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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
I've found a lot of WJs with that exact same failure too. :(

The LEDs would probably be better off in the long run.

Do you know if the flasher relay is body controller operated or if its an actual flasher? if its a flasher you can get one of the electronic ones that play nice with LEDs.

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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Is your rad cap doing its job?
Measure the cooling delta going into and coming out of the radiator, that'll tell you if it's effectively cooling.
Heavier duty fan clutch? some don't fully engage till *loving warm*
Sometimes a bunch of debris can get caught between the condenser and radiator, make sure yours is clear.

kind of a fringe idea but given how dry Arizona is:
old school water sprayer to spray a mist on the radiator. wire it to a thermocouple to automate the switching process. It'll come in handy given that you're in Phoenix.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Yoo Nice trick for stripping the zinc off. Flux-core is indeed rear end. Its best for field repairs and the like. Get a bottle of gas and you'll be cookin.

Welding two different thicknesses like that of the nuts and the back plate is always a bit dicey and will lead to uneven heating, penetration, and warpage. preheating the thicker parts helps. Setting your dwell time to hold the puddle over the thicker parts longer than the thinner parts reduces warpage and gets more even heating into the respective parts. Clamping the hell out of it also works well.


(thanks again for the awesome aiss art)

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Janky Electrics Everywhere is Problematic

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