|
When they renovated San Francisco City Hall, they put the entire structure on roller bearings. It's called "base isolation" and it's cool and good. https://blog.jumpstartrecovery.com/base-isolation-in-san-francisco/ Japan has thousands of buildings on base isolation, by far the most of any country in the world. 
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2019 22:40
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 22:30 |
|
|
Basically it works like that but in the reverse: the ground moves around while the mass of the building and its momentum helps to keep it in one place.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2019 23:11
|
|
|
I for one can't imagine a situation where I get to design and build my own house, and I don't put in secret passages.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 7, 2019 22:52
|
|
|
Unless it's an actually mobile house, I don't really "get" tiny houses, the incremental cost of making like an 800 square foot house instead of a 400 square foot house is relatively small, while the livability difference is huge. The high surface area to volume ratio means they're not particularly more heat efficient etc. either.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 8, 2019 21:28
|
|
|
So two stories on 20x20? That might work out OK.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 9, 2019 03:36
|
|
|
over in the woodworking thread we know that even nice clean wood is very bad to breathe in, always be masked when doing sawdusty things, no exceptions
|
|
#
¿
Nov 20, 2019 22:01
|
|
|
It's worth noting that not all wood butchery produces sawdust. Some of it just makes wood chips, which are heavier and don't float around and get in your lungs so much. Also, if you are working outside in a light breeze, you may be carrying the dust away from your face enough that a mask isn't necessary. Still, it's a prudent precaution. In my shop I have decent dust collection using a shop vac for the power tools, and I find the worst dusty operation is hand sanding. The finer the sandpaper, the worse the tiny particulates floating everywhere in the air for a long time can be.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 21, 2019 23:31
|
|
|
kastein posted:And my usual "just buy one" route isn't acceptable here because 280 bucks for a one time use (till we get to Washington) saw isn't really in the budget. Just as a general note, it might be worth checking your local equipment rental places. Sometimes when you only need a tool for a quick job, renting a professional-grade one for $20 is better than either buying a consumer-grade $300 tool, or making do with the wrong tool.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 6, 2020 20:40
|
|
|
I'd be seriously tempted to just hire someone. Like for a lot of this build Kastein has gone way above code and probably wouldn't have gotten that quality from a sub, but mudding is just mudding and a pro is gonna do it way faster and get the same or better result.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 30, 2020 19:34
|
|
|
I'd be concerned about using really wet lumber, surely it will shrink as it dries. Are you accounting for a certain amount of shrinkage?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2020 21:21
|
|
|
fair enough, I've done woodworking but not so much home construction, and in woodworking you gotta get your wood drier before you make poo poo or it's gonna shrink and warp and split, so that's where my instinct is
|
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2020 22:52
|
|
|
kastein posted:The reason they look nice is my cellphone camera blows rear end and you can't see the up to 1/16" gaps visible along the right end of most of the treads I think you might need those gaps, just to cope with seasonal changes in the wood length. This is why floorboards are left with a small gap where they meet the wall, and that gap is covered with trim. You should just declare to your audience that those gaps are intentional, sir. Also when that elmers runs out, get yourself some titebond for wood glue. Read up on the differences between titebond I, II, and III, and then get a bottle of each and you'll always be in wood glue heaven. Are you gonna strip/refinish that newell post? Because if so, you could strip it and then actually bring the base square; if not, I'm wondering how you'll match the finish with your new rail. Nick Offerman is a skilled fine woodworker who got started by building stages for stage productions and then graduated to doing stuff like hand-building canoes out of tiny strips of wood. He can 100% be counted on to do Quality Work, it's his mantra. Adam Savage is a prop builder who does stuff that looks OK, but he's an absolute monkey in his shop and if you watch a few of his videos, you'll definitely see him doing all kinds of dumbass stuff, including ignoring the need for PPE, misusing tools, and using prop-builder techniques instead of long-established standards that an actual craftsman would use. I love the guy for his charisma and energy, and his general attitude and approach to life is excellent, but dear god don't copy how he makes things.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2020 03:58
|
|
|
 I'm not a ducting expert but I imagine it might be a good idea to wedge some foam or something in between the duct and the pipes where it contacts that conduit and that drainpipe, just due to the potential for vibration?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 12, 2020 20:18
|
|
|
kastein posted:How much do HVAC installers typically make, specifically around the Gig Harbor WA area, if you know? I wouldn't mind doing this kind of stuff, though I'm probably way too slow right now, even if my work is high enough quality. There's union shops in the seattle area, and if you're young enough to apprentice in, you could be making union wages. Even apprentice wages are decent and once you hit journeyman, it's a solid career choice. https://ualocal32.com/careers-trades These guys could give you their wage scale, I would assume. I don't know for the Seattle area, but in the SF bay area there's always work for HVAC specialists. But keep in mind a lot of the work is commercial/industrial.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 19, 2020 22:17
|
|
|
Yup staging is the way to go, don't just buy throwaway poo poo furniture. A staging company will have a warehouse full of nice stuff and ideally someone skilled at picking what to put in the house and where. It costs money for sure but it's well worth it.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 31, 2020 19:48
|
|
|
The Vashon Till is a formation of glacial till. Glacial tills vary in exact behavior, but they're all basically a mix compacted bits of rock and sand, all jumbled together. They are complicated. Each one is a little different. Some are extremely compacted and are basically hardpan. I do not know how buildable the Vashon Till is generally, or specifically on your property. You said you got some geotechincal work done, was that solely for the well, or have you had an assessment of the site for the purposes of building a house on it yet? There are ways to mitigate the affects of ground liquefaction. They cost money and involve compromises of construction design. It's all about how much risk you can afford to mitigate, basically. Since the late 90s, washington and oregon states have both imposed residential construction codes intended to set minimums for earthquake safety. It should be understood that "building safety" when it comes to earthquakes is about the survival of people inside the building long enough for them to evacuate, and not about survival of the building itself - a building that doesn't pancake, but has to be condemned, may have met or exceeded the standard. I, personally, would not rely on those and would insist on significantly more safety factor than the code minimum. However, given who we're talking about here, I rather suspect that'll be the case for this home anyway. Also, pay for earthquake insurance. Yes, it has a huge deductible, that's the point - it's for catastrophic damage that wipes out the entire value of the structure, not for a little tremor that causes a mere $10k of damage. e. Here's a full-text primer, if you feel like getting in way over your head in technical geology jargon: https://www.icevirtuallibrary.com/doi/full/10.1680/jgere.18.00020 "The engineering properties of glacial tills". Clarke; Geotechnical Research, Volume 5 Issue 4, December 2018, pp. 262-277 e. Oooh, there's also this, which is specifically about the Vashon Till: quote:Vashon Till is pretty firm stuff, having a consistency reminiscent of concrete. The engineers said vertical walls up to 50 feet high have been cut through this layer without collapse or erosion because the till is so solid, having been packed down by the weight of ice more than half a mile thick. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Dec 17, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Dec 17, 2021 02:02
|
|
|
Shows the edges of the subfloor, so you don't try to drive a nail into the gap between the plywood, I think?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2022 08:28
|
|
|
kastein posted:This is full thickness woven bamboo, so you can't nail it down, it's glue only and doesn't snap together, plain old tongue and groove. The tape keeps adjacent pieces snug while you put the next area together as it all floats around on 1/8” of urethane adhesive. Once you've got a decent block (I usually do 3 or 4 rows) done you can relax and stop taping almost every corner on almost every piece as you do it and just do 5 or 6 rows then snug it up one last time and slap tape across it all. Then once you have it all done you use poly wedges against the bottom of the far wall to make sure the last few rows stay put, check all your end gaps, do a last check for urethane smears and fingerprints on the face of the boards, wipe them off with special solvent rags, roll it with a floor roller, make sure it's not coming up anywhere, put weights on any spots that seem problematic (ideally, this isn't necessary at all, 3/16" in 10ft is the max surface variation) and leave it the hell alone for a day or two to cure. Oh. Gosh. Well, my guess was way off! It looked sorta like the tape pattern followed the edges of the subfloor in the previous photo, but that was probably just coincidence.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 23, 2022 00:43
|
|
|
I really want to go visit the boat too, but I assume he's mostly only got time for people who are showing up to do a few month's work, at least these days. Maybe once it's launched?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 25, 2022 03:14
|
|
|
kastein posted:I hung the first kitchen cabinet because it was in my way. Now it's not in my way and I can put things in it. Something about this cabinet flush against the wall is bothering me. Does the cabinet door open against the window there? Will it still fit once you add trim around the window cutout?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 7, 2022 06:54
|
|
|
kastein posted:It does, and it'll still open far enough, honestly I rarely open it further than 60 degrees or so anyways. There will be a counter under the cabinet as well as under the window it opens against, so non giants will be reaching anyways. I fully expect the next owner to pull all these cabinets out and replace them within a year of buying the place. I wasn't about to spend much time making filler plates and stuff. Fair enough! The next owner really ought to have at least one thing they can shake their fist at PO about, and given how insanely thorough you've been on everything else, this is a pretty drat minor quibble.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 8, 2022 20:10
|
|
|
As a woodworker (hobbyist) I will promote templating as always, always being worth it. In other words, to the maximum extent possible, do your weird angle stuff in cardboard or 1/8" door skin or similar before committing to cuts on expensive wood.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 12, 2022 03:32
|
|
|
There are, actually, ways to make wood longer, but they involve using paint at the end to hide your shame. Also I think that easing pointing the wrong way is something almost nobody will ever notice.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 21, 2022 18:52
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 22:30 |
|
|
kastein posted:High efficiency washer dryer hookup. I started putting that in when we still thought we might stay here because my wife likes high efficiency machines more and it saves walking up and down so many stairs, and we were just using the basement machines till they died. Next owner gets the machines and both types of hookups, it's their choice what they use. I almost don't want to say anything, but: it's going to suck opening a front-loader in that space, the door needs to swing wider than 90 degrees just to get stuff in and out because of the way the door sort of bulges in and out of most (all?) machines. e.g.:  But then, that's the next owner's problem, lol
|
|
#
¿
Aug 13, 2022 01:35
|
|