|
I had a Pioneer DEH-P6700MP for a loooong time. It got stolen this year and I have been driving around without any radio  I went to best buy and none of their stuff looked as good as the DEH-P6700MP. So now I am going to go about finding something comparable to the same look and feel, and all I require is an AUX input, gently caress the USB or iPhone connectors. I'm just bummed that I have to buy another head unit when I could have been happy using that one forever.I have a concern about installing the device though, the thief ripped the mounting stuff out and I think may have broken one of the brackets that connected the car to the mounting brackets, how do I deal with that? I was hoping to just take it to a shop to get them to do the installing, but would they even be able to?
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2012 16:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 01:19 |
|
|
Physical posted:I had a Pioneer DEH-P6700MP for a loooong time. It got stolen this year and I have been driving around without any radio Won't really know unless you can get us a picture of it to know how to repair it. Also if you loved that head unit why don't you search out another on Amazon or ebay?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2012 17:11
|
|
|
JackRabbitStorm posted:Won't really know unless you can get us a picture of it to know how to repair it. Also if you loved that head unit why don't you search out another on Amazon or ebay?  and I'm not sure I like the contours on the newer ones. My old one had a flatter surface (you could push the volume knob in)which seems like they don't do anymore. The only problem with that unit is that I had to buy a AUX adapter thing for it, so I'd rather not have to buy that thing again and just get one device. gently caress that thief for this pain in the rear end.Pictures are a good idea, I'll do that later.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2012 17:17
|
|
|
Karthe posted:What's the current state of interaction between head units and Android devices via USB? I'm switching from an iOS phone to an Android phone in a few months and am curious if I'll be able to control playback from it just fine, or if I should upgrade to a head unit that has Bluetooth. Ideally I'd be able to use the head unit's hardware back and forward buttons to skip songs not only on stuff I've loaded onto the phone, but in things like Google Music and Pandora as well. Pretty much every manufacturer will tell you on their site exactly what the headunit can and can't do over USB. I don't think third party app support is very consistent for anything but Pandora though. Some support more but you'll have to look. Bluetooth, on the other hand, seems to do pretty well across apps. With Bluetooth on my JVC deck and the current version of iOS, I can skip tracks in Rdio and iCatcher, and the deck shows artist info/song title/album for both. With Android you can even thumbs up and down Pandora over bluetooth.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2012 17:39
|
|
|
destructo posted:I see a fair amount of cheap T-amps on eBay, worthwhile? I have an eBay T-amp driving a couple of cheapass bookshelf speakers in my garage. It actually sounds pretty damned good and can get plenty loud. I have this exact one, bought it two+ years ago off of a different seller, and it's driving a couple of these for reference.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2012 17:57
|
|
|
Physical posted:Yea I just looked it up on ebay and got a couple of hits, but I also checked out what the "modern" equivalent would be. I don't see any swimmin' dolphins though
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2012 18:48
|
|
|
It's an ebay only find as of now, but looks like a better replacement than going back to the old one.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2012 18:55
|
|
|
Big Daddy Keynes posted:This is very much in LoydDobler's area of expertise. Imma burst your bubble and tell you that the kickin rad eq is... not. Anything you buy in 2012 is going to have vastly better eq options than that can provide, so bypassing it is your best option. If you insist on using it, you can do some RCA converters if you can figure out the wiring and buy the DIN connectors from digi-key, but there's nothing off the shelf that will do it for you as far as I know. You can still leave it in the dash so it looks awesome if you want. The stereo adapters that go in there don't interfere with it. Like so:  (imagine the eq in the pocket under the stereo, it's the same housing)
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2012 19:09
|
|
|
Never really thought about this before, but I have a question. Last year I bought a mtx 12" sub, it recommended a sealed box but I already had a ported box so I just used that. I want to buy a second sub this year so I was thinking about buying one that recommended a ported box and swapping boxes since the sub I have is discontinued anyway. Would this cause any strange sound issues or anything, having one ported, one sealed box? The box I have is a 1.8 cf ported and it recommended a 1.25cf sealed. Any recommendations on a 2nd 12" that could use the ported box? Preferably under $200.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2012 20:02
|
|
|
BJA posted:Never really thought about this before, but I have a question. Last year I bought a mtx 12" sub, it recommended a sealed box but I already had a ported box so I just used that. I want to buy a second sub this year so I was thinking about buying one that recommended a ported box and swapping boxes since the sub I have is discontinued anyway.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2012 20:25
|
|
|
Has anyone seen a preview for CES 2013?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2012 23:45
|
|
|
Karthe posted:What's the current state of interaction between head units and Android devices via USB? I'm switching from an iOS phone to an Android phone in a few months and am curious if I'll be able to control playback from it just fine, or if I should upgrade to a head unit that has Bluetooth. Honestly I'd just get a head unit that supports blue tooth. Its not like it adds much/anything to the price (its basically a standard feature now) and as stated is much more cross compatible. When I had a company car at my last job w/Sync (Ford Fusion) I loaded my music collection on a 8GB thumb drive that just lived in the USB port, and used my Android phone for webcasts over A2DP because it was easier to download them on the phone than pull the thumb drive and put it in a computer.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 06:56
|
|
|
powderific posted:Bluetooth, on the other hand, seems to do pretty well across apps. With Bluetooth on my JVC deck and the current version of iOS, I can skip tracks in Rdio and iCatcher, and the deck shows artist info/song title/album for both. With Android you can even thumbs up and down Pandora over bluetooth. I can't do thumbs up/down from my head unit, but any A2DP-capable head unit should be able to support track skipping. I can verify that with the DEH-6400BT and the Galaxy Nexus, I can skip tracks using Slacker, Pandora, Google Play Music, and PowerAMP, using both the buttons on the head unit and the remote. Slacker and Pandora can't skip back, PowerAMP allows you to configure if pressing the previous track button once rewinds to the beginning of the track or skips to the previous track entirely. However, my deck won't show track info, it just keeps alternating between showing the name of the phone and the time. I do still have to use the phone to swap between artists or stations though. I have PowerAMP configured to fire up as soon as it detects a connection to the car stereo though, and it resumes from wherever it left off. Comes in handy when you're doing pizza delivery (and thus, in and out of the car constantly).powderific, which JVC deck do you have? It'd be nice to be able to have the deck showing the track information; the manual for mine states that there's no way to do that with my current head unit. Then again, it was pretty cheap ($130 in March, down to $90 now). I've had a couple of JVC head units before and liked them, and my home stereo is an 18 year old JVC receiver that still sounds great (it was pretty high end in 1994 though). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Dec 6, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 07:08
|
|
|
Whats the deal with newer headunits and no HD Radio? I was looking for a good double DIN non-nav head unit the other day and most of them don't have built-in HD radio or even support a plug-in module. Did I miss something?
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 07:30
|
|
|
It's a KD-RW900bt that seems to have gone up in price in the week since I bought it. It was $179 last week, now it's $220 again: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_45823_JVC-KW-R900BT.html?gclid=CK7ekIuShbQCFcaiPAodNHIAuw Looks like most of the JVC decks display track info now. No idea when that became a thing. So, it seems that I've hosed something up in my amplifier/speaker install somewhere. I haven't had any time to troubleshoot at all, but there's a constant clicking from the tweeter when the car is running. It's loud enough to be noticeable, but doesn't seem to change volume with the receiver's setting, and doesn't happen if the car is on but the engine isn't running. I tried to keep the power wires away from the RCA cables but they unfortunately do get within a few inches of eachother in a couple places. The whole project is on the upper end of what I'm comfortable DIY'ing and troubleshooting this with any thoroughness is probably beyond me unless there's something easy I can try. The only thing I thought might work is turning the amp gain down since I'd pushed it up a little while testing something else.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 07:36
|
|
|
BJA posted:Never really thought about this before, but I have a question. Last year I bought a mtx 12" sub, it recommended a sealed box but I already had a ported box so I just used that. I want to buy a second sub this year so I was thinking about buying one that recommended a ported box and swapping boxes since the sub I have is discontinued anyway. What's your goal with this setup? Are you just trying to go louder? What style box is it? Back maybe 15 years ago  I had a box with a window on one end, the sub mounted inside, and a port on the other end. A bit hard to describe, and I can't find a pic of it. I want to say it was an MTX Thunder box, but GIS is failing me for the exact style. Anyway, I got a 2nd sub (same size), mounted it in the same box right up against the existing one (facing it) and wired it out of phase, so that it would be "pulling" when the other was "pushing".  holy poo poo. It was the loudest poo poo I'd ever heard. Power handling went way up, since the two speakers were limiting each others' movement. I've since outgrown that sort of thing, and just have a single 10" in a sealed box in my main car now, but that old setup was super loud, and very clean. I didn't have to sacrifice any more trunk space either. Only problem was that the car sounded like it was going to rattle apart on the outside. Never was able to fix that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 07:56
|
|
|
Even with all cables on the same side of the car, with pawn shop amps, I've never run into that. A "constant clicking" with the engine running points at a bad spark plug cable or an alternator about to poo poo itself. In addition to the "we got some loose cable" stuff.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 10:39
|
|
|
Black88GTA posted:What's your goal with this setup? Are you just trying to go louder? That's a bandpass box, and (as you stated) a push/pull setup. Bandpass is good when you want deep and loud, but it requires more space.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 11:52
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:Even with all cables on the same side of the car, with pawn shop amps, I've never run into that. Well, it's good to know that it probably isn't power cable interferance. The car is only 1000 miles old at this point and, while it's certainly possible that something came hosed from the factory, I'm hoping that it's somewhat unlikely. This morning I tried turning the amplifier gain all the way down and it seemed to eliminate the noise, but I have to turn up the head unit almost all the way to get to my normal listening volume (this is with only one front speaker installed.) I think I can bump the amplifier gain up just a teeny bit and get enough volume without bringing the clicking back, or it might actually be fine as is once I get the second speaker in. Will having my headunit turned up to 90% volume for regular listening cause issues? Cause it'd be great if this was all I had to do to fix the clicks.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 17:01
|
|
|
The head unit will be running line level voltage so not a lot of current. If the sound is clean, it's fine. The only risk of running the head unit at high volume is reaching its limits and clipping or distorting. In fact, you want the highest level of output from the head unit so that you can have more amp headroom. I wouldn't recommend doing anything based on testing a half-installed system. I've blown speakers by hooking up only one channel, some amps are balanced in such a way as running only one speaker will be running it at half impedance, which will overcurrent the amp. Most modern amps will go into current protection mode fortunately. Otherwise for odd noises, as a general rule try grounding things better.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 18:33
|
|
|
Is the pioneer appradio2 any good? It will be used with an iphone 4, the complaints seem to be about android compatiblity. I am replacing a double din radio and it would be nice to get some nav, as well as radio. I am lazy most of the time, and just use the radio as noise.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 18:41
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:The head unit will be running line level voltage so not a lot of current. If the sound is clean, it's fine. The only risk of running the head unit at high volume is reaching its limits and clipping or distorting. In fact, you want the highest level of output from the head unit so that you can have more amp headroom. Thanks, I'll refrain from loving around with it till I get the second set of speakers installed.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 18:50
|
|
|
Black88GTA posted:What's your goal with this setup? Are you just trying to go louder?
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2012 19:18
|
|
|
Poing posted:That's a bandpass box, and (as you stated) a push/pull setup. Bandpass is good when you want deep and loud, but it requires more space. Lowclock posted:Those would be called a single reflex bandpass box, and then a "clamshell" isobaric single reflex. Bandpass boxes are amazing if they're built correctly, but they're harder to design and build than most others. Isobaric is nice too if you have no space. Bandpass.  That's it. I couldn't remember the word for it. Believe it or not, I knew quite a bit about this stuff some years ago, but have forgotten a lot of it.This was an off-the-shelf box, but it was heavy and felt very sturdy. I still have it (with both drivers in it) at my parents' house in fact, along with a few late '90s amplifiers and other crap. I really should get around to selling some of that stuff.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 03:41
|
|
|
Any alarm experts here? I have a Smartstart setup with alarm and I would like to pair a new transmitter to it. The instructions mention a Program button on the alarm box, but all I have is a Valet button. Does this require wiring a switch into one of the connectors? Directed are dicks who don't affix labels that give model numbers to the alarm box, so I can't search for a manual that they probably would sue someone for posting. It also has this weird tendency to not respond to the remote once the engine starts. Shutdown or Unlock has to be handled through the stunningly suck-tastic mobile app. This is loads of fun in the rain. Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 05:38
|
|
|
Kynetx posted:Any alarm experts here? I have a Smartstart setup with alarm and I would like to pair a new transmitter to it. The instructions mention a Program button on the alarm box, but all I have is a Valet button. Does this require wiring a switch into one of the connectors?
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 07:03
|
|
|
ErectorBeast posted:I don't want to watch movies, I can follow navigation well enough just looking at my phone while driving like an outlaw, and I wouldn't mind radio but depending on costs I may forsake it at least for now. At the very least I want to just plug in my phone and listen to my Spotify. All kinds of music, from the bass-yy to the soprano-y Well, you can either go the "no headunit" route that some are suggesting, or you can go with a headunit with an aux in, or depending on your phone, you may be able to find a headunit that you can plug your phone in to and control directly. If you go the "no headunit" route, you're probably going to want to find a good quality 3 or 5-channel (with an El-Camino you probably don't need rear channel speakers), amp so you can drive the full-range and subs off of one input channel. You'll probably want to look for equipment that is geared towards SQ (sound quality), since you're listening to a variety of music and will need a good amount of dynamic range. What type of "bassy" music are you listening to? If it's stuff like rap, you could probably go with a ported enclosure. If you're listening to something with a lot of dyanmic bass range, I'd suggest going with a sealed enclosure instead.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 08:47
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:Those would be called a single reflex bandpass box, and then a "clamshell" isobaric single reflex. Bandpass boxes are amazing if they're built correctly, but they're harder to design and build than most others. Isobaric is nice too if you have no space. 88GTA: I just did the same thing, gave away a bunch of 90s stereo stuff. Some of it almost new.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 15:06
|
|
|
Finally finished my install. Properly setting the amplifier gain completely negated whatever that clicking was. I'm relatively happy with the sound—definitely way better than stock—but even with EQ adjustments the tweeters sound like their levels are too high(or the mids aren't high enough.) A little annoying since my main goal was a relatively balanced response. Probably haven't spent quite enough time tweaking the EQ yet so I'm going to keep working at it for the time being. The general car audio world seems to love a really, really unbalanced sound with crazy hot tweeters, no midrange, and a ton of bass. Every set I listened to in the two car audio places near me sounded terrible, including sets the sales dudes claimed were the most top of the line. I don't have golden ears or anything, but I've spent enough time with good non-car audio, both home and in studios, to know how I like a relatively flat response with a maybe a little hump in the midbass and bass. Fining even a minor consensus from reviewers to point me in the right direction was pretty much impossible thanks to wildly varying perceptions and zero measurements. I went with something that at least had published IB measurements so I'd know the designer had put some thought into flat-ish response.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 18:27
|
|
|
I don't want to change the stock look of my Mazda3 and I'm paranoid about theft. Is there a significant sound quality disadvantage to using a line-out converter to run an amp off the signal from my stock head unit? It looks like some amplifiers have speaker level inputs, which means they wouldn't even require a converter, right?
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2012 21:58
|
|
|
Yay, new thread!MonkeyNutZ posted:I was looking into going headunitless in about a decade when I finish my project car. I found a few threads about just using cheap class T amps but I'd love to hear what AI has to say. I want to go headunit-less in the Mini because there's no real "dash" and you can't put stereo components in this:  And not have it look awful. Depends on your budget and needs really, for me I'm planning: -Redo the dash cards in speaker cloth, hide 6.5" components behind it -JVC head unit hidden away, USB and aux mounted in upper ashtray -Android phone as display for the JVC, also mounted on ashtray -OESWC steering wheel controls flush mounted somewhere -10" shallow sub mounted in boot -4 Ch amp to power front speakers and sub I like my CBC radio so I need a head unit but the basic setup is the same. blindjoe posted:Is the pioneer appradio2 any good? It will be used with an iphone 4, the complaints seem to be about android compatiblity. I am replacing a double din radio and it would be nice to get some nav, as well as radio. I am lazy most of the time, and just use the radio as noise. You get to use a lot more apps with iOS but even then the number of apps that are compatible is pretty small. Then again there could be hacks out there, I haven't played around with them that much. Kynetx posted:Any alarm experts here? I have a Smartstart setup with alarm and I would like to pair a new transmitter to it. The instructions mention a Program button on the alarm box, but all I have is a Valet button. Does this require wiring a switch into one of the connectors? Is it an alarm or an alarm/starter combo? Does it have Smartstart out of the box of did you buy the module seperately? A photo of the alarm would help if you can't get a model number. Also what kind of car is it? Are you saying the factory keyfob stops working when the car is remote started?  I can help with DEI and Compustar product questions and access vehicle wiring infoOh god, so many remote starters
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2012 02:59
|
|
|
Tacier posted:I don't want to change the stock look of my Mazda3 and I'm paranoid about theft. Is there a significant sound quality disadvantage to using a line-out converter to run an amp off the signal from my stock head unit? It looks like some amplifiers have speaker level inputs, which means they wouldn't even require a converter, right? No and yes, some amps will take high level signal inputs.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2012 03:08
|
|
|
Bulk Vanderhuge posted:
I got a Viper 5904 over the summer that I want to install in my car. I don't suppose you'd be able to get ahold of alarm related wiring diagrams for a 1994 BMW 840Ci? I've done shitloads of car stereo installs, but never an alarm / remote start. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2012 03:33
|
|
|
Black88GTA posted:I got a Viper 5904 over the summer that I want to install in my car. I don't suppose you'd be able to get ahold of alarm related wiring diagrams for a 1994 BMW 840Ci? I've done shitloads of car stereo installs, but never an alarm / remote start. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Dec 8, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2012 03:56
|
|
|
Black88GTA posted:I got a Viper 5904 over the summer that I want to install in my car. I don't suppose you'd be able to get ahold of alarm related wiring diagrams for a 1994 BMW 840Ci? I've done shitloads of car stereo installs, but never an alarm / remote start. I was looking at getting one, we get a discount with Viper through my work. Let me know what you think, from what I read it looks like a 5901 with a rotary switch and OLED GRAPHICS. Oh boy...Directechs has almost nothing for wiring info. I'll look around at work tomorrow though.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2012 04:06
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:The12Volt.com is just as good as some subscription places when it comes to that stuff. Which is to say, not very good, but enough to get you through it. I've had the Python version of that alarm in my 540 for a while and it's been great. Automatically rolling up your windows and sunroof when you lock the car is awesome. Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Oh boy...Directechs has almost nothing for wiring info. I'll look around at work tomorrow though. If you do manage to find anything, I'd be grateful  e: I'll post up my impressions of the system once I get it in there. Won't be until at least spring though, gently caress installing an alarm in the driveway when it's <40f out and the car is hibernating for the winter anyway.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2012 05:53
|
|
|
powderific posted:Finally finished my install. Properly setting the amplifier gain completely negated whatever that clicking was. I'm relatively happy with the sound—definitely way better than stock—but even with EQ adjustments the tweeters sound like their levels are too high(or the mids aren't high enough.) Are you using whatever crossovers came with your speakers? A lot of them will have a way to change the tweeter levels, usually by way of moving the + wire (going to the tweeter) to a different terminal on the x-over. My crossovers have a +3dB, 0, and -3dB terminal for the tweeters. -3 sounds good with mine, 0 sounded kinda crappy, +3 made my brain hurt.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2012 06:13
|
|
|
The design provides a few different resistor values for the tweeter to do exactly that, but I already thoroughly secured the crossovers under my dash  . I'm not sure which level is on there right now since my multimeter has mysteriously stopped measuring anything and Madisound glued the resistors on letters down. I suppose I should probably pull the crossover boards and try some higher value resistors before making too many judgements, but I already EQ'd down most of the frequencies covered by the tweeter by about 9db in the headunit's settings. Changing things at the crossover probably would be better though.On the bright (haha) side, the tweeters are very nice and, because they're crossed really low, it doesn't make the system un-listenable or anything.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2012 00:00
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:I don't know what exact setup you have, but the button you're looking for is probably mounted on the antenna. They intend for you to mount it on the front windshield to blink it's bright rear end LED but usually installers just stick it up in the headliner or under the dash or something. I wouldn't be surprised if it's mounted somewhere really noisy which is giving you signal problems with the car running but only on the little fob remotes. I haven't yet dug out the antenna, but you're on the money regarding the truck running.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2012 00:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 01:19 |
|
|
Bulk Vanderhuge posted:
Dumb question, I have a Compustar remote start system with this remote:  But I hate the look and want one of these:  Do you know if they are interchangeable? I can get you the model number off the antenna tomorrow if it helps. Also, where in Winnipeg do you work? My dad is looking for a two way system for his '07 Vibe.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2012 02:51
|
|
