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Edit: whoops, sold a decade later Looking to sell my car tow dolly. I have towed jeeps with it no problem, Billy Tully hauled a TDI with it, etc. It'll handle any normal sized car, mini truck, or SUV. Comes with straps to tie the tires down, has one tire that was replaced ~2400mi ago in summer 2010 and the other ~1500mi ago in March. Could use new wheel bearings soon, they're around $10-20 a side at tractorsupply co IIRC. All lights work, safety chains in good shape, 2" ball hitch, etc. Goon price $400, I bought it for $400 this spring and have put at least $150 into bringing it up to snuff maintenance wise. Located in Southbridge MA, can bring it an hour or so in any direction if needed. Previous registration and bill of sale will be provided, which is enough to transfer it into your name in any reasonable state, mass didn't even give me a title when I transferred it to my registration. I just don't have a use for it anymore, have nothing to tow it with and no reason to tow anything with it, and could use the cash more than a trailer sitting in my yard. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Nov 24, 2012 05:18
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I prefer the yards that have no idea because they don't have a computerized inventory system... it means they are mostly in the scrap business, and are usually "you-pull." Their prices are typically much better than the computerized yards that know exactly what they have and list it on car-part.com. That being said I did just get a driveshaft from a yard on car-part.com, been looking for it for 3 months now at the local "lord of the flies" type junkyards, ran out of patience and decided paying $50 for it was worth having it in my hands by this weekend instead of waiting another few months to get one for $30 instead.
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Mar 13, 2014 00:47
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c355n4 posted:https://www.facebook.com/entropy.racing/posts/797702046906880 I know nothing about e36s. Can you tell me an exact model/year listing? I am going to the pull a part at least a few more times before the race.
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Jun 7, 2014 15:26
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Edit: gone 98-02 forester rear right door interior skin, tan leather. Decent condition, came with a door I got for my cloth interior car so I swapped mine on. FREE. Come pick it up in southbridge, haverhill, or woburn mass depending on what time of day/what day we are talking about. We can also arrange a weekend or Friday evening hostage exchange at Fart Pipe or Slow is Fast's places if you know them and I am in the area. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Jan 3, 2015 21:19
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edit: gone Chevy parts for sale... get them the hell out of here. 1993 6.5L turbodiesel manual 4x4 K3500 transfer case and front driveshaft, specifically. It's a borg warner 4401. I will do $100 for the pair, picked up, goon price. I have them listed on CL for significantly more to filter out the lowballers and idiots I don't want to deal with. 32 spline input shaft, slip yoke rear output that seals on the slip yoke, flange style driver side front output. Big, heavy, greasy as gently caress. I will ship and have a commercial dock I can do so from (will strap to a pallet/into a crate) but have no idea how to arrange shipping for LTL stuff. If you want it shipped, you arrange the shipping or it won't happen, because I get annoyed easily by freight shipping stuff. It weighs like 120-150lbs, would be on a 2x2 skid about 1 foot tall, and the zip for estimation purposes is 01801. Can also drop off in or around the interstates between 01550, 01801, 01835, 01609, and 01749. Occasional side trips to southern NH, parts of ME, CT, and RI also available. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Feb 22, 2015 23:46
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Tommychu posted:Just remembered that my automotive ADD landed me with some weird rubber I've still yet to get rid of. It's a set of 4 195/45R15 Kumho Ecsta SPT/KU31, mounted on 4x100 Escort GT 5 spoke wheels (the finish is chipped in a couple spots but they don't look bad at all until you get really close). Never actually used them, but they've been sitting since 2012. $300 for the whole set. Able to dismount them as well, but I'd really rather not since they were an absolute bitch to mount. drat, those are a perfect diameter for my new ride and the bolt pattern is even right. Too bad you are a country and several thousand miles away. 
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Mar 28, 2015 20:39
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Dammit! Yeah, I didn't even think of centerbore. Everyone who has offered wheels, including Tommychu, has ones with a centerbore at least a few mm too small. Thanks guys but I clearly need to think this through a bit more before I do anything. Not used to it mattering, everything else I own is either a very standard pattern or using aftermarket wheels with a huge centerbore and lug centric pattern...
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Apr 5, 2015 18:37
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As a buyer, I really like titles that the seller just signs and hands over. I've had too many people gently caress up paperwork by being idiots and filling in poo poo like they know what they're doing, just gimme the drat thing and I'll fill the rest out very carefully. Hell, my dad accidentally checked the odo rollover box on the van I got from him and it resulted in a giant snarl of bureaucracy and stupidity (but I repeat myself) at the RMV. He meant to check the "I certify that this odometer reading is true and accurate" box and got exactly the wrong one  As a seller... yeah that poo poo is getting signed and filled out before I give it to you. Unless it is a parts car, then I literally do not care what happens so long as I get a signed title or hand over a signed/dated title with PARTS ONLY written on it. You could draw stick figures and dinosaurs on the drat thing, I don't care, the scrapyard doesn't even want the title unless the shell shows up there whole... which it never does because it won't fit in my truck that way.
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Jan 15, 2016 01:02
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As a family member of someone who has an absolutely gutless 3.0 V6 Ranger and had a 4.0 SOHC V6 Explorer, a 4.0 SOHC Ranger will tow some small stuff like you want but for all that is good in this world please get the timing chains dealt with BEFORE they blow up, not after. My dad got as far as pulling the engine out of the Explorer to do the timing chains (no shop wanted anything to do with doing them... all his usual shops gave him the "please, please take this SOMEWHERE ELSE" high quotes, or straight up refused to quote) and scrapped it after realizing he was in way over his head. It's a terrible bass ackwards design that Ford came up with so that they could use the same head casting on both sides to save money, to the detriment of literally everything else - packaging, complexity, part count, serviceability, you name it. Sure was an alright engine for towing their camping trailer up till then though. I drove it a few times and it didn't feel gutless or anything.
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Mar 24, 2016 18:21
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Edit: gone So I have a 1980 Datsun 720 pickup, 5 speed manual, RWD sitting here. I bought it from my brother intending to trade it to another friend for my next project, but he is looking for a rust free datsun 720. I remembered this one being rust free but some rust I didn't realize was growing has come through now, last time I saw it was in 2014 sometime... gently caress. Needs the door lower edges, one spot I saw on a floorboard, and some other minor areas (around the rear taillights) Assuming my friend doesn't want it in this condition (it's still pretty drat solid for our area, but not the nearly pristine rust free truck I told him about) I'm willing to sell it to any AI goon who will restore it and/or treat it nicely for $1000 asking price. If you are going to beat it up or demo derby it, I'm not selling. Located in central Mass. I won't have the paperwork till my brother comes by in a week or two, but it will come with a clean AZ title, previous registration, and bill of sale. Will add pictures soon. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Jun 25, 2016 17:30
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poo poo I barely ever check my snapchat these days. It's kinda a haul from you IIRC but your family is easily automotively unhinged enough to make it happen. The frame looks solid as hell. I've posted some of the repairs and maintenance I've done on it for him in my thread over the last 4-5 years or so. Here's the stuff I know it needs - - it needs some new exhaust pipes, the ones on there now are pretty rotten. Haven't checked if rockauto can get them. If something's not listed under 1980 datsun 720, try 1980 nissan 720, they're 99% the same and I can't even remember if I've ever bought something for it from the 1980 datsun 720 entry. - the bottom edges of both door skins are crusty and one's got a hole in it now. Last time I saw it they were only rust stained, so that was a shock. - the floor pan is definitely in need of replacement over the cab mount on the driver side in the footwell. Not too surprising, but disappointing. - the rockers look pretty solid but have rust staining on the paint, so I'm a little worried they may be rotted inside or something. - the driver front fender suffered in an accident in Indiana a few years ago when some idiot pulled out in front of him. It's not horrible damage, but it certainly isn't beautiful. - mechanical work it needs: - new battery or battery charged back up (I can do the latter, but not looking to do the former); it was fine till it sat for around 2 years due to him buying a new car. - new clutch slave cylinder. The part is like 30 bucks IIRC, and it's external slave. He never got around to sending me a pic of it (there are literally 3 different looking ones listed on rockauto and autozone for this model/year/engine/trans) but now it's in my driveway so I can handle this before someone buys it. - could use the cooling system flushed I'm sure. I may do this if I get bored. - needs front shocks, they're included under the drivers seat brand new and if I get bored I may install them. - needs upper left balljoint replaced again within a year or two. I did all the balljoints for him in 2014 and my lovely pile of garbage grease gun ripped the zerk and threads out of this one. It's fine till it gets nasty in there then needs replacing. As with the others I may get bored and install it, since I bought a new one on RA for the princely sum of $7 and have it sitting on the shelf. My GF says if we end up completely stuck with the thing and we can persuade it to pass safety inspection (shouldn't be too difficult) she'll use it as a winter beater, but since it's RWD, we live in the woods, and I can find far better winter beaters that wouldn't make me sad watching them rust, I'd rather have it go to someone who will give it a better life. Stuff already done, by me or a good mechanic - - mechanical fuel pump several years ago - alternator I believe is a few years old - front brakes a few years ago - battery cables are my work, custom crimped to length from neoprene insulated welding cable - carb cleaned, rebuilt, and repaired in 2014 by me and Fart Pipe - vacuum system rebuilt with new lines as required at the same time, since it wouldn't run for poo poo with the dry rotted mess that was on there Aside from the listed mechanical problems I wouldn't hesitate to drive it to California this weekend*. He bought it in AZ, drove it to Mass, then drove it to Missouri, Utah, Washington, Oregon, Missouri again, Utah again, Mass again, Kentucky, and Mass again over the last few years, the only issues he had were the fuel pump and alternator in Indiana, the fan belt flew off in Kentucky and I got a call from the breakdown lane about how to put it back on, the carb in Mass (so I fixed it), and the clutch slave cylinder. Was busy with family visiting over the weekend, but I should be getting home at a reasonable time tonight and can hopefully take some pics of the problem areas. * I did drive that 230k mile Justy home from Colorado with Fart Pipe though so my judgement may not be the best. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Jun 27, 2016 20:05
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kastein posted:Datsun words Alright, I have pictures now, only a few months later!                                Price is $1k, negotiable. I still haven't done a drat thing to it other than buy parts for it. Brother found the last registration, still looking for the title. Being a 1980 I think that means it should be registrable in ME, NH, VT, RI, CT, and maybe even MA but not sure. He's looking for the title. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Nov 8, 2016 00:16
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Edit: gone Location: central mass Price: 200 dollars or trade for other crap I don't need What's for sale: a ceiling hung natural gas fired 200k btu (160k output) air heater. Ideal for shop use. Weighs around 350lbs, moves 2400cfm at 62deg temp rise. 8in metal flue outlet. 1/2npt gas inlet. Four hanging brackets. Needs a 120V 15A hookup for the blower and controls, and a normal 24vac two or three wire thermostat. It is a dayton 3e390b and grainger (first Google result) has more info and a pic. It is in the back of my truck and I don't want it there. Who wants it? Free delivery within the range of my commute (anywhere between Southbridge and Woburn nearish an interstate) if you have a chainfall or engine crane I can back under, otherwise come to Southbridge and back under mine and I'll drop it on your truck/trailer. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Feb 12, 2017 15:11
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Still got this heater for sale. Also I now have a 2000 GM/Chevy C/K TRUCK (not yukon, escalade, tahoe, et al) full factory service manual set for sale. Goon price $170, cheaper if you pick it up, trades welcome. This manual covers TRUCKS - not SUVs. It looks exactly like the SUV FSM from the outside except it doesn't have model names listed on the front cover and it is part number GMT/00-CK instead of GMT/00-CK8. Remember that GM continued the trucks on the previous generation design for a year or two while moving the SUVs all to the new platform. It covers the 5.0L, 5.7L, and 7.4L V8 gas engines and 6.5L turbodiesel, as well as all the other stuff on those vehicles. I also have the CNG supplement volume. It's in great shape, I was happy with it until I opened the cover and got a horrible sinking feeling when I realized the 5.3L and 6.0L were not covered, then remembered someone mentioning the different year splits. The CK8 manuals (which I have now purchased) will be for sale too for what I paid for them ($250) as soon as I'm done with my LM7 swap. e: everything pictured here except for the bed. coat, and the vortec motor lifting brackets is included. I can put the manuals in the box upside down as pictured or turn them around, your choice. 
kastein fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Mar 1, 2017 |
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Mar 1, 2017 19:20
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Edit: gone Maybe. I am afraid I would lose them in 5 seconds flat. Also, I have a 1979 Yamaha xs650 for sale, clean title. I took it in trade for the datsun and don't want it either, it was just worth about the same amount and takes less space. 1k OBO, if you get here in the next two weeks or so so I don't have to think about dragging it to my hangar, I'll definitely take significantly less. It needs the front brake worked on IIRC, a stator (it runs and drives but the battery doesn't charge), wiring repairs, and a seat recover if you're picky. I can't keep it because I'm not sane enough for biking, I would die or get arrested within 2 months. Edit: gingerbread house man if you read this I will totally trade it for any *working* 30+in 2 stage snowblower less than 3 decades old. I'm not looking forward to fixing the two 40 year old ones I already have... Again. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Nov 14, 2017 00:51
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Gone
kastein fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Mar 15, 2018 01:33
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builds character posted:Dangerously close to NY. Think he'll take a nice bottle of scotch and some flowers? Southbridge Mass. Conveniently close to both 84 and 90... No bottle of Scotch and flowers, but I'd take 600 to make this thing go the hell away and spare me from the idiots on CL and Facebook Marketplace at this point. I'm so tired of them. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Mar 31, 2018 11:57
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Edit: gone Location: MA What's for sale: '01 2.5L Subaru Forester, auto, and a LOT of parts Price: 500 Problems: - lots. This is a gambler car at best. The rear right strut tower has fatal rust, it's actually moved far enough after a pothole last winter that the plastic trim is popping off the interior in the trunk. DO NOT EXPECT TO DRIVE THIS ON ROADS WITHOUT WELDING THAT IT IS REALLY NOT WORTH. THIS IS A GAMBLER 500 CAR YOU WILL BOOGER WELD BACK TOGETHER WITH ANGLE IRON, OR A PARTS CAR. THAT IS IT. The exhaust has cracked off right between the cat and the donut gasket flange for I think the third time and I've used up all my spare exhaust parts already, so I'm done with it. The transmission has the regular 4eat rev flare on downshift issue, it might be fixable with a can of the usual recommended "magic in a can" to rejuvenate the seal on the clutch apply piston that always acts up, it might not. I don't know. It still drove fine aside from that, so either manually downshift and wait a second before mashing the throttle, or put the magic in a can in it, or whatever I don't care. I even bought it like 2 years ago and never actually put it in because this was an A-B car that I have zero project interest in, so I only cared enough to work on it if it stopped keeping my rear end cool or getting me to work. I replaced the engine with one from my first Forester, which was the third engine I put in that Forester, and had already been in at least two cars when I bought it, because it had LKQ warranty badges on the backs of the cylinder heads. Engine actually sounds great, no noticeable rod knock and no overheating. The battery is currently dead from sitting since I haven't driven it since like... March I think. Maybe April or May? It was a commuting car and I've been rocking the Comanche or the Roadmaster mostly so it sits. It sounds like it's not worth the asking price right? Well here's the deal. I have owned 3 beater Foresters. I am moving soon. I have a big frigging stack of spare parts. Ungodly big, even after using up as much as I could on this last car. I am never buying another 98-02 Forester, and much of the parts stack won't fit later ones, nor anything else I'll ever buy. So to reduce my temptation to buy another one just to get my moneys worth out of my parts hoard, you get ALL OF IT. Things I know I have off the top of my head: rear disc brake bearing knuckles complete with everything on them. A few rear drum brake bearing knuckles. A few fronts too? A brand new front CV shaft, though it probably needs rust wirewheeled off it from storage. Spare rear driveshafts - one auto one manual. A spare auto transmission I bought from Slow is Fast. A spare manual I bought for a previous Forester and never used. Several clutch masters/slaves, some new in box. Brand new rear brake pads. Brand new rear brake shoes. Brand new rear brake drums. At least one brand new strut, can't remember which one. A 4.10 open rear differential that I cleaned out and closed back up and put new axle seals in. Several spare coilpacks. A spare alternator if I can find it, and I think a brand new regulator for it. Spare bulbs, clips, etc. Several radios, factory and aftermarket. Interior parts. Exterior parts. Brand new steering rack boots. A brand new oil/vapor separator plate I never installed. I seem to recall some other spare steering parts, but not sure. Brand new Whiteline trailing arm and rear diff bushings are somewhere I think, still in the bag/box. A bunch of exhaust gaskets, donuts, springs, etc. I think I have 2 maybe 3 sets of wheel bearings and seals for one end of it, but I'm not sure which. All brand new in boxes. I may have brand new brake rotors for it too somewhere. I know I have brand new rear brake drum backing plates on the shelf as well, which I paid a stupid amount of money for before realizing that I'd have to dig the ebrake cables out of the old ones and they'd disintegrate if I touched them. This list is far from complete. Literally every Forester part I find while organizing and packing is going in the trunk and back seat and you have to take all of them with it. The AC is complete and works for a few weeks if you charge it (Gambler 500 in comfort!) and I replaced the condenser, dryer, and two liquid lines over the years. I suspect the leak is in the compressor, vapor line, or evaporator and it simply wasn't worth my time to fix. It's that piss colored gold metallic color and has decent condition tires on it, too. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Aug 16, 2020 07:33
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If you ever want it gone, let me know immediately and I'll get it out of your way... And grant you free visitation rights once I set it up. I would have been all over it if I had my shop built already.
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Feb 27, 2022 23:03
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Sold
kastein fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Jul 18, 2023 |
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Aug 19, 2022 02:20
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I'm not saying you should fly and drive, but you should fly and drive.
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Nov 1, 2022 18:28
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TBI SBC F-body intake (casting 14102182) and F-body thermostat housing for sale. Goon price 20 bucks plus the ride, I have zero use for this. I haven't made them pretty or anything but I let it all marinate in 5 gallons of gas for several hours on each end, scrubbed the poo poo out of it with a steel brush, scraped all the trash off the gasket surfaces with a fresh razor, chased every thread with the correct tap (except for the EGR fasteners - it comes with an EGR valve) including the NPT water and vacuum ports, and removed all the baked on chunky black oil varnish from the underside. You could simply give it a quick once over with brakleen and bolt it on if you don't care about appearance. Located in 98367.
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Nov 22, 2022 04:49
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Post in the dumb questions thread reminded me. I've got a parts store rental set of deathsticks (macstrut compressor tool) that I lost track of until it was far too late to return them. I no longer own any macstrut cars and have no intention of doing so in the future. Someone come give me 20 bucks in central mass and they're yours. They're 44 new or 55 rental normally.
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May 9, 2023 04:06
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Edit: GW gone, I miss it already 89 grand wagoneer project for sale, located in New Braintree Mass. 360, auto, 4x4, red leather in great shape, in fact the interior is probably worth my asking price, it has under 30k miles on it. It kills me to sell it since I'll never see an interior in this condition again but I can't justify shipping it 3000 miles. 1700 bucks, including a pile of parts I got for it. Only downside, it was parked on dirt and needs a frame. No you probably cannot fix this one but if you think you can by all means try. I am trying to line a frame up from my usual sources for whoever buys it. I will also sell you a 2 post lift to swap the frame with for 800 separately, or goon combo price of 2200. I probably have near 3000 into this mess. kastein fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Jul 24, 2023 |
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Jul 18, 2023 00:16
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Grand Wagoneer is gone. Edit: lift is also now gone.  I miss it already2 post lift now 500 bucks goon price. Details from my FB marketplace post: For sale, my 2 post auto lift. Works well, I have used it to lift my Jeep Comanche (3500lb) my Jeep J10 (5500lb) and my wife's Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon (4500lb) for upgrades and repairs. Drive-over design ideal for tall vehicles that would be limited by a top cross bar between the posts. Near as I can tell this was from the GM dealer equipment program years ago. It runs off 240VAC single phase, I run it on a 20 amp circuit no problem. It is not particularly fast but it sure is cheap for a 2 post lift. I'm moving soon and can't justify taking it with me. You will need to bring a 1-3/8 wrench and a 30mm wrench or socket and ratchet as most of my tools are already packed and gone. It is heavy, between 1500lb and 2000lb, this thing is not built light, I used a U-Haul 6x12 open utility trailer and it worked fine. The mounting base plate is 12 feet wide so don't bring a trailer shorter than that. I should be able to have my neighbor help load the posts and base plate with his backhoe. kastein fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Jul 28, 2023 |
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Jul 24, 2023 06:39
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Guessing no one's gonna want them, but before I give them to a random 240 drift kid at the parts store. Anyone want a set of FREE Toyo proxes RA1s for a NA Miata? They're like 205/50r15s I think. I'd say about 1/8 to 3/16 tread remaining. Pretty old and not dot approved tires so expect to be using these as burnout or drift tires and then binning them. I would probably not drive on public roads with them and definitely not in the rain. Located in Port Orchard WA but can meet anywhere along 3, 16, or 5 between Shelton, Tacoma, Bremerton, and Centralia if our schedules align. Bring a set of bare wheels they'll fit on to my place and I'll even mount and balance them for you. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Apr 6, 2024 |
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Apr 6, 2024 05:30
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