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Wasabi the J posted:My Subaru HK amp has preset crossovers, and I replaced the door woofers with coaxial speakers and of course the built in tweeters on the coax speakers don't do poo poo. I am not an expert, though I was a mobile electronics installer for several years 20 years ago. Call me an informed amateur. [*] Impedance really only relates to how much power the amp is able to deliver. It might affect sonic quality, but I don't think so. Using a sub as a mid should work, it just won't be optimized for it. Using a 4-ohm speaker in place of a 2-ohm one will generally just make it quieter at the same volume setting. It will not hurt the amp, BTW. Putting a 2-ohm speaker on an amp only rated for 4-ohm, on the other hand, can be adverse. [*] You may be able to EQ out the difference. Depends on the range of the EQ. [*] At that point, *I* would probably just replace the amp with an aftermarket one, but I will admit to having not done so in our 2003 Outback with the MacIntosh (Clarion) system. It hums a little with the aftermarket Alpine head. The Mac amps use Clarion's DIN plug rather than standard RCAs, and hate any head other than their own even if wired correctly. I do intend to replace it, but I need to find a 5-channel that will fit, or split up the amplification. [*] If you are careful and plan properly, making things look factory usually isn't too difficult. Really depends on how special snowflake the factory made what they used. [*] Depends on where the factory amp is (mine is under the passenger seat, for example, so not too terrible), I guess, and exactly how it's wired. There's no reason you can't use the factory speaker wires, for sure. Signal to the amp might require new RCA cables, depending on how they handle it.
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Sep 1, 2020 16:16
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harperdc posted:Quick question: do makes change the way their single (or double) DIN units fit regularly? I have a probably 15-year-old Alpine head unit in my car in the U.S. (CD and ability to plug in iPods with the old 30-pin connection, the install shop ran the wire to my glove box). I think we ordered that from Crutchfield and got the adapter, but if I ever want to upgrade (front USB alone would be nice) I was wondering if a newer Alpine would fit in the same adapter. Probably, although sometimes the wiring harness shape changes a bit. I remember having some that were really close, from the same manufacturer, but different. edit: I mean DIN sizes haven't changed. As long as you have the metal sleeve thing + hardware that comes with the new radio, it should work. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Sep 1, 2020 |
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Sep 1, 2020 20:06
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Darchangel posted:I am not an expert, though I was a mobile electronics installer for several years 20 years ago. Call me an informed amateur. Yeah did a bit more research, found a well reviewed component speaker set, with 2 6.5 coax and 2 6.5 mids and some tweeters (not using those), and a new sub. Apparently the front audio system is dual 6.5 woofers @ 2 ohms, and the dash are 2.75 "tweeters" @ 6 ohm, wired in parallel with the woofers, which brings overall impedance to 2 ohm, so hoping 2 x 4 ohm speakers won't be too much of a shift in the load for the amp. The new speakers are all 4 ohm, the sub is dual 2 ohm (like stock) and i'm gonna see how that stuff sounds in conjunction with the insulation I did this weekend; I may play with some new 3 inch full-range replacing the dash "tweeters" H/K Subaru installed -- they're just 2.75 full range speakers, but they do a lot of the lifting, because the front doors only have the woofers, and again, all the crossover points are pre-configured from somewhere in the chain, so I'm hoping that it should come out ok. I want to know how to put in and remove pins on harness plugs, and make a plug in adapter for an amp replacement, but currently I think I'll be ok with the stock "400W" amp. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Sep 1, 2020 |
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Sep 1, 2020 21:46
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There are a number of tools for removing pins. You can get a "key ring" of them from Banggood, Ali Express, etc. You may have to look closely at where the retainer is, and experiment with the tools a little. Up until pretty recently, I just used a combination of precision screwdrivers and pick tools ground out of the last section of a power antenna (they're stainless-steel rod, and we had plenty at the shop I used to work for from replacing masts with broken linear gear nylon.) Edit: These tools are what I'm talking about : https://www.banggood.com/59Pcs-Term...ur_warehouse=CN There are a whole bunch of varieties of collections of them. That particular one has some decent illustrations of how some of them are intended to work. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Sep 4, 2020 |
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Sep 4, 2020 00:15
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I need to make a little ISO adapter/harness like this: https://www.wish.com/product/5b351a...D_BwE&share=web except different than that. Really, I just need to swap two pins. Does anyone know where I can find essentially a little ISO patch cord, relatively quickly? I'm digging through random UK ebay listings at this point. This seems like it should be easy.
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Sep 15, 2020 14:49
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If you just need to swap 2 pins, why not de-pin those 2 and put them where you want them? You can sometimes pop them out with a simple paperclip or a pick. If not, you can get a de-pinning tool pretty cheap. Here's an example - I know you said you're in the UK, but Amazon UK probably has something similar.
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Sep 15, 2020 14:52
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STR posted:If you just need to swap 2 pins, why not de-pin those 2 and put them where you want them? Sorry, I'm in the US. I could de-pin it, but wanted to make no modifications to the OEM for the future, when I forget I did that.
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Sep 15, 2020 14:54
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Does anyone have any experience with BOSS audio head units? Crutchfields selection seems...limited, and a lot of head units are out of stock. I went to a brick and mortar car audio place and they said there's such a big backlog they wouldn't be surprised to see next year's models coming out early. BOSS seem to have a lot of features for the price, but I haven't heard much about them.
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Sep 16, 2020 11:20
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Boss is.... okay for low end stuff. They do offer a lot of features for the money, but don't believe for a second the wattage claims. It looks like their current lineup claims 80x4, I'd believe 15x4 from past experience with their amps. Their build quality isn't exactly great either. e: wow, Android Auto for $230 MSRP?
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Sep 16, 2020 14:15
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I bought a Chevy s10 that had am aftermarket amp (Alpine BBX-T600) in it. I'm not interested in stuff like that in this case, but would like to sell it. What's the easiest way to test so that it functions? Bring it inside the house and hook it up with a battery to speakers?
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Sep 16, 2020 15:45
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Captain McAllister posted:Does anyone have any experience with BOSS audio head units? Don't buy Boss, ever. They are the lowest quality, and most falsely rated products in the car audio market. Do not buy. I would trust a no name product bought from Alibaba before I would trust Boss.
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Sep 16, 2020 16:28
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STR posted:Boss is.... okay for low end stuff. They do offer a lot of features for the money, but don't believe for a second the wattage claims. It looks like their current lineup claims 80x4, I'd believe 15x4 from past experience with their amps. Eh, you can get a Pioneer with AA/CP for less than $300, although I guess they’re out of stock. Crutchfield just sent a promo email about it on Wednesday, so it sold out quick. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-qSFvD65rF3w/p_130DM1500/Pioneer-DMH-1500NEX.html?omnews=7742246
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Sep 16, 2020 19:40
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I got the Alpine iLX-W650 for my wife’s Subaru. It’s AA/CP and mechless. It’s $300 at Crutchfield and Sonic Electronix (where I got mine). You can even get a little piggyback amp that bolts to it making it the same depth as a “normal” double-DIN. Nice little unit. Edit: I went with it partially because I hate front USB ports. Can’t stand a cable hanging out of my radio like that, and I intend to use the CarPlay often.
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Sep 16, 2020 22:50
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Ok, I think I'm going to go for the Pioneer DMH 2660NEX. Has all the features I want, and seems a little more 'future proof'. I decided against a front USB port when I realized that you can get extension cables with two USB ports (one for data/charging and one for charging) that will replace a cigarette outlet. My Tacoma has 2 in the center console, one is tied up with a Bluetooth/FM transmitter because I'm still rocking a stock deck, and the other is occupied by my dash cam plug in (though you can get hardwired kits). I saw a Maestro RR in one of the videos I was checking out, and it seems cool to be able to have vehicle info show up as a screen on the head unit. However, my truck has minimal outputs (don't even have tpms), so for the money it would be a waste. I do like the Maestro SW unit, to be able to program second functions to the steering wheel buttons...
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Sep 20, 2020 03:41
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On my 2006 Xterra, I recently upgraded to this headunit https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DPX793B/Kenwood-Excelon-DPX793BH.html and I was thinking about replacing the factory speakers while installing an amp and sub. I've done some research, but the options out there are a bit overwhelming. It seems like each product hinges on a different product, so I'm a bit lost where to start. I need a pair of 6x9's, a pair of 6.5s and a 10" sub (maybe 12"), and an Amp that matches all those. I like good quality sound, and want my hearing to last. The Xterra isn't the quietest at freeway speeds, so something that sounds clear at louder volumes is also good. Where I get lost is the difference in the $60 6x9s vs the $120 ones and that the amp is dictated by the speakers, but the speakers are dictated by the amp? If someone could point me at least in the range of products I should be looking for that would help narrow it down. Edit: Looking at the price of 5-channel amps, I think the speakers are going to be un-amplified. This helps focus what I can get a lot more, I think. Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Oct 14, 2020 |
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Oct 14, 2020 21:35
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Most modern head units have a pretty reasonable amount of power, generally enough for standard speakers. Not too difficult to add later if the head just doesn't have enough "oomph" for you. If you want something cheap, reviewers have been pleasantly surprised with a couple Walmart Dual amps: Dual XPR84D CEA rated 80W x 4, $98 - meets rated power: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23CVp1nczoM Dual XPR82D CEA rated 80W x 2, $60 - exceeds rated power: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFBW9BLZ7RM Just use one of each, 4ch on the mains, and bridge the 2ch to the sub. I'm seriously considering same for my wife's Subaru, to replace the factory McIntosh (Clarion) amp that doesn't like the aftermarket head (it whines a bit.) I mainly need to make the sure the 4ch will fit under the seat where the Mac is.
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Oct 14, 2020 22:31
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The receiver speaker output is 22W RMS, which doesn't seem too bad, right? If I did amplify the speakers, I'd need to run new speaker wire, right? So that also becomes a much more complicated install, involving more interior removal? I think that definitely removes that option. As for the Sub, it looks like I can build a box to fit a single 12" a bit smaller than this pictured (two 10"), which should retain a bit more function in the cargo area. The box is estimated at 1.5 cubic feet, so smaller would work with a single 12"  There's 4 and 2 ohm versions of this https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R2SD412/Rockford-Fosgate-R2SD4-12.html?tp=111 and I feel like an idiot every time i try and do the math, but would that cheap amp work? If I'm reading the Crutchfield guide correctly, as these are Dual voice coil the 2ohm one would either be 1 ohm or 4 ohms, and the 4 ohm would be 2 ohms or 8 ohms. SO, if I'm not an idiot, the Dual XPR82D can do 240W 1-channel bridged at 4 ohms, so if I buy a the 12" 2 ohm, which wants 250w, I should be good? Out of curiousity, a 12" that's 250W vs a 10" that's 350W, which is louder/better? https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB1042S/Polk-Audio-DB-1042-SVC.html?tp=111 Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2020 02:07
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Deceptor101 posted:The receiver speaker output is 22W RMS, which doesn't seem too bad, right? If I did amplify the speakers, I'd need to run new speaker wire, right? So that also becomes a much more complicated install, involving more interior removal? I think that definitely removes that option. Yes, you would need to run new speaker wire at least up to the head unit location. You can disconnect the wires from the head, and connect the new wires to the exiting wiring from there, if you are using modest power and don't want to run all the way out to the doors, etc. The factory wiring is sufficient for the amount of power you would typically run to anything under 6-1/2", normally. quote:As for the Sub, it looks like I can build a box to fit a single 12" a bit smaller than this pictured (two 10"), which should retain a bit more function in the cargo area. The box is estimated at 1.5 cubic feet, so smaller would work with a single 12" You're reading it correctly. It's spelled out exactly like that on the "Details" tab. quote:SO, if I'm not an idiot, the Dual XPR82D can do 240W 1-channel bridged at 4 ohms, so if I buy a the 12" 2 ohm, which wants 250w, I should be good? Yes, you've got it right. Wire the two 2-ohm voice coils in series to get 4 ohms. FWIW, you can safely put a larger amp on the sub, you just adjust the gain so that it doesn't go into distortion or hit max travel at the max volume (or don't turn it all the way up, but who does that?), but matching RMS power to recommendations is insurance. "Recommended" power, if given, is usually more important, and buying a woofer that can handle higher power usually *requires* more power to begin with, due to the structure being beefier to handle that power, all else being equal. Not a hard and fast rule, but a possibility to be aware of. Given that the Dual amp actually hits its RMS rated power, that sub is a pretty good match. edit: if I'm talking out of my rear end, someone please correct me. My understandings may be old - it's been a while since I was actually in the car audio game. Strictly a consumer, now. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2020 19:42
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poo poo now IDK if I wired my sub into the stock wiring properly either lol
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Oct 16, 2020 19:53
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Hey so I have this Type R 12" DVC sub I've had for ages, and due to space concerns I had to put it into a sealed box about 1cu ft, which is suboptimal but I had to fit a pram behind it. I'm running it off a 400wrms pioneer class D monoblock, which is also suboptimal but it was cheap. It's wired up for 2ohm operation (2x4ohm voice coils) For a while, it's been making terrible noises if you turn it up past Mum Volume, but it works fine at lower volumes. Would a blown voice coil do this? They still fetch a pretty decent amount second hand so I'm probably gonna replace it with a cheap pioneer or kenwood for now but I'm wondering if there's anything I can do with it?
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Oct 18, 2020 02:40
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Looking to add a remote start to an 07 accord. Any recommendations or brands to avoid? No interest in adding any car alarm features. It seems like my options are hit a button and it starts but doesn't tell you (one way), same thing but it does tell you (2 way), and use your phone to start it. Is this correct? Start with my phone sounds cool but possibly a nightmare if the software is crap.
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Oct 18, 2020 12:59
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Don Dongington posted:Hey so I have this Type R 12" DVC sub I've had for ages, and due to space concerns I had to put it into a sealed box about 1cu ft, which is suboptimal but I had to fit a pram behind it. Hard to say, but bad noises are usually either mechanical (vice coil rubbing, or suspension/voice coil hitting the limits) or distortion, which could be from the amp being overdriven.
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Oct 19, 2020 20:04
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I guess it's remotely possible that the sub is running so far out of it's efficiency range in a sealed box that 400w@2ohms isn't cutting it, but I would have thought it would have started breaking up a fair bit louder than it is. When I had it in a slot ported box with that amp, it was just as loud as it was before the 1000w alpine thing it came with blew up. I guess I'll find a cheap sub for this box and keep an eye out for a slotted box or slap one together later.
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Oct 20, 2020 15:52
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Check the specs for the sub. You may be able to port the existing box if it’s close to the right size. There are a bunch of calculators online for that, or check the manufacturer’s documentation. The VX (house brand) sub I got from Sonic Electronix wanted a larger box than I had for sealed, but woke right up when I added a little port, even though the box was a little larger for ported than their recommendations. The calculators actually came up closer to the size I had - I assume their recommendations were based on a little different response.
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Oct 20, 2020 17:08
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At 2ohm the amp is likely struggling to control the woofer. I’ve had good experiences wiring dual voice coil subs in series as an 8ohm driver (vs in parallel for 2ohm), even tho it’s “less wattage” the amp has more control to make sure the cone goes where it needs to go. The term to look into is “damping factor”. In the home audio world, demanding speakers that get into low impedance (since impedance isn’t a constant) sound like poo poo if you don’t have a suitable amplifier.
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Oct 20, 2020 17:23
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My next plan was to play around with the wiring, make sure that it's not trying to run on one VC etc. The amp is supposed to be 1ohm stable but I recognize that's not definitive. It's a GM-D8601 which I've seen recommended in here a few times https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D8601
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Oct 22, 2020 23:52
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Darchangel posted:I got the Alpine iLX-W650 for my wife’s Subaru. It’s AA/CP and mechless. It’s $300 at Crutchfield and Sonic Electronix (where I got mine). You can even get a little piggyback amp that bolts to it making it the same depth as a “normal” double-DIN. Nice little unit. Hey there I'm hoping you can help me with a situation I got myself into helping a friend. He bought the ILX-W650 and the matching KTA-450 amp to go into his 2014 Nissan Maxima. He's already had 4 of 8 OEM speakers replaced with Alpine somethings by a shop and I'm going to replace 2 more with Alpine somethings he bought so the only OEM speakers that will be left are tweeters embedded in the windshield pillars. I offered to try and install all this for him because he is not good with $$$ and is effectively broke because he bought all this stuff (head unit, 2 speakers, associated extra part packs). I've personally replaced the head unit in my own car (no amp though) and had no issues with removing various trim panels, other plastic bits or the unit itself. I got the OEM wiring harness <-> radio adapter thing spliced together correctly by myself so I don't believe I'm totally incapable of doing this. One of the three main things that I'm having an issue with is confirming the wiring connection logic/path. From what I can tell from reading the amp's manual/YouTube vids is that the harness that plugs into the side of the amp is both an input and output at the same time. I believe it will go something like head unit wire harness -> input part of amp harness and then output side of amp harness -> adapter to connect to OEM wiring -> OEM wires ? I hope that's somewhat understandable ? Second is apparently this unit has to be connected to the parking brake wiring somehow in order to satisfy a safety switch in the unit so you can watch video files & it enables access to advanced settings. Lastly is the extras pack for the amp came with a 17 foot chunk of 12 ga. red wire that is apparently going to be the power line for it. As best as I can tell I'm going to have to make a hole in the firewall and hook it up to the positive terminal of the battery. If this is a correct assumption  , if not,  Any advice/instructions by anyone greatly appreciated. He bought all this stuff at Crutchfield, here is a PDF of the amp's manual that was linked in an order summary email they sent him (is this considered  ? If it is let me know & I will delete).https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20190404165500/Manuals/500/500KTA450.PDF MREBoy fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Oct 24, 2020 |
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Oct 24, 2020 07:35
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MREBoy posted:Hey there I'm hoping you can help me with a situation I got myself into helping a friend. He bought the ILX-W650 and the matching KTA-450 amp to go into his 2014 Nissan Maxima. He's already had 4 of 8 OEM speakers replaced with Alpine somethings by a shop and I'm going to replace 2 more with Alpine somethings he bought so the only OEM speakers that will be left are tweeters embedded in the windshield pillars. I offered to try and install all this for him because he is not good with $$$ and is effectively broke because he bought all this stuff (head unit, 2 speakers, associated extra part packs). I've personally replaced the head unit in my own car (no amp though) and had no issues with removing various trim panels, other plastic bits or the unit itself. I got the OEM wiring harness <-> radio adapter thing spliced together correctly by myself so I don't believe I'm totally incapable of doing this. I only have the head unit, and not the amp - I'm using a Subaru McIntosh/Clarion factory amp, currently - but it's a normal amp, just compact with bracketry to attach to the head. The big plug on the amp is indeed input and output, but speaker level inputs. You won't need those inputs for your install. The iL-W650 has RCA/line level outputs for outboard amps, so you will use those and the RCA/line level inputs on the amp. Figure 4 page 9 of that PDF. You will not use the speaker outputs on the head unit, either. I like using adapters to OEM wiring, to avoid cutting factory wires. In this case, you'll need the power wires from the adapter to go to the head unit, and the speaker wires to go to the amp, and at least the remote wire to go to both, most likely. Yes, you will need to run the heavy gauge wire through the firewall, properly grommetted, (and fused at the battery, please) to the amp. Yes, the head unit has to be connected to the grounding switch for the parking brake to allow the display to be used for video and more advanced menu options. You have to pull the handbrake three times to unlock it. There are devices available on the internet that automatically do that every time the ignition is cycled. I have no idea what the legality of those is. Do yourself a favor: read both manuals all the way through before doing anything. There should be PDFs of the head unit manual online, too. From Alpine, if not Crutchfield. edit: http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM_iLX-W650_EN.pdf The amp manual at Alpine (little different format): http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM_KTA-450.pdf Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Oct 26, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2020 20:31
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Don Dongington posted:My next plan was to play around with the wiring, make sure that it's not trying to run on one VC etc. The amp is supposed to be 1ohm stable but I recognize that's not definitive. Make sure you're not having the speaker wire slapping the cone inside the enclosure too. Possible seal between the sub and the box is leaking as well. Or the terminal cup if you used one. If you used binding posts then you can scratch checking that.
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Oct 27, 2020 22:23
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So - I'd like some sound in my old cars. In the past I've restored the vintage radios, but my patience is wearing thin on them, I've restored 2 radios to factory spec with aux inputs and they've both failed. I have been looking for a solution that fits my insanity - ive been using a little jbl bluetooth speaker thing, but it honestly sucks and I'd really like to have nicer tunes in these cars. the entire system needs to be hidden and completely controlled by my phone - I'd love to put the unit under the seat to avoid going under the dash:  I don't have much room in package trays, and I'd really like for the speakers not to be seen at all, as in under perforated fabric - in my station wagon, there is no package tray at all. another thing is that the only place for front speakers would be in the kick panels, because I don't want to cut in to the vintage door panels. honorable mention: both of my cars are 12v and charged by antiquated generators, not alternators, one of them I converted from 6v, so thats coveredish.... another note is that I basically listen to music that your grandparents listened (20s - 50s) to as well as 80s-00s gangster rap - no heavy audiophile requirements although a small sub maybe be kind of fun. I think the weirdest requirement would be that I would love to have an on/off/volume knob that can be hidden on the dash somewhere. I dont need any real controls, screens or hands free phone. I really I've seen a few units that kind of fit the bill but this kenwood is the only one that is a name brand - im not thrilled that the volume up down are buttons and not a knob. https://www.kenwood.com/ca/car/marine/kac-m1824bt/ the price is super reasonable https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-1177...03840801&sr=8-3 as far as speakers are concerned, I think I could do 2x 6.5" in the kick panels and maybe 2 6x9's in the back of the wagon and for my 48, there is one giant hole cut in the package tray. I'd love your guys input on this.
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Oct 28, 2020 00:33
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I don't know what will work best for you, but I'd suggest calling Crutchfield and see what they suggest fits your use case.
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Oct 28, 2020 00:45
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LobsterboyX posted:So - I'd like some sound in my old cars. In the past I've restored the vintage radios, but my patience is wearing thin on them, I've restored 2 radios to factory spec with aux inputs and they've both failed. I have been looking for a solution that fits my insanity - ive been using a little jbl bluetooth speaker thing, but it honestly sucks and I'd really like to have nicer tunes in these cars. I'd suggest something like this: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZNWfK...5YaAlvCEALw_wcB Or this: https://www.classiccarstereos.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwit_8BRCoARIsAIx3Rj7hax0tzyg7N7nKRj9PZD4gvfYpsEbwhg1kGCwM-MYGtcEaITFScbkaAqpaEALw_wcB Retro style and fitment with modern internals. The second link has hidden audio options.
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Oct 28, 2020 02:53
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LobsterboyX posted:I think the weirdest requirement would be that I would love to have an on/off/volume knob that can be hidden on the dash somewhere. I dont need any real controls, screens or hands free phone. I really I think youre on the right track with looking into amps with built-in bluetooth so you don't have to mess with your dash. I like the Kenwood you found. Some things to think about : -Amps typically rely on a 12v signal to turn on and off so you may not need a knob to turn off the amp like you would a regular car radio. However since your cars are older you might want the control to turn off the amp when you want to instead of it coming on when the car has ignition on. -I'm curious if the remote with that amp would adjust volume on the amp or if it would just adjust volume on whatever source is connected over bluetooth. If it adjust volume on the bluetooth source you could look into a bluetooth volume knob and have your phone connect to both. -Some amps have wired remotes for controlling the gain levels. Its not quite the same a volume control but maybe you could use one and make it work for you. https://www.sonicelectronix.com/ci46-amplifier-bass-level-remotes.html
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Oct 28, 2020 03:20
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Here's my old school install I just finished up on my Tundra. I was into car audio back in the 90s and early 2000s. This build is a simpler nod to the competition setup I had back then. Sony Mobile ES XR-C900, XE-744, XDP-210EQ Infinity Kappa 102a amps Infinity Beta 12 Infinity Beta Five and One front stage.                  
Scrapez fucked around with this message at 07:44 on Oct 28, 2020 |
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Oct 28, 2020 07:32
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Holy poo poo, that's straight out of the 90's. Love it!
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Oct 28, 2020 14:26
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Coredump posted:Make sure you're not having the speaker wire slapping the cone inside the enclosure too. Possible seal between the sub and the box is leaking as well. Or the terminal cup if you used one. If you used binding posts then you can scratch checking that. I had a test box that absolutely sounded awful, despite being the correct size, etc. Turned out my carpentry was less than stellar, and all the bad noise was the air farting out of the imperfect joints. A bit of silicone verified that the box was the correct size, so I could then build one that actually fit int he car properly. LobsterboyX posted:So - I'd like some sound in my old cars. In the past I've restored the vintage radios, but my patience is wearing thin on them, I've restored 2 radios to factory spec with aux inputs and they've both failed. I have been looking for a solution that fits my insanity - ive been using a little jbl bluetooth speaker thing, but it honestly sucks and I'd really like to have nicer tunes in these cars. There are literally dozens of small Chinese amps that are designed to run off of 12V, and have a bluetooth connection, as well as SD cards and FM. They're generally small enough to be mounted a lot of places. There are also some that are just a faceplate, whether it be round, square, or standard DIN that do the same thing. A lot of the odd-sized ones are intended for marine use, and the head fits in a typical gauge-sized hole. For more reputable stuff, Custom Autosound, for example, has hidden systems for classics. https://customautosoundmfg.com/product/universal-radios/hideaway-radio https://www.classiccarstereos.com/secretaudio-sst.html https://www.vintagecarradio.com/hideaway-radios.html Here's a neat option for an in-dash replacement unit: https://www.retromanufacturing.com/collections/build-your-own-radio Also, these conversion modules: https://www.vintagecarradio.com/stereo-conversions/stereo-conversions/btu-2-5-bluetooth-usb-mp3-adapter/ Speakers: you would just have to assess where you can put stuff, and then possibly fabricate custom grills - not that difficult, really, especially for a decent shop.
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Oct 28, 2020 20:22
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Darchangel posted:There are literally dozens of small Chinese amps that are designed to run off of 12V, and have a bluetooth connection, as well as SD cards and FM. They're generally small enough to be mounted a lot of places. There are also some that are just a faceplate, whether it be round, square, or standard DIN that do the same thing. A lot of the odd-sized ones are intended for marine use, and the head fits in a typical gauge-sized hole. This kind of dingus is what I mean about the Chinese amp: https://usa.banggood.com/LEORY-G8-D...ur_warehouse=CN edit: and those Kenwood BT marine amps are neat. Here's the whole category @ Crutchfield: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-9lDowM6vrHO/shopsearch/hideaway_car_stereo.html edit 2: here's a cheap Pyle 4-channel BT amp: https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Bluetooth-Marine-Amplifier-Receiver/dp/B00WR6ZX4I/ Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Oct 28, 2020 |
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Oct 28, 2020 20:28
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Any suggestions as to how to get through the firewall in a reasonable fashion ? Apparently this car may have an already made opening somewhere behind or above the glove box that goes into the engine compartment, so I will be removing the box first off & poking around when I actually get the install started. I even got a reel of fishing tape to make this a bit easier. If I can't get the wire through I'm gonna abort & try to figure something out. Speaking of power I was checking the wires that come with the amp and the head unit and they each have their own individual 12 ga. looking size power lines. Is twisting together all three & then using the biggest wire nut I can find going to be ok ? I don't have or even really know how to use a soldering iron. Along those lines I got a box of butt splices & a crimper because I'm not inclined to play games with black tape. Decided to put in the last set of speakers as a separate job, it was fairly easy. Only had a minor issue with the speaker adapters because I sort of forgot that since these things are for a large group of different vehicles that there would possibly be bits of plastic to snap off in order to get the speaker mounted right.
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Oct 28, 2020 22:14
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Coredump posted:Make sure you're not having the speaker wire slapping the cone inside the enclosure too. Possible seal between the sub and the box is leaking as well. Or the terminal cup if you used one. If you used binding posts then you can scratch checking that. Update: I grabbed a second hand 400w/4ohm Pioneer and it basically sounds the same so it's either the box leaking or being a weak POS; the amp; or the fact that the box is 1cu ft and sealed and the amp just not having enough watts to drive those subs in an undersized sealed box. I guess I'm going to have to break out the router and table saw after all.
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Oct 29, 2020 14:19
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MREBoy posted:Any suggestions as to how to get through the firewall in a reasonable fashion ? What car is it? A common tactic is drill thru the firewall where the clutch master cylinder would have been if your car is an automatic but also came in a manual transmission model too. quote:Speaking of power I was checking the wires that come with the amp and the head unit and they each have their own individual 12 ga. looking size power lines. Is twisting together all three & then using the biggest wire nut I can find going to be ok ? I don't have or even really know how to use a soldering iron. Along those lines I got a box of butt splices & a crimper because I'm not inclined to play games with black tape. No wire nuts please in car audio. Crimp connectors should work for the connections behind the radio. Power wires for amp shouldn’t need any sort of wire nut connection as the power wire goes from battery thru a fuse holder to the amp.
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Oct 29, 2020 16:36
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