|
There was sort of a misinformation thing going around a while ago where people were talking about having too little power for speakers and blowing them. The problem is only that if you play a weak amp at high volume the signal will clip and overheat the speaker because there's lots of full current DC running through them when the wave clips. The thing they all neglect to mention is that clipped audio sounds like complete poo poo long before it blows a speaker, but they listened to it that way trying to show that they had a loud system. I heard a guy doing that in stop and go traffic on the freeway the other day, I couldn't believe it. Just the nastiest distortion and popping I've ever heard, and he was riding with some hot chick and they both looked like they thought they were the coolest people on the road. So yeah leica, you won't ruin anything by running good speakers with a weak amp unless you ignore the bad audio quality.
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2013 20:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 02:54 |
|
|
hey there. i recently purchased a boss 620ua media receiver as a cheap replacement for my kaput stock head unit. it actually works great for a cheapo unit except for when playing from either usb or sd card the volume is way too low! it has a range from 0 to 100 and when playing mp3s, anything below 70 or 80 is quiet and 90 is about medium. when playing from the radio the volume levels seem normal with 50 being on the louder side of medium and 100 being blasting. my mp3s are all leveled at around 89db which is pretty normal so whats up? i dont want to increase the gain on my mp3s for fear or clipping. any suggestions?
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2013 21:58
|
|
|
1) Please, for gently caress's sake, find and use your shift key more often. You're able to type question marks so clearly it works! 2) A head-unit, while sold and treated as a single piece, is still going to contain multiple components - ultimately it still is going to have one bit of circuitry handling the radio, and another bit acting as the MP3 player, and both of those are going to feed into the internal amplifier. It sounds like the MP3 player's output is at a lower level than the radio's output (which is presumably what the amplifier and volume knob were calibrated around). Unfortunately if your headunit doesn't have a way to adjust the level on a per-source basis, you're hosed. My low-end Sony headunit lets me adjust volume per-input so that a volume level of '20' sounds equally crazy loud whether I'm listening to the tuner or to streaming bluetooth audio (and presumably, CD or aux-in if I ever actually used them!)
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2013 22:11
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:There was sort of a misinformation thing going around a while ago where people were talking about having too little power for speakers and blowing them. Yeah that's what I was worried about, over working the stock amp, so I'm basically anticipating that clipping is going to happen. I mentioned the RMS watts because I feel it's kinda silly to run speakers that capable off the stock unit. If someone thinks that running a more suitable amp won't improve the sound quality and/or prevent clipping then I'm all for other options. I'm also going to be "sealing" the doors with RAAM sound deadening mat and foam, so I imgagine that will work the speakers a bit harder also. I'm still trying to decide what I want to do, really. I already have a nice Kenwood head unit and a couple amps, but the problem is I leave my top down all the time, and even when it's up I never lock the doors. The Kenwood would be very tempting to steal, but no one would look twice at the stock unit. I thought if I could get it sounding halfway decent/powerful then I wouldn't care about having an aftermarket head unit. I just don't want to go through buying and installing an output converter only to go "meh" after it's all said and done.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2013 23:45
|
|
|
leica posted:Yeah that's what I was worried about, over working the stock amp, so I'm basically anticipating that clipping is going to happen. I mentioned the RMS watts because I feel it's kinda silly to run speakers that capable off the stock unit. If someone thinks that running a more suitable amp won't improve the sound quality and/or prevent clipping then I'm all for other options. I'm also going to be "sealing" the doors with RAAM sound deadening mat and foam, so I imgagine that will work the speakers a bit harder also. The clipping happens at the head, not the speakers, so the speakers will be fine. An amplifier will improve sound quality at high volumes, since you can amplify the lower-volume, unclipped signal from the stereo, and drive it to higher volume levels without distorting, but if you do use the stock head you'll lose sensitivity on the knob, i.e. 75% or so would be your new max since anything above that is both dangerous to hearing and probably still gonna be clipping. Best bet would be to go with the Kenwood. This all assumes that your stereo does clip; if it's the stock speakers distorting and putting the new ones in fixes it, you're golden.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2013 05:01
|
|
|
The speakers I'm replacing are some off brand components, they actually sounded pretty good until I touched one and the rubber surround disintegrated. I guess I'll just see how it goes with the Alpines hooked up to the stock unit, then again see how they do with the doors sealed up. I want to use the Kenwood, and I honestly wouldn't care if someone swiped it, I just don't want my interior/dash hacked up by some crackhead trying to get to it. Also having a nice deck implies that there may be other equipmet to be had, then they start tearing up the car looking for amps and subs, etc. And I'm not doing a remote setup either, that's a pain in the rear end, I just want to keep poo poo as simple and stealthy as possible while trying to retain some sound quality, it doesn't have to be perfect. [edit] The whole reason I'm even worried about these dumb speakers is Alpine put a warning slip in the box with bold letters talking about over-driven underpowered systems and how they can damage the voice coils via clipping, etc. I can post it when I get home, can't remember exactly what it says. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Apr 6, 2013 |
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2013 05:33
|
|
|
Like I said, clipping won't happen without you knowing it, it sounds like absolute poo poo. Unless you're a moron teenager pretending you're competing in dB drags you'll be fine. And I know you're my age and appreciate the finer things in life, and would not tolerate clipping.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2013 06:46
|
|
|
I fall into the "don't care" category. I usually like Kenwood and Pioneer but I keep seeing JVC pop up cheap. I have a bit of an allergy to JVC because of previous issues in the past with various electronics. Is this still founded? All I want is a stereo that can take a USB drive by the way and I lack the ears of an audiophile. I just want to be able to hear my tunes. CDs don't deal well with bumpy roads so I couldn't care less about CD players.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2013 10:08
|
|
|
Go into JB Hi-Fi, and tell them exactly what you just said here. They'll happily sell you a "mechless" unit from their in-house brand (can't remember the name at the moment) for like $80. The salesguy will try to tell you it will fail the on day 31 of your 30-day warranty (or whatever warranty it comes with), and will try to steer you towards a big-brand unit for twice the money. Ignore him, buy the el-cheapo, run around like a lunatic getting the adaptor harness sorted (car-to-ISO, ISO-to-head unit, these two wires will require visits to three separate shops), install in 20 minutes, be happy.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 02:37
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:Go into JB Hi-Fi, and tell them exactly what you just said here. They'll happily sell you a "mechless" unit from their in-house brand (can't remember the name at the moment) for like $80. The salesguy will try to tell you it will fail the on day 31 of your 30-day warranty (or whatever warranty it comes with), and will try to steer you towards a big-brand unit for twice the money. Ignore him, buy the el-cheapo, run around like a lunatic getting the adaptor harness sorted (car-to-ISO, ISO-to-head unit, these two wires will require visits to three separate shops), install in 20 minutes, be happy. I just ask them why the hell they are selling it if it'll do that and it usually shuts them the hell up. Good advice though. Didn't even know they had house brands. I know I see the Kenwoods sometimes for about the same price and am tempted but the modern ones have too much flashy poo poo going on. I find it distracting and I'm not going to try to read a display while I'm driving anyway. So perhaps a bit of brand whorism, but they have always struck me as easy to use, no BS units. Not overly concerned about adapter harnesses etc. I have a suspicion that the fitted radio doesn't really have a connector as such. Adequate quality audio with decent volume for a loud vehicle gives a lot of leeway. The only fun part is going to be pruning the 10mm horizontally and 2mm vertically from the hole. Well maybe that's not quite right. It's been about 14 years since the last time I did a retrofit so my recollections of the measurements may be a bit off. I don't even have this vehicle yet but a plain radio especially in these parts that only seem to have country music and moldy oldies on the airwaves will drive me nuts in short order. Sure I could use an FM adaptor, but blech. They suck.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 03:49
|
|
|
If you've been holding out for a cheap AppRadio 2, it's your time: Best Buy is selling it for $279 out the door. At retailers other than Best Buy, Pioneer's running a $120 rebate through the end of the month. Crutchfield's running a $100 price break which stacks to arrive at the same final price of $279. Whether it's selling slowly or clearing inventory for an AppRadio 3 is anybody's guess, but if a 2 meets your needs then there you go.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2013 18:30
|
|
|
Definitely holding out for the App Radio 3. Hopefully it will have better Android support.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2013 22:15
|
|
|
I have a 2003 Civic EX and I'm just going to pay someone to replace the head unit because I watched a youtube on how to do it and it looks like a huge pain in the rear end that I could conceivably do, but would never bother to. In any case, is there anything I need to buy besides this dash kit: http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-7899-Honda-Civic-01-05/dp/B0002BETUE A wiring harness? I'm just going to have them put in a JVC KD-X50BT.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2013 19:44
|
|
|
Inept posted:I have a 2003 Civic EX and I'm just going to pay someone to replace the head unit because I watched a youtube on how to do it and it looks like a huge pain in the rear end that I could conceivably do, but would never bother to. In any case, is there anything I need to buy besides this dash kit: http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-7899-Honda-Civic-01-05/dp/B0002BETUE A wiring harness? I'm just going to have them put in a JVC KD-X50BT. You'll also need a wiring harness. Just google "(my car) wiring harness". They're a couple bucks on amazon.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2013 21:12
|
|
|
I've been doing some searches and keep getting mixed opinions. A friend has a 2011 Yukon with the normal (not bose) stereo. Ideally he wants to be able to turn down the bass on the factory speakers, and add an amp and sub(s) so that he can go louder without distortion from bass. He also states that he doesn't want punchy bass, he wants accurate but low extension. I don't really do car audio stuff, but I feel the two of us can set something up that will make him happy. He's coming over tonight and we're going to take some measurements and let him figure out how much space he wants to lose for an enclosure. So far I'm thinking a ported enclosure with dual drivers tuned down to 30hz. My question: He wants to keep the factory head unit. Can I tap into the speaker wires and run speaker level input to the aftermarket amp or will this sound like poo poo ? I can also do a line out converter, but if the aftermarket amp accepts high level input, it would make the install easier. Secondly, which signal should I grab from ? A positive on the left front speaker, and a negative on the right ? Or I could do a 2 channel amp, each channel driving one driver, and run them in stereo. Or combine the two front channels and run that to the amp, and operate it in bridges mode. Thirdly, when setting up a crossover/low pass filter, where is a good frequency to start at ? In a home system, 80hz is the foolproof value. Does this work for cars also ? Lastly, What impedance is best ? We could do 2 ohm all the way up to 8. In home subs, higher impedance means higher damping factor, which means more accurate output at the cost of SPL. Since this isn't a max spl project, more like a good setup for camping and tailgating, and something to crank while driving home from work, what would give the most accurate clean output ?
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 00:13
|
|
|
Throw some "bass blockers" on the mids, use the high level inputs off either both back or front speakers (using R+ and L- or vice versa will give you a pseudo-surround type of thing you don't want), start at 120hz and work down by ear depending on the slope, just forget you ever heard the term damping, go with total 1 or 2 ohms for almost all class D amps, and if it was me, I'd do one larger driver instead of two smaller ones.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 00:47
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:Throw some "bass blockers" on the mids, use the high level inputs off either both back or front speakers (using R+ and L- or vice versa will give you a pseudo-surround type of thing you don't want), start at 120hz and work down by ear depending on the slope, just forget you ever heard the term damping, go with total 1 or 2 ohms for almost all class D amps, and if it was me, I'd do one larger driver instead of two smaller ones. We may do that, the 1 large driver. However there isn't room for a 15 with a box design he wants, so it could be either 2 10's or 2 12's. So far the idea is 2 JBL 10" GTO's. From simulations I can get 120db out of them open air without exceeding xmax, and roll off at 20hz. This is with 4 2" round ports.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 03:50
|
|
|
jonathan posted:We may do that, the 1 large driver. However there isn't room for a 15 with a box design he wants, so it could be either 2 10's or 2 12's. So far the idea is 2 JBL 10" GTO's. From simulations I can get 120db out of them open air without exceeding xmax, and roll off at 20hz.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 04:57
|
|
|
So I bought a 1980 Ford Courier the other day and it came with a stock AM radio...which is currently not working. There seems to be some sort of vague hiss coming out of the speakers when I turn the unit on, but that's about it. I'd like to be able to plug in my iPod, or at the very least get the FM band. I saw this faceplate on Crutchfield retro, which I believe will fit my truck. I've never really tackled car audio before, what should be my next step? I'm not looking for some kind of killer sound system, just something moderately priced where I can listen to music either through my iPod or on the radio. Thanks in advance. Xarthor fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Apr 16, 2013 |
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 16:12
|
|
|
Xarthor posted:I've never really tackled car audio before, what should be my next step? I'm not looking for some kind of killer sound system, just something moderately priced where I can listen to music either through my iPod or on the radio. Thanks in advance. You'll need the radio itself. This one should do what you need it to and comes with a free bezel/knob kit of your choosing. Then all you need is the harness to adapter (also available from Crutchfield and free when you buy the radio) that plugs into connectors for your existing radio (so you don't have to hack up the vehicle wiring harness). Once you get all that stuff you'll use the wiring harness/plugs that come with the radio and attach it to the harness adapter (everything should be labeled clearly so it will be pretty easy). You'll need some electrical tape and even better yet some shrink tubing. Then it's just a simple mechanical install. Motronic fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Apr 16, 2013 |
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 16:19
|
|
|
Lowclock, Thanks for the tips. I'll tune for 30hz. I find that the winisd program works pretty well for simulation versus open air measurements. The 120db I quoted was simulated outside measured at 1 meter. In the vehicle with doors shut it will go up a lot. Mostly I like winisd to figure out xmax at different frequencies and port velocity as well as figuring out port length. I do agree that once its in a vehicle everything can change. The reason for the dual 10's is because the floorspace is 48" wide and 10" deep. The vehicle is used daily and often has groceries etc. So what were doing is making a 48" wide, 8" deep and 12" tall box. This way the floorspace is unaffected, but vertical space is lost. Not a big issue. This will net a little under 2.5ft^3. If we did a single 15", the box would have to sit 17" tall. That won't work. Those JBL's are dirt cheap. We can make the box for cheap as I have all the materials and tools. Finishing will be carpet or bed liner. His choice. I'm not sure on the amp. I'm out of my element here. With these drivers, 300 or 350 watts each should be enough. If you say 1 or 2 ohm, I'll go for that. Might try the used market first. I assume the class d amps run a bit cooler with 1 or 2 ohm loads ?
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 18:01
|
|
|
Molten Llama posted:If you've been holding out for a cheap AppRadio 2, it's your time: Any of you guys have an AppRadio? Are you happy with it? My current unit is a Pioneer Avic F700BT which seems to have possibly bricked itself yesterday. I'm trying some solutions I found on Avic411, but not much luck so far, so I might be looking for a new headunit. Edit: For reference, I have an iPhone so not worried about Android support Kloaked00 fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Apr 16, 2013 |
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 18:21
|
|
|
jonathan posted:If you say 1 or 2 ohm, I'll go for that. Might try the used market first. I assume the class d amps run a bit cooler with 1 or 2 ohm loads ?
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 22:13
|
|
|
Although it's way down the bottom of my list of priorities is there any reason I shouldn't consider a cheap stereo like this one? I'm just after something I can shove a USB stick in and play music. I remember when I couldn't even buy a cheap car tape player for that price. drat things have changed. http://www.jbhifi.com.au/car-sound-gps-navigation/mp3-cd-tuners/sony/usb-digital-media-player-sku-93888/
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 22:32
|
|
|
Kloaked00 posted:Any of you guys have an AppRadio? Are you happy with it? My current unit is a Pioneer Avic F700BT which seems to have possibly bricked itself yesterday. I'm trying some solutions I found on Avic411, but not much luck so far, so I might be looking for a new headunit. I installed a DA100 in my Fit. The features are light so it's pretty useless unless you have a smartphone. The display I huge, it looks OE, and if your phone is jailbroken you should be able to mirror everything a la ARliberator.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2013 00:17
|
|
|
So a couple months ago I asked if there was a HU that would be close to a smartphone. At the time I was told that just mounting a tab or something to the dash was probably the best solution. Not I see this link to AppRadio. Is this thing too good to be true ? I'm running an Android Galaxy Nexus, we also have a Galaxy Tab. I have a sirius radio subscription as well. Can this HU be made to work with Sirius ?
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2013 21:30
|
|
|
jonathan posted:So a couple months ago I asked if there was a HU that would be close to a smartphone. At the time I was told that just mounting a tab or something to the dash was probably the best solution. Not I see this link to AppRadio. There are rumors that AppRadio 3 will be out relatively soon, so I would wait for that. You'll have to download the Arlington app to mirror your phone on the display but who knows how much more compatible AR3 will be.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2013 22:17
|
|
|
Yeah this one seems sort of lovely. I require sat radio, and the ability to watch movies while driving. Not for me but for my spouse as we frequently do 1200km road trips to the coast.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2013 23:38
|
|
|
I'm looking at potentially replacing the OEM headunit in my 2004 BMW 330ci (with HK sound, no navi), but I will only do it if I will be able to integrate the steering wheel controls (up/down, volume, bluetooth) to the new headunit. Looking on Crutchfield they say they don't have any steering wheel control interfaces compatible with my car, but surely there must be something out there that will work with a new big-brand headunit. I have no desire to replace any of the speakers or amp as the HK system in the car is good enough for me, I just want to add a not-lovely iPod interface and Bluetooth/A2DP. Anyone have any experience with E46s or that era of BMWs in general?
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2013 21:15
|
|
|
If you have the cash, Dynavin seems to make a nice OEM looking product that works with all the BMW bits. http://www.dynavin.com/products/product_dnv_e46.php
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2013 22:13
|
|
|
Because I don't know what to search for I don't know the answer to this. What are the dimensions of the really old and the newer standard stereos? I want to figure out what I can fit in the Niva. I'm not overly sure but the tape deck that's in it looks like the newer size one but I can't be sure until I take a ruler to it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2013 22:18
|
|
|
Sadi posted:If you have the cash, Dynavin seems to make a nice OEM looking product that works with all the BMW bits. http://www.dynavin.com/products/product_dnv_e46.php Yeah I've looked at it, but I'm not trying to spend nearly $1000 on a replacement (once you include the HVAC relocation kit). Also I've read some pretty mixed things about the Dynavin, even the new D99 Android ones. Build quality is supposedly pretty bad and the interface is not particularly nice. For almost $1000 I expect a flawless product. I'm still somewhat considering the DICE/Audiovox MediaBridge, but I've also read some mixed reviews on that as well. But for more like ~$250 it's less of a gamble. But if for the same ~$250 I could do a new headunit and associated bits that all work together nicely I would consider it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2013 22:35
|
|
|
Guinness posted:Yeah I've looked at it, but I'm not trying to spend nearly $1000 on a replacement (once you include the HVAC relocation kit). Also I've read some pretty mixed things about the Dynavin, even the new D99 Android ones. Build quality is supposedly pretty bad and the interface is not particularly nice. For almost $1000 I expect a flawless product. I put a DICE in my mom's E46 M3. It was pretty painless other than running the ipod cable into the center council cleanly was a bit of a bitch. Otherwise its been pretty good. All the buttons work just like you were working the CD player. She doesn't have the HK though so in my opinion its a bit gutless sounding. Hers was an early unit and the cable came apart. They sent us a whole new unit with thicker cable. Its been holding up well so far. Her's does not have bluetooth though. I think it uses digital audio though so I think with adapter it would work with the iPhone 5 (I don't know if lightning compatibility is important to you).
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2013 01:25
|
|
|
The HK unit is garbage, you're not missing anything.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2013 10:09
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:Because I don't know what to search for I don't know the answer to this. What are the dimensions of the really old and the newer standard stereos? I want to figure out what I can fit in the Niva. I'm not overly sure but the tape deck that's in it looks like the newer size one but I can't be sure until I take a ruler to it. Well i dont know if im really understanding your question as far as 'newer' standard stereos but here's DIN: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_7736
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2013 16:02
|
|
|
Vigo327 posted:Well i dont know if im really understanding your question as far as 'newer' standard stereos but here's DIN: That was the problem I faced. I didn't know how to explain it properly. I know the old ones are a few mm smaller in one dimension and a bit more than that in the other. Thanks for the link. That answers my question. The year it was established also helps. Time to take to the stereo with a ruler to figure out which one it is.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2013 22:58
|
|
|
I'm looking at a head unit (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_070XML8150/Dual-XML8150.html) for my 2002 Audi TT. I've installed a few head units back when I was in highschool, but that was a decade ago, so I want to make sure I know what I'm doing before I do so now. I saw three things that gave me pause: "You'll need to fabricate a trim plate in order to install your new receiver. Professional installation may be required." and "You may not be able to close the factory radio cover if you install a stereo with a fold-down faceplate or a protruding faceplate." and "The Crutchfield harness does not have an accessory power connection, so you will need to connect your new receiver's accessory power wire to a source of accessory power in your vehicle." What's all this about fabricating a trim plate? Does that mean the thing will just have a small gap without a trim plate, or will it affect the unit's stability/usability? My car does in fact have a face plate that flips over the stereo. Is there any way to know if it will fit, or am I stuck guessing? I don't really understand that bit about the power connection. What does it mean?
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2013 21:32
|
|
|
I just bought me an Appradio 2 for the vic. I would have to pay sales tax from best buy, so I got it from https://www.soundoftristate.com they are an authorized dealer that is not excluded from the rebate and they price match. They would not go as far as best buy since they they do an instant rebate but $349.99 and free shipping and the $120 mail in rebate for a final price of $229.99 to my door.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2013 21:53
|
|
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:I'm looking at a head unit (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_070XML8150/Dual-XML8150.html) for my 2002 Audi TT. I've installed a few head units back when I was in highschool, but that was a decade ago, so I want to make sure I know what I'm doing before I do so now. I saw three things that gave me pause: This channel might help: http://www.youtube.com/user/Enfig/videos?query=audi+tt In one of the install videos he shows that there are some side blocks you can buy to adapt an aftermarket radio into the slot, I'm surprised that crutchfield doesn't carry them. I think the note about accessory power means it won't work with the key in position 1, but I'm not 100% on that. Also he shows that pretty much any stereo with a protruding knob or button of any kind will prevent the cover from coming down, but detaching the face (if it's detachable) will allow it to come down. Also note that Crutchfield does carry the wiring adapter and removal tools but because it's such a cheapass stereo it doesn't include them for free. They're $15, worth every penny. Make sure you add them on regardless. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Apr 26, 2013 |
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2013 22:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 02:54 |
|
|
Some OE stereos are connected through LIN/CAN bus and don't have a 12v ACC wire, don't know if that's the case here but I can confirm when I'm at work.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2013 00:53
|
|