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MrYenko posted:Sit in the corner and cry, with a bottle of Makers Mark in one hand, and a pistol in the other? Holy poo poo you people are dark. It means I have no plans with the (ex) GF and don't care much about the superbowl. That means I have a free weekend to do car work. And also drink Makers.
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Jan 31, 2015 06:54
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I might still take that t56 off your hands. I still have to see how much I owe on taxes fist.
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Jan 31, 2015 08:53
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BoostCreep posted:Holy poo poo you people are dark. I wasn't talking about women, or sportsball. I was talking about having to sort through a wiring harness. 
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Jan 31, 2015 18:41
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Stealing this from the awesome AI thread, but thought of you as soon as I seen it This should be you in your running Bricklin by the end of '15
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Feb 17, 2015 00:59
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I'll do my best, but I can't grow a stache that thick and luxurious.
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Feb 17, 2015 05:42
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Dr.Caligari posted:Stealing this from the awesome AI thread, but thought of you as soon as I seen it 
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Feb 19, 2015 18:44
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It's 2015. I'm switching to the HUGE thumbnail option. I got a few hours to play with the Brick this weekend, so I laid out the wiring harness, figured out where to mount the PCM, and ran my fuel line. Harness from PSi. So glad I went with a pre-built harness instead of piecing the stock one together with bubblegum and duct tape.  I'm going to put the PCM here, which should hopefully be ok. The harness is designed to mount the PCM inside the car, but there is no hole big enough in the fiberglass to run wires through and I don't want to make a new one. Plus it's already super cramped inside as is.  Harness roughly in place. Doesn't make sense to actually connect anything yet since I have to pull the engine/tranny again soon. Also you can see the tip of the braided SS fuel line going to the rail.  None of the pictures really came out well of where I routed the fuel line since the camera is so close to everything under the car, so this one will have to do. I'm running the line under the bottom side of the frame rail on the driver side away from the engine and transmission, yet still protected from side collisions by the frame rail itself. This is roughly where the stock lines run (which are just above the SS line), so it makes the most sense.  I don't have any pictures yet, but I decided to move the location of the surge tank to the bottom side of the trunk instead of behind the rear seat. This will give me more space to run all the fuel lines and will also shorten the lines needed to get to the tank and lift pump. Pictures to come. I also ordered 12 quarts of Dex 6 ATF and all my AN fittings for the fuel lines. Next weekend I plan on pulling the engine/tranny one last time to install the torque converter and fill the tranny with fluid. If I have time after that, I'll finish plumbing the fuel lines and get the surge tank mounted in its new position. And here's a quick doodle that explains the fuel system.  God I hope it works. Short list of things to do to start the engine as of 3/30/15: Install torque converter and finally mate the engine and transmission for good. Fill tranny with ATF. Bolt transmission to rear crossmember. Still need to figure this part out, but shouldn't be too difficult. $ Buy a gear selector switch and figure out how to connect it to the shifter. Install starter (already purchased along with ARP mounting bolts) Install alternator. Install water pump spacers and water pump. Make 90 degree connections for heater lines from the water pump. Like this, only 90 degree fittings:  Bolt down intake manifold and throttle body. Figure out how to connect the throttle cable. Figure out where to plumb the steam line from the heads. $ Buy/figure out the radiator and fans, hoses, wiring. Install headers and plumb exhaust using mostly stock exhaust parts. Mount PCM and fuse box along with connecting the rest of the wiring and fuel pumps. Run new heater hoses. Have new driveshaft made. Start it? I know I'm forgetting some things.
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Mar 31, 2015 01:04
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BoostCreep posted:It's 2015. I'm switching to the HUGE thumbnail option. That harness looks great. From the pics, it looks like that PCM location might have an issue with water intrusion though  - is there any way you could fab up some type of watertight enclosure for it, or adapt something like this from another car to hold it?
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Mar 31, 2015 01:15
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Black88GTA posted:That harness looks great. From the pics, it looks like that PCM location might have an issue with water intrusion though With the car's questionable level of water resistance from the factory, there's a good chance the PCM will get just as wet inside the cabin as in the engine bay. I likely won't be driving this car in the rain very much in SoCal, but that is a good point. I'll see if there's some kind of waterproof enclosure for the LS style PCM. And yeah, the quality of the harness is top notch. It's not even close to the most expensive harness on the market either, coming in at $815 shipped with a programmed PCM with VATS removal, LS2 style injector connectors, and the TCC/Brake switch. I'm going to sell the stock PCM, truck intake, harness, throttle body, and injectors when I get around to it to help offset the cost.
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Mar 31, 2015 01:47
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Those ECUs are designed to be in an engine bay, marginally protected from direct water spray by the plastic inner fenders of a truck. As long as the connectors aren't facing straight up, it should be fine - at worst, you need to make sure the connectors face down so water drains naturally away from them, I can't remember if factory Vortec ECU placement has the connectors to the side or the bottom. Side or bottom is probably fine. Looking good - think you'll have it done by summer at this point?
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Mar 31, 2015 01:55
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That harness gives me funny feelings.
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Mar 31, 2015 02:09
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Looking good! 2 things, make sure the tank return is 3/8in or bigger, as you don't want to pressurize the surge tank, and you might not be able to run 90 degree fittings on the heater stuff. It looks like the barbs are close enough to interfere when screwing them in. A pipe to AN fitting, then a 90deg AN to hose (or even pushlock) might be the way to go there. Also like kastein said, didn't GM mount the ecms in the engine compartment usually? I think you'll be fine.
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Mar 31, 2015 02:33
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I can't wait to see this running.
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Mar 31, 2015 02:40
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kastein posted:Those ECUs are designed to be in an engine bay, marginally protected from direct water spray by the plastic inner fenders of a truck. As long as the connectors aren't facing straight up, it should be fine - at worst, you need to make sure the connectors face down so water drains naturally away from them, I can't remember if factory Vortec ECU placement has the connectors to the side or the bottom. Side or bottom is probably fine. I'm aiming to have the engine running/car moving before the summer heat really kicks in here, so hopefully before July. I think the ECU will be ok since this car won't be driven a ton of miles and definitely not in the rain when I can help it. They literally leaked like sieves from the factory and I don't want to be driving around wearing goggles. Data Graham posted:That harness gives me funny feelings. Me too. I've already defiled it. mafoose posted:Looking good! The return on the gas tank sending unit itself is 5/16" to match the FPR return to the surge tank. I am planning on running 3/8" lines everywhere, but the hardware will be a bottleneck. If gas starts squirting out of the surge tank I'll make some modifications. Hopefully it won't be a problem. As for the heater lines, I might actually be able to get away with the 45 degree angles if I offset them from each other. You can see the clearance problems here. There's about a half inch of clearance with the stock press fit pieces there.  Jealous Cow posted:I can't wait to see this running. You and me both. I sat in the car and made the appropriate vroom noises with my mouth yesterday, as well as the vviiiiittttt noise of the pistons opening and closing the doors.
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Mar 31, 2015 03:25
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I just ordered the gear selector/NSS for the 4l60e. I tried to visit the website where I ordered my transmission to find the company declared bankruptcy in Sept of last year. Not a great omen. I'm tempted to take it to a local transmission shop and have them tear into it to see if it's any good, but I think I'll just get it in there and hope for the best. If nothing else I'll at least have a rebuildable core.
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Mar 31, 2015 03:53
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kastein posted:Those ECUs are designed to be in an engine bay, marginally protected from direct water spray by the plastic inner fenders of a truck. As long as the connectors aren't facing straight up, it should be fine - at worst, you need to make sure the connectors face down so water drains naturally away from them, I can't remember if factory Vortec ECU placement has the connectors to the side or the bottom. Side or bottom is probably fine. What Ken said. GM has been placing ECUs under the hood for a long time now. I know my own ECU has been soaked multiple times during nasty storms (gotta get dem pizzas out), and it's given slightly less than a single thrust of a gently caress. Stock, mine is mounted about a 100 degree angle to the ground, and pretty far forward in the engine bay (enough that it can easily get drenched by rain getting sucked through the radiator by the fan, and by road spray).
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Mar 31, 2015 06:54
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Fair enough - it appears that it's not worth worrying about. I wasn't sure if that ECU was weatherproofed by design or not, especially since the harness was designed to route inside the passenger compartment. My concern was mainly based on my own vehicles (Prelude has ECU / TCU mounted just ahead of the passenger side footwell inside, BMW has a giant weatherproof box under the hood, SVX has it under the dash). Never looked for the one in my truck, but based on the replies here, I'm guessing it's under the hood somewhere. Well, that and the guy who just had to replace the ECU in his Lamborghini after it got shorted out in the car wash. 
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Mar 31, 2015 22:31
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"The" ECU? Which one? (Gallardos have three, one for each bank and one for the trans)
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Mar 31, 2015 23:10
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There was also the guy with a Cayman who blew his up by buffing the car.
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Mar 31, 2015 23:23
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BoostCreep posted:I just ordered the gear selector/NSS for the 4l60e. I tried to visit the website where I ordered my transmission to find the company declared bankruptcy in Sept of last year. Not a great omen. I'm tempted to take it to a local transmission shop and have them tear into it to see if it's any good, but I think I'll just get it in there and hope for the best. If nothing else I'll at least have a rebuildable core. Hopefully that has more to do with the atrocious business practices many shops have and not the quality of their work. There's a decent amount of room to put in different fittings - some people just plug them and drill / tap the pump above them: 
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Apr 1, 2015 00:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:Hopefully that has more to do with the atrocious business practices many shops have and not the quality of their work. That's an interesting idea, thanks. Looks like 1/2" and 3/8" NPT is what everyone is using. This will be an easier fix than I thought. Thanks! Also it seems people are tapping the inlet side of the water pump with a 1/4" tap for the steam line. That'll be an easy fix too.
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Apr 1, 2015 00:39
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That's one option, the other is something like this setup: I have been using a much lower end version of this for years. Bought this from JagsThatRun and will switch to it when I redo my cooling hoses. It will also double as an adapter since the old GM radiator hoses are larger than the LS1 fittings and I'm tired of fudging it.
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Apr 1, 2015 03:47
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I was worried about the ECU too, not necessarily from driving in the rain, I tend to soak my car's nooks and crannies just from washing it. But I think you guys are right, it's probably no problem. Nice to see some more progress, I've enjoyed this thread from the beginning.
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Apr 1, 2015 07:33
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Fuel system fittings came in. I just need either a banjo fitting for the check valve that came with the Bosch 044 or I need to spend $45 on a high flow check valve that will double as a 6AN connector out of the pump. This guy: http://www.powerhouseracing.com/p-4834-phr-6an-check-valve-for-bosch-044-fuel-pump.aspx I've read conflicting reports on whether a check valve is needed with a Bosch 044, but with my fairly convoluted fuel system I think it's a good idea. I also read the banjo fitting restricts flow, so this high flow valve seems to be the best bet even if it costs as much as all my other AN fittings and hard line quick disconnects together.   Eh I'll probably just order the drat check valve. At least I know it'll work. I have a friend coming by to help pull the engine and transmission on Saturday so I can install the torque converter and flex plate, fill the transmission, and torque the oil pan bolts all in one day. Otherwise working the hoist and maneuvering the engine/tranny combo alone will a really long process as I've learned. This marks the first time I've had another set of hands on this project since getting help taking the doors off in 2012.
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Apr 8, 2015 06:36
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Weak motor mounts confirmed. These will be welded by a pro as soon as I get a chance. At least the "engineering" part of the mounts is done. These just need a more powerful welder and someone capable of wielding it. Hopefully Krakkles' uncle can help out in a few weeks.  Flexplate installed.  Filling the TC with minimal spillage.  Installed with both "clunks", also minimal spillage.  And back together.  And back in!  I've never made my own SS fuel lines before. This wasn't too bad considering I didn't have a vise or any of the special AN fitting tools. Took about 10 minutes to get the first one done. Only 7 more to go!    Also installed the starter. The ARP bolts had this weird pattern to them which I thought was a strange design choice until I realized it's because they were thicker than the aluminum bracket for the starter and I had to basically bore my way through as I turned the bolts.    I can't figure out if there's some kind of plate that goes between the starter and the transmission. I haven't found anything in pictures on the internet, but it seems not correct to see the flexplate like this. (starter removed)  Does anyone have any info on this? Is it normal to let water and stuff splash off the back of the flexplate?
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Apr 12, 2015 21:46
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My th350 has been missing its bottom cover since day one, so I hope so 
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Apr 12, 2015 21:52
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They are commonly called dust covers or inspection covers. The stamped steel or plastic ones should be pretty cheap.
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Apr 13, 2015 00:17
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They should also be easy to find, just go to the junkyard and find any GM V8 equipped vehicle someone has bought the engine from. Pick the cover up off the ground, it's probably within 10 feet of the engine bay, and go pay $5 for it.
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Apr 14, 2015 00:29
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Did you already order the check valve? They're really only necessary in systems that don't prime the pump when keyed on, and help start the engine a little quicker. Dunno how much you spent on everything but to me it sounds like it's not worth it.
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Apr 14, 2015 05:12
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 10:16 |
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And now I'm out of posts to read. Just read through the whole thing, can't wait for that first clip of you firing it up. I had never heard of a Bricklin before this. Even though I like cars, I'm not a 'car guy' per se, but I do very much enjoy seeing these project threads. I wish you the best of luck and I'll be eagerly awaiting updates. 
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Apr 18, 2015 21:04
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