|
Balls. I was really expecting 30 series news from nvidia today. I am building a new computer that I won't really be able to finish for a couple months due to me wanting a specific case which is backordered to hell. (Dan Case A4-SFX) I will likely get the case sometime in July or August. I was expecting to hear a release date for the 30 series today, so I would know when I could complete my build. With that up in the air all of a sudden, I am wondering what my options are now. I could get a 2080 super or Ti in the meantime, but I am worried about having to sell that when the 30 series drops.
|
#
¿
May 16, 2020 03:30
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 03:56 |
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:comedy 570 or 580 to tide you over at min settings/with resolution scaling enabled? I have a card that's fairly capable, but I had to put an aftermarket cooler on it because it came with a blower and holy poo poo, gently caress that noise. With the aftermarket cooler it wont fit in my new case, so that's crap. Plus my new computer is going to be pretty high end and a card that has performance that was good 4 years ago isn't really super awesome today. It's completely irrational and emotional, but part of me feels like it would taint my new build to put that card in it. At this point I actually have all the parts except the case, power supply, and video card. I could throw the new parts in my old case with my old video card, but I really don't want to do that unless I have to.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2020 04:01
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:I mean, you know the options. My card has this monstrosity on it: https://www.newegg.com/white-arctic-cooling-accel-x3/p/N82E16835186068 And my case is going to be this hilariously tiny thing: https://www.dan-cases.com/dana4.php It looks like I could certainly run my current video card with the side of the case off. I originally had a GTX 1080 which died a little less than a year ago, and I replaced it with an AMD RX 5700 as that was the new hotness and the cheapest option that was faster than what I had just lost, but oh god I am so done with buying any AMD video cards ever again. Even if the card technically is plenty fast, AMD can't do drivers for poo poo and I am seeing plenty of situations where I have performance issues or instability where my 1080 didn't, despite it being a newer, stronger card. I wouldn't normally upgrade a video card so soon, but I just want to be done with my current card. I originally upgraded the cooler not just because it was loud, but because I know blowers are crap and I thought maybe the card was overheating when this brand new card would crash occasionally. Yes I went through the process of cleaning the old nvidia drivers before installing the new card. And yeah, I know my options, I am just not a big fan of them. I was really hoping the 30 series launch would coincide pretty closely with when I expect to get my case so it could all come together at the same time. I'll have to pick a lesser option now I am sure.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2020 06:15
|
|
Run it in the old case. Put the blower cooler back and use it. Buy a cheap placeholder and suffer a bit in the meantime. Buy something good now and take a big chunk of depreciation after a few months. Or don't put it together till you have everything.
|
I'll probably find someone I know in person to just give it to honestly. The cooler install wasn't my prettiest work, and I wouldn't want to sell it to some rando who then looks at it and thinks 'what the gently caress?' even though it's been more stable after the cooler install than with the stock cooler (though this is likely to be drivers more than anything)
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2020 06:32
|
|
|
CaptainSarcastic posted:Nvidia has released some poo poo drivers, but I remember suffering through poo poo ATI drivers and software just because the hardware was so much better than Nvidia's at the time. I'll take a company that occasionally has bad drivers (because it's software development, that just happens) but I have had my RX 5700 for around 9-10 months now, and I have been through many driver versions. Every single driver, without fail, has had some weird fuckup or failure that I encountered. The first set would make the driver straight up crash about 1-2 times per day. Another set shortly after made it so when playing Boneworks (VR game,) all the text in the game showed up on the left eye only. Another one somewhat recently would cause one of my 2 monitors to go dark. I had to manually unplug the displayport cable and plug it back in to get the screen back (barring a restart of the computer) Another one made it so if I highlighted text with my mouse while browsing Reddit, the Chrome tab would lock up and I would have to close it. Another one made it so a game I was playing at the time (cant remember which one, it was months ago) wouldn't even launch. The cemu emulator, which got a solid 60 fps for my GTX 1080, struggles to hit 25 fps with my RX 5700 no matter what driver version I use in OpenGL. I had bought my GTX 1080 just after launch, and the only issues I ever really had with it was after 3 years of heavy use it started to become unstable, which wasn't completely surprising. AMD is unfortunately just goddamned bad at drivers, and always has been. I had an AMD card about 8 years ago, and recall encountering similar poo poo that never happened with any nvidia card I owned.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2020 23:51
|
|
|
If you ended up with a blower and had the extra space in your case, you should just go for an aftermarket cooler to go on it. Blowers not only don't cool as well as other solutions, they are also noisy as gently caress.
|
|
#
¿
May 18, 2020 05:51
|
|
|
My computer is in my room, and it's not uncommon that I have a download going and leave my computer on overnight. I would prefer to not have a disco light show going while I am trying to sleep. Ideally my computer will have no extraneous lights, and make little to no sound.
|
|
#
¿
May 22, 2020 13:29
|
|
|
Confirmed, I am impatient and bad with money. The video card and case are the 2 things holding me back from my new build, so I pulled the trigger on a 2080 Ti which I will use to build my computer right on my desk until my case arrives in a couple months, then when the new cards drop I'll sell my 2080 Ti and get the new hotness.
|
|
#
¿
May 24, 2020 01:57
|
|
|
I'm only expecting to get half my cost back, depending of course on what the cost of the 30 series is, and how long the wait is. Welp, Microcenter was wrong and it wasn't in stock, so my reservation got cancelled right away. I guess I am not picking one up right now.
|
|
#
¿
May 24, 2020 02:15
|
|
|
Alchenar posted:I'm just on the lookout for 4k monitors that will refresh faster than 60fps without having an enormous price premium attached. The big issue right now is the DisplayPort and HDMI spec used on all monitors and video cards currently on the market can't support much more than 60 fps at 4k. There are various monitors out there that use workarounds to get beyond this, but the implementation isn't perfect and yeah, it's expensive. With any luck the next generation of cards from nvidia and AMD will have the newer specs, and the monitors will quickly follow. I expect there will still be a price premium for a couple years, but the implementation won't be so hacky either.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2020 19:22
|
|
|
DrDork posted:To be fair, there's not a whole lot you can really do to a 2080Ti other than power limits. Manually dicking with clocks just isn't worth the effort anymore. Since the 2080Ti auto boosts, I actually got a ton of bonus performance by undervolting it. It was throttling a lot at stock clock/voltage, and after a couple hours of slowly tweaking the voltage curve I managed to get it to run at about 200mhz higher and 5 degrees cooler. My primary goal was to lower the temps since it's going to be installed in an SFF case, but the bonus performance was a neat perk. Stock it was hitting 75 degrees with 100% fan speed and ~1630 mhz Undervolting it got me to 1830 mhz at 70 degrees, but the fans are still running around 60-70%. I set up 3 profiles based on the updated curve, so now I can go with nearly silent at around ~1530 mhz and 60 degrees, ~1760 mhz at 65 degrees with fans running around 40-50%, or 1830 mhz at 70 degrees with fairly loud fans. I just wish I could lock in the speeds without having MSI afterburning permanently running. There is exactly 0 reason for me to ever go back to the stock power curve. Mistikman fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Jun 18, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2020 02:59
|
|
|
future ghost posted:MSI's stock boost clocks are extremely high on this model (1950+ core) so I doubt there's much available performance even if I tried undervolting. I spent some time looking at fan curves, but it ended up staying cool enough with the stock fan curve and the three fans so I usually just leave it on auto. I kinda wish the fans stayed active at lower temps though as it makes me a little nervous with them stopped at 60C given that it doesn't present a VRM reading to the user. I guess they'll have factored that in their auto fan curve though. On my card, looking at the curve, it could technically go all the way up to 1950 or so if I could cool it enough. The question is what is it actually running at under load? When you stress test your video card, what clock speed/temp is it actually running at? That's the important number, because the theoretical maximum doesn't mean dick if you would need to implement some ridiculous cooling to get there.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2020 06:04
|
|
|
future ghost posted:Sustained core clocks vary between 1920 and 1965, pegging to 1935 in Realbench. 'Maximum' core clock is 1995 but it never gets there for more than a second. There's always some variability depending on load but it boosts fairly high without me having to do anything to it. Welp, I guess that's what I get for getting a 2080Ti with a blower style cooler on it. I didn't really anticipate the difference in performance would be that huge, but in a room at 20-21 degrees celcius, with the card not even installed in a case yet, it caps out in the mid 1600's stock due to thermals. I guess I should see if there is some kind of aftermarket cooling solution that will fit in the case I am going to be using.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2020 17:34
|
|
|
Cygni posted:1545mhz is the "stock" boost clock for the 2080 Ti, so I imagine some parts will have coolers designed to get them to that number and no further. I would check to make sure you are actually thermal throttling and not throttling because of something else, like power limit. GPU-Z and others can give you that info if you havent already. It's definitely thermals. It goes a bit higher than where it stabilizes at, but the fans max out and the clocks drop a little bit until the temps stabilize. The big concern with an aftermarket cooler is I am going to be building in an SFF case, so I am limited to a 2 slot GPU max. If I try to go any wider, it won't fit. If I go for an AIO, I also can't go bigger than 120mm. Plus, after all that, my plan was to sell the card and upgrade to a 30 series when those drop, so it might not be worth doing anything at all and just living with the lower clock speed. Even with the ~1700's I can get with a noise level I am comfortable with, I haven't found a single game that drops below 60 fps with maxed settings.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2020 20:15
|
|
|
joepinetree posted:Saw a zotac open box 2070 for 350. It's the blower version. Since every other 2070 sub 500 Ive seen has sold out in less than 2 hours and this one has been listed for a while, is there anything wrong with blowers or the zotac 2070 that I am missing? I bought the following card recently: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N208TTURBO-OC-11GC-rev-20#kf I assumed since it was an overclocked card out the gate, that even with it having a blower, it would be sufficient cooling to hit good speeds before being throttled by temps. When stress testing it, in a room at 20.5 degrees, it was throttling around 1730 core clock at 75-77 degrees, with the fan going at 100%, which is loud as gently caress. The card isn't currently in a case, so there is no way to blame the poo poo thermals on it on a case with bad airflow. People who buy 2080 Ti's with non-blower coolers seem to be able to get to the 1900's before they get throttled at stock voltages. I bought it because it was in stock at a normal price when most of the cards were either sold out or massively overpriced, but I am kind of coming to the conclusion that it's impossible to get a 'good' blower cooler on a card. I have mitigated the problems a bit with undervolting, but if I were using a card with a normal cooler the undervolting would have taken me even farther, at cooler temps. Mistikman fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Jun 20, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Jun 20, 2020 22:44
|
|
|
Agreed, CP2077 is going to be really big for Nvidia and they know it. It's going to be the biggest release of the year, and if Witcher 3 was any indication, may walk away with most of the game of the year awards. Nvidia has a big vested interest in making sure DLSS2.0 and RTX are well implemented and bug free in it.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 5, 2020 01:32
|
|
|
CaptainSarcastic posted:I'll keep an eye out for it. The whole controller versus keyboard and mouse thing is kind of in the forefront of my mind right now because last night I was going to start playing Outer Wilds and the first thing it did was put up a splash page saying it was designed for a controller. I didn't feel like finding batteries and learning to use my Steam controller so went with another game instead. I think this is honestly garbage regarding Outer Wilds. It's got a first person shooter interface. I tried with a controller at first, and almost immediately switched back to mouse+keyboard. The one and only thing that you don't have with mouse+keyboard is good throttle control, and that is only a significant issue in one area in the entire game, where for very spoilerish reasons you don't want to use above like 5% throttle. Despite that, the area is still totally doable otherwise, even if you have to get a little creative with not using the throttle at all at certain times. When you do play, make sure you are able to toast the marshmallow when you first start (it's a campfire literally right in front of you when you start, so it's not any kind of spoiler.) There is a bug for PC that breaks both controller and keyboard interactions and if you don't seem to be able to interact as expected there you will need to uncheck the box for the controller in the settings. Mistikman fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Jul 5, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Jul 5, 2020 02:52
|
|
|
CaptainSarcastic posted:Okay, good to know - thanks to you both about Outer Wilds. I'd heard it was good and was disappointed to run into that notice. If you like exploration games, you will really like Outer Wilds. Do yourself a favor and read as little as possible about it though, since the primary draw of the game is the exploration and learning about the solar system. The primary game mechanic precludes any kind of permanent inventory or upgrades, so the only thing limiting your exploration is literally your own knowledge of how things work. As you learn more, you are provided critical knowledge necessary to get to other places that originally may have seemed inaccessible.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 5, 2020 05:13
|
|
|
Welp, gently caress me I guess. I just built a computer a few months ago with a sandwich style case that only has room for 2 slot GPUs, and was planning on upgrading to a 30 series when they dropped. With the fan on the back, it seems possible the sandwich style may not work at all if it needs cooling on the back of the card. I guess I'll have to wait for more information to get released, and might need to get a new case before I can get a 30 series.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 22, 2020 05:34
|
|
|
Rolo posted:CDW has the EVGA XC3 Game 3080 for 899. Thanks for the heads up. I hate paying the $150 premium, but it sure beats the scalpers, and the only 2 cards that will fit in my case are the XC3 and the FE.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2020 05:11
|
|
|
Yeah, I'll keep an eye on my order, I can cancel it if need be. My current video card is having stability issues, so I would rather replace it sooner rather than later.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2020 05:13
|
|
|
Rolo posted:My CDW ordered EVGA changed from BACKORDER to NOT YET SHIPPED. You got lucky, mine is still sitting at backordered. They must have had a known quantity, and any orders beyond that (I ordered mine a little over an hour after your post telling us they were showing them in stock) got stuck at backordered for real. They did lower the cost on my order by about $40 for reasons I can't really explain, so even if it takes a little longer, it's only going to be a $110 markup instead of $150.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 2, 2020 05:20
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 03:56 |
|
|
Kingnothing posted:I’m moving form a 1060 to a 3080. Do I have to uninstall drivers and install new ones? That's a hilariously huge jump. It's like you are trading in a Geo Prism to get a new Corvette. Also, probably not but it's not a bad idea as the other guy said too.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 3, 2020 07:23
|
|