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BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.


I figured this would be the place to ask:

I am having a chassis built and I would like to do track days with it. I have some options regarding brakes and shocks.

Is it worth it to pay the price difference from a standard shock, to Penske double adjustable front and rear at +$1400 or to Penske triple adjustable front and rear with remote reservoirs at +3300? These would come adjusted for the car's roll center and so on if they are installed at build.

The same question goes for brakes. The options are Baer Pro+ 14" 6 piston fronts and rears for $4540, Baer Extreme 14" 6 piston monoblock fronts and rears for $7260, or Brembo 14" 6 piston monoblock fronts with 13.5" 4 piston monoblock rears for $8290. All of those are drilled and slotted.

Are the upgrades worth the price, assuming that I could buy any of the options without it killing me?

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BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.


Thanks. I suspected i wouldnt see any real benefit unless I was really racing it more than casually. I plan to really drive it once or twice a month on a track with it mainly as a weekend driving around car.

It is going to be an ls3 powered 1966 chevelle on a roadstershop fast track chassis.

BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.


mekilljoydammit posted:

Similarly, monobloc calipers will be a bit stiffer but I think you're not going to have a very heavy car, and any of those should be dead solid.

Not a very heavy car is relative, It should come out 3600 or less after everything I think, full curb weight ready to drive. The chassis adds about a hundred pounds to the original because of the suspension and rear end changes. The upside of this is that it also changes the weight distribution of the car from 60/40 to much closer to 50/50 with the LS3. I ought to be able to get it drat close to 50/50 as I finish the build as far as I can tell. It also lowers the car 3 inches without changing the ground clearance because the exhaust system runs inside the chassis instead of under it, and suspension changes means no part of the front or rear suspension hangs below the frame.

BraveUlysses posted:

holy poo poo that sounds like it will be a sweet car to drive on track

That's what I'm aiming for, but it's likely going to be another 3 or 4 years before I'm all the way done so don't hold your breath!

So the basic consensus is the standard shocks and the cheaper Baer Pro+ brakes. I'll put that on the list. Likewise if anyone has any suggestions or things to plan for during construction feel free to say so. This is really the first car I am restoring/building this way, so assume I am an idiot.

Thanks everyone!

BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.


Any of you guys ever run in the Silver State Classic Challenge?

BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.


When restoring a car is there anything I should plan for in advance if I want to occasionally run it on a track from time to time where for the most part it's a weekend driver?

BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.


kimbo305 posted:

That its cooling system is in good shape. And maybe better brakes depending on how old it is.

Brakes aren't likely a problem, it will probably have 14 inch Baer 6 pistons on all four corners.

Is it worthwhile to have a transmission/oil cooler installed when building it? would that even be a factor?

Should I overpsec the radiator compared to a typical one?

BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.


DoLittle posted:

In your case as you have the body in bare metal, you should consider seam welding the body in strategic areas. Although it depends on what kind of loads are transferred onto the body in you body-on-frame car.

Thanks. I believe my welder was going to reinforce some areas from the get go, mainly A pillars and surrounding area and where the pillars meet the roof. According to him on a car on frame those are the problematic areas a car will fold, because the bottom is generally more structurally sound. I'll verify this with him.

NitroSpazzz posted:

Oversized radiator could help if you're doing long track sessions or in a very hot area. Oil/trans cooler is probably overkill unless again long session in a very hot area.

Eh, I live in Vegas. It was over 115 for most of a month and it was over 100 at midnight more than a few times. I'm not sure if that's overkill or just not a horrible idea. Because of the state my car is in now I would think it would be a lot cheaper to plan and build stuff like this in now as I go as opposed to retrofitting it later if needed.

BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.


jamal posted:

Bigger radiator is a good start, but the important thing is to monitor temps. Coolant and oil temp gauges with warnings would be really useful (btw I carry a good selection of them).

More water than coolant is also helpful. Water is better at carrying and transferring heat than the coolant. Somewhere like Vegas you could almost run 100% water and something like water wetter but you need some corrosion protection in there too. So like 20% anti-freeze/coolant would be a good start.

The thing that often gets overlooked is airflow. Compared to just having a big radiator sitting behind the grill and in front of the engine, guiding the air in and out of the radiator is way more effective. Plus hood louvers are cool.

The car will have a computer that is being built to monitor and control systems, so adding temperature sensors with alarms is very doable.

Aerodynamics I haven't even brought up here yet but I know will be a long term problem. I was told that early Chevelles have real problems with front end lift and loss of steering authority at high speeds and I am still hoping to run in the class up to 165 mph in the SSCC.

I was told I will need an air dam/splitter fabricated under the front bumper and a way for air to escape the hood (and possibly wheel wells) to alleviate issues would resolve the issue satisfactorily but I was assuming that was near the end of the build. I had suggested to me that possible leaving the back of the cowl open on a two or 4 inch cowl hood while adding a little reinforcement there might allow enough airflow but I suspect this may not be the case.

I cringe at picking up shock load sensors at 2500 each to get good data, I was considering perhaps trying to use ultrasound distance sensors and a computer averaging a result over a last 5 seconds rolling time to measure the distance the shock unloading which could be translated into how much weight is being taken off, which is like 100 bucks instead of 5k for the front end but I don't yet know enough about that to say if I'm just being a retard or not.

In fact, getting an real facts on fixing aero on old cars was something Google wasn't really helpful with because I get piles of redneck forum posts that amount to "I DID THIS" with no real evidence it actually worked or was (relatively) safe. I'm finding it hard to find real facts about aero. I know of at least one case where a guy got a 66 Chevelle to 240.1 mph so I know it can be done, but real info seems hard to find.

BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.


jamal posted:

Ha of course it's a speedventures event with those crappy rules. By my reading those hood vents and ducts are possibly illegal?

I'm not sure what it has to do with what the guy with the chevelle is building, pretty sure he's not racing in that series.

Yeah, the Chevelle ought to drive better than it has any right to, but I think giant aero like that is aiming a little high. It's primarily a driving around car.

And thanks everyone for the aero information that's what I was looking for, I had it exactly backwards regarding front of hood instead of back. My welder may do hood venting while he is doing metalwork. The issue is I'm not sure if the 2 inch cowl hood I have no will be enough clearance at the end of the build. If not I may end up venting a second hood later.

That Vorshlag link tells me that I think my chassis choice will save me a poo poo ton of aggravation in exchange probably for cash. A dedicated frame with a purpose built suspension should really help things. That said holy poo poo I have a lot to consider here. I may see if I can pay for some consult time with a professional as soon as the car is mobile.

Also RE the Vorschlag build I was hoping for a LOT more subtle areo than that. I was hoping for a front air dam that doesn't look horribly out of place. So now it looks like I'll vent the hood and eventually do runs and pull data to determine what I need to do to keep it stable up to 165 eventually. After I get the car finished I have to run the SSCC/NORC twice more at a max speed of 124 and then 140 before I can get to the 165 max speed class anyway. I will probably do at least one low(ish) speed run at 90 or so my first time regardless.

Those potentiometers look better than me cobbling poo poo together, and probably better than ultrasound ones. That Vorschlag also helped me find a wiper motors set that mounts inside the firewall on my car, so that's pretty nice as a little bonus.

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BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.


How do you guys feel about aftermarket launch control systems like those built in the Holley Dominator?

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