|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PYt0SDnrBE Man, it's so close. I say pull the fuel line off the carb, point it at a bucket, give it some cranks, and see what's coming out of there. Should give you an idea of what kind of flow you're getting anyway.
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2019 20:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 13:03 |
|
|
It is legitimately that hot out here right now, so, yeah. It's also more humid than normal. I'll poke at it some tonight and see if I can get it to actually run.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2019 20:45
|
|
|
A small step forward, a big step back. Hooked up a timing light (had to buy one of my own finally!) and confirmed that I do in fact have spark while it's sputtering. Gave it a whiff of starter fluid and it stumbled a moment longer, but then I noticed the wiring harness on the driver's side firewall was starting to leak some wisps of smoke. So I yanked it apart. Colorful spaghetti. Someone has definitely been in here before since it's all covered up in brittle split loom and goopy electrical tape, along with great examples of why soldering unsupported wiring harnesses loving sucks.  Hard to tell but that brown-ish wire that turns black is actually a "translucent" resistor wire that feeds the coil. It's turning black because it was trying to burn, and probably ensuring the coil was getting lovely voltage after the starter +12V goes away from it.  I'm not sure what that... brown/black? cloth insulated wire went to originally. Perhaps a headlight position switch?  One of the ground wires on the coil is just hanging by a thread. Edit: Looks like the nearly-severed green wire is the tach signal.  View from the passenger side. I think those two navy blue wires are possibly what was added for the fuel pump? Which, if I'm right, makes no loving sense, but who the gently caress knows. Edit:  All the poo poo I yanked and pitched. I'll see if I can get my hands on a 3 ohm ignition coil with regular spade connectors on it and start rewiring from there. It would let me ditch the resistor wire, as well as the starter-fed +12V, and the weird bullet connector with the two green wires. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 09:13 on Jul 28, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2019 08:08
|
|
|
Well that went downhill fast. I'm no longer mistified by wiring/electrical, but I still hate it. Condolences.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2019 10:46
|
|
|
The upshot is that, when working in any one area of the car, the wiring really is pretty simple. It's just really loving badly designed, using materials that have not aged well. I mean, this is the entire wiring diagram. Messy, yes, but any individual circuit is pretty simple. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Jul 29, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2019 04:16
|
|
|
No further progress on the Opel yet. Got one of the coilovers half mounted on the C10, but been stuck on the second. The lower mounts use a bar pin style mount, except with external snap rings to preload the shock bushing. The first one was hard, and I've bent at least two snap rings on the second trying to get it together. Worked on the Jeep until I started getting overheated. Replaced the master cylinder - and given the puddle of brake fluid in the booster, it's been leaking slowly there for a while. Also replaced all three hoses with longer ones to get rid of some janky brake hose relocators the original owner put on with the lift kit. Still need to bleed the whole thing though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2019 19:35
|
|
|
Brakes bled on the TJ and it feels much, much better now. Also spent some time mounting and wiring in the CB and VHF/UHF radios, which apparently I didn't bother taking a single picture of yet. So the CR-V has, on a few occasions now, made a sound on cold startup that sounded almost like the starter was getting dragged along. Found a video that sounded exactly like it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kR20baoXbo8 Which, of course, is the VTC actuator. And at 155k miles I'm not going to bother trying to get any goodwill repair out of Honda. Knowing how much of a pain this type of job would have been on the MS3, my initial reaction to my wife was "what do you want to trade it in on", but as it turns out Honda has literally published the goddamn instructions as part of the TSB. It can be done without pulling the timing chain, which also means not having to pull the harmonic balancer, front cover, or oil pan, and the revised Honda part is ~$170 at a local dealership.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2019 20:42
|
|
|
LMAO, that would have been real nice to know before I just just a valve adjustment. Ours does this very occasionally as well. Reading on some forum posts tho, I'm seeing some people claim that the updated VTC eventually started making the noise as well? Has me thinking about trading the drat thing in
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2019 22:28
|
|
|
I mean, if it took until 155k to make any consistent and loud sound... I can't imagine the updated part will be worse in that regard? The funny thing is it hasn't been remotely cold at all here. Lows in the high 80s / low 90s. I also don't see anyone claiming even any check engine lights caused by ignoring this long term, let alone any engine damage. I don't think it's capable of a failure mode that would leave the cam completely uncontrolled. If I can get another 50-100k out of the car, I'll be happy. I wouldn't mind trading it in on something newer and quieter since all this vehicle gets used for is racking up stupid amounts of miles, but "no car payment" still sounds more attractive.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2019 23:07
|
|
|
The forum posts I found to the effect, claimed that the failure puts a slight drag on the timing chain, with can eventually cause the chain tensioner to fail with predictable results in an interference engine. Obviously with the massive numbers of these engines on the road, it can't be a very common failure. There are also people who claim that cycling the key to accessory before starting keeps it from grinding. Not sure how the system works, but I suppose if the failure is related to the VTC not re-setting to the unlocked position with the engine still running, maybe getting 12v power to whatever controls it with the engine off will do it? I dunno, but either way I'm in a similar position with it. I don't want to spend a bunch to avoid this maybe non-issue, but I also don't want to weigh swapping an engine vs scrapping a 7yo vehicle that we bought new. Dammit Honda!
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2019 23:49
|
|
|
I saw that video claiming key-cycling "fixes" it but since it relies on oil pressure, I don't see how cycling the key would do anything? Already got the part ready for pickup at a dealer, I might attempt it this weekend or wait until next.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2019 00:10
|
|
|
Of course now it doesn't make the noise hardly ever again. I'll get to it eventually  Meant to post this the other day, finally got the electronics in the TJ mostly done:  Leixen VV-898 on the top of the center console, Uniden CMX760 hanging on the right / with the base station mounted behind the mechless head unit. Still need to get my license so I can actually transmit Ripped out the shittacular JVC head unit and halfway-broken install kit to install a Pioneer MVH-S310BT. Found a few of the wires on the harness adapter had a nice slice going through the insulation. Also hardwired a USB power supply in for my dashcam. The only thing I want to do on the audio still is replace the apparently dead sub in the center console.Threw a few switches in the center console. Left one is set up with a relay to be able to toggle the clutch safety switch off, center one controls the radios. Right one does nothing right now - might eventually hardmount my compressor underhood and use that switch to trigger a relay for it. I was supposed to run the back way to Crown King today, but overnight the heat pump stopped working. Threw a fan, contactor, and capacitor at it and it's been slowly bringing things down from 87 degrees inside.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2019 23:42
|
|
|
Swapped shocks in the TJ today. Old ones were KYB Monomax in the front, Rancho RS500x (or 5000x or whatever the gently caress). New ones are Bilstein 5100s all around, courtesy of Jamal. I don't know why TJ people think 5100s are too stiff, they definitely ride better than the Ranchos. Fronts were a bit closer but still in favor of the Bilsteins. Of course it probably wasn't helped by the fact that the Ranchos were for a 4" lift and my Wrangler only has a 3" lift. The weather is finally starting to cool off a bit more reliably so I can start making more real progress on the truck and the Opel.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2019 07:36
|
|
|
You've probably changed the serp belt on the CR-V by now, but if you haven't I'm pretty sure ours was original and swapping in a new Bando seems to have quieted it down at idle. The old belt wasn't obviously worn or cracked, but I noted the new belt had much more rounded v-grooves and seemed more pliable. No marks that I could find on the old one to indicate age. I had noticed an odd sound at idle when the AC compressor cycled on, which I guess was the tensioner dealing with a little too much slack. We had been doing services at the dealer and I assumed it would have been done by now, but I'll have to check the records.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2019 21:23
|
|
|
Yeah I did mine proactively around 100k. I did have an odd situation where using a Continental belt gunked up all the pulleys and made it noisy - but a new Honda belt fixed it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2019 22:59
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkGlsgivfcA
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2019 18:19
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:The weather is finally starting to cool off I hate you. Austin just broke the record for the hottest September ever. Heat indexes still close to 110, 15 days over 100 this month.  I know Phoenix is (much) hotter overall, but most of Texas has usually had at least one or two cold fronts roll through by now.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2019 15:56
|
|
|
We still were close to the record for most days at or above 110, as well as near the record latest 110 degree day in the year. Did plugs and coil boots on the TJ today. Right to left cylinders 1 to 6. Nothing to worry about on them other than these Autolites having been in long enough to corrode a bit around the threads since they're super cheap black oxide plugs. Seems like the PO's shop didn't antiseize them either. Gap was anywhere from .035" to .060" - spec is .035". I do like non-crossflow engines for how easy they are to do plugs on, at least.  Also noticed some of the rubber in the evap system is dead. Specifically the big rubber hose from the leak detection pump to the filter, and the little 90 degree elbow. The big one is still available from Mopar, the little one is not.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2019 20:49
|
|
|
My least favorite thing about working on a vehicle is a specialized rubber hose that is not available. Radiator Hoses, pcv hoses, molded fuel inlets... I really need there to be a bunch of complex shaped premolded hoses sold as universal where I can just snip the sections I need and combine them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2019 04:49
|
|
|
Doesn't Omix-Ada make most of this stuff as a replacement now?
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2019 00:20
|
|
|
th vwls hv scpd posted:Doesn't Omix-Ada make most of this stuff as a replacement now? Doesn't seem to be the case. Got the replacement in for the big one, haven't bothered looking closely for the small one yet. Finally got off my rear end and changed the rear gear oil in the TJ. poo poo came out practically silver, despite there being no unusual noises or visible damage inside.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2019 07:38
|
|
|
Changed the gear oil in the front axle tonight. I think it had been serviced more recently than the rear because while dirty, the fluid was far from filthy like the rear. Also had grey RTV gooped everywhere instead of black. Also poked around the front end and gave all the joints a shot of lube. The boots on a few of them are pretty unhappy due to age. Worst offender was the one on the track bar that developed a pinhole. Speaking of the track bar... does this look like a factory TJ frame-side mount? I think it is but those welds are something else.  Given the position of the adjuster I'm inclined to think this is a Teraflex track bar, or a clone of one... and that ball joint doesn't look replaceable or rebuildable. Can't find a marking anywhere on it for the life of me.  I'm kinda tempted to swap it out for something like the JKS HD with a Johhny Joint in it, but I don't know how much (or if) that would actually improve things. It could probably benefit more from new tie rods (and at that point I'd probably do something like this one-ton kit.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2019 07:17
|
|
|
LOL, Jeep frame welds not well-done, color me shocked.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2019 12:44
|
|
|
Those are not well done but they don't look like factory sloppy welds to me. My gut tells me someone else welded that thing on. Though it does appear to be a factory track bar mount forging.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2019 14:57
|
|
|
Yeah, so that strap of plate in between the "feet" on the frame rail definitely isn't factory, and the welds, while they do look sloppy, don't look factory-sloppy. Factory-sloppy has a particular look, like the bead is consistent end to end except for the start and stop areas and it might not be exactly on the seam or have the same penetration, but at least the speed and wire feed and current are constant. That looks like someone did the welds after the fact from under the Jeep. I hate to say it but look for evidence of a frame section splice on the inboard side of that frame rail area, this thing might have been in an accident and that's the spot they chose to splice a new front frame section in at.
kastein fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Oct 10, 2019 |
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2019 15:06
|
|
|
I haven't seen any evidence of frame splicing, though I'll check again (and get some more pictures of the welds). Given the wear and tear on it (the original owner wheeled this thing pretty hard) I'm inclined to think perhaps they cracked / bent the mount originally. The track bar itself definitely isn't the one that came with the cheap lift kit. The welds look pretty similar to some boogering done on the rear track bar relocation bracket, now that I think about it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2019 16:04
|
|
|
Did the brakes for the second time on the CR-V - realized while doing so that it's only the second vehicle I've ever owned where I've done brakes more than once. I suppose when I'm getting something like 80k out of a set of pads, that will happen. Fronts still had plenty of life but the rears were done. One of the rear pads was so low that you could still make out where the pad material was, and there wasn't any backing plate to rotor contact... but that was about it. Also spent some time poking around the Wrangler, deeper cleaning on the interior (found some "insufficient funds" receipts from the PO, whoops) and investigating why the subwoofer didn't do anything. Confirmed a good +12V/ground at the plug, so took it apart further. The rubber surround was completely gone. I suspect the coils were probably open circuit too but either way, that thing clearly died a long time ago. Ordered a Kicker 6.75" subwoofer and a Kicker 200W mono amp since they should be installable in the same place. The amp only has a 20A fuse in it so it can actually be powered by the factory wiring as well, though I'll still run RCA leads from the head unit instead of relying on the speaker-level outputs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2019 19:18
|
|
|
Installed the sub and the amp tonight - I'm totally going to buy another one of these for the C10 if/when I ever get around to building a sub box for it. Just loud enough and a lot smaller than most subs, and it sounds good.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2019 08:08
|
|
|
I should be spamming this thread with all the Jeep poo poo I've been posting in the 4x4 thread. Goddamnit. Drove it home but the steering wheel is at 45 degrees. Wheel itself is bent, fender damage, both parts of the bumper cover are in rough shape.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2019 03:15
|
|
|
Damnit. Bumper dropped exactly like that on ours when my wife wrecked it (at like two months old lol). What happened? Did it involve that high curbing at the sidewalk? 
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2019 03:28
|
|
|
I wish. I done hosed up and misread a roundabout, thought the inside lane had to keep going around. It didn't. Took the hit pretty much on the front left wheel. My back and left shoulder are a bit sore, my wife is hurting a bit more. Already got checked out and nothing is broken at least.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2019 05:06
|
|
|
Oh yeah that'll do it. Get some rest and take some pain meds, hope y'all feel better. FWIW, the bumper parts were about $450 and a fender was $333 on our last incident. Fortunately we've never had any damage that was beyond cosmetic. Hopefully the steering is just a FUBAR rack.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2019 06:16
|
|
|
I'm sure he'd prefer it if it's a bent tie rod instead of the rack..
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2019 07:47
|
|
|
Having just done a steering rack on my firstgen AWD CR-V, yeah a tie rod would be much, much better. That was a pain-in-the-rear end job.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2019 10:48
|
|
|
Given the nature of known failures of the electric rack especially in early cars like these, I'd prefer for insurance to pay for it to be swapped out with everything else.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2019 12:49
|
|
|
Body shop thinks it's just the strut (and wheel) that are bent, though they're also shotgunning most of the bodywork on the front / corner and underlying plastics. So while in theory I could have DIY'ed it back on the road with junkyard parts, this has also stacked up with me getting some sort of turbo stomach bug that has absolutely kicked my rear end, and I do not feel like doing that much wrenching. Deductible + possible rental car it is.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2019 21:05
|
|
|
Okay so last week for the most part can go gently caress itself, with aforementioned self-induced car crash and not-self-induced being violently ill. poo poo I did the weekend before things hit the fan: Soldier's Pass, near the Seven Pools:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G98ct7sB-Yg Submarine Rock on Broken Arrow:    Same location as the video above:  He took the alternate path up:   Coming down Devil's Staircase, much to my wife's great chagrin:  This was vastly easier in the TJ than it would have been in the WJ - between the smaller overhangs and the manual transmission. In first / 4LO, I was hardly even on the brake, it just kept on crawling downhill at a reasonable pace. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWEpaiq5IT8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ8SaFKuE5Y Schnebly Hill Road - which honestly kinda sucks as a trail but the views are loving phenomenal:    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbG5bD5amU8 Been racking up the miles in the Wrangler this week since the Honda is still at the bodyshop. I got the official estimate and there's enough hours devoted to repair that there's likely been some subframe damage. Not that I'm too concerned about it. It's expected to be done early next week which won't be a moment too soon.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2019 23:23
|
|
|
Do those pink jeeps drive you nuts? I rented a UTV for a half day in Sedona and had a blast bombing around the trails and did some really technical stuff too. But was always getting stuck behind those things. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2019 13:47
|
|
|
Nah, but I'm also driving trails about the same pace as they are. The closest we had to a problem was when my friend took the wrong path on Broken Arrow and we both had to back down the trail a bit.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2019 14:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 13:03 |
|
|
So the Jeep has been marking its territory with a random blurp of oil out the front of the oil pan gasket every once in a while. I hate oil stains so this has to be fixed. Ordered a Felpro oil pan gakset and a Dorman pan since my original pan has a sizable dent in it. "Looks easy enough, weather's nice, I'll knock it out in a few hours."   loving exhaust took forever to drop. The three nuts on the cat inlet were fine, three of the downpipe bolts were obnoxious but doable, but the fourth one was a motherfucker. Also, whoever laid out the O2 sensor harness was smoking some good rear end poo poo because it makes no loving sense to have both pre-cat O2s come up behind the intake, one post-cat O2 go to a harness right on the block, and the other post-cat O2 has a mile-long wire on the sensor running to a connector hidden on the top of the loving bellhousing.  The offending bolt. After that it's just a shitload of fasteners on the oilpan and off it comes.  Dropped the starter for a bit more room and decided to yank the entire battery harness, which is actually pretty trivial to do on a TJ. I bought some much nicer battery cables since the terminals on these were getting pretty loving sketchy.   Confirmed the leak through the front. Unfortunately, as I would soon realize, it wasn't the gasket failing - the threads for the two bolts in the bottom center of the timing cover are pretty much trash. The bolts grab but only just. The gasket has clearly been done at least twice before, since the gasket I pulled off had some weird translucent RTV on it, and underneath that was some lazily-scraped-away grey or black. For reasons to be shown shortly, I ended up just goobering some Ultra Black across that whole section in hopes that it holds.  Things look relatively clean for a 180k-200k engine (speedo was never calibrated for 33s, so it depends on when the 33s went on for the first time). But I've been hearing some clacking on startup that used to be rare and has been getting more common on cold starts. So I decide to poke at things. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEpmt6vmRpM That's me putting the same amount of force on the rods for 1, 2, and 3. 3/4/5/6 all sound pretty much the same (i.e. no noise at all), 1 clacks a bit, 2 clacks a lot with no real effort. I fully admit I've never done this with any other engine but I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to do that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etS_M88Z2BU This was the startup many hours later. Good oil pressure, no glitter in the oil, but... yeah. Part of what took so much time getting it together is I had to figure out a solution for that hosed downpipe bolt (and then wrestle the loving cats / downpipe into place). Turns out that the collector bolts on an '02 TJ are indeed through bolts with speed-nuts on the manifold, M10x1.5 thread. Luckily enough the bolts that held the factory A/C compressor bracket on my LS1 are also M10x1.5, just a bit longer. Had to cut more threads onto them and ran a tap through the speed nut to clean it up. So far so good? I haven't driven it any further than putting it back on its side of the driveway since I still need to do some zip ties and split loom on the new battery cables So, sometime after I get the C10 back on the road, the Opel on the road, and the maintenance I've been ignoring on the CR-V... I guess it's time for another V8. I'm still going to drive it until either a) I get enough money set aside for a LS or b) the 4.0 blows up. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Dec 23, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2019 06:42
|
|