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aliencowboy posted:If you're looking for a film body to pack away in your bag as a secondary camera, buy an FM2. Small, light, fully manual, meters up to ISO 6400 and probably indestructible. Steve McCurry used one, so all your bad pictures with it are your own fault. The FM2 was, and probably still is, the preferred camera for mountaineering. Why? because it's all mechanical (with an independent meter as an afterthought), meaning no batteries to freeze in sub-zero mountain temperatures and revert to some crappy f/22 limp-along mode. Just know your Sunny 16 rule and you can shoot on Everest, nerds. The FM2 is better than the Pentax ME Super. There.
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Nov 20, 2012 20:48
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Leempi posted:I have to grab the pictures, I was just wondering what was going on. Stuff like that bugs me, it should be working. It's probably the auto-off timer on the camera shutting itself down to conserve battery. Using a card reader will eliminate this problem, and transfer photos faster. quote:D60 I don't think you should be too worried about transferring batteries from model to model. I'd be curious to see which batteries are compatible with which models, but for the most part, almost all the newer cameras use completely different batteries. Newer cameras are way better about battery life anyway. My D200 would drain 2 batteries in a day of shooting; the D700 goes through about 50% in the same amount of time. red19fire fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Nov 24, 2012 |
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Nov 24, 2012 19:35
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Lord Rupert posted:I am looking to do some more film long exposures, and I don't really want to burn through a bunch of batteries shooting in the cold. I guess I am looking for suggestions for some Nikon SLR along those lines. It would be just grand if it was either the 10 pin or the 'normal' shutter release. red19fire posted:The FM2 was, and probably still is, the preferred camera for mountaineering. Why? because it's all mechanical (with an independent meter as an afterthought), meaning no batteries to freeze in sub-zero mountain temperatures and revert to some crappy f/22 limp-along mode. Just know your Sunny 16 rule and you can shoot on Everest, nerds. The FM2 has a bulb mode, an input for the old wire-style remote release, and will survive the cold. One thing Nikon recommends is special oil for the shutter in sustained sub-zero temperatures, but it should be fine for once-in-awhile shooting in the cold. I think there's phone apps for calculation long exposures as well.
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Nov 29, 2012 18:10
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It would be neat as hell if you could send AIS lenses to Nikon and have them replace the old glass with new glass. The 85 1.4 AIS with all the new coatings would be incredible. E: People love the 85 1.8 AFD, and it's about $400. red19fire fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Apr 1, 2013 |
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Apr 1, 2013 19:31
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snuffles posted:Has anyone tried one of those Bresson split image screens in a D600/800? Not much in the way of reviews but they don't seem to be all that great, at least for the very few that there are. Unfortunately that seems to be the only choice in terms of split image screens. The green dot just isn't getting along with my old nikkors and missing focus by less than an inch is frustrating to say the least. I used to think my D7000 AF was faulty because I was missing focus constantly on the 85mm 1.4 AIS. It turns out that the widest aperture that Nikons will use in focusing is 2.8, so as long as the 2.8 DOF is focused, the green dot lights up. However, if your aperture is faster than that, it will open up the aperture upon shutter release, and the 1.4 DOF area falls where it may. It might be incorrect, that's how it was explained to me. What helps is to try to focus "front to back", so that the focus area moves towards the subject. My success rate went way up after I started doing that.
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Apr 10, 2013 14:02
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It's weird to explain. Using an AIS lens, i twist the focus so that the focal plane is in front of the subject, then gradually focus towards the subject until the green light comes on. So if you were looking at my focus scale, I turn it so it goes from 7' to 10' (with the subject at 10 feet); rather than 13' to 10'. When the lens stops up from 2.8 to 1.4, it's more likely to have the correct area in focus. I find this to be the better way of  where correct focus is on AIS lenses. I think K*Rock goes into detail on it somewhere on his site.
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Apr 10, 2013 16:35
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On the 85 1.4 AIS, I can twist the focus 1-2 degrees and still keep the green dot lit. It also has to do with how focal planes work. Since the area of best focus is about a third behind the front limit of the acceptable focus area, focusing "front to back" ensures that you're more likely to fall within the middle third where you'll get the best focus when the focal plane's depth halves going from f/2.8 to 1.4.   To continue on with Remo's explanation, as I understand it the AF module needs at least 2.8 to have enough contrast to tell whether or not something is in focus, and the focal plane at 1.4 is just too thin (less than a quarter of an inch for a portrait; you can have eyes in focus, but not eyebrows). There's also user error, if the subject breathes or you move the camera a tiny bit when you hit the shutter it can disturb the focal plane. Which is why I tend to spray'n'pray with super-fast lenses; on the LCD it might seem like it's in focus, but viewed properly in LR it might be just slightly OOF. Speaking of awesome lenses, does anyone have the 105mm or 135mm DC lenses? I would kill a man for one of them.
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Apr 11, 2013 07:10
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I think almost every brand new camera Nikon makes has this problem, they put too much oil on the shutter springs which tends to fleck off with use. I got a D7000 brand new when they first came out and I had to swab the sensor twice during a wedding, there were gobs of oil on it. Really the best advice is to get good at using Sensor Swabs, it takes about 5-10k shutter actuations until all the excess shakes off and is a good thing to know in general anyway. IIRC, people were sending their cameras out to Nikon for CLA's at like 2k actuations and I think Nikon just wiped the sensors and not the springs, since the lubricant has to last for 150k+. I think your best bet is to wait a few months for people to start putting mileage on their cameras. The FM test-charts-only crew and people deathly afraid of touching their sensors will get fed up and sell off their cameras. You'll be able to get a sweeter deal once they do.
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Apr 16, 2013 19:07
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Phanatic posted:Is there any such thing as a split-focus screen for the D600? Katzeye makes them, but not for the D600 yet. I have one for the D700, and it's okay, but I end up using AF with my AIS lenses anyway. I think I need to shim mine, because it's either off by a hair or my eyesight is horrible.
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Apr 23, 2013 15:58
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My AIS 85 1.4 gets some intense fringing when wide open, I think the 135mm f/2 is pretty much the same wide open, too, I'll see if I can dig up some samples.
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May 20, 2013 16:18
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Ag Bengip posted:The back focus problems of the 80-200/2.8 AF-D (two-touch version) with the D7000 are more severe than I had expected. If I was asked to take a head shot right now, I'd focus on the tip of their nose, and even that might not be enough. I've tried using the AF adjustment setting in the body, but this is far, far out of its range. My D7000 is still under warranty, so I've sent an e-mail to the retailer asking if they can calibrate it for me. Has anyone else had this type of adjustment done professionally? If so, what were the results? I have the same lens on a D700, and I took it to get CLA'd because of back focus. 80mm wasn't too bad, but 200 was godawful. I emailed Nikon service about it, they were pretty much useless. My local shop said that because it was the last of the pro film lenses before digital hit, it will always be a bit weird. It's something like the internal focus mechanism slightly moves the focal plane on the sensor/film as you zoom in and out. I got a split focus screen from Katzeye, it definitely helps, though I think I need to adjust the shims because the split-prism is very slightly off at correct focus.
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Jun 8, 2013 19:18
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Die Zombie Die posted:Thanks. I am very excited with it and can't wait to get different lenses. I had to go to LA to get it and when I finally got home to really get into it, I was overwhelmed with how much I have to learn. Your first lens purchase should be either the 50m or 35mm 1.8.
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Jun 20, 2013 17:09
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tijag posted:I have a D7k that I need to have sensor cleaned. It's nerve-wracking the first time. Get some sensor swabs, I think they're like :tenbux: for a 3 pack. They're soft and flexible and won't break anything if you follow the instructions. Open the shutter for cleaning in the menus, use a flashlight to look the obvious spots, and swipe a few times. Fire a test shot to see if you got it, and repeat as necessary.
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Jun 23, 2013 16:20
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8th-samurai posted:Uh...get a 70-200mm, an AI 135mm, or some variation thereof that fits your price range. We absolutely do not need more than one autofocus 135mm prime. The AI 135mm F/2 is awesome. I find myself shooting the 80-200 at 135mm a lot, so I'll take it out when I can afford to manually focus. Also I just realized that the focus is off on my 80-200, so I have to focus on the forehead or eyebrows to get the eyes in proper focus.
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Jul 26, 2013 18:28
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So I wanted to get a smallish flash that would work on my d700 and x100 as a fun 'party' flash to use when shooting events, and also fairly cheap. I thought an old vintage flash would work, but almost all of them have trigger voltages that would fry my cameras. Then I stumbled upon an sb-27 on ebay for like $50. Perfect, I thought; a small, unobtrusive flash. fuji x100 with sb-27 by Chris Hayden Photo, on Flickr 
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Oct 9, 2013 23:29
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Musket posted:SB400 works just fine on an X100. Most Nikon flashes will work fully manual on an X100 without issue. The best part is that the auto mode doesn't work on the d700 either  Its neat though, the vertical flash orientation makes a cool vignette effect.
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Oct 10, 2013 04:20
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Musket posted:The smart flash on the x100 is almost good enough in most club situations to not really need an external flash for anything within 6-10 feet pushed to +1 or +2 exp flash comp.  still have an old hot shoe sync cord in the closet.I don't think its a thyristor, it has an old version of TTL for film cameras that doesn't work on DSLR's. Minimum power is 1/16 though.
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Oct 10, 2013 17:42
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nielsm posted:Sure? Nikon has had a few different hotshoe connections. If it has one additional contact (apart from the center and ground) it just provides a "flash ready" signal for the camera. If it has two extra contacts I think it does "flash ready" and a very primitive kind of TTL; my SB-E has two extra contacts and a mode for the EM camera, I think it does some sort of TTL there and uses thyristor when in "FE/FM" mode. If it has 3 additional contacts it probably does full TTL in their old analog protocol. If it does, I haven't figured it out yet. It does do 'flash ready' on my fm2 and has 2 extra contacts, but for some reason A(uto) mode shoots at full power no matter what adjustments I make to flash exposure on the camera. The D700 can make it do rear sync, slow ambient and a kind-of red-eye mode, but no power adjustments. I'll be pumped if I can figure out how to make it do a -1 fill flash, but I don't think the camera communicates with the flash at all. According to Nikon, the 'primitive' TTL is D-TTL, and only late model film cameras (post-F4) and the d100/D2xx line had the ability to do it as a legacy mode, but they switched to i-TTL about the time they started making DSLR's. Either way, 1/4000 sync speed can't be beat  E: I think the thyristor or auto mode does work, I get the same histogram with the lights on or off in my apartment. Neat. Only way to get auto -1 is to set the flash to f/4 and the camera to 5.6. red19fire fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Oct 10, 2013 |
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Oct 10, 2013 19:19
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Musket posted:Non DC, Scrub. So I should hold on to my fm2 just in case? Wolf on Air posted:You're all wrong. Only a 50mm 1.8? Scrub. 1.4 for life.
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Oct 21, 2013 01:42
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Just gonna cross post this from the mirrorless thread:Startyde posted:Had no idea that that FM2 rumor was a thing. They'd have to cock up pretty bad for me not to switch back from MFT. Can't wait for this to come out. It's going to be  money with the D4 sensor, but if it's anything like the FM2 I (and a whole lot of other dweebs) will sell off a lot of stuff in a heartbeat. And I hope they sell a body-only kit, 50mm 1.4 only, scrubs (though the pancake 1.8E is also acceptable). Also, maybe they'll do a special program where you can trade in an old FM2 and get extra money, and they also tell you you're pretty cool and not a letdown to my parents.
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Oct 22, 2013 06:09
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http://feedly.com/k/1aoYicS Joe McNally got a preproduction DF to test in mexico, confirms there's no video, but handles pretty well despite all the buttons. But he's also sponsored by Nikon, so take it with a grain of salt.
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Nov 5, 2013 23:58
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Delivery McGee posted:My coworkers at the newspaper have FX cameras and are still using DX lenses. The vignetting of the 17-35mm DX lens can be quite nice when used properly. Seconding the AIS love. I've been dealing with this guy who is K*Rock's BFF, and I could see his brain overload when I revealed that I use the 85mm 1.4 AIS and 135mm f/2 AIS for portraits. '...But Rockwell says the AFD is the greatest lens ever produced! And the Sigma 85mm is just as sharp! DANGER TO MANIFOLD!'
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Dec 2, 2013 17:55
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Also she wants to switch to Leica now, so that should be interesting. Let her know that there is someone in the world that hates her guts on principle. The D800 is wasted on her. emotive posted:That's the thing. I shoot track/drift events but I do a lot more still car photoshoots than races and I'd like to get more into portraiture stuff so I think it'd be a worthwhile investment in the long run. If really necessary I could buy a lower end FF camera AND a 7D for far less than the cost of a 5D3 but if I went that route I'd definitely want to keep everything Canon for lens reasons. I'd also like to sell prints at some point, so there's that. I know I don't NEED full frame, just weighing my options. Is the 7d Canon's sports camera, or is that the 1d? I think you're right to go 5d2 for still cars/portraits and 7d for fast movers/long distance.
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Dec 5, 2013 18:58
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I'm hoping for a price drop on the Df soon, or for them to hit the used market. Then I'll have all matching cameras :3 x100, df, fm2.
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Dec 8, 2013 05:19
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nielsm posted:No way Nikon Df is getting a price drop. It has to be competitive with the Leica M Monochrom, you know. You're right. All the reviews I read predicted it wouldn't sell well since it only appeals to rich old men and K*Rock, not Real Photographers. My only real option is to mug the first person I see with one.
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Dec 10, 2013 22:53
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a foolish pianist posted:Nah, the 50/1.4 is FX and pretty expensive. The 50/1.8G is DX, cheap, and awesome - AF motor included. You can also go a generation older. The 1.4D is like $300, and the 1.8D is around $100. AF will work with the D7XXX, and will still work if you eventually upgrade to FF.
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Apr 26, 2014 17:23
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How often should I get a CLA done? I had one done on my d700 two or three years ago because the shutter was off, vignetting at 1/250 flash sync. Did a shoot on Saturday and saw that I have the same problem, vignetting at the bottom starting at 1/250. Isn't there a screw inside the mirror area that adjusts shutter tension? I feel like I can DIY this.
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May 22, 2014 06:48
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Nikon Rumors says there's going to be a D800s announced on the 26th. If it's true, get ready for a solid price drop on the d800
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Jun 16, 2014 16:57
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evil_bunnY posted:Literally the only things I mind about my d800 are the not-quite-magic AF and the form factor. I'm hoping against hope that the d810 drop will also dip the Df prices. A bad goon photographer can dream. E: vvv why? I want that d4 sensor, and the focus/green sensor problems of the d800 are a turnoff. red19fire fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jun 27, 2014 |
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Jun 27, 2014 15:56
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My venerable 35mm f2D finally developed the sticky aperture of death, and Nikon doesn't service these anymore. Can anyone recommend an independent shop that does repair this lens, or a decent replacement? I'm not opposed to going wider.
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Aug 9, 2014 06:00
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FISHMANPET posted:So, thoughts on Nikon flashes? The op says the SB-400 is pointless, but it looks pretty good to me if I just want something easy to do bounce flash. K-rock says the SB-300 is poo poo because it's not the SB-400, but the SB-400 may or may not be discontinued and thus harder to get. If you set it to bounce mode, you're bouncing off the ceiling. If you want to shoot vertically, you're now bouncing off a wall/person/empty space. SB-600/700 if you need TTL, any new yongnuo if you're fine with manual flash. Also the DF is baller as heck, awful ergonomics be damned. 
red19fire fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Sep 3, 2014 |
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Sep 3, 2014 00:22
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Nikon just announced the D750, sb-500 led flash, and 20mm 1.8.
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Sep 12, 2014 08:22
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Musket posted:I could point you to a forum that is happier than a pig in poo poo that they have a FX body that is a sequential number from the D700. They of course were very angry at the D800 and the D600/610 mathmatically was inferior to the D700 as a proper replacement. Pretty much. The D700 had the D3 'flagship' sensor in a stripped-down chassis. The D4 sensor is in the Df, which is fantastic but has all this weird misplaced retro design and is clunky as hell. The D800 is comically overpowered and 'out resolves' all but the most recent glass, but is still in the D700's relative price range. The D600/610 is in the sensor sweet spot comparable to the 5d3, but is missing a lot of the functionality that a professional wants, like an AF button. And then there's the DX lineup. To use Nikon is to compromise, somewhere.
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Sep 12, 2014 17:07
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JesusDoesVegas posted:To change the subject a bit, I've got a question about lenses! The 55-200mm is pretty garbage, but it's also cheap. The sweet spot is around f/8. I would go for a 135mm fixed, f2 if you can afford it.  Natural Violence 2 by Chris Hayden Photo, on Flickr
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Sep 14, 2014 07:44
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Musket posted:Personally id grab a Used-EX D700 and never look back. Put the extra money in to good glass. Since everything I shoot, sits still and I use tripods 90% of the time, it makes sense for me since ISO 200 is ISO 200 and I dont need giant gently caress off files. But thats just me. Musket posted:35-70 2.8 is a p.decent lens. Pretty inexpensive too. Good walk around length pair that with a couple of old AIS wider primes. I have this combo, ownage confirmed. Some dickwad on cl offered me 500 for the d700  I don't know why, but lowballer idiots in NJ lead their emails with insults.
red19fire fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Sep 17, 2014 |
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Sep 17, 2014 21:57
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1st AD posted:The AF-D 35-70 is pretty good and like $400ish? I got one for $150 but that was an insane deal, I think the ebay average is around $250-300 last I checked. SoundMonkey posted:Don't buy glass new unless it's so new that there's nothing on the used market. And even then, just wait until it hits the used market.
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Sep 30, 2014 01:39
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800peepee51doodoo posted:I know, its been going on for a while. This is just the latest. Its super funny watching the camera version of climate change denialists go on internet screaming fits about how dynamic range doesn't matter and only bad photographers need better sensors etc. I've probably mentioned this before, but camera forum pro-posters lose their poo poo over the dumbest thing. There was one where they were pissed about 'banding in the shadows' trying to recover 5 stops over or under in lightroom 4, therefore LR4 was a ripoff and moneygrab by Adobe. You might think, "hey idiot, try exposing correctly," and you'd be right. But there are also 'Facebook Pro' wedding photographers who bitch about extra workload from customers call them out when they 'accidentally' leave the camera on +/- 3 stops of exposure. Or shoot JPG's and gently caress up the white balance. Kenshin posted:The 85mm f/1.4 is amazing if you like setting money on fire WugLyfe posted:
The AIS 85mm 1.4 is a gift from the gods and *only* costs around $600. red19fire fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Oct 2, 2014 |
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Oct 2, 2014 02:38
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Jesus even the f/1.4D is over $1200
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8th-snype posted:No second body? Shooting all primes with one body at a wedding can be a little rough, was this they way you worked with Canons? I have been using primes exclusively for a long time and I wouldn't consider that unless it was a free gig or an emergency. I've shot a wedding with only a 50mm on a d7000. It sucks, but it's possible. Granted it was a small wedding for a friend, a larger wedding would be nightmarish. I have a 50mm 1.4D and 35mm 2D that I could be convinced to throw up on the sales forum
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Oct 2, 2014 17:28
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Miko posted:Also that extra stop. Or two Also having limited options means being forced to be creative with composition.
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Oct 5, 2014 17:53
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SoundMonkey posted:If you'll take my word for it, I sperged out hard on it, it's not the focus. The 80-200 2.8 is an amazing lens and a great option for anyone who wants that range of zoom on a budget, but it can't even step to the 180mm f/2.8 ED-IF. Mine always had terrible focus, I was told by the camera shop that it's because the 80-200mm is from the film era and doesn't play well with modern digital. It was loose in the mount, so I might just have had a bad copy. K*Rock also says 'professionals don't care' about the shortcomings of that lens, so 
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Oct 9, 2014 17:48
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