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IOwnCalculus posted:I think it uses them, I honestly can't remember but I think it can be faked? Friend of mine had a Ranger with the super base radio. Not even a tape deck. We found one with a tape deck at a yard sale for 10 bucks. Took it back to his place, popped the old one out with a cut up wire hanger, popped the new one in. No adapters, no fuss, took about 10 minutes including finding a hanger to cut up. It may have been the easiest head unit swap ever done.
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Jan 3, 2017 15:09
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Put it this way, at work I have some Bluetooth 3-foot-long soundbars, they cost $40 each, sound amazing and run off 5vdc. If I could get something like that in 12vdc I would love to screw it to the dashboard and call it a day. Search for "Motorcycle Soundbar" turns up something pretty close...: https://www.mtx.com/mudhsb-b-universal-motorcycle-all-weather-6-speaker-handlebar-sound-system But, it is weatherproofed which I don't really need, and hideously expensive at $400 Edit: It occurs to me that USB car chargers are 12v to 5v, maybe I'll just try that with one of my work soundbars to see how that does. It only wants 1 amp. Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Jan 3, 2017 |
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Jan 3, 2017 22:09
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You're going to destroy the dashboard, impede your view and have crappier sound in order to save like $100? I'd suggest saving up and doing it right. Buy a used head unit. Hell I've sold a couple in the past for $20 on Craigslist. You should be able to find something. Just make sure the harness isn't all hacked up.
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Jan 4, 2017 00:00
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Scrapez posted:You're going to destroy the dashboard, impede your view and have crappier sound in order to save like $100? Not to mention "extra debris flying around the cabin in a crash".
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Jan 4, 2017 00:07
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Let's talk about adding rear entertainment to a van. I'm minivan shopping (which is a surprisingly terrible experience, akin to shopping for a used Tacoma or Honda Fit). What sort of aftermarket options are there for adding in a rear DVD player or tablet? I see some people saying forget the DVDs entirely, and just load up a tablet in a little case on the headrest. I live in AZ, and am concerned that such a tablet will get nuked in the 120+ degree heat
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Jan 4, 2017 00:46
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Buy a white minivan. How hot are we talking here?
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Jan 4, 2017 11:28
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cakesmith handyman posted:Buy a white minivan. Hot enough that if you leave a CD on your dashboard, it melts. Hot enough that if you leave your phone in the car, the phone will refuse to turn back on until it cools back down to a safe operating temperature. 180 degrees or so internal temperature?
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Jan 4, 2017 22:35
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Get some form of proper seatback mount for a tablet and just mount it up when needed instead of 24x7?
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Jan 5, 2017 00:14
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Invest in window tint and a windshield shade and anything inside should survive whatever.
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Jan 5, 2017 03:11
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RIP Paul Walker posted:I haven't tried the traffic stuff (reviews say it works tho), but I got this for my sister earlier this year and she loves it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T3QC3JS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thanks for the suggestion! I haven't read too much online about the traffic capabilities yet, but am still digging into it. Still have a lot of research to do before I pick something, but this looks like it may fit, provided I can get traffic on it. If free realtime traffic proves to be unobtainable for whatever reason, I'll have to change my scope a bit. It seems weirdly scarce on head units, although it seems like every standalone GPS has it. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Don't know about the rest, but you need a mounting kit - that way you won't need to worry about the cage. Most of them are single DIN, but I found this double DIN kit (note: I've never ordered from this company before). Ahh, I can't believe I forgot that mounting kits were a thing  Supposedly, double din HUs are (officially, anyways) not an option for this car - even Crutchfield says that only single-din will fit. I was going off of old Prelude forum posts that basically said "To fit a double din you either need to hack up the dash bracket and screw the unit directly to it, or find one with a cage". Not wanting to chop up a getting-hard-to-find OEM dash bracket, I figured caged was my only option. Didn't even think about trying to find a double din dash kit. I was originally kind of looking at Pioneers, only because I have an ancient AVIC-N3 in my other car and it's been mostly great, although it's super dated now and I had to open it up and replace the touch screen last year. Also, it's DVD based and the most current maps available are from 2012, with no updates being made  However, it seems like they have done away with mounting sleeves (at least in the current crop of double din nav units) so I had previously ruled them out.
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Jan 5, 2017 06:16
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Black88GTA posted:Thanks for the suggestion! I haven't read too much online about the traffic capabilities yet, but am still digging into it. Still have a lot of research to do before I pick something, but this looks like it may fit, provided I can get traffic on it. If free realtime traffic proves to be unobtainable for whatever reason, I'll have to change my scope a bit. It seems weirdly scarce on head units, although it seems like every standalone GPS has it. Pretty much every head unit that does navigation does traffic, it pulls the OTA signals, it just needs a few bands outside of the standard AM/FM stuff for it. Buuuuuuut, head unit nav is pretty loving dismal, since the routing logic is pretty loving laughable (literally "route to nearest major arterial and stay on it regardless"), so you'd probably be better of getting an "appradio" that will allow you to display Waze or whatever your preferred phone nav app is on the head unit display.
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Jan 15, 2017 07:38
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https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X2800BS/Pioneer-AVH-X2800BS.html?avf=Y https://www.crutchfield.com/p_613DDX373B/Kenwood-DDX373BT.html?cc=01&avf=Y Which of these headunits is the better option? I really only need it to stream music from spotify through my phone and hopefully be controlled through steering wheel controls (next track, play/pause, etc) and play fm radio. Hands free calling is really not a necessity since it always sounds like poo poo. Its going to be going to 6 3/4" rockford fosgate punch speakers through a zeus amp I got for free from a co-worker and later a 12" sub with built in amp from rockford fosgate will be added. So far the only think that stands out to me is the kenwood having a physical volume knob, but it being refurbished slightly concerns me despite buying refurbished through crutchfield last time and having great luck. Halp? Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 10:12 on Jan 26, 2017 |
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Jan 26, 2017 09:41
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What is the smaller pin connector with space for a 10 amp fuse called? It appears to have 14 pins and 2 larger pegs in line with them. My sister lost the wiring harness that came with the stereo she wants me to install and getting an "official" replacement off of amazon just got me a 16 pin that was too large The head unit itself is a JVC KD-R540 if that helps at all
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Jan 26, 2017 18:17
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Cop Porn Popper posted:https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X2800BS/Pioneer-AVH-X2800BS.html?avf=Y What color is your car? As general advice, regardless of what headunit you buy you're going to need an adapter to translate existing steering wheel controls to the new headunit. Depending on what color you car is there may be other functions that go through the factory head unit, so you should probably check online with people that have the same color car to see if there are any concerns there to work through. Kenwood and Pioneer are both quality manufacturers and I'd say the main concerns are going to be aesthetic and features. Depending on what handset you have, there are certain models out there that will either replicate the display on the headunit or have some apps built-in so you just use the phone basically as an internet connection, otherwise just streaming over bluetooth works pretty well. To be honest, your requirements are basic enough at this point that you can pretty much choose any headunit that matches your budget and has a look and feel that you want in your car and you're fine provided you don't go with a poo poo brand. It looks like they're "factory refurbished" which means it was a warranty return to the manufacturer that was repaired and they're selling for a cheaper price. That should be fine provided you're comfortable with whatever the shorter warranty period is.
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Jan 26, 2017 23:28
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The Door Frame posted:What is the smaller pin connector with space for a 10 amp fuse called? It appears to have 14 pins and 2 larger pegs in line with them. My sister lost the wiring harness that came with the stereo she wants me to install and getting an "official" replacement off of amazon just got me a 16 pin that was too large http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XJVC+KD-R540+harness.TRS0&_nkw=JVC+KD-R540+harness&_sacat=0
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Jan 26, 2017 23:31
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MikeyTsi posted:http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XJVC+KD-R540+harness.TRS0&_nkw=JVC+KD-R540+harness&_sacat=0 Thank you! I would have never thought to have looked at eBay. Best Buy, Amazon, Crutchfield, PepBoys, and RadioShack were super unhelpful. I ended up buying this one, which does not fit at all and made me think it wasn't called a 16 pin connector https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Y3S4QY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Jan 27, 2017 03:01
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MikeyTsi posted:What color is your car? Sorry, 2004 mazda 6 sportwagon with factory bose audio that has had the amp and sub removed by a bastard previous owner. And an htc desire 626 something. I dunno, it was cheapish and fit my needs. And yeah, in both cases I would be ordering the steering wheel adaptor. My biggest issue is not knowing the difference in quality of the two brands or the overall reliability of a factory refurb unit from kenwood. I've generally had excellent luck with refurbished stuff, but I don't feel like chancing it this time. After conversing with a few people, I'm probably going to toss the few extra dollars into the fire and get the pioneer. I'd rather have the warranty to fall back on. Thank you for the help though.
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Jan 27, 2017 03:07
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The Door Frame posted:Thank you! I would have never thought to have looked at eBay. Best Buy, Amazon, Crutchfield, PepBoys, and RadioShack were super unhelpful. I ended up buying this one, which does not fit at all and made me think it wasn't called a 16 pin connector https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Y3S4QY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Yeah, unless your model number is explicitly listed, or you KNOW it's pin-compatible with a listed model, assume it won't be the right one and move on. You can also generally get them from the manufacturer, but they always price them like they're made of gold-pressed latinum or something.
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Jan 27, 2017 06:58
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Sorry, 2004 mazda 6 sportwagon with factory bose audio that has had the amp and sub removed by a bastard previous owner. Interestingly enough I've been "researching" audio options in mid-late 2000's Mazdas, for no "particular" reason, and it's been noted that there are some functions that are handled by the bose unit, I'm thinking that clock bar if I remember correctly being one of them? I'd check a mazda forum just to make sure; you may need another doodad if you want that stuff to work. Pioneer and Kenwood are basically a wash as far as quality as long as you're matching product lines; I personally prefer the design of the Pioneer over the Kenwood, but they both make good gear.
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Jan 27, 2017 07:03
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Correct, the top lcd display bar is tied in the the radio, current A/C settings if you have auto a/c like I do, outside temp monitoring and the clock of course. The metra install kit while kinda ugly, is the only kit available and not only retains full lcd bar functionality, but also relocates the hazard switch along with the three hvac control buttons to allow for installation of a double din radio AND allows you to customize the wording that is displayed in area that is used for the radio. However for a first generation 6, it is 160 loving dollars through crutchfield when ordering a head unit, $210 standalone. Steering wheel controls do hickey is another $50. Gonna have it to constantly scroll "Poor Financial Decisions" at me while driving! Edit: And I just pulled the trigger on the pioneer. $460. What the gently caress has gone wrong in my liiiife, why do I even I can't 
Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Jan 27, 2017 |
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Jan 27, 2017 07:17
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Correct, the top lcd display bar is tied in the the radio, current A/C settings if you have auto a/c like I do, outside temp monitoring and the clock of course. The metra install kit while kinda ugly, is the only kit available and not only retains full lcd bar functionality, but also relocates the hazard switch along with the three hvac control buttons to allow for installation of a double din radio AND allows you to customize the wording that is displayed in area that is used for the radio. However for a first generation 6, it is 160 loving dollars through crutchfield when ordering a head unit, $210 standalone. Steering wheel controls do hickey is another $50. Gonna have it to constantly scroll "Poor Financial Decisions" at me while driving! Obviously the answer then is to buy the metra kit so you can get the functionality piece you need, then buy a kit that isn't ugly and put the necessary bits from the metra kit in there!
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Jan 27, 2017 09:40
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Metra is literally the only kit made to install a standard radio in the 6 since it requires a modified interior panel. Fortunately, paint is a thing that exists. The ugly can be fixed.
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Jan 27, 2017 09:45
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MikeyTsi posted:Yeah, unless your model number is explicitly listed, or you KNOW it's pin-compatible with a listed model, assume it won't be the right one and move on. Good to know, I made the mistake of assuming that manufacturers kept things standard within their own brand. And I definitely didn't contact JVC after seeing a Sony replacement mounting sleeve for $50...
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Jan 28, 2017 00:42
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Ok so I have a 1999 Subaru Legacy SUS Sedan and it's all stock stereo and audio equipment. I'd been using a cassette adapter to hook up my iphone to play music but it's gotten extremely quiet and/or distorted so I think it's going bad. I'm thinking of just putting in a new stereo and streaming via bluetooth but I'm not sure what would be a good choice. I'd also like for it to have a CD player since I've got about a dozen or so CDs in my car but it isn't necessary since I've got my phone. I don't want to spend that much on a new stereo since I don't plan on upgrading the speakers or anything and I'm also not rich. Basically a new stereo that works just fine with stock equipment and has bluetooth would be excellent.
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Feb 2, 2017 18:15
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A quick look at Crutchfield shows you can get a decent quality head unit with CD and Bluetooth for less than $100, including mounting kit and wiring adapters. I don't like Boss or Dual at all and try to ignore them, but you can get an entry level Pioneer or Kenwood (new, not refurb) for <$100. If you don't mind refurb, you can knock a little off. Alpine, Clarion, and JVC are also good, though Clarion and JVC aren't nearly as popular in the US as they used to be. Blaupunkt used to be good, I have no idea how they are today - but the cheapest double DIN from Crutchfield that's not Dual or Boss is Blaupunkt. i like their styling a lot more than most brands too (they don't try to cram a rave into the front of their stereos) - their New Jersey 220 BT looks incredibly similar to the factory stereo from my own car, enough that a quick glance while parked would have someone think it's the original (in my case). Single or double DIN is up to you. You gain a storage pocket if you go single DIN, but it stands out as aftermarket and may make your car more of a target for a break-in (but single DIN usually has a removeable faceplate).
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Feb 2, 2017 22:34
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GZM838C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I've had that in my van for a while and it's been shockingly totally fine. I'd honestly highly recommend it if the fucks-given level is low but you still want it to function. And then this, and you're good to go https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007KK2KG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 FYI, on you car you'll bolt the radio to the stock mounting bracket thing. You won't need a separate mounting bracket or the sleeve that comes pre-installed on the radio. Careful removing stuff, it's an easy job but it's kind of easy to break things. RIP Paul Walker fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Feb 4, 2017 |
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Feb 4, 2017 02:22
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So here's one for any installers/SQ spergs that may be floating around: I'm slowly working on deadening my IS300, concentrating on the front doors for now and buying a sheet at a time, just doing a bit here and there when I have a spare half hour. I'm at the point now where the outer door skin is pretty well sorted, and I'm thinking about sealing up the window mechanism access to improve the midbass before I start looking at upgrading the splits, as I've been told that even the factory 6.5s do a lot better after. It's a much smaller opening than usual on this car - only about 6" square, so I'm wondering if I can get away with just running double sided tape around the outside, sticking a trimmed peice of 3-6mm MDF on there and then deadening over the top, rather than buying an expensive threaded insert tool to bolt it down, or permanently sticking it down with silicone etc. Note I'm in a warm, dry climate where it rains about 5 days a year so MDF should be okay, I'm just wondering if that's going to seal it up adequately.
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Feb 5, 2017 05:56
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Don Dongington posted:So here's one for any installers/SQ spergs that may be floating around: I'd use velcro rather than double-sided tape if you're going to go that route, I guarantee you're going to want to get back in there at some point. It really doesn't take much to do screws though, you just drill your holes then put in those threaded clamps so you can bolt the piece in. Then you just need foam tape around that area so it doesn't rattle or vibrate. Or you can do the cheap/quick route and just get some self-tapping screws that aren't long enough to hit the glass or interfere with the inner workings.
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Feb 7, 2017 22:32
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MikeyTsi posted:
Threaded clamps? I'm only really aware of the threaded rivnuts, for which the cheapest tooling will cost me $70AU, for a tool that I might use once. Can you link me to the things you're referring to?
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Feb 8, 2017 13:04
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Threaded clamps usually brings this to mind for me: https://www.google.com/#q=hose+clamp+threaded But maybe he means these: https://www.google.com/#q=clip+nuts ? Also called U nuts, speed nuts, or clip on nuts. NUTS NUTS NUTS
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Feb 8, 2017 18:20
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Ahhh apparently Speed nuts in Australia. Yes I think this is doable. Thanks folks!
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Feb 9, 2017 07:08
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I know nothing about car audio, but I know my car's radio has no bluetooth, and drat it, I want bluetooth. It's a 2013 Miata, and Crutchfield is telling me basically nothing fits correctly for replacement tweeters. Do I need replacement tweeters to my sound good? Say I have 250 bucks to spend to replace both the radio thing and some amount of the speakers. Am I looking at significantly better audio over the stock poo poo?
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Feb 12, 2017 00:30
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https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500HD148BT/Alpine-CDE-HD148BT.html?avf=Y https://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CS654/Kicker-40CS654.html?tp=105 Any thoughts on this head unit / speakers combo? I want a head unit with HD radio built in and a nice interface. Looks like it has nice big next track / a pause button. I like that there is an add-on amplifier you can get that is 45W RMS too. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP445A/Alpine-KTP-445A-Power-Pack.html
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Feb 12, 2017 08:58
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signalnoise posted:I know nothing about car audio, but I know my car's radio has no bluetooth, and drat it, I want bluetooth. It's a 2013 Miata, and Crutchfield is telling me basically nothing fits correctly for replacement tweeters. Do I need replacement tweeters to my sound good? Say I have 250 bucks to spend to replace both the radio thing and some amount of the speakers. Am I looking at significantly better audio over the stock poo poo? Edit: Too early for me I guess- I've had component systems before, and seemed like more trouble than it was worth to cut new spots for the tweeters. Keep in mind they usually come in a system with the mid-bass as well. savesthedayrocks fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Feb 12, 2017 |
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Feb 12, 2017 15:50
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savesthedayrocks posted:Edit: Too early for me I guess- I've had component systems before, and seemed like more trouble than it was worth to cut new spots for the tweeters. Keep in mind they usually come in a system with the mid-bass as well. They make convertible component systems where the tweeter can sit in front of the midbass or be mounted remotely. A good option if you don't want to custom mount.
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Feb 12, 2017 20:51
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I'm looking to put an aftermarket deck in an s2000 this spring. Integrating the steering wheel controls are mandatory, crutchfield is spitting out "PAC SWI-RC" to do the job. Anyone with experience with this and if its decent/provides full functionality? The other option seems to be this, which is a lot more expensive: http://www.modifry.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=18_46 Is there some reason to spring for the more expensive Modrify one? It's not clear to me why they'd make this specialized thing for just one vehicle.
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Feb 13, 2017 03:10
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CharlesM posted:https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500HD148BT/Alpine-CDE-HD148BT.html?avf=Y I had the same line of speakers (older, but same series, same size) hooked up to an Alpine CDE-102. The head unit alone got them decently loud without the amp. The speakers weren't anything special, but they were definitely an upgrade over the stock speakers in that car. Alpine's always put out solid head units and amps too.
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Feb 13, 2017 06:45
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I had the same line of speakers (older, but same series, same size) hooked up to an Alpine CDE-102. The stock speakers are 24 years old so yeah anything will be an upgrade.  Somehow they produce literally no bass.
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Feb 13, 2017 07:08
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Is this the right place to ask about other aftermarket AV stuff? Specifically I'm thinking about installing a backup camera into my 2002 CR-V (colour: champagne). Are the ones that come with the custom cover for your rear-view mirror any good or should I be looking at getting a new head unit that can display the feed? Are there any decent single-din units with backup camera integration, or is the screen too small to be useful? Should I just get a double din in if I want a rear-view cam? I already have an aftermarket single din but it's nothing special. Is there anything to look for when buying the actual camera? Edit: Would a single-din with a flip-out screen make more sense if I already have a single-din mounting kit installed?
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Feb 14, 2017 15:57
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If I wanted to get a single-din stereo because I honestly just don't need a double-din, what are my options for filling up the other slot with something functional?
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Feb 14, 2017 15:59
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