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Dirty Beluga
Apr 17, 2007

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Fun Shoe

kastein posted:

Got some more jeep parts out of the yard and living room, some more debris cleaned up, and another ledger bracket hung last night. Not much progress, but getting the jeep parts out involved reviving two separate dead vehicles since the one with the crane attached to it was parked in by the other one, so it took longer than expected.



Time to go home and either clean more or weld another ledger bracket up, depending on how it feels when I try to put my welding jacket on over two day old arc flash burns.

those brackets are cool, how does it work with code in your area? I'd imagine they aren't a 'normal' element found in such houses, Do they need to send out a special inspector to check your welds, etc?

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Dirty Beluga
Apr 17, 2007

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Fun Shoe

kastein posted:

I'm less worried about the ants and more about what part of my house they happen to be eating right now. Especially since I thought I had found all the active nests and eliminated them.

Carpenter ants only eat soft, rotting wood, Relax and let them demo the old rotten studs for you!

Dirty Beluga
Apr 17, 2007

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Fun Shoe

kastein posted:

Last weekend it was beautiful outside one day, so I took that as an excuse to make the radiant heating panels for the first few bedrooms.

Closeup:


The tubing (1/2" PEX) is 0.625" OD, so I used a Whiteside #1075A 19/32" "straight plywood bit" intended to route slots for undersize nominal plywood, which has a cutting width of 0.594". PEX tubing ~30 thou larger easily wedges through the slot down into the 0.75" round opening, where it stays because of its springiness and the larger radius. If anyone else wants to make their own radiant heat U-bend panels and save a boatload of cash this way, here's what you do:
- buy 1 Whiteside #1075A 19/32 straight plywood router bit, or equivalent
- buy 1 Amana 45964 3/8" radius ball end cutter, or equivalent
- get a circle jig for your router that can do a 4" radius
- buy enough 3/4" BCX or MDO plywood (I used BCX in this case) to make enough U-bends for your project. This depends entirely on your radiant design but mine seem to be coming out to around 45 90-degree corners per ~200sf room, so around a dozen full routed circles per room. 18 circles fit onto a 4x8 sheet of plywood.
- lay out a grid on the plywood, 16" on center for 8" U-bends. You want to do this on the C side of the plywood, the B side should be down so you're routing from the C side, because the centers of each circle need to be connected to the outside of the circle by the unbroken B-grade face ply not the patchy knotholed C-grade face ply. Start with an 8" measurement, so your lines on the 4' dimension are at 8", 24", and 40" and your lines on the 8' dimension are at 8", 24", 40", 56", 72", and 88".
- drill a hole of the proper diameter for your circle jig's center pin on each line crossing
- set your circle jig for 4" radius/8" diameter
- route a 19/32" slot to the appropriate depth on each circle. My experience is that it's best to do two or more passes and aim for a final depth of around 9/16" to 5/8".
- put the ball end cutter in your router and set depth so that when plunged fully, it cuts 0.65" or so into the plywood, I aimed to cut about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way through the last ply of the plywood.
- route the round pass on each circle. Unfortunately this has to be done in one pass.

I spend about $30 per sheet of 3/4 BCX plus an hour's work (MDO is about double that cost.) The tooling needed cost me about $65 (plus the router, which was a Christmas present). Each sheet contains 36 U-bends, so I'm spending around 83 cents a bend, while a company like Blue Ridge Company charges ~$6.25 per U-bend. It's looking like I'll save about $800 by spending 4-5 hours in the yard with my router turning plywood into sawdust.

Once you have your radiant layout done, cut the sheet up to make as many panels of U-bends and 90 degree bends as you need. Fin

thanks for listing all the parts! I'm looking to add radiant to my kitchen and want to do so without a difference in floor height - will this be your actual subfloor or does it go over the subfloor?

Dirty Beluga
Apr 17, 2007

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kastein posted:

It goes over the subfloor - nowhere near enough strength left after routing the panels to be subflooring, and there is no wood at all under the straightaways because you rip 3/4 ply into strips top go between the pipes. You also need u-channel or omega-channel heatspreader panels to distribute the heat more evenly.

gooootttcchaa ok that makes more sense.

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