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TrueChaos posted:That event was run directly by the track. Jesus Christ.
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May 23, 2020 06:25
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Crustashio posted:Ah, TMP CSCS is much better now.
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May 23, 2020 06:29
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Double Post.
Frond fucked around with this message at 06:55 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 06:51
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May 23, 2020 07:27
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When I went there, I pulled up to the pit exit and waited for the track marshal to release me and he was no-poo poo not there. He had gone to take a piss. When he came back, he was like "Oh, you're waiting for me? You can just go." He was like 19. Semi-related: I'm thinking about doing Lemons next year. Anyone have experience? What's the best way to get started? I assume the answer to that is "Buy a hooptie on CL and get a cage put in," but I figured I'd check.
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May 23, 2020 08:27
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Lol, was that a WRX that understeered into the hay bales? Guess he should have saved up for some sway bars, those things understeer so bad.
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May 23, 2020 20:03
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Frond posted:CSCS is much better now. Northern Speed ran their first event this weekend at TMP and they had no issues. The weeknight events almost always have some drama.
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May 24, 2020 18:58
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Alright stupid question. How often are you guys changing the oil in your track cars? After every track day, every other track day? Also does anyone have any reccomendations on a good set of pads for Heavy HPDE / Light street driving (Driving to / from events / the occasional hill country run) ? The pads on my Miata are almost shot. I actually like them quite a bit but I have no idea what brand they are so it's time to start looking for replacements. First real track day in the Miata June 8th at MSR Cresson 3.1 super stoked. Brother is coming along in his gutted Integra too. e: dust is no concern. I can literally clean my wheels and go for a 2mi drive and my wheels will be coated again. Diametunim fucked around with this message at 18:17 on May 29, 2020 |
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May 29, 2020 17:49
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I've always changed oil before events whether it's a HPDE weekend or a full race weekend...endurance or sprints. Oil is cheap in the scheme of things. I've always like Hawk brake pads, we ran the blues on our endurance car and they held up great while giving good stopping power. They're offer reasonable stopping power when cold for street use as well. They are pretty dusty so that's a downside.
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May 29, 2020 18:00
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Diametunim posted:Alright stupid question. How often are you guys changing the oil in your track cars? After every track day, every other track day? Also does anyone have any reccomendations on a good set of pads for Heavy HPDE / Light street driving (Driving to / from events / the occasional hill country run) ? The pads on my Miata are almost shot. I actually like them quite a bit but I have no idea what brand they are so it's time to start looking for replacements. What generation miata? I've got an NB and run hawk HP+ fronts / DTC-60 rears for autox/street, and DTC-60's front/rear on track. If you're just starting out with respect to HPDE, you can probably get away with HP+ all the way around, but as you improve you'll want to move up. I moved up when I started fading HP+ in about 15 minutes on track. The only reason I keep the DTC-60's on the rear full time is that the parking brake adjustment is a huge pain in the rear end and I'm too lazy to mess with it every time, and the rears don't do enough for it to be an issue on street or autox.
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May 29, 2020 19:17
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Changing every time is safe and easy. To come up with a real idea on need you'll have to track it and send a sample to Blackstone. Combine lab testing with an hour meter or careful notes and you'll know how many track hours you can run before changing.
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May 30, 2020 00:00
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I was doing oil changes every other race weekend on a fresh engine with Redline 30WT in my 1.6 Spec Miata. Samples always reported very good levels when i got them tested.
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May 30, 2020 01:18
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I change mine every 5 or 6 days, meh
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May 30, 2020 03:03
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BlackMK4 posted:I change mine every 5 or 6 days, meh It took me a while to realize you meant track days.
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May 30, 2020 06:21
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What interval would you recommend for my 89 Golf for autocross/track days, considering you have to pull hard on the rubber AC line (risking breaking it every time, thanks VW) to remove the filter and that it is in a hard to reach location?
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 21:35 on May 30, 2020 |
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May 30, 2020 21:32
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KillHour posted:It took me a while to realize you meant track days. Have you seen how often the dude is at the track?
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May 31, 2020 20:20
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Starting to build a track car. It's a 90 civic hatch that will be for track days to start and hopefully Honda challenge or something NASA. Most of the NASA/SCCA hondas I've worked on just had their seats mounted to the factory mounts. I've had to drill those out to repair some serious rust and would like to tie the seat mounts into the cage. Anyone have links to good examples of ways to do this? Total waste of time?
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Jun 3, 2020 01:42
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Here's how a friend did it in his VW. It seems like a good idea and fairly easy to implement.  Autoexec.bat posted:What interval would you recommend for my 89 Golf for autocross/track days, considering you have to pull hard on the rubber AC line (risking breaking it every time, thanks VW) to remove the filter and that it is in a hard to reach location?
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Jun 3, 2020 11:33
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I'd look at either a filter relocation kit, or do just oil changes more often and only do the filter every X miles.
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Jun 3, 2020 19:18
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That's a great idea, anyone know where I can find one that'll fit on a 1998 Cabrio block? I'm having some trouble finding one that will allow me to use an OEM VW filter, this engine is super picky about that.
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Jun 5, 2020 17:04
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I'd probably look at getting a custom AC line made. I've never used oil relocation kits (or oil coolers for that matter), but it seems like adding a potential failure point. Doubly so if your VW is picky about filters.
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Jun 5, 2020 17:27
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Ok, fair enough I'll see if I can find anyone to make me a custom line then. I swear VW didn't think about people having both PS and A/C when they built this thing. Also yeah the oil situation in this car is weird, VW recommends 15/20w50 for my climate in this car so I run "racing oil" so I get that extra zinc for my flat tappets.
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Jun 5, 2020 21:00
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I've put oil filter relocation blocks on a ton of cars. It's fine. It is technically another failure point but the quality of life improvement can be huge. Can be kind of pricy if you go braided line and an fittings but I like that more than rubber and hose clamps. For the AC line see if you're near a Parker store. They do custom lines for almost everything. You should be able to take in the factory line and tell them you want x more length here and have them whip one up there and then.
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Jun 5, 2020 22:02
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Ok, I'll explore both options and see what's the most viable. Here's a picture for anyone curious and no it won't fit out of the bottom despite looking open.
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Jun 6, 2020 01:33
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Ran Wild Horse Pass West today - fastest time of the day regardless of group / class, TT4 win, TA-B Win. Two RC1s and a set of Raybestos ST43s. As I was sitting in grid towards the end of the day I watched a Focus RS lift oversteer a full 90* to the track direction in front of me at pretty good speed (>60mph). It went into the wall about 20ft away, and somehow managed to drive off the track after being pulled out of the tires. Didn't go look afterwards, but I think it is done.  Probably on video (I haven't checked), but clearly not something to post on the internet even if I did get the whole thing. Anyway, I ordered a K24A. So it begins. I'd like to run TT4 in nationals next year just for the experience, fully expecting to get obliterated. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Jun 7, 2020 |
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Jun 7, 2020 03:36
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you could also run GLTC with a stockish k24 S2000 and be competitive
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Jun 7, 2020 18:38
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GLTC would be rad as gently caress, I need to cage the thing though. It is a shame that making the power to be competitive in GTA/GLTB/etc time attack is disgustingly expensive, especially if you want the car to have some semblance of reliability.
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Jun 10, 2020 21:46
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BlackMK4 posted:GLTC would be rad as gently caress, I need to cage the thing though. It is a shame that making the power to be competitive in GTA/GLTB/etc time attack is disgustingly expensive, especially if you want the car to have some semblance of reliability. Our shop is probably going to be bringing a second car with the TSX as a rental to next years events. Either a k24 eg or k24 brz, we'll see which car is done first.
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Jun 11, 2020 00:50
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The TSX as in the watermelon helmet related one? You have a really rad job 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Jun 11, 2020 |
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Jun 11, 2020 00:53
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BlackMK4 posted:The TSX as in the watermelon helmet related one? You have a really rad job Its a fun work environment, but lately its been less custom fab and more oil pan baffle factory. Its too bad the border is still closed, gingerman would have been a neat track to test the TSX.
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Jun 11, 2020 14:19
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I mowed the grass 3 out of 5 sessions at MSRC this past Monday. It honestly has me pretty upset since at any other track I'd be building a new Miata right now. How can I learn to not suck rear end while driving and properly catch over-steer when the rear end of the car start to step out? Furthermore, what's the best way to practice? Should I just drive out to an empty parking lot and start loading the car up and throwing the rear around?
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Jun 12, 2020 04:31
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We'll probably need a little more context on the when where why and how. Video if have it would be ideal. Was it turn in or on the exit? On or off the gas? Sudden or gradual? Same corner of different? Ideally you want to creep up to the limit. Hucking the car around a parking lot will help you train to steer into a slide but won't be super helpful near the limit. Maybe if it's big enough to use like a skidpad. Could also be a setup issue. Starting out you'll want a car that either wants to understeer or is neutral. As you get better you'll dial it in for a little oversteer. What's the rear toe and camber like? Adjustable rear sway bar? If so can you soften it? Tires/pressure hot? If you've got footage don't be afraid to post it. Everyone sucks at driving initially. At least I know I did. Takes practice and help.
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Jun 12, 2020 05:19
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Diametunim posted:I mowed the grass 3 out of 5 sessions at MSRC this past Monday. It honestly has me pretty upset since at any other track I'd be building a new Miata right now. How can I learn to not suck rear end while driving and properly catch over-steer when the rear end of the car start to step out? Furthermore, what's the best way to practice? Should I just drive out to an empty parking lot and start loading the car up and throwing the rear around? How much experience do you have overall, and how much of that was with an in-car instructor?
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Jun 12, 2020 14:42
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Diametunim posted:I mowed the grass 3 out of 5 sessions at MSRC this past Monday. It honestly has me pretty upset since at any other track I'd be building a new Miata right now. How can I learn to not suck rear end while driving and properly catch over-steer when the rear end of the car start to step out? Furthermore, what's the best way to practice? Should I just drive out to an empty parking lot and start loading the car up and throwing the rear around? I'm going to respond a little differently than the other posters so far. The answer is very simple. Go to a wet skidpad and drift around a skidpad for a half hour, with an instructor. Find out how to drift shallow, deep, how to increase and decrease the angle mid-drift, and how to get from a slide back into a all-grip situation without a massive tankslapper.
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Jun 12, 2020 15:23
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CMP posted on their facebook that they've contracted a company to repave the main course. I still think it's BS.
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Jun 16, 2020 01:16
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Some of the formula car guys had a private test and tune day there (CMP) this past weekend. They met the new owner and said survey crew was out while they were there as well as someone from the paving company checking a few things. Sounds like the new owner has big plans for the place.
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Jun 16, 2020 13:12
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Diametunim posted:I mowed the grass 3 out of 5 sessions at MSRC this past Monday. It honestly has me pretty upset since at any other track I'd be building a new Miata right now. How can I learn to not suck rear end while driving and properly catch over-steer when the rear end of the car start to step out? Furthermore, what's the best way to practice? Should I just drive out to an empty parking lot and start loading the car up and throwing the rear around? The low cost option is instructed skidpad. The high cost option is driving the slide cars at Bertil Roos (or anybody else who offers that). That was one of the best driving experiences I had, and now people claim I have "good car control". 
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Jun 22, 2020 22:29
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Is that thing like 15 degree rear toe in so it just autodrifts if you sneeze?
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Jun 22, 2020 22:35
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The slide cars have a modified rear axle that steers on its own. It is like driving on ice at any speed. quote:The slide cars are cars with an articulating rear axle which steers in phase with the front wheels based on sideways g forces (cornering force) when turning. You turn the car in and then you immediately have to countersteer to "hold the slide." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtC-AqKqgZk You drive them around quite a bit when you're there. Ultimately it is so much fun that you'll be asking to buy one as a grocery getter.
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Jun 22, 2020 22:38
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I never thought about methods other than what Bondurant has used on their skid cars for decades:  I distinctly remember seeing early SN95s and/or Fox bodies fitted with this when I was a kid but I can't find any photos of them.
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Jun 23, 2020 04:19
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