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First autox of the season yesterday, was lots of fun. Only 1 clean run, but 3rd overall on street tires, 7th overall on raw time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NexfIa_fgs
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May 7, 2018 23:11
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FatCow posted:I got the nastiest look when I rolled to a stop near my hold house after bedding brakes. All 4 wheels spewing smoke as a lady crossed the road with her dog. The best is that wonderful squeal on the first stop after the highway on the way to the track, in which you're still half asleep and wind up half way into the intersection because the brakes are cold. My neighbours called the fire department when I got back from bedding my brakes a few years ago. The firemen were pretty chill about it, and the response time was great. I was still rolling the car back and forth when they rolled up. Love my DTC-60's.
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May 23, 2018 02:52
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At least you wind up all the way through the intersection by the time you stop 
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May 23, 2018 15:32
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Track day tomorrow, at Calabogie. I can't sleep.
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Jun 10, 2018 03:50
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Phone posted:in no particular order Also drink water, then look ahead again.
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Jul 29, 2018 01:18
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track day bro! posted:I did manage to get some footage of me catching up to another mr2 who then had a bit of a moment, he came pretty drat close to swiping my rear but I kinda feel like I was egging him on a bit which wasn't the greatest idea. No damage done in the end tho. That's certainly a bit of a pucker, but you handled it fine. He was all over the place ahead of you, even before passing the porsche he seems to be struggling to find the apex. It looked like him clipping the curb was what threw it into a spin. You definitely weren't too close or anything. I've had people spin in front of me a few times, it's always exciting.
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Sep 11, 2018 19:47
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On the miata I can occasionally get an abs fault from two feet in on a spin
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Sep 15, 2018 22:01
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Okay, so this was entertaining to see live: https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=70d_fbRuSQk
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Sep 24, 2018 01:32
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KidDynamite posted:I failed my checkout ride to de3 because I started driving like trash when I got behind a race prepped mustang that wouldn’t give me a point by. Was on his rear end so much that I was closing in on an uphill corner while completely of throttle and that made me not trust him in front of me and made me miss apexes on the rest of the lap and a half I was behind him (checker came out before I could drive through pit). How do you all keep hitting your marks while making sure not to hit the idiot in front of you and also be ready to react in case they do something stupid? Go through the pits if it's an option, if not I just dial back my speed a bit, sticking with the dude ahead but not crowding him. Focus on your vision - look where you want to go, leave enough of a gap that you've got time to react to whatever gently caress up they're going to do. Don't trust the driver ahead of you, but trust your own peripheral vision to pick up his fuckups so that you can react. Being able to manage traffic is important as you step up in groups, and being able to stay on line behind someone who is driving poorly and/or practicing off line stuff is important. Ill only follow closely if I know the driver ahead of me. Otherwise, allow a gap and close it the last corner or two before the passing zone. You really shouldn't encounter a driver like the one you're talking about if you're in an open passing session.
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Oct 15, 2018 20:42
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kimbo305 posted:I think I'm ok with lax HPDE rules as long as every single driver in a group is signed off on that stuff by the instructors. But that was definitely not the case. There was me overbraking and hugging an apex and some instructor on his own driving time getting the rear loose passing me on the outside of the corner. Yeah, it pretty much has to be the advanced group for that stuff. I swear intermediate groups are the most dangerous - lots of confidence cause they're signed off solo, lots of times without the skills to back it up. The instructor was pulling a dick move with passing like that in a beginner group. The best, most considerate lapping I've had was running advanced with open passing. Most people still pointed by, but just in lots more exciting spots - it was nice not to need to wait for a passing zone to get by slower traffic / let faster cars by. Plus, given the open aspect, everyone had their heads on swivel.
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Dec 19, 2018 04:06
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He hosed up big time, as did his team telling him the black flag wasn't for him. People can get killed when you ignore the marshals, he deserved to get chewed out.
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Apr 23, 2019 03:12
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Fuzz_83 posted:
Was this the AISA race school? Re point by - with the org I usually run with, the person being passed holds their line and the passer goes off line to pass. The person being passed must point by to initiate the pass, as this is confirmation that they know its coming. Insurance requires point by passing for our events or they won't insure. kimbo305 posted:Take the exact scenario you pointed out -- I'm fine with taking an off line after apex and letting faster drivers pass through. But while setting up a non optimal line while having them 6 inches off my bumper, I don't like further complicating things by taking one of my hands off the wheel and giving the point by. I want to be focused on driving right, but do the point by because that's the rules. Ours is also only in designated zones on track for the novice and intermediate sessions, so you wouldn't need to worry about taking your hands off the wheel to point by until you're on a straight. No one should be 6" off your bumper on a track day regardless of run group. TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 20:36 on May 9, 2019 |
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May 9, 2019 20:33
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Fuzz_83 posted:Never change your line. Never never never. Always be predictable. If all of a sudden you change your line to be courteous, you become unpredictable. I'm hoping to take the school next year if I can get the time off work, we'll see. The MSF level 2 instructor course is more of a priority, and I need to put a race seat and harness in the passenger side before that. I instruct with motorsport club of Ottawa at Calabogie & Shannonville, as well as Calabogie's novice days. I put a bucket and harness on the drivers side shortly after being signed off solo. A thousand times keep your line and be predictable. If you're on your line I can set up my corner into the straight to put me off line on exit ready to pass. If the guy ahead only points you by 3/4 of the way down the straight, just don't pass. I can completely understand not doing point bys at a race school, but otherwise it's not the end of the world to be stuck behind someone for a few more corners. Worst case come through pit lane and get the pit out martial to give you some space. With MCO, you won't be signed off solo if you can't manage to both point cars by and make the correct judgement call on if you have enough time to make a pass if someone gives you a late point by. We typically have an instructor out in the novice session specifically giving late point bys so we can evaluate what the student will do in that scenario. We ran open passing in the advanced group for a few events until insurance found out and slapped our wrists. It was fantastic in the advanced group, everyone was hyper aware and anyone who wasn't comfortable bumped themselves back to intermediate on their own. Surprised that you had that many idiots in that course - most HPDE days at bogie seem to run really smoothly, with few incidents. Any tips on temptation in a miata? I've tried so many different lines through it and can't decide between about 3 different ones which is best. No appreciable difference in lap time or corner exit speed. I can't pm you, but are you local?
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May 9, 2019 23:31
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Fuzz_83 posted:A lot of people keep telling me to do the MSF course, and I've had a few discussions with people, and to be honest - I see their point, I see whats the goals are, but I don't see the need, as at the end of the day, its the organization that is running the event to ensure they have qualified instructors. If Rob turn around tomorrow and says MCO is going to only use MSFII Instructors, and doesn't properly structure the day, or the course, or make sure that he is actually working with qualified instructors... that is a recipe for disaster. I'm part of a few of Ross's groups and the stuff I see other instructors posting is... wow. The MSFII course requires equal restraints, and as I've got a bucket & 6pt the passenger side needs that as well, which makes perfect sense. I guess I could put the stock seat in but that's a lot of hassle and then I'm not under the roll bar. I like having number boards because they're an easy reference point for braking, but I haven't paid much attention to the cones in years. People still do that after they've learned the track? I use that same line for temptation, except I'm braking a bit at the 1, turn in & trail brake. I'll see if I can turn in with less or no brakes (I've been loosing ground on entry there compared to others, so I'm sure it's possible). Enjoy your weekend off! We've likely met before. If you see a black nb with one bucket and one stock seat, come say hi.
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May 11, 2019 15:25
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It's fun watching cars race where I've lapped. It's a bit of a boring track in a stock powered miata though.
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May 18, 2019 19:17
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Hankook RS4's are also fantastic and last forever (for a trackday/autox tire anyway).
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Jan 15, 2020 01:49
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FatCow posted:Buy then again he had a $100 Gforce helmet. Out of curiosity, if the helmet was appropriately rated, what's the issue here? I use a relatively inexpensive SA2015 racequip helmet that fits me well and is comfortable for extended periods of time. Would I like a carbon fiber helmet with better airflow? Sure. But would that helmet be "safer" than my current one, or just more comfortable? (I honestly don't know here - I figured as long as it's appropriately rated, more expensive just meant lighter weight / more comfortable)
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Jan 29, 2020 17:17
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I'm assuming you're on 15x9 & 225/45 tires. You're under sprung in the front for sure. Don't worry about rubbing on the fender liners, they're self modifying. You can simply remove them if you're not worried about autox classing (STR - the fender liners have to stay). I've got a 99 with 800/500 xidas, 4/4.25 f/r pinch weld heights. I had to roll and pull the front and rear to run 245's, and I get very minor rubbing on the shock towers with 5mm spacers. Not enough to feel, but enough to wear the paint off in one spot. If your fenders are contacting the tires, you need to roll / pull to prevent it. If they're just hitting the fender liners, either remove them or don't worry about it. With respect to your bushings, the diff ones are probably toast. Mine were, and I replaced them with poly. The other pictures appear to be ball joints / tie rod ends. The upper ball joints are pressed into the UCA's, it's easier just to replace the UCA's. The lower ball joints are easy to replace, and you should get extended ones - easy way to add camber. With respect to the rest of the bushings, don't assume they're trashed. Get a pry bar in there and see if you can get any play out of them. If you can, replace them, if not they're probably fine. I couldn't get any play in mine, chances are the rubber has hardened up and they're fine.
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Feb 10, 2020 18:15
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Phone posted:If you’re running wide tires and are lowered, you need to roll the lip of the fenders in on an NA on all four corners. I think NBs have way more room in the rear. If you're low on 225's or larger you'll probably need to roll & pull the rears, at least that was my experience.
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Feb 10, 2020 19:21
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Diametunim posted:Just curious If you drive your setup on the street how tolerable do you find it? I have have to be careful on the street with my current suspension setup as it's pretty prone to scraping. I'll take a look at the bushings and see what I find. It's kind of disheartening to hear that changing the upper ball joints is a pain in the rear end. I was hoping to not have to pull the UCAs but I suppose it's only one more thing. My only real long term comparison is to stock, and I didn't notice a huge difference in ride quality on the street. I did diff bushings and stiffer motor mounts at the same time, so it's hard to pinpoint changes as just suspension based. It's certainly not the most comfortable (I'm running a bucket seat and 6 point harness as well) but the dampers are good enough that I don't really feel like my teeth are being rattled out of my head or anything. Much of it will depend on the roads you drive. I don't mind it at all, but I only really drive the car to / from events. UCA's are inexpensive, and much easier to change as a unit than messing with the ball joint. At 205 tires, your wheels could be anything from 6-8" wide, they'd be really stretched on a 9" wheel.
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Feb 14, 2020 16:34
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Yeah, I've been watching that shitshow unfold across various car groups on facebook. I haven't driven TMP, and from what I've seen of it I doubt I ever will. I find some events at shannonville are also a bit sketchy, its worth it to look up videos from the group running the event before attending. Most are fine though. I'm lucky in that my home track is Calabogie, and Tremblant is great as well. KillHour & BlackMK4 - you guys ever make it up to bogie?
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May 21, 2020 22:26
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NitroSpazzz posted:I just want to know what organization so I can never ever run with them. People ask me why I'm always nervous running with new groups...that's why. That event was run directly by the track. They have one guy who's the only marshal, group assigner, waiver checker, tech inspector, tow truck driver, fire fighter, drivers meeting conductor (hint - this never happens!) and apparently boxing referee. He also doesn't have the authority to kick someone out.
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May 22, 2020 20:29
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Diametunim posted:Alright stupid question. How often are you guys changing the oil in your track cars? After every track day, every other track day? Also does anyone have any reccomendations on a good set of pads for Heavy HPDE / Light street driving (Driving to / from events / the occasional hill country run) ? The pads on my Miata are almost shot. I actually like them quite a bit but I have no idea what brand they are so it's time to start looking for replacements. What generation miata? I've got an NB and run hawk HP+ fronts / DTC-60 rears for autox/street, and DTC-60's front/rear on track. If you're just starting out with respect to HPDE, you can probably get away with HP+ all the way around, but as you improve you'll want to move up. I moved up when I started fading HP+ in about 15 minutes on track. The only reason I keep the DTC-60's on the rear full time is that the parking brake adjustment is a huge pain in the rear end and I'm too lazy to mess with it every time, and the rears don't do enough for it to be an issue on street or autox.
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May 29, 2020 19:17
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That looks painful, glad you're okay. What year is yours again? I don't know if this is just how ABS works, but in my '99NB if you wind up engaging AB with low pedal force it will pulse with that level of braking force. Braking over a crest or at the wrong time over a bump results in basically no braking force if the abs kicks in. It looked like you went through a cloud of dirt just prior, I wonder if a car ahead dropped some dirt on the track that you managed to find.
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Oct 5, 2020 03:46
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pffft lots of tread left, just send it.
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Jan 17, 2021 04:34
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Phone posted:e: sorry looks like an NB, but i still don't think i've ever seen 8 degrees of caster on one of those either I've got like 7 degrees on mine. I'm running the same setup in terms of suspension (800/500 xidas, big front bar, elbs, etc). Told the shop to hit the front camber number and then give me as much caster as they could Diametunim posted:I need to spend some time studying alignment configurations and tweaks, to truly understand the how each individual setting (camber, caster, toe..ect) affects the overall alignment and handling characteristics of the car. I had the car aligned and corner balanced when I installed the aftermarket suspension and sways (Xidas 800/500, 1.125 RB Sway F, SuperMiata sway rear, and ELBJ's) and told the tech how I would be driving, and to roughly copy the SuperMiata alignment specs as he felt appropriate. The tech also told me that -2.0 degrees camber was all he could get out of the fronts. Either something is wrong with your car, your ride height is loving with things, or the alignment shop doesn't have a clue what they're doing. I have the same suspension, and I'm at -3.2F / -2.8R corner balanced at 4" front pinchweld 4.2" rear pinchweld, 0 toe, and I'm like halfway through the max camber settings in the front. My tire wear is even with 245 RS4's on 15x9 wheels.
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Jan 19, 2021 03:56
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What's your full suspension setup (swaybars, spring rates, alignment, tire choice, wheel size, rake, corner balanced, etc)? The way mine is set up I don't get much if any push on corner entry, the car rotates incredibly well under trail braking, and sliding the rear is easy to control (but I'm not turbo, and on RS4's instead of slicks, etc). I have yet to drive a miata in anger that had fantastic feeling brakes. With mine, making sure the rear parking brake is adjusted perfectly seems to be key to getting the best brake feel. Also hows your aero balance? I remember you having a decent front splitter/wing combo - might need to increase downforce in the front or decrease downforce in the rear to get rid of the push if it's not rotating on entry. TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Mar 15, 2021 |
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Mar 15, 2021 19:02
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BlackMK4 posted:~2400lb I'm on the too much rear grip / too stiff front train. Try softer front springs, raise the rear / lower the front so you're at 1/4" rake, and the 4" splitter - I don't think you have the aero / tire load to need 1200lb front springs. Some combination of this will probably fix what you're describing. What are your camber numbers? My setup is as follows: 800/500 springs on xida race Front bar - Tubular front 1.125" - .188 wall #54103 on full stiff I think, I'd have to check Rear bar - supermiata on full soft -3.2F / -2.8R 4" / 4.25" F/R ride height 245 RS4's on a 9" Wheel No aero. What settings are your shocks at? The xidas have a hugely noticeable difference across the range. My first autocross with them I had everything set up as above, set the f/r shocks to 10 clicks from soft for both, and promptly couldn't keep the rear end under control. Worked up to 12 from soft in the front, and down to 8 from soft in the rear, and it was a completely different experience.
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Mar 15, 2021 20:07
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 Amazing what the proper rake will do. The rear was too low, resulting in too much grip there, causing the front to push. You can actually play around with the rear ride height to stabilize things a bit rather than wing angle too, depending on your preference. Glad to hear its sorted though, way more fun when the car does what you want it to do!
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Apr 9, 2021 23:42
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BlackMK4 posted:I'll play around with it a bit, I don't have my own corner balance scales so I can't just mess with it whenever You can without scales! Count the number of threads below on each side, that's your default. Go in full turns, same on both sides - i.e. two turns down/up - this will keep your cross weights the same, even if the F/R balance changes a bit. Note the amount you changed, and you can just reset it back to perfect corner balance at the end of the day. Right from Emillo: "In general, once we have an alignment we like, the only tuning we do at the track is to raise and lower the rear to fine tune. Lower to add rear grip, raise to reduce it. Too low and the suspension will bottom so that's your limiter."
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Apr 13, 2021 17:53
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The car doesn't seem to have a problem putting power down in low speed corners right now, but I think it is worth trying.
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PaintVagrant posted:Was the fracture from his arm being jerked by the steering wheel? This has to be it, I can't imagine it happening any other way.
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May 13, 2021 17:52
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Virgil Vox posted:Flyin Miata Fox coil overs full stiff all corners Step 1 is soften the front to get more mechanical grip. The proper way to do this is to do a bunch of testing to find out where your shocks are happiest balance wise. Your goal is to keep the shocks at the softest setting that doesn't bounce around like crazy, because you'll have more mechanical grip. Later in the day is also usually where temperature is increasing compared to morning runs - so you may actually be able to bleed off a psi or two all around. Check your hot tire pressures early, where you're happy with the balance. Check them after every run. You might find that your pressures are higher later in the day and you can bleed some air out in the afternoon. For what it's worth, I'm on xidas @ 800/500 spring rates, racing beat 1-1/8" hollow front bar / Mazdaspeed rear bar, full stiff on the front bar, full soft on the rear bar. Alignment is 0 toe F/ 1/32 R, -3.2F / -2.8R camber wise. I play with my shock settings every event based on how the car is behaving. Cars a handful (decidedly loose) but hilariously fun to drive. I'd read through https://supermiata.com/miata-race-alignment-info.aspx for setup tips and tricks. TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Sep 28, 2021 |
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Sep 27, 2021 21:33
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That is decidedly car dependant re stock rotors. I'm in a miata and use the cheapest white box rotors I can find, and I can't remember how many sets of DTC-60s I've run through on a single set of rotors. They still measure within spec, no runout, no signs of cracks. I'm replacing them with my next set of DTC-60s cause they're a bit grooved at this point. I'm pushing enough at this point that my times are not far off from the spec miata lap record, so it's not like I'm easy on the brakes. FWIW, I run DTC-60s all around on track, and hp+ front / DTC-60s in the rear for street / autocross. I'm sure it'd be better if I ran HP+ on the rears, but it's a miata and the rears don't do all that much and are a PITA to do pad swaps because of the ebrake setup. I ran HP+ for I think my first 4 events, at which point I was driving around the brake fade by the 10 minute mark in the session (with typ 200 fluid). After a day's worth of sessions one of the front pads disintegrated so I drove home on a metal backing plate
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Jul 30, 2022 02:01
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Scionix posted:I flew over #12 in my first session and almost pooped myself, can confirm Blind corners / turn ins are a lot of fun. You'll build up speed with them the more you know the track, but it's something I've worked on with literally every beginner I've rode with at my home track. The track will be in the same spot it was last lap, convincing yourself of this is the fun part.
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Jun 5, 2023 17:58
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Isolationist posted:Excellent, thanks Honda! I'll take a look at that one and have a chat with some race stores here. It's a daily car (60k miles and counting) that sees track a couple of times a year and regular spirited hills runs, not warranted at this point. Most of the other cars out on track on the days I go are street driven Porsche etc all with stock seats - not doing the equivalent of the US HPDE/wheel to wheel stuff. Cage, bucket seats etc aren't legal on the roads here (Aus) so it's either three point harness and stock seat in road car, or track car trailered to the events. I would be confirming with Schroth that those are suitable for an ND. You didn't mention a roll bar, and I don't know where you'd attach the inner shoulder strap on a miata, as there are only going to be 3 anchor points in the car from the factory. I'd be really nervous lapping an ND (you didn't mention if it's an RF or not) without a roll bar - around here, you won't get on track in an ND without a roll bar (RF you can). If you don't have a roll bar there's no situation that I'd recommend those 4-point belts in. In the event of a rollover without a roll bar, your body needs to be able to move, otherwise your neck & head become the support point for the car. Hell even with a stock seat and belt this is a huge concern without a roll bar. Phone's response is because people all too frequently take liberties with safety. If you're at the point where you're feeling like you've been hit by a bus after lapping, you're at the point where a roll bar, proper belts and a bucket seat are the next step, along with a HANS device. Otherwise, stick with the stock seats and belts and live with how much it beats you up - this is safer than any other option. No one's trying to piss in anyone's cornflakes here, should things go wrong proper safety is the difference between serious permanent injury / death and walking away with some bumps and bruises. TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Oct 10, 2023 |
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Oct 10, 2023 16:45
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I run RS4's on the miata, they're a perfect hpde tire. Wear like iron, close enough in speed to the best tires, responsive and communicative at the limit. Did I mention they wear like iron? My last set lasted 10 track days and 15 autox events, plus driving to/from the track. I have a tow vehicle now (picked up a used cayenne - 7700lbs tow rating!), and as a result I'm trailer shopping and probably venturing into the world of slicks soon. I'm very excited to be able to get into a comfortable vehicle with ac and vented seats at the end of a track day, rather than climbing back into a bucket seat, harnesses, no ac/Ps, stiff suspension miata to sit on the highway at 4k rpm for an hour or two.
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Apr 5, 2024 17:54
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It's also my wife's daily driver, and the parking lot at her workplace is pretty tight. We don't frequently need a bed, and the once a year I do I can generally just use the car trailer. Given it's her daily driver, in addition to towing duty the requirements were heated/cooled seats & a heated steering wheel. Where I am, this was less expensive than a truck with that criteria, similar year & mileage, so why not? I'll be doing all the work myself (I too do not value my time), it's just light enough that it'll go on the 5000lb quickjacks I have, and spring/summer/fall there are 3 other vehicles that can be used if I need to work on it for longer than a weekend or evening. I'm sure a truck would likely tow with more stability given the extended wheelbase, but this is a much, much better ride for the rest of the time and an enclosed trunk is far more useful. I've got the base model engine with a bunch of interior options + the factory tow option checked, and it's not going to set any speed records but it's no slouch. It's also very quiet at speed, incredibly comfortable, and easy to drive. I'm still not a fan of how everyone drives giant things, but this is about the smallest vehicle we could get with a 7K+ tow rating.
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Apr 7, 2024 00:58
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Data Graham posted:On the less good side, Ouch. Buffer going to earn some OT by the looks of it. McTinkerson posted:There's myself, Bajaja, Safety Dance and Motronic that I'm aware of. It's like 1 post above you and I miss the list?
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Apr 8, 2024 13:54
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