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I love your car. If you're ever in Edmonton there's beer in it for you to let me check it out. If you were up in the Rockies I hope you took some time to hit up a closed road up a moutain. In Jasper at least there's a bunch of winding awesome roads that get closed down for the summer because the ski hill/winter attraction at the top isn't open.
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Sep 5, 2013 22:11
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Hah, I knew I recognized this thing! I spotted you in Kelowna. For such stock-looking bodywork, it still stands out. Did you drive along the Coquihalla Highway? Great scenery along there.
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Sep 6, 2013 00:32
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Samu posted:if you were up in the Rockies I hope you took some time to hit up a closed road up a moutain. Went up one when I was going up 99 in BC, but didn't really get to go play rally driver because of the tires and the alignment (or lack there of). The view was pretty and next year I'd love to take a similar trip and spend more time just exploring the little nooks and crannies along the way, there were so many places I wanted to just turn down to see where the road would take me but I didn't have time to indulge in most of them  The fiance wants to check out the west Edmonton mall so I might be up that ways next year. the bsd boys posted:Did you drive along the Coquihalla Highway? Great scenery along there. Glad to hear it stands out, it's definitely an odd duckling for sure. I went a little ways down Coquihalla but not through the more scenic sections, I went up from Vancouver on 99, went through Cache Creek then onto HWY 1 towards Kamloops and turned onto Coquihalla from there, in Merritt went onto 97C to Kelowna. From there headed up to Vernon and Kamloops then onto HWY 5 up to Jasper. On the way to Vancouver I took Crows Nest HWY 3, which was incredible to go down. The shear amount of construction I hit on this trip is mind boggling. I've been on many trips with my parents as a kid going through the Rockies and it's crazy how much everything has changed from what I remember, there was a big shift from mostly campgrounds to now mostly RV parks, and a few of the more touristy areas I remember are now more sectioned off and more exhibit like than being in the outdoors. There's still places to enjoy nature at its finest but they're getting harder to find from what I've experienced. Oh, and I tried the Titty Bar! finally. It's surprisingly good quality milk chocolate, would have expected cheap chocolate at a high price because of the wrapper but it was actually quite good.
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Sep 9, 2013 22:28
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Just a quick update to keep the thread out of archives. Took some pictures a few weeks back, thought I'd share some of the *very* few that turned out ok. Need to get more practice with a camera again. Threw on the in-between seasons all-season wheels and hoping that the winter wheels aren't too wide/big and I don't run into the same issue as with the summers that I had on the trip, I can probably survive the winter on these tires if need be and get a set of coilovers so I can raise it just a smidge and get some more room for tires. Saw another AI poster selling coilovers that would be perfect but it's not in the cards at the moment    And ended up looking through older pictures and it's weird to see how much the car has changed.  Have to dig up a picture without the toplights, looks completely different. As for actual updates on the car, I still haven't replaced the rear wheel bearings, have them both in hand but Uni's been busy because of midterms so I haven't found the time. Hopefully this coming weekend won't be too crazy. Replaced the supposed original battery, it was showing some trouble starting at just below freezing so it was bound to fail sooner rather than later, with an Optima Red Top  Cranks perfect now and won't have to worry about those cold winter mornings anymore.Well, back into hibernation. Winter is coming and I'll be posting videos of playing in the snow most likely. If there's updates on the car I'll post them.
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Oct 28, 2013 22:08
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We start this update with the following:  I now understand why some people call Nissan the Chrysler of Japan. Changed the thermostat since it was opening too soon, or was getting stuck open, it would take forever to blow heat last winter, and when it did it was still more of a lukewarm than actual heat. For something that should have been a less than 15 min fix, it was a bitch. Everything is rusted, all the hose clamps are over-tightened and rusted tight and of course there's a clamp in the way of one of the bolts on the thermostat housing  Figured I'd do a coolant change too while I'm at it since I've got no idea when the last time it was even looked at and it was cheap enough. Drained while doing the thermostat and once it was all buttoned up again, I filled the radiator with the new stuff, pumped the rad hose and filled some more then started it up. All was fine for a while, waiting for more bubbles and topping it up as necessary, all with the cap off. It started puking it's cooling out in an ol-faithful style geyser. Shut it off, sounded like the coolant was boiling off inside the block but the lower rad hose was still cold so the new thermostat hadn't opened (I tested it in a pot before putting it in so it's a known good one) filled it up again and with the cap closed started it and warmed it up a little, It almost filled the overflow bottle this time so I turned it off and let it cool off, same thing with the cold lower rad hose, this time fans turned on and wouldn't shut off, dash gauge indidcates it doesn't think it's overheating.Took off the hose going from the water pump and it does have coolant, had a thought that maybe the head gasket is toast for a second because of the pressure in the coolant system, maybe the water pump has a lovely impeller is finally dying, who knows. Dropped it down, filled the rad, and started it again after it cooled off. Lo and behold, it blows hot air, heats up fine, lower rad hose now gets hot after the car warms up, seems to be working fine. gently caress if I know why it wasn't working before.  Well after that was sorted out, I was frisky and decided to do the rear wheel bearing in the Baja, finally I could drive around without sounding like a helicopter! Was a little bit annoying, I've done the front bearings but they came with the hub in one unit so they were simply unbolt and put back in, the rears didn't. Took the back end apart and got to town, was a little surprised at how it's all put together but it wasn't too crazy.  Once the bearings were out, I had to separate them from the hub, wish I could have ordered a hub/bearing assembly, but oh well. Pulled the old bearings off the hub with this fancy 3 prong puller which was used earlier to get the whole assembly off the drum brake part. Had to be creative with the prong placement to get it to work. Used the wheels to hold it all nice and straight, was easier than doing it on a garage floor.  This worked, for the most part. Only issue was that the inner race was stuck on the hub, and no good way to get it off. After much swearing and a dozen methods that didn't work, resorted to taking it to a friends shop where he torched the inner race cutting it a little and managed to bang them off. Cleaned up the old hub and pressed the new bearings on and assembled it all back together and it all works. Yay! Also fuxed around with the transmission mounts because 2nd was having issues with popping out when transitioning from accel to engine braking and that issue is now fixed for the most part, but in the process apparently didn't tighten one of the hoses on the intercooler fully and I've got a slight boost leak, now producing 120 kpa instead of the usual 135-140kpa in 1st gear under full acceleration. Just have to tighten it back up/ put on the hoses right and I'm all set.
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Nov 4, 2013 20:11
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What? Looked at the diagram, that's crazy. I would be willing to be the 05-09 complete bearing/hub bolts right in though. PN is 28473AG00B.
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Nov 4, 2013 20:25
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Once I started tearing into it, it looks like that would have been a much better idea. I think the spline count for the axles would be the same too. I have no idea why Subaru thought it's better to sell the two parts separate rather than one piece. The front bearings and hubs ('10 WRX) I did a while ago look identical and come as a single unit and was much nicer to deal with, although the spline count is different on the newer axles so it wouldn't have worked in the back.
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Nov 4, 2013 21:24
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Bajaha posted:
I ran into the same thing (well, the air pockets, not the rust) when I changed the water pump and thermostat on my old Altima. Also, the dash gauge has its own sending unit - it's that one wire deal on the neck for the upper hose. The temp sensor for the ECU is on the back of the engine somewhere; if the fans kicked on and wouldn't stop, the ECU was seeing far north of 100C. I wound up with an external head gasket leak after that fiasco, but it didn't seem to be leaking internally; it just weeped coolant around #4 (not much, just a few drops here and there).
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Nov 6, 2013 23:09
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Honestly wouldn't be surprised if it has an external leak, not that I would be able to tell anyway, this thing weeps all of its fluid everywhere. I like to think of it as its last ditch effort to prevent more rust. Surprisingly doesn't need much oil between changes (service interval is when I remember/feel like changing the oil) despite constantly leaving stains wherever its parked. Thankfully no coolant in the oil and vice versa, and it doesn't smoke on startup or running either so its not an internal leak if it has one. I don't expect this Nissan to last much longer than another year or so, currently its pulling its weight as a daily/winter beater for my father (been looking at getting a new forester but he's got an odd attachment to old beaters, last one was his beloved 98 Civic that never saw preventative maintenance yet gave him no trouble until it was rear ended and totaled this year) This thing will probably outlast every other car we have just out of spite. Edit: Also going to have to look around and get an oil pressure gauge that reads over 100psi, the Baja has a cold oil pressure of 98-100+ and when warmed up in higher rpms it goes above 100 psi as well, kinda nerve racking and not that useful of a gauge when it defaults to displaying --- with the little LED needle all the way at zero when the pressure goes above the range its supposed to. Looks like AEM makes one that goes up to 150psi so I'll look around and see what they go for. Bajaha fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Nov 8, 2013 |
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Nov 8, 2013 17:00
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It is WINTER! We have a nice first snow fall and as such, it is the duty of everyone on the road to test how their vehicle reacts in slippery conditions. Also, I found out that launch control works wonders when you have very little grip and don't have to worry about burning clutch or exploding diffs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQpLlkFtoI0
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Nov 17, 2013 08:12
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Just using the stock WRX with a Cobb AP? That's neato.
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Nov 17, 2013 19:46
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Phone posted:Just using the stock WRX with a Cobb AP? That's neato. I'm not quite following here... I'm using a V2 AP for LC and Flat Foot shifting, the motor has quite a few mods and is tuned by Airboy as detailed in this thread. Anyway, onto an update! Had a little bit of a Subaru meet locally, we had some fun playing in the snow, was a little deep but that didn't stop us. It was freezing, temp right now sits @ -27*c with a wind chill of -40*C, tomorrow morning it's supposed to be -30*C with a windchill of -43*C. Click for big        Finally put on the snow tires a week back so I have grip driving around, as much fun as it is sliding around I'd much rather be able to stop when I want to. Anyway, I'll be throwing up more winter shenanigans when we get a nice snowfall. Bajaha fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Dec 8, 2013 |
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Dec 8, 2013 06:14
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More pictures of sliding around incoming! Click for BIG   
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Dec 9, 2013 19:02
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Yeah, I was asking if all of the tuning and extras (launch control + flat foot) was all done on a stock ECU with the AccessPort. Another way of saying this is asking if you're not running a stand alone (Megasquirt, etc). Those pics are rad as hell and looks like a verifiable Good Time.
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Dec 9, 2013 19:07
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Oh ok, that makes more sense. Kinda threw me off since I'm not used to thinking of standalone units with Subaru, the stock ecu is flash-able and very capable so unless you're going for big big power or want fancier features like anti-lag I think almost everyone just sticks to tuning the stock ecu (exception being some of the older turbo models from what I've seen) And yeah, I can vouch that it was a good time, was a little bumpy because of the deep snow and the ruts that form but fun nonetheless.
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Dec 9, 2013 19:25
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Got a surprise trip to Cuba over Christmas and just came back, I really should have stayed there. This morning was -35*C w/ 91% humidity, supposedly feels like -45*C, all I know is it was loving cold. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwKOcwoi1yQ
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Dec 29, 2013 17:04
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You know it's cold when you let go of the clutch in neutral and the car stalls because the gear oil is frozen solid. How low does the outdoor temperature gauge on your car go? The one in my old WRX topped out at -35. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Dec 29, 2013 |
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Dec 29, 2013 18:25
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Thankfully haven't had that problem yet, if it wasn't high idle I'm sure it would stall. Actually don't know how low it goes, the old Baja one displayed -32°C once I think, not sure it was pegged though. The display is sitting on a shelf now because it's supposed to be in a dash pocket for the '10 Impreza while the Baja used to have it on the gauge cluster itself. Was thinking of building it into the center pod somehow but haven't been able to imagine where to have it without it looking like rear end. Edit: in other news, my key's got an awesome new turbo, it spools up and everything  
Bajaha fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Dec 30, 2013 |
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Dec 29, 2013 23:07
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Awe drat spoke too soon. Spent all day bumming around the house and just started the car now and letting out the clutch killed it. drat cold, gotta check the weathernetwork and see what temperature froze Hell over today. Got a nice layer of frost over the entire thing too.
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Dec 31, 2013 00:08
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Ask this guy for some advice.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIsG_8TVokw
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Dec 31, 2013 00:11
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Haha wow. Coldest we've seen this year was something like -15f (-26c). Idle dropped but the car didn't stall.
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Dec 31, 2013 00:28
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I am thankful I'm not that far north, we usually don't get this ridiculously cold for very long. Apparently this December has been the 2nd coldest since 1893 http://globalnews.ca/news/1054465/province-under-wind-chill-warning-as-caa-manitoba-breaks-service-record/ Global news aritcle posted:The only colder December in the past century was in 2000, when the mean temperature was -22 C. The normal mean temperature in December is -13 C. I really need to put the block heater cord back in... e: feels like it's getting colder everyday, at least when it's this colds the shifter feels tight
Bajaha fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Dec 31, 2013 |
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Dec 31, 2013 20:21
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So this might be the last update for the winter season unfortunately. (lovely Cell Pics ahead since I never have my nice camera on me when I want to take pics) This weekend I made my way out to the good ol' US of A, so I washed the car and got it all pretty for the trip.  I was planning on taking the Baja but the day before the trip the transmission starts making a wirring noise. At the time I don't think too much of it as it wasn't a really scary noise, was fairly quiet, and only started after the coldest day we had. I figured the noise was because of the extreme cold or whatever and was planning on checking it out when I came back. As a precaution I borrowed my parents 2013 Civic and parked mine in the driveway, while parking I heard some clunking and it was bucking a touch moving around the driveway, I got really worried that something went awry in the transmission but I figured some packed ice had fallen from the wheel well and was rubbing on the tire and I was driving over what had fallen off. You know, being optimistic and not too paranoid. Well, either way it would have to wait until I get back. On the trip much shopping was had, Christmas stuff was being cleared out so we ended up buying a ridiculous amount of ornaments and tinsel, and even one of those pre-lit fake trees. Packed the civic beyond belief and I picked up the awesome package I had waiting from Jamal:  The rear end should feel so much nicer after these all go in  Once back, I swapped cars and started driving home, got maybe a 200ft away and the transmission starts bucking, making terrible grinding and clunking noises. Immediately I turn back and limp it to my parents place where it proceeds to drop out of reverse when I was turning around and almost refusing to go into second all while making very expensive sounding noises. Anyway, it's parked for now, pulling the insurance on it tomorrow morning and turning it onto storage insurance while I wait for the weather to warm up so I can figure out exactly what the hell happened. And of course University classes start tomorrow, looks like it's public transit for the next few months! So much for washing it and buying it new bushings Here it sits as of now: I guess it's looking like there's a 6spd swap in the near future , I've had really bad luck with the 5MT, right before the wrx swap the old transmission killed it's center diff and transfer gears and shortly after that was fixed it had to be completely rebuilt, ended up to the tune of around $5k for both services at the time because I was in a bind and needed a driveable car, only got about $1k after selling it. For those prices I'm doing a 6MT swap and not looking back. So yeah, doesn't look like much is going to happen with it until spring.
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Jan 6, 2014 07:26
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The other night got a friend to help me take it to a heated garage, where this weekend I'll lift it up, listen to what is actually making noise, and drain the fluid, If there's metal shavings (probably) I'm just going to say gently caress it and swapping the 6MT. Going to be looking for an 09+ transmission as they're newer with less miles (less likely it's been abused or worn out) and with the wrx swap it already uses the abs sensors instead of a vss so I'm good on that front.  And today I managed to lift it up  And I listened to where it was making noise, it's not pretty. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pfw3CuRPHMw And then I drained the trans oil  Yup, that's metal.  I'm pretty sure Extra-S isn't supposed to look like this after only around 25k km, the picture doesn't really capture the alluring shiny silver metal tone to the oil.  More goodies left in the pan  So, it's definitely a 6 speed swap for me now, parking the Baja for the winter and I'll get to it in the spring. Going to tear down the 5MT and see exactly which part looks like it caused it, I've got some theories but I'll hopefully know once I take it apart. Anybody know if I can swap over the push style clutch/flywheel/pp assembly from my current 5MT over to the 6MT? Haven't been able to find a concrete answer, I'm leaning towards no, but if I can reuse my pretty much new current setup that would be a big bonus.
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Jan 11, 2014 06:39
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Pull type wrx stuff will work on a 6-speed but not push-type. Those transmissions are actually pretty simple to take apart and work on. So you could just fix what is broken for a lot less than a 6-speed costs if you are ok with the downtime. Biggest things you need are a press and bearing splitter.
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Jan 11, 2014 06:48
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If I end up finding time during the school year I might attempt that, but engineering is pretty intensive in terms of course work so I doubt I'll have much free time for anything until late April. I've been burned by the 5MT 3 times now and I'm kinda approaching it like a dog would a porcupine, plus I've been drooling over the idea of having the "bulletproof" 6MT and playing with DCCD and having an LSD in the front and rear. The Cusco 1.5 way unit would be really nice but I can save that for later on. We'll see what happens but so far I'm using it as an excuse to upgrade, and as far as costs are concerned I've gone too far down the rabbit hole to start thinking about things rationally 
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Jan 11, 2014 07:09
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Buy a beater toyota tercel for now, its always good to have two cars when you have boosted projects.
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Jan 11, 2014 07:25
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OUCH.... that doesn't sound happy. At all. Still got the Altima?
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Jan 11, 2014 10:12
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The Altima is still going strong surprisingly, the clutch is actually a little grippier in winter and I threw on a cheap set of snow tires on the second set of wheels, but It's been reassigned as a beater DD for my father after his 98 civic got rear-ended. Even with a slipping clutch it's faster than how most people drive on the roads, and with the new thermostat you can crank the heat so that it feels like the fires of hell are coming through the vents, it's nice and toasty I've got to start looking through Kijiji for a cheap backup beater, for the school year I can survive w/o a car and just use public transit during the week and take back the Altima on weekends. I've just got watch out for rust since it seems like most cars in the sub $1500 bracket are a husk of their former sheetmetal.
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Jan 11, 2014 16:59
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Get a cheapo Impreza in the summer. Cars that are sub-$2000 in the summer are $4000+ in the winter. Some guy near me posted his gorgeous low-miles auto 02 TS for $9000 this morning. You should be able to use an older 6-speed with the car, just swap the VSS plug from your 5-speed into the 6-speed so all the juice doesn't fly out. Dunno how the DCCD will react but you don't necessarily have to wire it up unless you want DCCDPro/MapDCCD. One of those works properly with CANbus but I don't remember which... I wouldn't worry too much about 6-speed abuse, I've seen guys who clearly had no business operating a car hammer on them and they laughed it off. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Jan 11, 2014 |
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Jan 11, 2014 19:18
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I'll figure something out with the trans and backup vehicle eventually, started thinking of looking for something relatively easy to fix off of the salvage auctions since I'm hoping the market will be saturated with the amount of wrecks there have been this winter. I might get lucky and pick up something like a manual 08-10 commuter car for ~$2.5k-$3k, might as well keep an eye out. In the mean time apparently I'm easily distracted by shiny things and have some money on my PayPal burning a hole in my pocket, and with a birthday coming up I figured I might as well get myself a present. Problem is I can't decide what to spend the money on. Apparently the GC Aluminum control arms are compatible with the Baja, they're going for around $230ish on eBay. From looking around the benefits are that they're ~1kg lighter, won't rust into oblivion, add a little castor (if they're the right model I think), and they're stiffer  , cons are: I don't need to replace control arms at the moment so why spend the dough and being aluminum they're more likely to break the subframe in the event of an impact instead of deforming like the steel ones. Are they worth it or is it a dumb idea?Otherwise I've had my eye on another two whiteline bushing kits, namely the two for the diff rear mount and the two for the diff front mount (KDT906 & 905) since apparently Whiteline is like crack and once you start you can't stop, a cobb filter cleaning kit since I'll eventually have to re-oil the sf intake, rally armor mudflaps since one of the OEM Baja ones cracked, OEM replacements are $$$, and I'm sure the others will crack given enough time driving around lowered. Just need to figure out if I want to just get the basic ones (are they any good?) or the OMG Polyurethane ones that are priced like they're made of gold. Decisions, decisions...
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Jan 31, 2014 23:38
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I've done the aluminum control arm swap onto a WRX wagon and even have one of the arms still lying around. They didn't seem to make a huge difference to me but I thought they were pretty cool when I was already down there replacing a bent steel arm from the PO. Do you have an anti lift kit yet?
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Jan 31, 2014 23:50
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Yeah, I've got the ALK ordered it from Jamal a while back, not installed yet. I'm buying an 05 Baja rear subframe with all the related suspension bits minus the struts/springs from a local Baja owner and plan on stripping it down, refinishing it (probably going to powdercoat it since I'm going all out anyway) and putting in all the bushings on the bench and just swapping the whole assembly. So far my to-be-installed Whiteline parts are as follows; W63393, W63394, W63395, W63396, W63398, KCA399, KCA319A. Which covers pretty much all the rear bushings minus the diff ones, and the ALK.
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Feb 1, 2014 00:07
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I'm not going to convert the part numbers into what is what, but I will say, skip the front arms and go with more bushings. You can get prothane front rear diff bushings for cheaper off amazon. I went with the rear inserts from prothane instead of the whiteline replacement because cheaper and I didn't want to get the stock ones out. If you do not already have them, BUY THE TRAILING ARM BUSHINGS. Those are the #1 best mod you can do on any subaru IMO. Such better pedal response. Also if you are going for a separate rear subframe, I believe its proflex that makes the 4x mount bushings poly for the subframe. I have an excel spreadsheet at work with all the bushing and part #s so on monday I can look them up for you. Also install your ALK
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Feb 1, 2014 00:57
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He has trailing arm bushings. The only control arms worth swapping to are 04-06 STi. Wider track, more caster. The GC arms don't make much of a geometry change if any.
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Feb 1, 2014 01:54
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Slow is Fast posted:I'm not going to convert the part numbers into what is what, but I will say, skip the front arms and go with more bushings. Might as well list them off for future reference, I'll have to look it up anyway to make sure I'm not putting the bushings in the wrong place and it might be useful for other Subaru Baja (Am I the only one?) & Legacy owners on here. W63393 - Control arm - lower front inner & outer bushing W63394 - Control arm - lower rear outer bushing W63395 - Control arm - lower rear inner bushing W63396 - Control arm - upper inner bushing KCA399 - Control arm - upper outer bushing (camber correction) KCA319A - Control arm - lower inner rear bushing (anti-lift/caster correction) Slow is Fast posted:
Just looking into Prothane now on amazon and it looks like the front rear diff bushings are about the same as the Whiteline ones (~$40) maybe they go on sale? The diff inserts are cheaper though at ~$20 for the Prothane vs ~$35 for Whiteline inserts. I'm guessing there isn't a huge difference between just the inserts and the replacement bushings. That would be awesome if you could get me those part numbers for the proflex bushings, only thing I found when looking for proflex was a company that makes tile grout and caulking, and another that looks like they just make coilovers and not any bushings. Maybe I missed it or am looking in the wrong places. ALK is going in later in spring (don't think I'll be seeing the benefits of it if it's staying parked for the next little while), cars sitting in the garage right now waiting for transmission swap, just waiting for a not so freezing day to put it up on jackstands so that the tires don't flatspot like crazy. jamal posted:He has trailing arm bushings. Well in that case it looks like it'll probably end up being bushings for now (probably a few of the other little things I listed as well). When I've got the car up and working on it in the spring I'll take a look and see how my control arms are and if I can justify replacing them. I'll send you an email later on in the week with my order once I figure out what I want.
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Feb 1, 2014 18:05
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So, in the interest of getting a reliable daily driver, I had a few options. Was looking at the local auctions for something nice to go through and there were some deals I missed but there's always the chance of hidden damage and unexpected costs so I'm not too bummed about it. There was an 04 Mazda 3 w/ 130k km the other week with hail damage, looked really nice but people went nuts for it and it wen't for over $4500 before tax, for a 10 year old hail damaged car. Locally I've seen a few on Kijiji asking between 3k-5k for similar ones. Started thinking of financing something newer than 2010 so I looked at a few used dealers but didn't find anything too great for the prices. Mazda 3's seemed to be the go-to as I was checking out 2 2010 ones but after financing they were north of $16k. That's within spitting distance of some cheaper new cars, and you get a warranty with anything new, so me and my fiance started looking at new. We settled on the Veloster as the compromise between sporty, practical, quirky, and affordable. After getting jerked around at one dealer where the sticker price of $19k balooned to over $27.8k for a grey automatic base, we wen't to a competing dealer and ended up with a blue 6mt fully loaded turbo for just under $27k w/ 0% financing.   So far we're loving it, lets hope it treats us right. And SiF, any luck with those proflex part numbers?
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Feb 21, 2014 22:43
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Feb 21, 2014 23:35
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That's a slight upgrade from taking the bus! Nice car, and "retina-searing blue" is my favorite color. I'm leaning heavily toward Hyundai CPO for my next car, they've been putting out some fantastic stuff.
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Feb 22, 2014 10:36
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 14:42 |
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Thanks! It's surprising how hard it is to find anything that isn't on the grey scale when looking at new cars. Seems like 90% of the cars on the lots are either white, black, or various shades of grey. Either the in-your-face colours are selling out or people aren't buying them in big numbers, from looking around the roads here it looks like it's the latter rather than the former. Tell you the truth, it was the colour that originally got my fiance to want this turbo, all the other extra's it has over the base model were just minor bonuses to her. Hyundai has honestly surprised me in the last couple years, If you told me about 7-10 years ago I'd be buying a new Hyundai I wouldn't believe you. The pricing locally is similar between other marks but you just get so much more with the new Hyundai's, their quality, warranty, and financing are all great and it's making them a very attractive option. As for progress on the Baja, there's none so far, placed an order with Jamal for some more bushings and various goodies, and probably ordering that powerflex bushing kit through him as well. Trans search is on hold for now, seeing as I've got the new car right now. I'm leaning towards cracking open this box and rebuilding it as cost efficiently as I can so I can drive it around in the mean time before I source all the parts I'd need for 6 speed.
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Feb 22, 2014 20:47
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