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InitialDave posted:Might help if you know exactly what models it's shared with LloydDobler posted:As far as I know I have to buy one from 98 to 2000 for S or V 70s and from C70s through 04, but that's a pool of like 4000 cars in the states.
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Sep 29, 2012 23:11
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Rear bumper and rear suspension/brakes are out of the car: And the last thing (which should have been the first thing) is I found the fuel pump wires.  It pumps about 1/2 gallon a minute, so it took a bit. Which is why I clamped the wires with welding clamps.  I just shined a light through the can to see when it was full, then poured it into my wagon. It's only 6 months old, we'll see if it makes it run like poo poo. I'm glad I pumped it though, I had about 13 gallons of premium in there. That's what, $52? Worth it. And with that I'm done stripping the car. Well, I'll pop the fuel pump out of it when the guy comes to haul it away. It's mounted in a giant hole in the top of the fuel tank, and I don't want the vapor from the last half pint in the tank venting into my garage, what with my natural gas water heater in there. My next post should be a photo or two of us loading this thing on to some kind of trailer or truck. Should be interesting trying it with no wheels. I don't think I can even put wheels on the rear at this point because the tires will bottom out. The bump stops are held in by the springs so it doesn't even have those. We'll see. In other news, I got the title yesterday. Last week I called the trucker again for an update and he was like "oh yeah, they mailed it back so it's right here!" Just sat and waited for me to call him. Anyway, that potential nightmare is over. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Oct 3, 2012 05:10
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I forgot, I had a pic of the brake pedals side by side from the tranny swap thread. It looks like they're identical except the auto pedal is wider. So I ought to be able to cut down the auto pedal to match.
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Oct 3, 2012 15:54
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The end of an era. Goodbye you magnificent beast. My friend who hauled it off brought two other guys and with some pipes as levers jammed into the frame rails we actually just lifted it up there, one end at a time. Once he had the back on, he winched it while we lifted the front end. It's a heavy beast. Still don't have the new car inside, too much mess. Time to figure out storage for what I'm not going to use, and organize what I am. 
LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Oct 5, 2012 04:48
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Is that your current ride up front in the last pic? 
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Oct 5, 2012 08:05
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I LIKE THE FLOWER STICKERS OKAY?
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Oct 5, 2012 16:32
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Found this brake pedal for ~25USD [url]http://www.fbt-parts.com/?index=default&link=item&searchmode=1&vc[]=204118100&vc1=204&vc2=118&pc[]=121101100&pc1=121&sortfield=vehiclemodelyear&sortorder=1&page=1&id=14836572&PHPSESSID=t7pqr49o6mv3td0flm5an10v24&lang=250[/url] Sorry for long url but the tags don't work on this one.
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Oct 5, 2012 16:54
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In general, I think manual-specific parts would be much easier to come by in Europe, so feel free to ask and I (and others) can check availability and pricing.
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Oct 5, 2012 17:06
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LloydDobler posted:I LIKE THE FLOWER STICKERS OKAY? That poo poo belongs in the HF thread. Needs more Glitter and "My Little Pony"
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Oct 5, 2012 17:29
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Pedal chat: I finally crawled into the new convertible and felt behind the pedal, the way the pad is welded on to the arm is exactly the same as the manual pedal. So all I have to do is trim the auto pedal pad down and slip the manual pedal rubber on it. Problem solved. Finally finished reorganizing my garage. I've been busy at work and suffering from zero motivation at home when I had the time. Like for the last two sundays I came home from dropping my daughter off at her mom's and just took a nap for the rest of the day. But not today! Started by removing a bunch of junk from the mezzanine and shoving the top, trunk lid, and fender up there. No it was not fun.  Then I stripped the rear delta links so I can rebuild them (or just use as is, they only have 63k on them) someday. Again, these are worth saving due to this extra one inch straight section, welded in behind the hub mount which makes them unique to the C70:  I removed about 4 shelves worth of poo poo and filled 4 trash cans as well as making a large pile of metal for my metal recycling friend. So then I took my newly cleared shelves and repopulated them with all the parts I was still saving. And I still have a little room left.  Here's the staging area for the parts going straight into the new convertible, as well as a few other parts I'm selling and some license plates from past cars that I forgot to take to recycle at the DMV:  Here's the workbench I just do not want to deal with right now:  But alas! It is finally in the garage! And I tested the top, it does work.  The tonneau and interior are really beat up on this car. Fortunately I have my nice interior.   typical careless damage from whoever replaced the top:  I saw evidence of the top being replaced, the rear defrost is disconnected and the bump stops for the tonneau cover are completely missing, like they removed them for the job and then forgot to put them back. I'm glad I saved the ones out of my car. I'd tear into this car, getting it up on jack stands and such tonight, but I can't because I completely blew out a shock in my V70, so it bounces down the road like Uncle Buck's thunderbird. I ordered a new set of shocks which will be delivered tomorrow, so that's the plan for tomorrow night, and I'll need to roll this car out to do it. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Oct 22, 2012 00:10
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This update is entitled "How to make a transmission more fun with $1250 worth of LSD" First strip the subframe and half shafts. My friend at the local Volvo shop told me he can get halfshafts fully rebuilt with a lifetime guarantee for something retarded like $160 a pair. I'm totally doing that, as I said earlier one of my boots is leaking, and they're still in great shape so I know I'll get good product back. They use silicone boots and all that. So theoretically this will be the last time I ever buy halfshafts.  Next, separate the transmission from the engine. This clutch only has 16k on it so I won't be messing with it or the rear main seal which was replaced with the clutch.  Step 1, knock this roll pin out. This works great when you have flat faced punches, last time me and my buddy did this we used screws and other idiotic things that swelled the end of the roll pin out and made it take half an hour to remove. I did it in 30 seconds.  Next, remove 17 bolts and lift the top half of the transmission case off.  Here's the inside of the top half of the tranny case. The only difficult thing about putting this back together is manually lining up the shifter cog over there in the lower left.  Next, jam a rag in the gear teeth and remove these bolts.  Put the bolts in solvent to get the oil off.  Remove the open diff. BE GONE YOU USELESS SPINNER.  Since I'm using new bearings which came with cups, I tried to knock out the old ones and it was surprisingly easy. Much easier than removing the cones from the diff, which is why I bought new bearings in the first place.  New diff with clean bolts and bearing cones already installed. I did this a few weeks ago at my office with heat. Take a torch and get them nice and warm, they drop right on.  Replaced the cup in the other half of the case as well. I just hung it off the edge of the bench to knock the old cup out.  Cleaned up with solvent to remove oil from the mounting surfaces and the threads.  Drop the new LSD in and torque to 55 ft-lb. The Quaife instructions said to use blue loctite even though the original diff did not. I'm not inclined to ignore instructions. Oh, I tried the rag trick again but it wasn't working well so I used my serp belt tool between bolt heads to hold the diff against torque while I locked it down. Kind of a pain in the butt.  Magnet! It has junk on it, probably from the first time the transmission was put together and broken in.  Much better now.  This is the point where I'd clean the mating surfaces, apply sealant and bolt it all back together. My plan was to take it to my friend's Volvo shop and use official Volvo sealant on it, but he says he's busy all week. So I'll research what to buy and where to buy it as soon as I'm done writing this post for you fine people.  So from start to finish (once I had the transmission off the engine) the LSD install took 1:15 with wasted time to take pictures. Totally worth it. Once I get it bolted back to the motor it's actually time to start tearing the new car apart. This might progress quickly from here on out. Oh, and I discovered that two of the motor mounts got torn in the wreck. Fortunately the trans mount which appears to be unique to the manual tranny didn't. I'm starting to get excited for this, because this tranny has the tall first gear. Which at first I didn't like, as it makes launching kind of a dog, and once boost kicked in I'd spin a tire. But my Wagon has the low ratio 1st gear, and when I launch it, it immediately spins a tire and once it hooks I'm at 5000 RPM and it's time to shift. With the LSD this should be an interesting car to launch. No more caving in to Toyota Corollas at rush hour freeway lights. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:50 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Oct 30, 2012 05:44
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I don't get FWD transmissions and differentials. Pretty pictures, though 
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Oct 30, 2012 17:29
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What's not to get? I posted pictures! Isn't it obvious? Hehe. I had a week disappear due to a trade show, and it's been very cold here but this weekend was beautiful with mid 60's today so I finally got around to doing some more work. I started by bolting on the good rear bumper, because it was in the way and I was starting to worry about scratching it due to working around it. The color seems to match alright, I'll know better after the car is cleaned and buffed.  The gaps aren't quite perfect but pretty good, and just as good as before. It's a colossal pain in the rear end to adjust this side one to be straighter as you have to remove the whole bumper again to get to the adjusting bolts, then re-install it all over and hope you got it right. I'll live with it for now.  Next I installed new shaft seals and bolted the transmission back on to the motor. A few weeks ago I was able to take it in to my friend's shop and seal it up. I also drained the power steering and removed the rack and hoses, as they were getting in the way. So this motor is now ready to drop in to the new car.  Last, I had the halfshafts rebuilt, and they painted the entire shafts including all these surfaces which run in oil and on the oil seals. So I hit them with steel wool to get the paint off. I don't really want a bunch of paint mixed in with my tranny oil, even though it likely wouldn't hurt anything.  That's about all I did on the convertible, I spent an hour or two changing my cabin air filter and cabin fan on my wagon, it appears that it was original as it was absolutely filthy and packed with crap. The fan was howling pretty bad in cold weather so it needed a change anyway. It appears to flow a hell of a lot more air now, which is great because I've had ventilation problems with that car since I got it, mostly just related to getting hot and feeling like there isn't enough air flow. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Nov 19, 2012 00:48
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This took me an hour last night: I really wanted to get more done but I also have the gaps on this lined up better than either my old 04 or this one had them from the factory. So there's that. My goal for the rest of the week is to get this interior completely out so I can run my subwoofer wiring. Also, since the driver's seatbelt from my other car has the pretensioner blown, I was gonna try and see if the "silver" belts look cool against the black interior. But after looking at the driver's seatbelt in the car tonight, I decided to change them all. It's absolutely filthy and starting to fray. The driver's is the hardest one for me because I have to unreel it and change the webbing, but since that's the only one I WANT changed, the rest are easy. But here is the color difference for reference.  So I had to break the dead pedal in my 04 to figure out how to remove it without breaking it. You jam a screwdriver under that bending tab in the middle and pry up, then slide the dead pedal down. I'm sure new ones are cheap though and the part number is right there. It has to come out to get the carpet out.  And that's how far I got tonight. Next steps are to finish removing the dash and windshield trim so I can do the pedal swap, shifter swap, and run the subwoofer wiring. Then the new dash goes in and the interior from there back. Oh, and I forgot I need to do the rear shocks before I put the rear seat back in as well. 
LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Nov 21, 2012 05:53
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Nice work Lloyd, the Quaife diff really is a nice unit. Combine it with a RaceLogic traction control and you have a fwd car that you can just punch the gas on out of the corners with no understeer or wheelspin. It's a really weird feeling. Haha, "NEJ" means NO in swedish.
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Nov 21, 2012 15:18
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Cool, the factory traction control sucks, so it's nice to know there's an option if I find I still need it. Good to know about the plate, now I can placate my excessively christian family. Hehe. So tonight I spent running stereo wiring and swapping seatbelts. Check it, Volvo gives you a tube to pass wires through the firewall, with a rubber cap on the end. 4GA power wire is a bit large but shove hard enough and it goes in (the rubber cap comes off the end of the tube for best shoving results).  Here's a wider shot showing where it is exactly.  It pops out of the firewall behind that white plastic bracket, it's dark in this photo but the cable is in the bottom of the picture.  And while I had the seatbelt out, I routed the cable behind all the sound deadening styrofoam and into the trunk. Here it is all buttoned up with the new dark seatbelt in the front. I also ran RCA cables and a remote turn-on wire down the other side of the car into the trunk.  Seatbelts swapped in the rear, with the top cover and ROPS covers installed. They look light in this picture but that's a combination of reflection and sun bleaching on this section of the belts.  Here's something I've wanted to do for a long time, and for once I remembered while the speakers were exposed. I put dynamat inside the rear speaker chambers, as much as I could. I've found the rear speakers to have a real hollow sound, with too much midrange, and without the factory equalizer to balance it out, it needs help. I'll report back if this did the trick.  So next is to change the rear shocks, because the upper bolts are there behind the rear seat. Once that's done there will be nothing keeping me from putting the entire back half of the interior in, which will be really nice to get out of my living room. Then I want to swap the dash and do the shifter and pedals while it and the front seats are out. Moving right along! LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Nov 22, 2012 08:21
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Too cold to have the garage door open for the shocks, so I proceeded to remove the dash. Way easier to get the shifter passthrough off the firewall with the carpet and dash out.  You can actually see the pivot bolt for the pedals.  So I got the auto brake pedal out, and it's exactly the same as the manual brake pedal except for the pad.  Cut the big one to match the little one and it should all be good.  The auto pad is much thicker, I'll grind it down if I have problems installing the rubber.  So I was having tons of trouble removing the shifter cable, when I remembered it being a piece of cake. Then I noticed that this car has the dolby decoder module down here which none of the other cars I've worked on had.  Ah, much easier with that out of the way.  I hate this. The remains of multiple coke spillings. This thing is filthy, good thing it comes out because I can wash it in my sink.  Oh, what's this with coke spilled all over its cover?  It's only the computer that controls things that blow up in your face.  Jesus christ. At least it has a cover, so it doesn't appear to be ruined, but I definitely forgot to remove the unit from my other car in case I need a spare. Decent progress, tomorrow at work I'll saw and grind down the brake pedal and then at night install it with the clutch pedal, and maybe start putting the dark dash back in. It's been sitting on my dining room table since september. Edit: My dining room and part of the living room:  Yeah, I'm a bachelor, which has pros and cons. Looking forward to cleaning this up. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:32 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Nov 27, 2012 08:25
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That is quite the Volvo pile you have going. My father-in-law pulled the transmission from his 2GR-swapped MR2 to install a TRD LSD, but decided to go with a full rebuild as well. The third gear synchro was toast and the rest were getting kinda crunchy even with the best Redline fluid. Messing with the innards of a transmission just looks like a rabbit hole I have no business going down.
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Nov 27, 2012 14:35
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On my '97 Subaru they have that stupid little pull-out cupholder above the stereo. In the centre console, top to bottom: CD player, radio, cig lighter, airbag control module. Everything is soaked with spilled coffee and soda, and the CD player is nonfunctional (as far as I can tell.. I no longer own music CDs or any device capable of burning one). Good thing the airbag control unit is watertight, huh?
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Nov 27, 2012 23:05
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Totally. Although that's the other nice thing about spilled dried Coke, it cleans up really easily. At least good enough for parts that are invisible most of the time: Saw, saw, grind, grind:  The rubber cover fits:  Doesn't look weird or anything, even though it is slightly domed compared to the normal manual pedal. Still, now I have a known undamaged pedal. I don't even think I'll worry about painting it, as the odds of it seeing water are nil.  Pedals installed.  Cha-ching! You always find change when you get down to carpet level.  So at this point I tried to jam the shifter through the firewall and after about half an hour of tearing my arms up I remembered why I wanted to wait till the motor was out. It's a bitch. I can still install it fairly easily with the carpet and dash in, it just means the console goes in last. I can live with that. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Nov 28, 2012 06:44
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When I was running power wires to the trunk in my S70, I spent like 20 minutes trying to figure out how to remove that goddamn dead pedal without breaking it before just giving up and prying the carpet up around it. I could not find this answer anywhere on google. So thank you LloydDobler for breaking yours so I don't have to next time. If you have a website or some other way you can get this searchable with keywords (maybe submit to matthews volvo site or something that google indexes), I'm sure it would save someone some frustration in the future.
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Nov 28, 2012 11:08
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Hey, you're welcome. I probably should. It's funny, usually when something doesn't obviously have attachment means on these cars, it just means you pry on it real hard, which is what I did. It's one of the only non-intuitive pieces on the car. So I had another really productive week. Wednesday night I didn't even get home until 8:30, but I was really motivated so I went out and tossed the dash into the car.  One thing I do love is that my porch is completely hidden from the street, so I can pile poo poo up out here and nobody bothers me about it. I do have an HOA after all.  So then Friday night I put my daughter to bed on time for a change and went out to play some more, installed the airbag in the dash and screwed down the dash cap, installed the steering wheel, turn signal and wiper stalks, and heater control.  Yesterday I picked up all my maintenance items that I've been putting off buying, like a new timing belt and air filter, and tranny oil. Then today I had the whole day where working on this car was my only priority. I put in a solid 8 hours with no breaks. Felt pretty good. Started with a new cabin filter, even though it really isn't used that much on this car. It's better than letting a bunch of dirt and dust get all built up inside the dash.  I vacuumed up all the leaves and junk in the cowl, then put the cowl cover on. After that I moved in to the interior. I vacuumed out below the carpet, because who needs dirt under your carpet? Then I dropped the carpet in and fastened it down with duct pieces and trim.  Immediately after taking that picture I realized I forgot the dead pedal, so I washed and installed it. Then I did the rear suspension, and just for grins I put my R wheels on it for the first time. Starting to really feel like my car again. I also cleaned and installed the mud flaps.  Once I had the upper shock bolts in place, there was nothing stopping me from putting the back seat in.  Shortly after that the front seats went in. This is an annoying job, you have to motor the seat forward and back several times to get to the bolts and trim pieces.  Then since I now had somewhere to sit, I installed the A pillar and header trim.  I wasn't going to do the door panels, but I still had some energy and got a wild hair about trying to figure out how the handles come off. I figured it out this time, when I was stumped last time. You pry off a hook and the cable end slides right out of the handle.  This allowed me to change the color of the piece behind the handle, so I decided it was time to do the panels in their entirety.  Now it's REALLY starting to feel like my car again. A lot of this is "wash and assemble" which makes it take longer to reassemble but that's fine, it's clean in places that aren't usually clean on a car once it leaves the dealer. Then I turned the key and made sure all the stuff works, like mirrors and trunk popper and heater control, etc. It does. Success! I could have done the stereo today but I need to modify the glove box to run a cable for my phatnoise unit, so I decided that would happen later. The console goes in after I get the shifter in as well, which will happen when I get the motor out. So next stop, motor teardown! I borrowed an ECU removal tool to measure up so I can make my own, because I already needed it once, and I figure this won't be the last time I remove an ECU. I'm very tired. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Dec 3, 2012 06:21
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Great progress. I'm really bummed about what happened to old C70, but I am excited to get to follow this thread. On days when I log in and see a new post here, I am always excited to read it. Good work. You busted rear end this week and it shows.
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Dec 3, 2012 06:36
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Man that is a ton of progress. A little disheartened to hear that Volvo uses the cable-on-hook door handle linkage as opposed to the nicer solid pipe linkages that 80s and early 90s Audis used. How is ECU removal so specialized that it needs a unique tool?
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Dec 3, 2012 18:29
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Seat Safety Switch posted:How is ECU removal so specialized that it needs a unique tool? Security fasteners, don't know how Volvo does it on their late model vehicles. I'm so excited to see this thing come together.
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Dec 3, 2012 20:42
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Security fasteners
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Dec 3, 2012 20:44
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They probably did it to save money, the ECU fits down in a box with a slide connector at the bottom to lock it in. On the older cars they had the handle built in to the ecu that you could just flip and it would un-dock. On the new ones the handle was turned into a tool. I actually was able to get my ECU and TCU out of the 04 without it, but it sucked. I basically slipped a small screwdriver into the slot and pushed on the slider. Basically looks like this: 
LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Dec 3, 2012 |
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Dec 3, 2012 20:46
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Man that is a ton of progress. A little disheartened to hear that Volvo uses the cable-on-hook door handle linkage as opposed to the nicer solid pipe linkages that 80s and early 90s Audis used. The 240 used a solid rod for the door linkage and let me tell you what, there's nothing nice about it.
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Dec 3, 2012 20:59
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Interesting thread, I've seen some of these C70's around but never really looked into them. I expect they would be well built as they are Volvo's but are the numbers for these C70's really that impressive? Did you ever get into modifying the turbo components of the original car? Was any dyno done?
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Dec 3, 2012 21:18
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I dunno about impressive, but yeah, I tuned it when I did the original manual swap, and dynod it before and after. If you have archives, the thread is here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2967196&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1 And the relevant graph after everything was said and done:  Fair numbers for wheel power and torque, car is rated 242/243 at the crank stock. I saw a 60 ft-lb torque gain on 100% stock drivetrain just by adding a custom tune for boost and fuel/timing maps. The difference was quite noticeable, and it was faster than a stock S60R at the drag strip. I expect this to have more due to a 3" intake and 3" downpipe. It's not going to go out and kill subies at every traffic light or anything, but it's nothing to sneeze at. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Dec 3, 2012 |
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Dec 3, 2012 22:06
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I forgot to mention in my last post that I also swapped side mirrors due to heavy scratches on both of the 03 housings, and I realigned the passenger door. It's had some work done to it at some point, as the hinge bolts had all the paint knocked off of them and the rubber wiring boot isn't attached right. I had to add about 1/8" worth of shims to the bottom hinge to get the door to close straight, but it is perfect now. Also the front of the door was rubbing on the fender, so that's solved as well. So tonight I cleaned out the garage from all the work I did on Sunday, picked up tools, put junk parts on my porch, boxed up the things I'm keeping, etc. Then I decided to go ahead and do the timing belt. First I drop the engine on to a dolly so I can maneuver it.  This opening is here in the block so you can remove the automatic torque converter bolts. I use this trick to lock the crank while undoing crank pulley nuts.  New parts lined up against old. The old ones were in great condition, as they should be with only 63k miles on them. But I decided to do this now, because it's only an hour of work with easy access and the coolant already drained vs 3-4 hours when the engine is in the car.  Muuuuuuuch easier.  I decided to remove the lower timing cover to make cleaning the water pump mounting surface easier.  This was a nightmare with the engine in the car. The frame rail passes right in front of this, so it's almost impossible to accurately torque these bolts. Out of the car? Cake.  All buttoned up with tensioner dialed in, cranked around a couple times to make sure the pulleys are timed right:  And done. I didn't think the engine would have any coolant left in it, but it did. Kitty litter to the rescue.  I also decided to learn from my dashboard experience and check the part numbers on the wiring harnesses, since there are big white labels with the number right on them. This harness and the one in the car are identical. So I can leave all this wiring hooked up and just swap direct. I'm very glad about that. Next up: Beginning teardown of the 03 engine bay! LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:34 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Dec 5, 2012 08:14
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There's always some coolant / oil / whatever hidden somewhere.
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Dec 5, 2012 08:41
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Looking good. My friend has an '04 (?) 5spd coupe and it's a pretty nice car. He has porsche brakes front and rear and has done some trackdays with it. I would have thought more than 180/190 stock, it seems to pull pretty well well (though I am used to slow cars). His is falling into a state of disrepair it seems, though 
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Dec 5, 2012 15:12
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This ^X ^V job is absolutely fascinating. Thanks for documenting it. Been checking in daily to see how the spiritual resurrection has been going.
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Dec 5, 2012 21:19
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dreesemonkey posted:Looking good. My friend has an '04 (?) 5spd coupe and it's a pretty nice car. He has porsche brakes front and rear and has done some trackdays with it. I would have thought more than 180/190 stock, it seems to pull pretty well well (though I am used to slow cars). If he's got a big brake kit you can guarantee he's already flashed the engine for closer to 300 ft-lb at the wheels. You literally don't have to do anything except pay the money and your engine instantly makes 20% more torque. Minor update time for me. Denver had its first cold snap of the year, it was 11 degrees Monday morning. Sunday was a high of 20, but I had my daughter an extra day so I wasn't gonna work on my car anyway. But, I called -link to lovely tuner redacted- and talked about my plans for this car, and decided it's time for the tune. So it's time for the ECU tool. I extricated my ECU socket from the wiring harness of my 04. It was harder than it looked. Then I decided to use the TCU as a test mule, since I hope to never use it again.  The side pins on the tool engage the yellow plastic cradle while the end slots engage those tabs on the pink sliders.  So then I built one. I guessed that those 3 side pins were only there to keep it from coming out, but pushing on it does the same thing so I decided to skip those. Then I used cap screws for the pivot pins, shortened to the thickness of the aluminum. This is technically what engineers would call "marginal" but it's a tool that will be used no more than 20-30 times in its life, so if they last that long I'm okay with it.  Let's try it out! Again on the TCU so if I screw something up it's not something I care about.  It works! Although aluminum was a bad choice, you have to push really hard when all the wires are in there. It flexed and bowed but in the end it works.  I need both of these out if I'm going to keep the wiring harness on the motor. The ECU goes in the mail to the tuner.  And I decided to dig in and get the plugs extracted from the socket on the car. Now the harness is disconnected and I can pull the motor without stripping wires from each sensor.  And just for reference, Volvo used to have the removal tool as part of the ECU which was nice. It's irritating that they went away from this. Building the tool took me an hour, so that's money well saved ($78 dealer wholesale for the tool).  The last good news I have is that Lucky also confirmed that I can use the '98 ECU as a standalone unit as long as I wire up the right wires, which is what I wanted to do for my 122 project, as I really don't have the patience for learning to tune homebrew engine control like megasquirt. So as soon as I have this car done it'll be time to get back on the 122. Weather looks not too cold for this weekend, so I'm thinking motor swap. Of course, I'll keep you posted. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 09:43 on Jan 12, 2015 |
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Dec 13, 2012 06:45
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I'm interested in hearing how the ARD tune works out for you-I've heard good things about them on VS and other places, and I think I'll be ready for a little more pep from my XC by the time the spring rolls around and I get all the deferred maintenance knocked out. My local Volvo buddies/enablers have been hounding me to manual-swap it, too, so seeing your car apart like this has been instructional. Can't wait to see it all back together!
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Dec 13, 2012 08:18
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LloydDobler posted:If he's got a big brake kit you can guarantee he's already flashed the engine for closer to 300 ft-lb at the wheels. You literally don't have to do anything except pay the money and your engine instantly makes 20% more torque. Actually he doesn't. He thought about buying a tuner a while back, I thought for sure he would since he loves spending money (despite not having it), but he wanted to learn the car first on stock power when he was doing trackdays, which is surprisingly smart of him. I don't think he has anything power wise done, it's all suspension and braking. His thing right now is motorcycles though so he's been neglecting the C70. Anyway, nice job making the tool! That's pretty slick
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Dec 13, 2012 14:27
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That surprises me that your friend did the brakes first. Cool though. I will say a tune is the best thing ever for these cars, as peppy as they feel stock, it's amazing how much potential they really have. Well sheeeeeeeeit. It's been a month of holidays and lazy drunk weekends and drat cold weather. Sucked all the motivation right out of me. I ordered and received a Snabb intake, which is extremely highly regarded around the volvo tuners. This isn't an airbox or filter tube, it's the tube between the MAF and the turbo inlet, which on the factory tube necks down to a tiny 1.5" before going in to the turbo, supposedly to reduce noise. This tube opens up to 3" all the way down and then reduces to the turbo inlet size with a coupling. They say it really increases spool up and throttle response, and is the best bang for your buck after a tune and downpipe.  Also got my ECU back with the green sticker of tune on it!  So I started tearing in to the car in prep for removing the engine. I was debating removing the radiator, until the radiator made the choice made for me.  So I decided it'd be easier to work on the car with the bumper off and also reduce my likelihood of scratching the bumper. As I cranked the bolts out I was greeted with this! One of the bolt holes in the bumper filled up with water. I'll have to figure out a drain for it when I put it back together.  So as I tore things down I was greeted with more evidence of front end repaint, there was silver overspray on one of the headlight wiper hoses. When I got the bumper off, it had this sticker inside indicating it was molded in 08 so it's been replaced some time after that.  The bumper core however is original, with a date code of 2002.  Next I could see overspray on the inside plastic pieces of the bumper.  On the other hand, the AC condenser is original with a date code of 2002:  I tore it down this far...  Basically to get at this one ground point and to be able to pull this harness out of the car. I could probably have accomplished it by just removing the headlight, but it's really not that hard to pull the entire front core support off.  So now the radiator is out. Also date coded 2002. Original radiator in a 10 year old Volvo, absolutely amazing. Also explains why the upper hose mount just snapped off in my hand.  I pulled the intake tube down off the throttle body. That's... not oil, it's water. ewwww!  Ground cable has seen better days, I'll use the one from the 04.  So here's where I left it after a couple hours of nice easy labor.  This is something I've never done before, I'm going to try to keep the AC system sealed during the swap. It is still holding pressure so I'd rather not waste the refrigerant if I can avoid it.  Now I have very easy access to the underside of the ECU socket, where I have to add one wire for the cruise control, and jumper two of the wires on the TCU side which will allow me to remove the TCU as well. I just have to ask Lucky which two wires.  I might actually get the engine dropped tomorrow, if I'm not too sore and/or tired. But progress has been made! Now to decide whether or not to drop $450 on an all-aluminum radiator, or just buy another OEM unit for around half that. Hmmmmm. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Jan 23, 2013 06:50
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I'm really excited with all your progress on the car. The interior swap really did quite an amazing transformation on its own, great job. Lucky (Rob) is an amazing guy to work with, when I was in the Volvo community I would be harassing him all too often since he is essentially a neighbor. I'm also ecstatic that ARD is taking off and getting the good reviews it deserves. Looking forward to you posting a dynograph with the new ECU, once things are all said and done.
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Jan 23, 2013 08:02
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LloydDobler posted:
What's the Oregon blue plate from?
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Jan 23, 2013 09:06
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