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Jesus christ, good loving job. You've come a long way. I've played in a turbo 6 speed baja and it was a bonkers vehicle all around.
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Nov 15, 2012 04:50
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| # ¿ Apr 24, 2024 18:50 |
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When you put on those HTS's. DON'T IMPACT THE NUT ON. I put them on my legacy and loving three of them clunk and I don't know why. I impacted the nut on so maybe that did it I don't loving know but I don't want them to clunk but I don't want to deal with it. They say not to in the install instructions.
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Jan 18, 2013 01:11
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They're what? 7 turn I think? start at 3 or 4 all around, and bounce test. If things bounce too much stiffen 'em up. The front should be one turn firmer due to the engine weight. Take it for a drive. I think my legacy is at like 3 turns out front and one turn out rear because the rear was bouncing like crazy and just stupid, but then again I don't know if I broke them with the impact.
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Jan 18, 2013 22:28
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Bajaha posted:
That is a funny looking cat. Good job op. Slam that slutty motor back in and go make turbo wooshy sounds soon please
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Apr 27, 2013 15:15
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Did you have any issues with turbo fitment around the firewall? I'm thinking of selling my 3rd gen sedan for a 3rd gen wagon and just dropping in a turbo motor and doing the wiring in my apartment because I hate money and myself.
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Jul 29, 2013 22:49
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I'm not going to convert the part numbers into what is what, but I will say, skip the front arms and go with more bushings. You can get prothane front rear diff bushings for cheaper off amazon. I went with the rear inserts from prothane instead of the whiteline replacement because cheaper and I didn't want to get the stock ones out. If you do not already have them, BUY THE TRAILING ARM BUSHINGS. Those are the #1 best mod you can do on any subaru IMO. Such better pedal response. Also if you are going for a separate rear subframe, I believe its proflex that makes the 4x mount bushings poly for the subframe. I have an excel spreadsheet at work with all the bushing and part #s so on monday I can look them up for you. Also install your ALK
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Feb 1, 2014 00:57
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Feb 21, 2014 23:35
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God drat. When you have that figured out, I should mail a set to  to have you retrofit.
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Apr 7, 2014 02:48
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Seat Safety Switch posted:As a guy who spilled gear oil in the back of a Subaru, what you want to do is go to Wal-Mart, in the home air freshener section, and get an armful of $5 Air Sponges. Pop one open every three weeks and it should absorb most of the stench. On the way home from picking up my replacement trans, the transmission tipped over in the back of my moms ford escape and farted all the gear oil out the axle hole. Had to rip the carpet out and pressure wash it and it still smells. Happy mothers day mom
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May 2, 2014 16:16
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What up grill light bro: Also I think I have you beat on axles. I'll find out when I go through storage and assemble a spares bin this week.
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Jul 11, 2014 15:32
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Your rear subframe is still installed. My sympathy is depleting. Yes the rear bolts like to seize, but you can get around that with a sawzall and new bolts/bushings. I'll be doing that soon on my wagon and plan to use the whiteline rear adjustable arms and new bolts. I really want to replace my rear subframe though as it is pretty flexy. No holes yet though. Congrats on the 6 speed though. In addition to being able to slam gears like an rear end in a top hat, you also get some BALLER AS gently caress trick diffs.
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Jul 28, 2014 01:03
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I will absolutely take the powerproflex bushings if it makes sense for you and I dollhair and shipping wise.
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Jul 28, 2014 01:37
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Bajaha posted:For the rear subframe, I went all out with the 2ft breaker bar and a nice long cheater bar. The rear two subframe bolts came out without too much of a fight, but the front two, drat. Drivers rear I went straight to cutting it off after being unable to turn it at all, took a while but I got the head off. For the rear it just started turning and holy crap, it felt like trying to undo a cross-threaded bolt. Sat beside the car and was rowing with the breaker bar getting it off. WHAT UP BROKEN REAR SUBFRAME BOLT BUDDY   That was on my gold car. We solved it with oxy ace and drilling out the thing + tapping it to some huge rear end SAE size. Bonus shot of my rusty subframe:  While it's out, make sure you blow all the crap out from it and get some kind of paint or something on it. Because the thing is boxed up it likes to trap dirt and moisture and rot out after 10 years of salt.
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Jul 31, 2014 14:18
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I'm thinking of my subframe in two or three different ways. First, the original lasted 10 years, gently caress it the next one will last that long too before it's an issue. Two, Fluid film it every year before winter, give no fucks. Three, cover the voids with aluminum tape and chassis saver over it so it is now solid and cant have dirt/salt barfed in it all winter. Not sure which route I plan to take, but I'll probably do a rear subframe in the early spring. And I like chassis saver way more than POR15, I've found it to be more durable. I've been using eastwood's internal frame coating for internal rockers and haven't had anything negative to report yet. Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Aug 5, 2014 |
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Aug 5, 2014 18:43
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REGARDING REUSING SUBARU CLUTCH ASSEMBLY BOLTS..... I am going to say a lot of do as I say not as I do poo poo here..... The RS has had three clutch assemblies on it. Using the origional pressure plate and flywheel bolts. It gets worse. Friend had a performance shop and they impacted all the flywheel bolts and never had an issue.... So I have always impacted in the flywheel on then torqued the PP bolts. This is hacky as poo poo. I haven't had an issue yet but you should still probably buy new bolts and torque everything to spec. My wagon has had the clutch assembly moved over with the donor trans. I impacted on the flywheel and torqued the PP. No issue. You can get away with it, but you probably shouldn't. If Kastein reads this he's probably going to shoot me.... do as I say not as I do....
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Aug 8, 2014 02:43
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enki EKM3s or 04 STi bbs's with spacers Less is more. Or because you're in poutine land, get some nice jdm wheels.
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Oct 19, 2014 01:38
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jamal posted:An exhaust for an 05-09 has got to be really close to the same. Might be worth starting with over fabricating something entirely from scratch. Are there two mufflers on the stock system like an outback/lgt? Or maybe just space and hangers on both sides? 3rd gens have a charcoal box and it's left side exit vs 4th gens were dual exhaust. The best option is custom or off the shelf and cut up to make work.
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Nov 1, 2014 18:39
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In the future don't drain the gear oil. Just jack the front up, leave the rear end down, and pop the axles out.
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Mar 16, 2015 03:53
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Bajaha posted:Huh, good to know for next time. I thought I remembered the 5spd dribbling out fluid when removing the axle, but maybe I'm wrong. Is the 6spd special, or is this just any subie trans? If you do it on a lovely driveway or on 4 stands yeah you'll have some leak out, but if you just put the front air it will be fine. Both my cars have axles that go into the trans and I just lift the front and slam the axle job through. 6 speed is the same idea just fat.
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Mar 16, 2015 20:26
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when the axle seizes to the hub like that, it's hosed. I broke a 3 jaw puller just like that. Still need to fab up new steel arms for it. We used a harbor freight bench top press. Bent the loving press. In the end to get it out, we let it sit for a week facing up full of PB blaster. Then using a lady foot pry bar on the axle and a sledge hammer it came out. Oh and the wheel bearing was destroyed in this process.
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Jul 24, 2015 14:46
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Considering the MT cars didnt come with the oil warmer and they got rid of it on later model subarus... It will be fine without it.
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Oct 13, 2015 14:30
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| # ¿ Apr 24, 2024 18:50 |
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I love the first 10 minutes of a winter morning commute spent in horror and hoping the bad noises go away. It's part of the subaru charm.
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Oct 15, 2015 14:20
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