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Chillbro Baggins
Oct 8, 2004
Bad Angus! Bad!


Every method has its place -- stick for pipelines/structural, stick or fluxcore out on the farm/when it doesn't need to be nice (MIG/TIG don't work so great in windy conditions, saves money on gas for the hobbyist), MIG for easymode semi-nice, TIG if it has to be really fancy or you're doing poo poo like welding beer cans together, oxyacetelyne for when you're way off the grid and/or need a luggable all-purpose rig for cutting/uncutting steel, brazing copper, etc..


shalafi4 posted:

Mainly the "don't start with a MIG" you really don't learn anything with it. It's jokingly called a metal hot glue gun to welding engineers for a reason.


Some of his parallels he draws between stick and TIG I don't agree with. For a broad overview yea learn stick first then apply what you learned to TIG. If you're learning proper TIG about the only thing from stick that translates is the arc length~heat input relation.
But yeah, that. MIG (and to an even greater extent, fluxcore) is easymode, stick and TIG are difficult. There's an analogy here (something else where it's better to learn The Hard Way first), but I can't think of it at the moment. Maybe, to use my personal example, learning Photoshop after learning how to do all that poo poo in an actual darkroom.

Also, drat, now y'all have me wanting to dig out the buzzbox and practice my (lovely) stick-welding skills (it's a 120v pawnshop special; I'm half-decent with fluxcore, but glad I learned on stick).

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SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007


Hair Elf

There's an estate sale happening next week and they have a set of checkering tools. Anyone here ever experimented with doing their own checkering? Hopefully I can get them for cheap and have some fun.

I'm also wondering what other gun tools he has lying around. Presumably if you're at the point of buying checkering tools you'd have some other stuff too.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


Javid has, I think he posted the results both here in tfr in the shopaholics thread and in the DIY subforum woodworking thread.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

My sole partiality is to that delectable spiced meat. Any additional confederation of vegetables shall not compromise the pie as I see it.

Yeah, it was pretty simple to pick up. I did a bunch on a flat piece of birch plywood until I could keep it fairly straight, then moved onto junk stocks. Absolutely grab the tools and try it, even if you wind up sucking at it you can almost certainly flip the tools for whatever they go for at auction.

Plywood:



This was like day three of on and off loving around with the tools:



This was like a week or two later:




I did these two a couple weeks ago:



The bar for "acceptable professional work" is apparently somewhere south of this mangled thing I was looking at in a shop so don't be too hard on your own results:

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007


Hair Elf

That looks pretty slick. Hopefully they price them cheap. I've got an absolutely beat to poo poo pair of S&W magnas that it would be fun to try to rechecker.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

My sole partiality is to that delectable spiced meat. Any additional confederation of vegetables shall not compromise the pie as I see it.

Is it an estate SALE or an estate AUCTION?

Auctions are fun as poo poo once you get used to how they work.

Re checkering: I only didn't buy the tools before because it's like a hundred bucks for a basic set and I wasn't gonna bet that much money on my ability to do it right. If I could now tell 2012 me to just loving do it, I would.

Javid fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Nov 28, 2016

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007


Hair Elf

It's an estate sale and someone beat me to the tools

Doctor Grape Ape
Aug 26, 2005

Dammit Doc, I just bought this for you 3 months ago. Try and keep it around for a bit longer this time.


Someone on this forum has posted about Caswell Plating Stainless Blackener before, but I can't remember who or where. I'm looking to blacken the end of a stainless 1911 barrel, bushing and thread protector and wondering what kind of finish it gives/how difficult it is to get a decent finish. Hopefully that person reads this thread

Fang
Jul 9, 2001
If you don't think ponderous, clumsy sentence structure loaded with hamfisted thesaurus wankery makes good writing, you're probably just too dumb to read my posts.

/r/iamverysmart

Doctor Grape Ape posted:

Someone on this forum has posted about Caswell Plating Stainless Blackener before, but I can't remember who or where. I'm looking to blacken the end of a stainless 1911 barrel, bushing and thread protector and wondering what kind of finish it gives/how difficult it is to get a decent finish. Hopefully that person reads this thread

That person is me.

I used the gel blackener and got good results, but not at first. If you dab the gel on and leave it more than a few seconds, you'll end up with a shell of black that will either flake off or turn red with rust. The trick is to degrease and then apply a small amount of gel in a specific area and then immediately rinse with water and rub down with steel wool. Degrease again and repeat and the color will get slightly darker. You don't have to use steel wool; anything that will mechanically wipe the surface clean like a rag, shop towel, or patch will suffice. If you ever let the gel sit for too long, you'll get horrible dark patchiness and need to start all over again.

The muzzle end and bushing turned out pretty well:



However, it looks like the hood of the barrel is a little too thick in a couple places and starting to show some ruddiness. Might have to redo that area.



Under bright light, the blackening has a slight bluish tint that doesn't exactly match with the hue of parkerizing, but it should suffice when glimpsed momentarily during a dynamic tactical entry situation as you transition to your secondary weapon platform.

Doctor Grape Ape
Aug 26, 2005

Dammit Doc, I just bought this for you 3 months ago. Try and keep it around for a bit longer this time.


I had a hunch it was you but was nowhere close to certain. I think I might go with the regular liquid, the last gel finish I used ended up in the trash because it was too finicky. Those results look better than I expected, thanks for the pictures!

Fang
Jul 9, 2001
If you don't think ponderous, clumsy sentence structure loaded with hamfisted thesaurus wankery makes good writing, you're probably just too dumb to read my posts.

/r/iamverysmart

Doctor Grape Ape posted:

I had a hunch it was you but was nowhere close to certain. I think I might go with the regular liquid, the last gel finish I used ended up in the trash because it was too finicky. Those results look better than I expected, thanks for the pictures!

I bought some of the liquid but never ended up using it because it was possible to get the desired results with the gel. Might try some of the liquid on the barrel hood and the rest of the barrel to see how that turns out.

I eats my spinach
Jan 16, 2005

'sup gordon

Crossposting from the bullpup thread since only like three other weirdos read it

I've got this little .22 mag bullpup made by Tanfoglio and it's a neat gun, but the optics rail is on top of this crazy carry handle which results in like a 5" height over bore and an accompanying 9" POI shift between 15 and 100 yards distance. I decided that was dumb so I started thinking about a way to remedy this with an ancient drill press, one off-brand dremel, and a smattering of hand tools.

I had a few different ideas on how to do this since I couldn't just drill and tap the heavily curved plastic receiver, and started with this since it was long enough to cover any of those inadvisable scenarios

http://www.egwguns.com/scope-mounts/16-long-picatinny-rail-scope-mount-extrusion-w/slots-black-anodized/

After mocking stuff up on paper for a while I figured the safest bet would be to use calipers and a straight edge to make reference points from the top of the existing rail to where the bottom of the new rail should mount, and scribe some guidelines down the length of the rail to be lined up with the mold seam that ran around the vertical axis of the chassis. I chopped everything above the blue line:



and then trimmed everything inside the red areas down in height and width so it would sit inside the rail once I got the proper cutouts made. To make the rectangular cutouts in the rail without a mill I transferred their dimensions and center punched a row of guides the length of both nubs, then drilled them up to a size slightly smaller than their final width.



After that I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to expand the row of holes into a rough rectangle, then used files to add proper corners and expand the cutout to its final size while adjusting the scribed line to match up with the mold seams. The final product is much improved imho, I have no idea why they didn't just mold the rail an inch or so lower like this to begin with



Still gotta drill up the mounting holes and install the hardware (one bolt horizontally through each nub and a coarse wood screw vertically in the rear where there's a bunch of solid plastic) but that's easy compared to the fitting

I eats my spinach fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Jan 16, 2017

ZebraBlade
Mar 26, 2010

Something is rotten in the state of Denmark

That looks sooooo much better than the stock version even ignoring how functionally different they may be. I hate guns with hilariously high height over bore distances.

Missing Name
Jan 5, 2013



What are the odds that a gun show would hold some hosed over Mauser for experimentation? Rochester's pawn shops are dry of project guns.

wheres my beer
Apr 29, 2004


Tryin' to catch me ridin' dirty


Fun Shoe

Missing Name posted:

What are the odds that a gun show would hold some hosed over Mauser for experimentation? Rochester's pawn shops are dry of project guns.

Pretty good. Even better if you count dickered with 1903s under that Mauser umbrella.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


If not try the local pawn shops, but chances are very good there would be at least one at a gun show.

On laser marking metals, found this earlier. Apparently you can do a pretty solid substitute for the high cost marking materials like TherMark and Cermark with $10 cans of dry moly lube.
http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2013/laser-moly/
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-03084-Net-Weight-Lubricant/dp/B0013J62P4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484783901&sr=8-1&keywords=TherMark

shalafi4
Feb 20, 2011

another medical bills avatar

Parts Kit posted:

If not try the local pawn shops, but chances are very good there would be at least one at a gun show.

On laser marking metals, found this earlier. Apparently you can do a pretty solid substitute for the high cost marking materials like TherMark and Cermark with $10 cans of dry moly lube.
http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2013/laser-moly/
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-03084-Net-Weight-Lubricant/dp/B0013J62P4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484783901&sr=8-1&keywords=TherMark

I forwarded this to some guys with a 75watt Co2 laser.

They've wanted to try to engrave metal but didn't want to fork over the cash for the TherMark.

Once they try it (I suspect they'll jump right on it) I'll post an update.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


Awesome, I'm really curious myself.

n0tqu1tesane
May 7, 2003

She was rubbing her ass all over my hands. They don't just do that for everyone.

Grimey Drawer

Plaster of paris and alcohol apparently work pretty well too.

http://frankieflood.blogspot.ca/2014/12/cermark-alternative.html

http://frankieflood.blogspot.ca/2014/12/laser-engraving-stainless-steel-w.html

The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Spraying dry moly lube sounds cleaner than messing with the plaster, I should try it out.

I used some cermark tape for flasks and it works okay. Not much cleanup which is nice. If I ever did it seriously then cheaper would be better for sure.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


I kinda wonder if dry moly lube would work well for stuff like ar15s too. Of course with my luck if I started using it I would use up everything on laser poo poo right before I needed to clean/lube something.

poeticoddity
Jan 14, 2007
"How nice - to feel nothing and still get full credit for being alive." - Kurt Vonnegut Jr. - Slaughterhouse Five

Alright, which one of y'all is 3D printing ECM jigs for rifling barrels at home?

http://hackaday.com/2017/03/08/diy-barrel-rifling-with-3d-printed-help/

Missing Name
Jan 5, 2013



My roommate wants a .22 semi rifle with a pistol grip. (He shattered his wrist a few years ago and can't hold straight stocks for long). The problem is NEW YORK and THIS ASSAULT WEAPON MAKES THE USER SHOOT RANDOM PEOPLE, THINK OF THE CHILDREN. So, no detachable mags.

He bought a Marlin Model 60 yesterday and has already admitted he will be butchering it for science. I left home this morning and it was already disassembled on the living room table.

I think his first effort will be to merge it with a folding SKS stock he has lying around. Fill up the gaps and loose areas with epoxy and sand/drill to fit.

hamsystem
Nov 11, 2010

Fuzzy pickles!


If that doesn't work out this isn't a terrible option: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/6...d-polymer-black

I have one and don't really have any complaints other then it looks kinda goofy.

Rontalvos
Feb 22, 2006


Missing Name posted:

My roommate wants a .22 semi rifle with a pistol grip. (He shattered his wrist a few years ago and can't hold straight stocks for long). The problem is NEW YORK and THIS ASSAULT WEAPON MAKES THE USER SHOOT RANDOM PEOPLE, THINK OF THE CHILDREN. So, no detachable mags.

He bought a Marlin Model 60 yesterday and has already admitted he will be butchering it for science. I left home this morning and it was already disassembled on the living room table.

I think his first effort will be to merge it with a folding SKS stock he has lying around. Fill up the gaps and loose areas with epoxy and sand/drill to fit.

Ok this is spooky. My friend bought a bubba'd Marlin model 60 at a gun show with the original stock cut down to a pistol grip and was like "what the hell am I gonna do with this stock".

If your buddy is interested PM me and I'll provide pictures.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.


MrTuffPaws posted:

That would be a horrible way to go. Those divers of old must have had a death wish.

In the comments they list someone who went in a much worse way, Hisashi Ouchi.

JRay88
Jan 4, 2013


Any of y'all ever done one of those 80% Glocks? Midway has them for $60 and I was thinking of picking one up. Would probably end up Rit dying it a cool color (probably red).

Atticus_1354
Dec 9, 2006

Don't you go near that dog, you understand? Don't go near him, he's just as dangerous dead as alive.


Nope, but for $60 I may buy one too.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

My sole partiality is to that delectable spiced meat. Any additional confederation of vegetables shall not compromise the pie as I see it.

I'd buy a g30 sized one if it existed.

Doctor Grape Ape
Aug 26, 2005

Dammit Doc, I just bought this for you 3 months ago. Try and keep it around for a bit longer this time.


Probably not the best price, but someone (Javid) could probably do something cool with these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Aluminum-Butt-Plate-Grip-cap-for-custom-stock-/401304843899

e: guy has other cool stuff too

Missing Name
Jan 5, 2013



I'll preface this post a bit. I had a bit of a fever dream at work and admittedly have not done more complex gunsmithing than "file and sand this M69 Romanian firing pin so doesn't jam the whole mess up."

If I found a decent barrel at the next gun show or something, how easy would it be to lop off the old aft end and rechamber .30-06 to .30 carbine? Both rounds are .308 actual bullet diameter. I am deliberately aiming to make something unique for plinking and that also doesn't need to deal with the trillion local restrictions. Anything not semi auto, or at least a proprietary thing not easily converted to an assault gun (like StuG III)

The round would require less receiver strengthening than a true rifle round (intermediate or full power). In theory, I wouldn't need to heat treat the new Home Depot Special bolt or receiver if I just overbuild it - weight would not be much of an issue here for a range toy and general fuckabout concept gun.

With more math, a short recoil system could be cobbled together. For true confusion at the range.

End oxygen and sleep deprived logic.

In the meantime, my roommate has something in the gun sex dungeon that may or may not have be a bullpup'd Marlin 60 coated in Kydex. I'm afraid to touch it or go near it with a pointed stick right now.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

My sole partiality is to that delectable spiced meat. Any additional confederation of vegetables shall not compromise the pie as I see it.

If your donor barrel is neither stainless, chrome-lined, or any other sort of hardening process, you could rent a reamer and do it by hand. You'd still have to deal with cutting it off straight and true to the bore, which would be difficult without a lathe or access to one.

If the barrel is stainless, you pretty much need a lathe. If it's chromed or whatever then you need a carbide reamer, it will wreck the regular tool steel ones.

30 carbine is basically a pistol round, so you can get away with lopping off the thick chamber region of a barrel. I've put MUCH beefier rounds in .800ish diameter barrels without any explosions.

However, .30 blanks are not super expensive: http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/762blank-17/

e: It's worth noting that .30 carb likes a much slower twist than an 06 or 308 would, so you may encounter issues there. If you load your own with heavier bullets though, it'll be fine.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.


Homebreving a new forestock for my '73 uberti lever after I ruined the factory one (stained it, hated it, removed stain but the process warped it to heck). Fortunately I have some walnut in the right size.



Tonights work, I started on a prototype from pine since walnuts too expensive to test y our way ahead with. But softwood is way harder to work in than hardwood when it comes to chisel work, hardwoods are so much more nicely behaved...



The barrel is tapered, so the cutout has to be tapered too, I measured the barrel at the front and base of the stock and by hot gluing some shims of the right thickness to the sides I could produce the required taper. Then I hogged out the part where the stock meets the receiver and finished it with chisels and hammer.

Dunno when I'll have the time / willpower to work on it again, so busy these days...

MazeOfTzeentch
May 2, 2009

rip miso beno


Hey Javid:

I've gotten a wild hair and want to know some things.

I've got an H&R Topper Jr 480 in 20ga that I don't really use much, and had a bit of a stupid idea. I've seen online the ".30 Badger" wildcat, made by running a .38 Spl case through a 7.62 Tokarev sizer, and using .32-20 load data.

Would an old 20ga H&R take well to stubbing in a .30 Badger barrel? Is the firing pin on the shotgun frame okay for that? I feel like the shotgun frame should be okay for a pretty low pressure cartridge like that.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

My sole partiality is to that delectable spiced meat. Any additional confederation of vegetables shall not compromise the pie as I see it.

Yeah dudes put that on shotgun frames all the time. Don't push the pressure and it's fine. The biggest issue is the size of the firing pin, they come in .065 and .100 diameters and the latter tends to let the primer brass flow back into its channel at higher pressures. If you have the small pin it's not an issue.


E: also that sounds fun as poo poo.

Doctor Grape Ape
Aug 26, 2005

Dammit Doc, I just bought this for you 3 months ago. Try and keep it around for a bit longer this time.


His Divine Shadow posted:

The barrel is tapered, so the cutout has to be tapered too, I measured the barrel at the front and base of the stock and by hot gluing some shims of the right thickness to the sides I could produce the required taper. Then I hogged out the part where the stock meets the receiver and finished it with chisels and hammer.

For future reference, wrap a piece of sand paper around the barrel after you've roughed out the shape in the wood, then rub the wood into the barrel using short strokes so you can keep the profile as correct as possible.

MazeOfTzeentch
May 2, 2009

rip miso beno


Jesus gently caress, stubbing is like $450 worth of work D:

I dislike this gun as a 20ga but dearie me that's a lot to put into an $80 shottie.

Perhaps eventually. Or I'll get a Contender and a .30 Badger barrel made

e: ugh but take-off .30-06 R700 barrels are so cheap, and i also have a friend that's a nationally ranked palma shooter, i'm sure he's got some 'shot out' 308 barrels with like 1000 rounds on them that I could stub 16-18" off of

and then there's the task of finding someone to borrow the reamers off of, or find someone to make a new set

uuuugh this thing is gonna haunt my dreams

MazeOfTzeentch fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Jul 8, 2017

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

My sole partiality is to that delectable spiced meat. Any additional confederation of vegetables shall not compromise the pie as I see it.

If you're prepared to sacrifice the 20 gauge barrel anyway, a perma-conversion using a subcaliber insert might be more practical.

E: I have long imagined (and later found out someone beat me to) taking a short (8-10") insert and using the rest of the shotgun's barrel as the outside of an integral suppressor. Dunno if 20 ga would have the diameter to usefully suppress .30 badger or whatever though.

Javid fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Jul 8, 2017

Flatland Crusoe
Jan 12, 2011

Great White Hunter
Master Race

Let me explain why I'm better than you


Has anyone here gone down the rabbit hole of doing DIY stock fitting and modification work?

My CZ 628 needs some comb height removed and I may also chop some length off of the rear of the forend.

Anyone one use the Stock Fitter's Bible?

I must admit my DIY skills are almost entirely rooted in metal work rather than wood so this could be interesting.

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shalafi4
Feb 20, 2011

another medical bills avatar

Flatland Crusoe posted:

Has anyone here gone down the rabbit hole of doing DIY stock fitting and modification work?

My CZ 628 needs some comb height removed and I may also chop some length off of the rear of the forend.

Anyone one use the Stock Fitter's Bible?

I must admit my DIY skills are almost entirely rooted in metal work rather than wood so this could be interesting.

Point of reference that I use a lot going between metal and wood working.

Maple and 6061-T6 aluminum cut very similar.

Try to keep your cuts with the grain and you'll be fine.

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