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IOwnCalculus posted:We're also, to my knowledge, the only state that still enforces emissions testing all the way back to model year 1967. Every state is weird. I did have to pass emissions with my 66 in Denver metro but only once upon the car entering the state. It was a lifetime test and I never would have had to do it again. It also was a 1500/2500 RPM no load test that I failed the first time. I rebuilt my carbs and passed the second time.
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Feb 4, 2024 07:50
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've got access to Chilton Library and it sure looks like a FSM to me, but P24A5 is pretty straightforward. Open invite for any future stuff you might need. If nothing else it probably has more info on DTCs and conditions which they set, and associated codes that sometimes set at the same time.
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Feb 4, 2024 13:17
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Raluek posted:okay, i am even more surprised that it's stricter than california. i thought we were the trend-setters with these sorts of restrictions, and other states kind of copied our requirements if they wanted to have similar. i wouldn't have expected arizona to clamp down even harder. three of my four vehicles, legal in CA, would not be in AZ, sounds like. wild. CA is definitely stricter in many ways - there's no mandate in AZ for CARB EO numbers for headers or intakes or other mods you put on a car, and we don't require OE catalytic converters. Technically everything 1967-95 is supposed to get a visual inspection to go with the sniffer test, but the average emissions dyno employee just goes "yep, it's an engine" and moves on. And yeah, the density of where most people actually live in AZ is not too far off of a good chunk of CA. We lack true urban high-density but the suburban sprawl is unending.
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Feb 4, 2024 19:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:CA is definitely stricter in many ways - there's no mandate in AZ for CARB EO numbers for headers or intakes or other mods you put on a car, and we don't require OE catalytic converters. Technically everything 1967-95 is supposed to get a visual inspection to go with the sniffer test, but the average emissions dyno employee just goes "yep, it's an engine" and moves on. ah, so you're saying that while engine swaps are not kosher according to the law, it's not really enforced as long as you can pass the sniffer test. probably you couldn't get away with swapping a 4-cyl or 6-cyl with a carbureted V8, but LS swaps are still on the table.
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Feb 4, 2024 23:59
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Yeah. I even went through emissions once on my C10 post-swap since I had that done before the classic exemption existed. Granted, it never had any specific emissions control devices, but they didn't say so much as a peep about the obviously much newer engine underhood. I've never heard of anyone getting any beef for cylinder-count swaps either, if it passes the sniffer for whatever the original spec was, or if it can lie and match the VIN for an OBD2 chassis. Fun fact, an uncatted LS1 actually puts out slightly more emissions than a tired-as-gently caress carbureted 350.
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Feb 5, 2024 02:26
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quote:
Small amounts of progress made. This week loving sucked weather-wise and nearly the whole week's wrenching time was lost to some combination of "too cold", "too wet", "too windy", or working around the yard to recover from those three. The wiring harness for the switches is made up, I just need to butt-connect it in the car because working with my cheap version of DT connectors and crimpers sucks anywhere that isn't a workbench.  B&M shifter on, and holy poo poo the throws are short. What isn't shown is that it took three tries on reinstalling that black plate that the shift boot bolts to, to get to this point. First attempt failed because I didn't punch clear enough holes in the new foam tape to see where the screws go. Second attempt, I tried it in the wrong order and had the transfer case shifter locked down too much and had to remove the whole mess to realign it. Third attempt was after the second attempt was complete and realizing that the way tolerances have stacked up on this TJ, the boot on the B&M was extremely close to rubbing on that black plate as normally configured. Loosened it up enough to use some adjustable wrenches to tweak the front lip up and gained some clearance. Also ended up grinding the screw that goes in that front-most hole down to as small as I could get away with, to reduce the odds that it contacts and cuts that B&M boot. Further installed but not photographed: the lower shift boot, the center console, the upper shift boot, and the B&M shift knob. The transfer case shifter feels much better without those pointless detents in the way. A small part of me wishes I had some UHMW tape on hand to put on that left rail or around the lever itself, but that's not really necessary. Next up this week is going to be the final wiring on the interior, reinstalling everything in/around the dash, starting on underhood work... and then stopping wherever I get on that and renting a car midweek because the Canyon's registration expires in a few days. As unlikely as it is that I'll get pulled over for driving on expired tags that go up mid-month instead of month-end, I'd rather just get it dealt with, and renting a car means I can rip the Canyon apart without trying to get it back together same day. I have a sneaky suspicion that when I pull the EGR apart I won't just find carbon deposits, and literally nothing for the EGR is on a shelf at any parts store or dealer nearby. Completely unrelated, my mom was cleaning out the closet in my old bedroom and came across a stash I could've sworn I'd gotten rid of:  For some unknown reason I didn't have the games stashed in the same spot and I have no clue where they're at, so I'll have to see about acquiring some. The DMG and Pocket both fired up with fresh batteries. The GBC fired up with the batteries that were still in it. At the very least my kid is going to experience what Pokemon was like a long, long time ago. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Feb 12, 2024 |
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Feb 12, 2024 06:37
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Rented a car since the Canyon's registration is now expired and I need to get poo poo fixed one way or another. Pile of parts removed for access.  All just to create room to get at the engine on the driver's side.  I think I can avoid removing the A/C compressor like the FSM wants - there's only one bolt that was obscured by it and I managed to get at it with an offset box wrench to break it loose, then a universal to get it most of the rest of the way. Lower-left corner of the photo, immediately to the right of another bolt that's just threaded back into the hole it came out of. I've also got the upper coolant hose to the EGR cooler pulled off of the cooler itself.  Driver's wheel and fender liner removed to get access straight in from the side. At the very least I'm going to need this access to get at the upper radiator hose, and probably also the other coolant hose on the EGR cooler. Both are just barely visible in that slot of access between the upper shock/spring perch and the fender itself.
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Feb 17, 2024 22:10
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By viewing this post you are affirming that you are not Anish Kapoor, nor are you viewing this post on behalf of Anish Kapoor. Boy I can't imagine why this would be throwing "EGR cooler efficiency" codes. Gonna soak this in carb cleaner later today.  The EGR manifold where this bolts to. The small rectangle inset in the top port is the flapper for the bypass and it definitely feels sticky. It will also stay wherever I put it, which I suspect is Not Right for a vacuum-operated door. Need to take another look at the diagram for how best to get my hands at the actuator because while I know approximately where it should be, I cannot get eyes on it at all. Would've been at this step on Saturday except while removing one of the six bolts that holds the cooler to the manifold, the bolt and 1/4" 5mm hex drive bit both disappeared into the void. Even with the cooler off I have no clue where the gently caress they went, except "down".
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Feb 19, 2024 20:39
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That’s not good. Any chance they went into the engine somewhere?
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Feb 19, 2024 21:38
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Advent Horizon posted:That’s not good. Any chance they went into the engine somewhere? Nah, no worries about that. The only exposed openings at the time they disappeared were the "throttle body" and the intercooler outlet, both of which are well above where the bolt came out of. I saw it land on the mess of coolant hoses but when I tried to fetch it with a magnet, I bumped it and it dropped somewhere further down that I cannot see.
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Feb 19, 2024 22:21
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Sounds like time for an Amazon cellphone borescope! If you do buy one, make sure you check the reviews to see how horrible the associated app is, and once you download the app, definitely back up the APK just in case. Also, don't buy one from depstech because those rat fuckers literally rugpulled me a few years after selling me one of these (the app was never on the Google Play store, I assume due to extreme shittiness, and once they stopped selling that model they removed it from their lovely website too) leaving me having to download like 30 random camera viewer apps till one of them happened to work with the chipset in their camera. Ironically, the app I use now is actually less buggy than the official one was, but it's offensively obnoxious with the in app ads and also still buggy enough that there's no loving way I'm paying them for it. The state of Amazon borescopes ain't great, but it's worth buying one unless you want to pay three or four times as much just to be slightly less annoyed every 6 to 18 months when you use it.
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Feb 20, 2024 02:27
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kastein posted:Sounds like time for an Amazon cellphone borescope! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PBF6DX5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Plug it into my laptop, open the windows "camera" app. Done.
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Feb 20, 2024 03:35
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IOwnCalculus posted:Nah, no worries about that. The only exposed openings at the time they disappeared were the "throttle body" and the intercooler outlet, both of which are well above where the bolt came out of. I saw it land on the mess of coolant hoses but when I tried to fetch it with a magnet, I bumped it and it dropped somewhere further down that I cannot see. One of the worst sounds when working on a car: a fastener not hitting the ground.
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Feb 20, 2024 03:36
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:One of the worst sounds when working on a car: a fastener not hitting the ground. Or a 10mm socket not hitting the ground.
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Feb 20, 2024 03:37
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kastein posted:The state of Amazon borescopes ain't great, but it's worth buying one unless you want to pay three or four times as much just to be slightly less annoyed every 6 to 18 months when you use it. Dad gave me one with a built in screen for my birthday, it's handy but I 100% do not trust the mirror attachments so it's only useful for looking straight ahead. We had an old school, external lamp, one at work a decade ago that disappeared which I really miss. Screw on tips for straight ahead, 45 degree or 90 degree and the image was so crisp.
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Feb 20, 2024 12:29
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I know I've got an endoscope somewhere. I went looking again last night when it was properly dark out and I was able to recover the bit at least. Without sunlight I was able to finally spot the tiniest glint of reflection off of the bit. It was indeed up against (and almost completely hidden by) the mess of coolant hoses. I'll try some more to recover the screw but that's not a show stopper. Already bought a few replacements, they're extremely standard M6x1.0 20mm socket head cap screws. I ran two cans of carb cleaner, a can of brake cleaner, and a can of acetone Gary left laying around, all through the cooler. Got an absolute ton of carbon out. Hosed the bypass valve in the EGR manifold down and it moves a bit better, but not great. It does at least return to the fully upright position on its own now and it doesn't take much force to open it. I'm going to put it back together over the next few days and drive cycle it. If it passes, done. If it still sets the code then I'm buying the entire EGR manifold and valve assembly, replacing it, and keeping the old one as a spare to fix/clean. Since nothing I'm doing includes eliminating EGR, I bet I'll be back in here eventually. If I get another 70k (80k on it now) before it sets a code, that gets me to the 150k timing belt service and I'll redo this as preventative when I already have the front torn apart.
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Feb 20, 2024 15:20
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No luck finding the screw but as mentioned, there's nothing it can fall into that would cause problems and I got a replacement for $2 at Ace. No photos because the rest of the job required either solvents and a shitload of carbon, or just putting things back where they came from. There was enough soot washed out of the cooler alone to leave something like a 3mm thick layer spread out on the bottom of the 5qt bucket I dumped all the acetone / brake clean / carb cleaner into to evaporate. Having done this job I think I could do it again much quicker, though I'm going to see if I can get my hands on an extra long 5mm bit driver. The extended bit drivers at HF are about 5" long and while it's way better than using a short driver and a very long extension, it puts the chrome part of the bit that goes onto the ratchet (aka the widest part) right where the EGR cooler and intake manifold are closest to each other. The computer, annoyingly, has not fully reset despite a couple hours of driving and idling. It did clear the EGR monitor and the "permanent" P24A5 and P2457 codes have cleared, so cleaning was indeed enough to fix this issue. I just need it to either run a regen or reset the "Exhaust Gas Sensor" monitor so that I get down to just one unready, and that's enough to pass. And no, a parked service regen doesn't count.
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Feb 25, 2024 22:30
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The computer set the Exhaust Gas Sensor monitor to ready, so it's ready to get scanned tomorrow. Glad to have that done so I can get back to the Jeep and then actually work on the C10 or the Opel.
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Feb 26, 2024 04:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:and then actually work on the C10 or the Opel.  I'm sure I've said it before, but the C10 was one of the first projects I recall when I signed up too many years ago, great to see it get some love again. What does it need? Opel content good too of course!
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Feb 26, 2024 04:57
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Off the top of my head, I need to go over every nut and bolt on the front suspension because I just slammed it together enough to tow it but not enough to drive it. Steering column is out of the truck, front fender liners are out of the truck and the passenger one needs some very minor rust repair, engine and cab wiring harnesses are completely out of the truck and need to be redone, I have a TBSS intake manifold to swap onto the engine, and a Vintage Air kit to install in place of the lovely factory HVAC. That plus god knows how many problems have developed from just sitting forever.
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Feb 26, 2024 05:33
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I keep forgetting you have that Opel and then you mention it and I go "oh yeah!" Got much in the way of plans for it?
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Feb 26, 2024 17:14
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Get it running and driving first and then decide. Low key want to swap something more modern but also tiny - 1.0 Ecoboost would be great but I don't like how many of those pop oil pump belts (and they're expensive as a result). Could also just enjoy it in stock-ish condition for a while, clean up some of its warts, and sell it on. I don't have any burning desire to absolutely keep that car for decades if something else comes along.
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Feb 27, 2024 06:23
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67-102hp from the factory engine right? I'm not saying you should build something ridiculous with a second gen Prius worth of BLDC goodness, I'm just saying it would literally match your max factory power output to do a 2g Prius swap because MG1s are 67hp and MG2s are 41. And that's without an ICE attached at all, just a pillow bearing on a plate to block off the bellhousing and keep the shaft centered.
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Feb 27, 2024 09:40
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kastein posted:67-102hp from the factory engine right? Giving me bad ideas. Back to the Jeep, which I'm slapping together quickly as it will make my life much easier if I have it running Friday morning, instead of making my wife drop me off halfway across town at 5am. Interior is mostly together. I did find out why the clockspring I ordered is listed as not compatible with the TJ:  It's the inner diameter of the part that centers around the column itself. The factory part has a 1" opening, the one I ordered (which I believe fits XJs) is only 3/4". Literally nobody makes the correct part for TJs anymore and the whole reason I had to replace this one is because the plastic is brittle as gently caress. Both mounting tabs, as well as both tabs that connect to the wiring harness, have broken off. I don't think the fit of the center bore is super critical since it looks like the feature on the steering wheel side of the clockspring actually engages with the wheel, so I think I can attack this with a Dremel later. I'm already going to have to go back in later to fix two things - I forgot to put the microphone for the head unit back in place before I put all the dash panels back on, and I used the wrong power supply for one of my relays (run only instead of start/run). I also discovered this little "feature" I'm 99% sure it's because the ground for everything at the LF is disconnected because the grille is off, and it's routing backwards through the washer pump trigger that also uses the same ground https://i.imgur.com/3zOR9NZ.mp4
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Mar 19, 2024 02:06
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At least according to my cursory search the old ones part number is only for 01-02, maybe for a different steering column or wheel? Not very familiar with late TJ. The pics I see of the AC rev of the same number look like your new one though, which is odd. I can only think of like 2 examples of Mopar part numbers that aren't backwards compatible on a letter rev stepping.
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Mar 19, 2024 02:59
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How do we not have a :thatschrysler: for this moment?
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Mar 19, 2024 03:35
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kastein posted:At least according to my cursory search the old ones part number is only for 01-02, maybe for a different steering column or wheel? Not very familiar with late TJ. I think this might have been what bit me, I assumed bigger letter = backward compatible rev because that's been the case on every other Mopar part. And while I swore nobody made the correct one, looks like Crown does actually sell the AB revision... for $123, instead of the $55 I paid Rockauto. Part is definitely past the return window anyway. I admit I wish the problem was the reverse because it'd either be a non-issue, or it'd be a trivial 3D-printed ring with a 3/4" ID and 1" OD.
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Mar 19, 2024 04:44
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It's normally a very solid assumption, it's one I make daily. I know three crown automotive employees if you'd like me to bug them directly and find out if this is a known wacky time or not. One of the other letter revisions that changes things is currently screwing up my life, the 97-98 XJ use cruise switches 56007530AB and 56007531AB or AC while 99-01 use AD rev and they are totally different resistance internally, the 99-01 fetch silly prices I refuse to pay and are not documented resistance wise anywhere except "not the same as 97-98". The other is an XJ transmission mount of some sort that I believe shares 8 digits with some kind of KJ interior component but I'll be damned if I can remember the details.
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Mar 19, 2024 06:05
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Nah, more knowledge isn't going to change anything for me here. My plan is still make two trips with the old clockspring jammed in place and then grind out the center of the new one to 1". I did confirm that the directional wiper is indeed just the result of a ground that's missing because the body panel that it grounds to is still off the Jeep. Got the A/C compressor back on, but in doing so discovered that the securing clip on the two-pin connector is broken. Looked up pigtails and despite it being a very widely used two-pin connector, it's $20 from Rockauto and $70 from Autozone. Zip ties to the rescue instead. Tomorrow it's slam the grille on and start attaching things to it, put fluids back in it, and see what happens from there.
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Mar 20, 2024 06:13
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man i do not like pigtailing things and adding more splices to the harness. for that price you could probably get a handful of new connector bodies and a pin extractor, just sayin... not that i know what connector series that is, maybe they're obscenely expensive for some reason. but thats the way i would approach this problem
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Mar 20, 2024 06:39
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I invited you to a Facebook group that will almost certainly know what connector it is. (Automotive Connector Identification, for anyone else who has these problems all the time.)
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Mar 20, 2024 09:09
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Identifying it isn't a problem, it's one of these - United Motor CON58 as a pigtail, WVE 1P1711 / Standard Motor S2052 as a piece-wise kit. It's just the release clip that's shattered so it doesn't actually clip into place anymore. I even have the parts on hand to replace the whole mess with a two-pin DT connector, but I didn't discover this until I'd already shoehorned the compressor back into place and  . Hell, I might even have one sitting on the factory LS harness I pulled out of the C10, but I can't bring myself to chop that up yet (even though the insulation on the fuel injector wires alone should condemn it to that fate).I'm pretty confident in my ziptie abomination (not enough to photograph it) but if I get inconsistent compressor behavior I know exactly where to start 
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Mar 20, 2024 19:49
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That's an Aptiv Apex 1.5 or 2.8mm (not sure, measure the blade width on the pin side) and should run you like a whole 1.50 or so on mouser. Probably like 6 bucks for shipping though so you'll want to get some other things and spares to make it worth the ride.
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Mar 20, 2024 20:13
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kastein posted:I invited you to a Facebook group that will almost certainly know what connector it is. (Automotive Connector Identification, for anyone else who has these problems all the time.) A) I'm not surprised that this is a Facebook Group that exists. B) I'm doubly not surprised that you are a member. 
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Mar 20, 2024 20:39
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sharkytm posted:A) I'm not surprised that this is a Facebook Group that exists. You'll also be very unsurprised that I know the connector by sight (in the Jeep thread) and the name of the last 3 companies to make it prior to several acquisitions and rebrandings It's an FCI aka Delphi aka Packard Electrical Division aka Aptiv Apex 1.5 or 2.8mm series.
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Mar 20, 2024 20:44
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kastein posted:Probably like 6 bucks for shipping though so you'll want to get some other things and spares to make it worth the ride. i usually prefer digikey for this reason; they have an inexpensive shipping tier where they throw your order in a usps envelope and it gets there when it gets there. just has to be like, under half a pound i think? do those connectors have a useful pin extractor, or do you just poke a tab with a screwdriver?
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Mar 21, 2024 07:14
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 Yeah, this is a way better look than the Amazon bug-eye LEDs. I'm not 100% sold on the mounting but I think that might be the original headlight buckets being a bit sketch / having been hosed with too many times. Back together and running with basically no time to spare, so I'll take it. I did cut a few corners and make a few non-critical errors I'll have to go back and finish/fix: *Change the clutch switch disable relay to feed from a start/run circuit instead of just run *Clean the center dash bezel since I just slammed it on to get things done and it has to come off to do the above *Finish reinstalling the CB and FRS radios *Fix the headlight wiring, since somehow I managed to mix up the high and low beam *Align the headlights, they aren't even close *Install the power steering cooler, I skipped it outright to save time *Install the A/C receiver/dryer, same as above, then vac/charge *Figure out why the onboard air compressor isn't working But as it stands it fired right up the first try, and ran/drove perfectly on the test drive without so much as a hiccup. Edit: Oh and the B&M shifter throws are ridiculously small. It's better but it's going to take some re-learning because a complete shift on that feels like "only got halfway in" with the stock shifter. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Mar 22, 2024 |
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Mar 22, 2024 05:04
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Drove it around some more after getting back in town. The more I drive it the more I like the B&M, but I definitely need to adjust how I shift because unlike the factory shifter, this thing does not like any side loading at all while exiting/entering a gate. Of course, my wife texted me while I was out of town and said the Canyon threw an airbag code. It had self-cleared before I got home but still had this logged in history:  I'll see if it sets again, and if so the FSM says I get to spend a lot of time probing circuits to see where the lovely connection is.
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Mar 25, 2024 19:05
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not knowing anything about those trucks, probably the clock spring?
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Mar 25, 2024 19:56
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It's the most likely culprit, either that or a bad connection elsewhere. On the plus side it looks like my scantool will show me live data for what the airbag computer sees for resistance on the squib. The DTC gets set if it goes over 5.1 ohms; when I scanned it last night it was at 2.8.
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Mar 25, 2024 20:13
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