maybe you have a maker space nearby that has a big motorized bell skiver? Those might be better for squishy stuff in my experience due to the rotating blade. Also, after a cursory Google, it looks like you can find some cheaper table-mounted splitters than the weaver one. They may not be high quality but it's an option. Would definitely cause some stretching though. cloudy fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Oct 9, 2021 |
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Oct 9, 2021 17:33
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True! Didn't know if it was a worry for hardware sizing or anything, but you're probably right!
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Oct 10, 2021 00:20
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Yeah, that looks awesome! My initial thoughts were: sandpaper. soaking in water, and beating the crap out of it with whatever (hammer?). I don't actually have any experience weathering leather, so those would be the things I would try on some test pieces!
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Aug 5, 2022 17:27
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