|
Captain Log posted:
I have a Kicker 8" powered sub that works just fine for my application. It's not cheap, ($300) and it won't rattle windows, but the thing puts out clean sound and meshes well with the front and rear speakers (running off the headunit). The controls are complete and it comes with a little wired Q-bass controller which fits under the headunit without sacrificing what little storage space is there. My primary concern was packaging. The vehicle is a single cab Dodge Ram and I couldn't justify eating up space behind the seats. Under the driver's seat was a no-go due to electronics, so under the passenger's seat was the only place to put anything without building a center console box (something I also couldn't justify). Installation was fairly simple, with all parts included in the box. Found a plug through the firewall to run a fuzed 12v cable, ran RCA inputs from the headunit to the sub wiring harness, and ran the remote control line back along the other wires. The wiring harness runs perfectly under the carpet, under the plastic floor trim, and behind the blower box back up to the headunit. One of the tire kit's hold-down screws provided a ground very close to the sub. The sub itself is provided with straps and brackets to secure it to the vehicle, but I used wood to make a "bracket" that fits between the seat rails (read: shoved enough scrap in there that it can't move). I mention installation because you might not be able to easily get into the smaller spaces your little car has. It's a pretty easy job though. Routing wires takes up most of the time. Bass controller location:  Sub under the seat with some wood blocks removed, wires and sub pulled out to show what's there:  gently caress yeah! Found a lighter!
|
#
?
May 22, 2023 22:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 04:33 |
|
|
everdave posted:They rename these random names, but I bought a couple of these at once and I’ve been pulling them out of boxes and installing them and they are fine. I didn’t pay $30 though more like $18-20. I’m sure they are on ali as well Got it... not sure I want to toss one of those into something I intend keeping long-term. I've had pretty good experiences with my Excelon in my A4; I'll wait until the cars come in to take a look and see what makes sense / if there's even a trim adapter available for it. e: honestly something like this looks dated 'just enough': https://www.amazon.com/VDO-Continental-TR7412UB-European-Bluetooth/dp/B08D2R48HZ or https://www.retromanufacturing.com/collections/retrosound-grand-prix-radio/products/1980-84-bmw-6-series-grand-prix-din-radio. e2: Basically this: https://www.thedrive.com/news/39915/it-shouldnt-be-this-hard-to-find-a-period-looking-stereo-for-my-1991-toyota-mr2-turbo but for a SW20. Or the transplant guts option. movax fucked around with this message at 23:48 on May 22, 2023 |
|
#
?
May 22, 2023 23:44
|
|
|
Of course vdo used to be good $160 seems Cheap for that brand these days if it’s not Chinese now. You can usually change the colors to anything you want on the cheap junk. Orange green blue whatever
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2023 23:50
|
|
|
DrChu posted:I'm hoping I can customize the home screen a little just to remove the stuff we won't use like XM Radio. You can't, and that annoys me ever so much. quote:The little pinhole mic on the front next to the screen is a little weak, but it does include an external mic to plug in that I didn't feel like find a place for so I'm not using it yet, possibly ever. I ran the mic to the factory mic location on our 2003 Outback, but there's no reason you can't stick it, say on the top of the steering column trim to make an easy cable run. everdave posted:They rename these random names, but I bought a couple of these at once and I’ve been pulling them out of boxes and installing them and they are fine. I didn’t pay $30 though more like $18-20. I’m sure they are on ali as well They are! edit: movax posted:Got it... not sure I want to toss one of those into something I intend keeping long-term. I've had pretty good experiences with my Excelon in my A4; I'll wait until the cars come in to take a look and see what makes sense / if there's even a trim adapter available for it. I knew about the Continentals, but that Retrosound Grand Prix is nice! For even *more* vintage, they have the Europa, which looks like a vintage Becker: https://www.retromanufacturing.com/collections/retrosound-europa-radio/products/1977-80-bmw-6-series-e24-europa-radio
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2023 00:03
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:You can't, and that annoys me ever so much. Through some searching I found a way to remove the XM icon, but I cannot find any sort of crossover/filter options. https://www.reddit.com/r/ATOTO/comments/ywgwr9/atoto_f7_secret_menu/ After changing these settings the system did an unexpected boot cycle and I had to reteach it all the steering wheel controls, but the XM icon is now gone.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2023 02:24
|
|
|
DrChu posted:Through some searching I found a way to remove the XM icon, but I cannot find any sort of crossover/filter options. Interesting. I'll try that. I want that and the Android Auto button gone. Just need BT and CarPlay. Like some of the other commenters, I'd *really* like the ability to adjust relative source volumes. Radio is WAY louder than CarPlay, for example. I could do that with the previous Kenwood.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2023 22:04
|
|
|
The original CD player in my 2013 VW Jetta no longer ejects so I'm looking at replacing the stereo with something a bit more modern. I also figure that while I'm replacing the stereo, I might as well put in a backup camera. I've been eying the Kenwood DDX396, and for the backup camera probably something basic like the this one from Amazon. Crutchfield helpfully suggests a variety of additional things I might need, but I'm not sure if these are all relevant. Any help here would be appreciated! 1. Axxess XSVI-9003-NAV Interface Harness - I guess this is needed to connect the stereo to VW's specific hardware? 2. Metra 40-EU56 Antenna Adapter - required to connect the stereo to the radio antenna, which I would need since I often listen to FM radio. 3. Scosche CRTVW01 Backup Camera Harness - says "Retain the factory backup camera when installing a new car stereo in select 2011-14 Volkswagen vehicles". Since my car doesn't have a backup camera and I would be installing a third party one, would I need this? The Kenwood Excelon appears to have a connection for back-up cameras, and it looks like pretty much any camera I get will have a cable and connection that should work, right? On #1 and #2, I'm guessing the Kenwood Excelon doesn't come with plugs that would connect with the antenna or to VW specific connections, so that's why I would need those.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2023 04:28
|
|
|
Quick Question - My Spark has a double DIN aftermarket receiver. If I purchase a new one with a free install somewhere, I'm cautioned that I'll still need to pay for the parts for hook it up. Would I need a new set of whatever the parts are called to install the new receiver? Or would the old one suffice? Also, my steering wheel controls don't work for poo poo. If I press them, they do stuff. It's just all wrong. Would that be an extra part? Or is it just wired incorrectly?
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2023 16:39
|
|
|
You will need some parts. An adapter kit so the radio can be installed in your dash is likely, but you will definitely need a wiring harness. As long as they aren't charging ridiculous prices, that's completely normal.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2023 20:33
|
|
|
You shouldn't need anything new if you already have a deck in there, but I wouldn't be surprised if they make you pay for it anyways.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2023 20:43
|
|
|
If you already have an aftermarket stereo, all of the install parts are there, although I can see a shop not wanting to reuse the wiring harness.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2023 00:16
|
|
|
Awesome, I appreciate the help. My main reason for not doing the receiver myself is wanting the steering wheel controls to work, and knowing that could take some loving around. I'm absolutely capable of ordering a wiring harness from Crutchfield and doing it myself. But with "FREE INSTALL!" being offered pretty much everywhere with a receiver, I might as well let someone other than myself dick with it. I've done multiple receivers on my own, but these have all been of the extremely basic variety. I have little patience for the level of set-up required of these fancy-pants head units. If wherever I go is smart about it, they'll cut me a deal on getting a sub put in. If there isn't a financial benefit, I'll do the receiver on its own, then do the sub separately to space out the cost.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2023 12:13
|
|
|
My boat currently has four speakers, I want to add two more and an amp. Does that mean I'll need a 6 channel amp?
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2023 17:49
|
|
|
Depends. You can run speakers off of the head unit's internal amp while still utilizing the external amp for other speakers. I run a 4-channel amp with 2 channels powering the sub and two channels powering the front speakers, with the head unit powering the rear speakers in my Crown Vic. It works fine. Factory speakers in the rear deck, basically just used for fill.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2023 18:01
|
|
|
Most normal amps are also 2 ohm stable so even if you did want to run everything off a external amp, you could pair up 2 speakers on the same channel and just use a 4 channel. You would lose the ability to fade/balance between the paired up speakers but that might not matter to you.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2023 19:51
|
|
|
empty baggie posted:If you already have an aftermarket stereo, all of the install parts are there, although I can see a shop not wanting to reuse the wiring harness. Listen to this guy, not me who read and responded way too fast.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2023 22:03
|
|
|
Thanks guys, that gives me a few more options.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2023 23:57
|
|
|
I have a 2019 Audi RS5 Sportback with the B&O Premium system. I'd like to upgrade the subwoofer. I was looking at the JL Audio 10W6V3-D4 and I have a sealed box of the right size to go along with it. For the amplifier, I was thinking of the Wāvtech Link500.1 mini as it'll do 500W at 2 ohms. I like the Kicker KEY500.1 with it's automatic DSP but it only does 300W at 2 ohms. Someone suggested the JL Audio VX600/1i (it'll do 600W at 2ohms) but that seems a bit overkill for me with all the custom tuning functionality (unless there's an automatic mode).
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2023 15:05
|
|
|
Mr. Apollo posted:I have a 2019 Audi RS5 Sportback with the B&O Premium system. I'd like to upgrade the subwoofer. I was looking at the JL Audio 10W6V3-D4 and I have a sealed box of the right size to go along with it. For the amplifier, I was thinking of the Wāvtech Link500.1 mini as it'll do 500W at 2 ohms. I like the Kicker KEY500.1 with it's automatic DSP but it only does 300W at 2 ohms. Someone suggested the JL Audio VX600/1i (it'll do 600W at 2ohms) but that seems a bit overkill for me with all the custom tuning functionality (unless there's an automatic mode). Lowclock fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Jun 1, 2023 |
|
#
?
May 31, 2023 21:30
|
|
|
Mr. Apollo posted:I have a 2019 Audi RS5 Sportback with the B&O Premium system. I'd like to upgrade the subwoofer. I was looking at the JL Audio 10W6V3-D4 and I have a sealed box of the right size to go along with it. For the amplifier, I was thinking of the Wāvtech Link500.1 mini as it'll do 500W at 2 ohms. I like the Kicker KEY500.1 with it's automatic DSP but it only does 300W at 2 ohms. Someone suggested the JL Audio VX600/1i (it'll do 600W at 2ohms) but that seems a bit overkill for me with all the custom tuning functionality (unless there's an automatic mode). Are you interested in alternatives and/or saving money? Nothing wrong with JL, they're great. But I've been crazy about Sundown Audio for a while, and I have their budget sub in that watt range that I'd put up against anything. They really punch above their price point (all their subs do). You can also spend the same money as the JL on them but get dramatically tougher as well. They're basically a no bullshit power handling sub. In this video they torture test one at 1x, 1.5x and 2x rated power continuous. And this is their second cheapest model, he says $139 but that price is out of date, they're $189 as I write this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6XhP2CJRsQ I have it in my wagon cargo area and it sounds fantastic, no noise or secondary venting sounds or anything. Just music. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Jun 1, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2023 20:46
|
|
|
Yeah I'd honestly say get an Ultimax 10" instead and you'd never notice the difference but people eat with their eyes and it's not my money to care about.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2023 21:18
|
|
|
I’m not set in the JL, it’s just what was recommended. Thanks for the suggestions, I’ll check those out.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2023 18:34
|
|
|
Alright, AI. I finally found a shop that didn't give me major sleaze vibes with a salesperson nice enough we ended up talking baseball for a while. I'll probably use them. But I'm a little town between the options I got quoted, and would also like a sanity check on the pricing. Here is what's in my car - --------------- ~ 2013 Chevy Spark ~ Pioneer AVIC-NEX6000 Head Unit (from 2013 or some poo poo) ~ two 3x3 Kicker front speakers installed myself (Kicker 47KSC404) ~ two 6x4 Kicker rear speakers installed myself (Kicker 47KSC4604) -------------- Here's what I listen to - A bunch of rap, techno, and other bass heavy poo poo -------------- Here's the options I quoted out, both with $225 of the cost being their installation. $1024 - Kicker 10 inch, low profile sub that faces down in the trunk with another big speaker looking thing that I'm forgetting the name for, with an amp, wiring, bass knob, etc. Would take up space, but facing downwards would help alleviate that poo poo. $629 - Kicker 10 powered sub, which would go under the passenger seat. I'm not looking to rattle my windows or blow out my eardrums. I also don't want to completely overpower the already puny speakers I'm stuck with in the front and back. That said, I'm leaning towards the powered sub, even if it's not going to be as beefy. Thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2023 22:43
|
|
|
That just seems like a lot of money these days to bump in a Spark, I know you are limited to what you can do yourself bc of mobility.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2023 23:34
|
|
|
everdave posted:That just seems like a lot of money these days to bump in a Spark, I know you are limited to what you can do yourself bc of mobility. Yeah, I’m paying about $225 (within those listed prices) for an install. It blows, but I’m not running cable with my legs. But the Sparks speakers are loving pitiful for a car I’m going to drive forever.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2023 01:52
|
|
|
Captain Log posted:Thoughts? E: Oh I see you posted before I finished typing. If it's included in that $629 package that seems like a pretty reasonable deal since those are like $300 and then wiring and stuff. They are pretty weak tho so I'm still curious what's in the other package. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Jun 10, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2023 02:07
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:Did they actually write this stuff up? I'm not sure if that $225 install is included in those other prices, or what parts are in the $1024 package. gently caress me, we even wrote down the dimensions of the individual boxes and poo poo without listing the exact products. Let me see if I can find them on Crutchfield, but I'll call the dude later and get the exact models - I'm about 99% sure this was the Under-The-Seat option - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646HS10/Kicker-46HS10.html Plus wiring poo poo and I think a flat 225 install. I believe this was the bigger option - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20649PTRT0/Kicker-49PTRTP10.html With a their prices - - $299 Kicker Sub - $279 Kicker Amp - $225 Flat Install on sub - $39 Bass Volume Knob + $16 Install - $129 Fancy Pants Wiring, with the option of going with a cheaper $65 wiring package He wrote down the parts numbers, I just don't have a reference. I'm basically looking at about $629 vs. $985 - $1030ish. I will drive this car until it explodes, and I want good sound. I will eventually upgrade the head unit, too. But I don't want a sub that overpowers my puny speakers, if that's a thing.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2023 17:06
|
|
|
For what it's worth, this shop has a lifetime warranty on any work they do. Not sure how standard that may or may not be, but I don't think I'd get that at Best Buy for free. They are less than two miles from my place, so I like that peace of mind if something shits itself. God, I wish I could just do this myself. I've never paid an audio shop for work before, but I know I'd be physically in over my head trying to do this myself.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2023 17:12
|
|
|
I mean if those are the crutchfield prices I guess the $600 option installed is ok. If you are paying someone and it’s going to make you happy go for it. That $300 for a powered sub seems high to me but I trust crutchfield. Hope it works out like you want
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2023 18:29
|
|
|
everdave posted:I mean if those are the crutchfield prices I guess the $600 option installed is ok. If you are paying someone and it’s going to make you happy go for it. That $300 for a powered sub seems high to me but I trust crutchfield. Hope it works out like you want On the power option, I'm admittedly looking at the nicest one in the store. They have cheaper ones that match up pretty close to Crutchfield prices. But I keep hearing some people say even the best is underpowered. The one requiring the separate amp and everything is all about space, which is hugely limited in a Spark. But my worry is less price, and more turning my car into nothing but a bass box. I still want to be able to hear my music. For me, this is a big purchase. But music is such a huge part of my life, I don't want literally every time I'm listening to something to involve cringing at the weak as gently caress bass. Also frantically turning down bassy songs so I don't clap out my speakers is a thing. $600ish and fitting under my seat would be preferable, but $1k for the right option is doable if it's in a car I'll drive forever.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2023 21:43
|
|
|
I wouldn't worry about either option being overpowering, even with those relatively small mid-ranges on head unit power. You can always turn something down if it's too loud, but if it's not enough and you turn it up too far it starts sounding bad and breaking stuff. If you really value the space then I guess you don't have much of a choice. If you could build a box and install it yourself or get someone else to do it you could get a LOT more for your money, but sometimes that just isn't an option.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2023 23:33
|
|
|
I had 2 12” subs in an up firing box under the back seat of my truck, and I replaced it with 2 10” subs in a down-firing box (same amp for both boxes) and the down-firing box ended up sounding much better. The difference in power between your options and considering your music tastes makes me think you should go with the more expensive option. You mentioned you’re having a bass knob installed, which is going to allow you to easily adjust the bass so it doesn’t overwhelm the other speakers. I’m sure the cheaper option would sound fine, but I think you would enjoy the other one more. Plus, if at some point down the road you decide to replace it, you could get a custom box or whatever without having to purchase and wire a new amp.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 07:06
|
|
|
empty baggie posted:I had 2 12” subs in an up firing box under the back seat of my truck, and I replaced it with 2 10” subs in a down-firing box (same amp for both boxes) and the down-firing box ended up sounding much better. Yeah, I think I'm leaning that way. I also haven't done any haggling on the price yet, so I think I can get it down a little bit paying cash. I literally have money saved from when I bought the car, having planned from the get-go to put in a good system. One more question - I purposely had the quote done with all the "nice" options, which were obviously more expensive. I was shown the various wiring kits and cables, and the quote had some fancy-pants brand wiring kit for the sub that was $129. But there was an alternative for $65. I grew up in Nashville and used to play a lot of music. Had a music industry job, had a friend whose Dad mastered Grammy winning albums, and all sorts of poo poo. I always remember expensive cables being a loving ripoff, like MONSTER brand. Is paying double for the wiring kit worth it in this case? Or is it "audio experts swear these sound better for reasons" hokum?
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 13:11
|
|
|
Copper is copper. The difference in quality, if any, is not worth double IMO. I say save a few bucks where you can.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 13:56
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:Copper is copper. The difference in quality, if any, is not worth double IMO. I say save a few bucks where you can. I think the $129 kit would be one of these. But after doing some googling, I think I'll stick with the cheaper kit. I don't really know what advantage going with a branded install kit would do for my modest needs. https://www.kicker.com/amplifier-install-kits Like I mentioned, I straight up told the guy to just quote the nicer option, knowing I could talk to y'all and adjust down per recommendations. As always, you've all been an invaluable resource for my dumb rear end.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 17:40
|
|
|
Hard to tell without actual part numbers, but the cheaper kit might be copper clad aluminum wire. At this level of power it shouldn't really matter as long as it's sized and installed correctly.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2023 21:14
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:Hard to tell without actual part numbers, but the cheaper kit might be copper clad aluminum wire. At this level of power it shouldn't really matter as long as it's sized and installed correctly. I am almost certain that was the difference. Copper was something that was said.
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2023 04:25
|
|
|
I did it. Holy gently caress, I literally don't know how I went my whole adult life without a real system. I'm grinning like an idiot and finding excuses to drive everywhere. That said, is there a way to keep your rearview mirror from vibrating so aggressively?  ( Serious question, though )
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2023 11:43
|
|
|
Captain Log posted:I did it. Holy gently caress, I literally don't know how I went my whole adult life without a real system. I'm grinning like an idiot and finding excuses to drive everywhere. There's usually a hidden bolt to tighten. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXFqyo5Ma-g https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZlCciZR9Mc
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2023 21:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 04:33 |
|
|
Wasabi the J posted:There's usually a hidden bolt to tighten.  Will check it out. I'm still loving giddy. I've gone my whole life going from lovely car to lovely car with systems cobbled together from poo poo. This? It's nice.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2023 04:16
|
|