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I'd very strongly suggest putting that power supply in a sealed aluminum project box, or at least adding a very conservatively rated fuse upstream of it. Chinese USB power adapters are not known for reliability or ability to keep the smoke/fire inside them, and I would hate to see the truck go up in flames because that was behind the dash. Hell, at my last job I had a supposedly high quality Cisco 120AC to 48DC IP phone power block go up in smoke. It was powering a long distance microwave link transceiver in a rack with $20k of equipment in it, and I got off the subway and got to the microwave room at the datacenter just in time to see it start smoking. If I'd missed one train or the outage report had come in a few minutes later there's no telling what would have been on fire by the time I got there.
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Oct 4, 2012 06:24
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Did a double take looking at those brakes, they're drat near the same as most of mine right down to the self adjuster hardware. In fact those self adjuster cable guides actually fit 2 of my jeeps as well as about a dozen other makes and models ranging from mazda and toyota to chrysler, international, and AMC. A lot of the shoe hold down hardware is the same exact parts too.
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Jan 1, 2013 00:54
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If I had to guess it's related to EGR, AKA pump your intake manifold full of soot and sludge that came out the exhaust. The only diesel I've seen with EGR (that's an admittedly small sample set) is a friend's TDI, and they're known for coking up the EGR cooler instead because all the crap condenses in there first.
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May 22, 2013 15:18
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My harbor freight grease gun has been thrown into the woods (preceded and followed immediately by a volley of unprintable words) more times than I care to think about. gently caress that thing, most useless piece of poo poo on the planet. The only reason I don't have a better one yet is that I'm still kinda broke and it usually works long enough to make me forget to get a new one when I'm at a store that sells them. Then I get home and it kicks me in the balls again.
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Sep 16, 2013 23:57
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Lucas makes a good grease gun because the whole point of a grease gun is to transfer any grease remaining inside to the outside as efficiently as possible. And yeah, there are no electronics on it.
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Sep 19, 2013 16:31
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Those bolt extractors must be hard enough to bite on the bolt, but soft enough to not break  I wish modern cars were that easy to work on. I think it would take me several hours to redo the locks on even one of my vehicles and all of them are at least 16 years old at this point.
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Jan 19, 2014 03:21
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There are two reasons I own a 1 5/16" socket, pitman arm nuts and dana 60 differential pinion yoke nuts. I got a 3/4" drive one... for the latter reason. Man those suckers are on there tight, and they usually aren't soaked in two decades worth of power steering fluid seepage like pitman arm nuts are, either. Looks like you lucked out and none of the steering box mounting bolts broke off in it, either. That's always the worst - I've seen it happen on entirely rust free vehicles because the idiots who designed the thing decided to use a cast aluminum mounting spacer and galvanic corrosion makes an absolute mess of everything.
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Mar 30, 2014 02:35
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Before you replace the battery on the coworkers car, is there gross poo poo all over the battery terminals? Try cleaning the posts and lugs and retightening them. A thin layer of the white powder poo poo (lead sulfate) can easily simulate a bad battery since it adds a ton of resistance in series with the battery. It'll jump start since you're hooking to the battery leads not the battery posts, and it might even run (badly) till some big load (hvac blower, headlights, radiator fan, etc) kicks in, then the ECU or voltage regulator can't crank up the field coil duty cycle fast enough to handle the load and things go to hell. If the battery's a couple years old it's more unlikely that this will work, but it takes 5 minutes and costs nothing, so I usually do it anyways.
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Sep 12, 2014 18:19
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Oh yeah, that thing's hosed for sure then. And I completely agree on side posts. It'd be one thing if the threads were like 1/2 or 5/8 diameter, but they had their heads up their asses and went with a 3/8-16 thread... yeah that's not gonna get packed with corrosion or strip out in softer-than-butter grade electrolytic lead, nope.  I don't really like the conical top post style either, since they lose grip after a while and require a shim, but they're a decent compromise between manufacturing/expense and good design. Eye lugs (like most 17Ah 12VDC gelcells for UPS/fire alarm usage have, for example) are by far the best design technically speaking. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Sep 12, 2014 |
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Sep 12, 2014 18:46
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IOwnCalculus posted:The real fun bit is the fact that seemingly nobody on LS1Tech / any other LSx-related board seems to indicate they've ever been physically able to get it the full 140 degrees or whatever it is they ask you for - it ends up somewhere well north of 200 ftlb. Best guess is it's at least partly because the balancer / crank are completely unkeyed. People running superchargers have to drill and pin the crankshaft / crank pulley. Some of the better ones have a thrust bearing as well, which is a magical experience. Kinda like my power steering pump pulley installer tool - I'd always used an assload of washers and threaded rod, etc. Used my $55 thrust-bearing based installer tool which I bought in a pinch because I absolutely had to get the thing back together ASAP so I could make it to the airport to visit my GF... I had originally planned on returning that tool because gently caress, $55 for a loving power steering pump pulley installer?  ... I still own that tool. You can have it if you can pry it from my cold, dead hands. It's absolutely amazing to crank on the wrench and have 95% of that torque actually go into tightening the fastener instead of overcoming friction on the threads and under the head. e: I'm not sure if anyone makes a premade kit for doing this on a Vortec engine but you'd basically just want to look here for a thrust bearing with a high enough max load and a large enough ID to slip easily over the crank snout you're working with, then use high grade threaded rod, steel plates, and various other redneck tricks to come up with the threaded part that applies the force. e2: the Vortec engine crank snouts are mostly 1.485"... nothing in that catalog over 1.5" is strong enough. You'd have to look elsewhere, or just say gently caress it and use the threaded rod trick which works great 99% of the time. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Jun 17, 2015 |
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Jun 17, 2015 03:48
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Wow, that looks way more dickish to get aligned than a 4.0L non-WJ motor mount or a Subaru EJ25 motor mount, which are the only ones I've really experienced. Getting the through-bolt back in must be a party.
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Jul 27, 2015 17:32
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You could always just make a blockoff plate yourself, 1/8" aluminum is cheap and really really easy to work with if you have a basic homeowner drill press and a couple files. And you can hide a lot of scratches and scribe marks and filing mistakes with a swanky "brushed aluminum" finish (i.e. wirewheel the bastard until all your sins are forgiven.)
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Nov 24, 2015 17:14
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I'm betting P0174 is in pending mode - the ECU suspects something is fucky, but doesn't have enough cycles/evidence yet to know for sure, so it's got it flagged but it isn't yet tripping the CEL/failing that monitor. If you look closely you may see an indication that it's in pending mode, the little orange code readers you can buy for way too much at the parts store usually have a "PD" legend in the corner of the LCD that comes on for pending codes and some other readers have other ways of indicating it. I'm not sure what Torque does to show a pending code, as I haven't used it yet.
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Feb 17, 2016 16:19
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Geirskogul posted:Had to do the same to my 88 olds. Drive it up to freeway speeds at least once or it died at idle. Careful what you ask for, unless you want to have to buy a 4 figure dealer scantool that can reset the computer's learned tune data (which includes the IACV running and idling positions), having it in capacitor-backed SRAM is way better for us as home mechanics. It's way nicer to not have to use a scantool to tell the ECU to forget everything, worth the occasional annoyance when replacing a battery or jumping a car, at least to me. I mean ideally there would be a specific fuse you would pull before starting the car to tell it to clear its tables, but that's not happening due to cost. I'm actually surprised Subaru spends the money to put emergency FWD-mode fuses in their automatics, that's 3 crimp terminals, a fuse, and six feet of wire they could have not spent money on.
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Sep 24, 2016 17:26
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Well god drat, Honda just had to go and think of everything, didn't they?
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Sep 25, 2016 02:32
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the problem is, the IACV on most cars is just a bipolar 2 phase stepper motor running the idle pintle in and out on a leadscrew. It has no position sensor, no limit switches, nothing. So when the ECU wakes up from a coma it kinda has to learn to walk again, because it has no idea where the IACV is right now and no idea what this particular motor with this many miles on it and those plugs/wires/dirtyass throttle body/varnished fuel injectors require for a good idle. So it aims for the idle default position that worked when it left the factory, but only after realizing that the thing isn't where it expected it to be (the only way it can find full-closed position is by ramming the pintle into the throttle body orifice, which can take some time if it started really far back 'cause no one's cleaned the TB or manifold in 250k miles), and then it has to relearn and readjust.
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Sep 25, 2016 03:28
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They may have pulled the temp sensor to bleed the air out of the cooling system while filling. I know I've done that before, not sure if it will work well on a 4.7L.
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Oct 24, 2016 23:15
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Freeze the studs, heat the axle (no oil on it - into the oven it goes at 160 to 170 degrees! ), and use an appropriate size socket as a receiver while blasting them in with a BFH? that is how I always did them, the socket taking the load right around the stud hole in the flange keeps it from warping the flange. Don't hit the bearing journal with the hammer! On old shafts getting new studs, it also helps if you spin them while pulling slightly to feel when you have the splines lined up with the slight indents the old stud splines made... not that that does you any good.
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Jan 9, 2017 00:45
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I've heard reports that those manifolds split at the seams easily under boost but they should be fine NA of course.
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Feb 27, 2017 07:35
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It's an aluminum d44 right? I'd avoid it, you're likely to spin the tubes in a truck like that. I'll have to think about what axles would be a better choice. Maybe an f150 fx4 8.8? Iirc they're limited slip, wider than explorer axles, 5x5 or 5x5.5, and 31 spline, but double check all of that.
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Jul 16, 2018 14:52
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Jeep people are really superstitious about sensors but I've literally never had a problem with any sensor I've bought. I'm pretty sure they're superstitious for the same reason they recommend splooging every connector full of dielectric grease when 99% of them are great waterproof connectors these days anyways -reason being "well the guy with the cj5 that I learned Jeeps from said it was true". (Meanwhile, I've never bought a CJ oil gauge or sender that DID work, and every connector on those drat things is entirely open to the elements. Good grief.) Run whatever sensor you can get your hands on. There's a BWD CPS in one of mine, a duralast in another, and I had duralast and standard motor products in the other two right up until I sold or sawzalled them.
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Dec 26, 2018 23:59
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8ender posted:Sometimes I still default to my learning days technique of "pull an armful of sensors from the junkyard and dicker them down to $20 while they're really drunk on a Saturday just before closing, then stick them in until the explosion machine works again" Not a bad method. I'll use junkyard sensors in a pinch and I can't argue with the price. I actually had to buy an IAT sensor at the junkyard recently because I used my spare and they're no longer manufactured for RENIX Jeeps. At all.
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Dec 27, 2018 23:16
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I've actually never seen someone replace that seal unless doing a full rebuild, yeah. Unless it's really pouring out I'd just top it off regularly.
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Mar 3, 2019 14:48
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Those are not well done but they don't look like factory sloppy welds to me. My gut tells me someone else welded that thing on. Though it does appear to be a factory track bar mount forging.
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Oct 10, 2019 14:57
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Yeah, so that strap of plate in between the "feet" on the frame rail definitely isn't factory, and the welds, while they do look sloppy, don't look factory-sloppy. Factory-sloppy has a particular look, like the bead is consistent end to end except for the start and stop areas and it might not be exactly on the seam or have the same penetration, but at least the speed and wire feed and current are constant. That looks like someone did the welds after the fact from under the Jeep. I hate to say it but look for evidence of a frame section splice on the inboard side of that frame rail area, this thing might have been in an accident and that's the spot they chose to splice a new front frame section in at.
kastein fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Oct 10, 2019 |
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Oct 10, 2019 15:06
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Was that side to side movement on the crank journal or actual play in the rod bearing? Sometimes hard to tell. One doesn't matter, the other does. You can probably helicoil the pan holes if you really decide to care. As for the O2 harness... Lol. I'm pretty sure they did that so that it was obvious to the assembly techs if they were plugging poo poo in wrong, while still having the connectors mounted far away from the exhaust for heat reasons. They plug the one on the back of the engine in while it's got no tub on it, so they don't give a gently caress if it's a pain in the rear end to get to in 100k+ miles once the EPA emissions systems warranty is over.
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Dec 23, 2019 22:09
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I think the threads in the trans should be 7/16-14 (compare the others though) if you want to try just chasing it with a tap. Honestly 3 will probably hold it just fine. You saw the shops welding before giving them money, right? I don't trust anyone to weld on stuff I care about without seeing their work first... Scary number of shops out there hiring hacks.
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May 3, 2020 12:57
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Nice! Glad it went back together, one less thing to have to mess with.
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May 4, 2020 13:17
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You are going to want an aftermarket diff cover as well IMO. Those 8.8s are absolutely awesome axles, but the one thing I hate about them is the covers. The stock cover is so thin that I actually smooshed mine trying to break it free from the factory RTV with a deadblow years ago. If you back up into one rock on the trail you are going to be rubbing the ring gear on it or worse, leaking oil. So you may want to hold off on any significant tank/skidplate clearancing and modification until you have that, or at least know whether you'll want it. It's a plastic tank right? I've heard of people reforming those with a heatgun and then cutting and welding the skidplate to match the new contour of the tank for diff clearance.
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Jun 15, 2020 07:44
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I'm 99% sure that's not factory. Someone hosed it up and tried to bodge it back together. It looks like the factory evap barb (I don't think it actually has a valve in it, it's just a molded plastic fitting that gets plastic welded into the top of the blow molded tank) but someone with ten thumbs broke it off somehow and used the wrong kind of glue to put it back. ... I'm honestly not sure if there is a right kind of glue. It's probably an HDPE tank and that stuff is pretty hard to bond. kastein fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Jun 16, 2020 |
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Jun 16, 2020 08:02
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Yeah don't bother. Just keep your original as a spare, they come out pretty easy once you persuade the plastic locknut to turn for the first time in 20 years. The 97+ XJ, TJ, and I believe all (or at least all late) ZJ tanks are plastic with welded on evap fittings too. I'm guessing he's talking about the ones from 96- XJ and YJs that are plastic and clip into the metal tank with a rubber bushing.
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Jun 16, 2020 08:33
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I've actually never used thread locker on those, I just tighten the gently caress out of them That's some wack poo poo on the fuel tank barbs. Whoever has been working on your Jeep - between the fuel tank fuckery and the track bar mount - really should not have been.
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Jul 3, 2020 23:34
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Don't bother hacking the cluster for an engine swap, there are multiple people designing GM to Chrysler CCD and PCI bus adapters that you just buy, wire in between the two factory units, and forget about. Much cleaner than hacking up the cluster. The guy who wrote the lsdroid app is one of them. I implicitly trust any tech product he comes up with. Look up Pete Sonntag on Facebook, he's got a bunch of public posts about it.
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Jul 13, 2020 05:15
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Pretty much. There's also a guy who goes by Alexia on NAXJA designing a similar unit for CCD bus (used on XJs, ZJs, and I think early TJs?) but I think he's a bit more of an amateur. Still a cool product, just doesn't seem quite as polished as Pete's work. I would think pretty hard about bothering to design anything like that for any of my projects instead of just buying theirs. My Jeep is so old I'm doing essentially the same thing for driving old style gauges for resistive senders since they haven't built anything for that.
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Jul 13, 2020 15:15
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Try the poor man's prime instead of just letting it crank forever. If the issue goes away it's 100% that FPR. It's not a cheap filter, IIRC like 30 to 50 bucks, but it does fix the issue.
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Sep 4, 2020 03:26
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Yeah. Key on, wait for the pump to stop, key off, on, wait for it to stop again, repeat 2-4x and then try starting.
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Sep 4, 2020 03:53
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Yeah, I actually pulled the one out of my RENIX MJ a week or two ago to put an adapter on it and a second oil pressure sensor, since I've had fuel pressure issues in the past and wanted to be able to diagnose them roadside in the future. I noticed exactly the same thing when I unscrewed it. And now I can check my fuel pressure while driving by swapping one wire from the OPS to the FPS and watching the oil pressure gauge
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Sep 5, 2020 06:35
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I truly hate welded in bolts because they can snap off. Welded in nuts are slightly less evil.
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Sep 19, 2020 18:18
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Why not do the second return yourself? (Assuming it doesn't require extensive framing modification to clear the way to it.) I'm also curious if they installed a convenience outlet for service techs. I thought they were required by code but I don't see one there, at least from this angle. E: oh, it's only required within 25ft. Nevermind. (Article 210.63) kastein fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Sep 23, 2020 |
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Sep 23, 2020 05:55
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 14:25 |
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If you haven't ordered a timing set anywhere, I have a brand new one from Crown Automotive. That I've owned for no joke, 11 years and never put on a Jeep. I don't need it. Part number 53020444K-E. Includes guide, sprockets, front seal, cover gasket and chain. A little flash rust on the larger gears in very fingerprint like marks, probably from me picking the gear up and looking at it in 2009, I can brillo pad it off or you can. I wasn't really expecting to sell it but if you want, I can overnight it tomorrow for whatever price you think is fair that's under current retail value of like 58 bucks. Double check it'll fit first. I don't know what year 4.0s it matches but I ordered it for my 96 XJ.
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Nov 25, 2020 06:24
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