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KillHour
Oct 28, 2007





IOwnCalculus posted:

Yeah, I'd bet that diagram I posted is accurate enough then, with each of those pin pairs (1/6, 2/7, 4/9, 5/10) feeding a speaker. Theoretically you should be able to put a multimeter across each of those pin pairs and get continuity, but not with any other pair.

Given that there's no signal other than the fiber, and you've already determined that the fiber itself is good, and you're straight up getting no output, I'm inclined to think you do have a dead amp. I'd expect a wiring problem between the amp and the speakers to have at least some intermittent or partial behavior, unless somehow all four of those pairs got severed at once.

That was my exact thought. I pulled the trigger on the $40 replacement. Thanks.

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Aeka 2.0
Nov 16, 2000

Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.






Dinosaur Gum

I got your loving grounds right here

https://youtu.be/r4FVnv8qd5A

Reminds me of my first install.

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012

I write my poems in the dirt with an oily rag
I have to wear a gas mask just so I don't gag
I got a SOCOM scout and twenty extra mags
And a couple severed heads in my bug-out bag






Oh god. Suddenly I'm very proud of my 3/4 assed stereo install on basically the same mazda 6 he has. Except wagon in my case. All wires are tucked away from sight, run through factory conduits, etc. I don't have a sub though.

Nichol
May 18, 2004

Sly Dog

So good. It is like the RedLetterMedia of car stereo installs

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL


Can anyone suggest a good 12" subwoofer replacement?

I currently have one of these in a ported fiberglass sub box:
https://acd18d33-4461-49d0-9804-8fc...d7b85037046.pdf

This is my amp: https://tacotunes.com/shop/z-amps-p...atts-subwoofer/
Which I think is rated for 350w RMS. So I'm thinking it would be drop in to replace the current woofer (rated for 250RMS at 2 ohms) with something a little bigger.

The enclosure's dimensions are: 40.5 26 14 in

Would either of these be better choices?
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CV...4.html?tp=68897
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13612...4.html?tp=68897

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.


I absolutely loved my JL 10TW3 right up until it was stolen. Went with a more secure under seat Rockford Fosgate dual 8 inch set up, but it isn't the same. Someone with a little more technical knowledge can speak up, but I can find Kicker stuff in Walmart, which puts a sour taste for the brand in my mouth.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

Yes, it's like a lava lamp.



So the stereo in my 2010 Jetta has now failed for the second time in four years (and it didn't have bluetooth support to begin with) so I'm thinking it's aftermarket time, but I have no idea about where to start looking for such things. Any general recommendations on buying stereo systems? It'll be working with my android phone, but based on my limited experience with rentals that had it, Android Auto is somewhat useless anyway, despite seeming useful?

This is a dash unit only swap, not looking to touch the speaker system at all.

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.


Crutchfield is the general go to. They have amazing customer support and worth buying from even if they aren't strictly the cheapest out there. Give them a call and they can go through the whole process.

Here the advice seems to be split between getting a cheap eBay Android auto head unit and buying higher end. I'm guessing that because the mid range stuff is a horrible compromise of both.

Uncle Lizard
Sep 28, 2012


PittTheElder posted:

So the stereo in my 2010 Jetta has now failed for the second time in four years (and it didn't have bluetooth support to begin with) so I'm thinking it's aftermarket time, but I have no idea about where to start looking for such things. Any general recommendations on buying stereo systems? It'll be working with my android phone, but based on my limited experience with rentals that had it, Android Auto is somewhat useless anyway, despite seeming useful?

This is a dash unit only swap, not looking to touch the speaker system at all.

Go to Crutchfield and punch in your car information would be where I would start. Android auto on Pioneer and Kenwood is better than I have seen on any offering from a vehicle manufacturer. Even though it could be much better, I enjoy having Android auto rather than not. If you can spring the extra money get a capacitive screen instead of a resistive touch screen. If you don't listen to CDs you can save some money by getting a head unit that is a digital receiver only.

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

Yes, it's like a lava lamp.



Yeah ok, and should I be thinking of installing it myself? Or better to just pay somebody to do it for me? I am comfortable messing around with electronics general, but know next to nothing about automotive electronics.

e: Oh, and in regards to satellite radio tuners; my car has a satellite radio antenna, is there generally a tuner colocated with it up there? Or would I have to buy one separately if I wanted it to work? Low priority thing of course, I haven't bothered to pay for it in years because there seems to be very little decent content on SiriusXM but I digress.

PittTheElder fucked around with this message at 22:59 on May 22, 2020

Don Dongington
Sep 27, 2005

#ideasboom

College Slice

For common cars, crutchfield will usually be able to sell you a cable harness and fascia kit that basically makes the whole experience plug and play, as long as you're comfortable using a screwdriver and maybe a 10mm socket. I would not recommend going DIY if you have to cut into the factory wiring because basically every inexperienced person who's done this as a PO of one of my cars has done a terrible job of it.

Generally there's a YouTube guide showing you how to get the dash apart and remove the factory head unit.

Aquila
Jan 24, 2003



Don Dongington posted:

For common cars, crutchfield will usually be able to sell you a cable harness and fascia kit that basically makes the whole experience plug and play, as long as you're comfortable using a screwdriver and maybe a 10mm socket. I would not recommend going DIY if you have to cut into the factory wiring because basically every inexperienced person who's done this as a PO of one of my cars has done a terrible job of it.

Generally there's a YouTube guide showing you how to get the dash apart and remove the factory head unit.

I just did exactly this:



Everything* works. Steering wheel controls even. My first time ever installing a stereo (I however have electrical and electronics experience). I did need to cut some wires for the steering wheel controls as I could not get the pins for that out of the connector.

In addition to a philips screw driver and 10mm nut driver I would recommend a decent wire stripper and crimper, I improvised these and it was a bit of a pain.

*Everything except the stuff I saved for later, that being speakers (need a custom mounting bracket), usb (need to either find where the oem connects and get an A-B or run the one from the headunit into the glove box), mic (I'll have better access when doing the speakers), fascia (included screws weren't long enough).

Definitely watch some youtube videos specific to your car for everything you want to do. One of the easiest things to mess up can be removing trim to get at the stereo.

Coredump
Dec 1, 2002
All I'm saying is that should be enough to arouse some suspicion is all.


Hey everyone I'm back. Now its time to do the tweeters.
This is what the factory Element tweeter looks like in the car (image stolen from Crutchfield. Thank you Crutchfield)


When you get the A pillar off however the truth reveals itself



You can see the tweeter I'm planning on using up top, a Seas H1396 and the size of the grill


One hole saw and some sanding later we get this:


From the back:


Test fit in the car. Nice thing is the tweeter now points more at me than the factory one did:


Now this part I'm proud of me. I had some spare speaker grill metal from my woofers I installed earlier. So I got a wheel race and bearing in the right size and used them as forming tools to press the speaker grill into shape to go in the hole left in my A pillar


Glued in


Wired up. Thats a 25 uf capacitor inline with the tweeter.


And here's what it looks like:



Now I haven't put the tweeter back in the car just yet. With the way the Honda's factory amp is wired a full range signal is being sent to the tweeter. The old factory tweeter had a capacitor as a crossover to prevent music with too much bass hitting the tweeter. I have a capacitor on my tweeter as well. However my capacitor serves a different purpose. Its a safe guard if I get an amp pop or any sort of full range signal sent to the tweet, it will block most of the damaging bass.Here's a video that goes over that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hscMuzfyxQ4

However the capacitor doesn't block signal up to the tweeter's crossover point. For my tweeter the math works out to: 0.159/(X *3.5) = 0.000025 which means I'm blocking frequencies from ~1817 Hz and lower. Here's a page that has the specs for my tweeter. This Seas tweeter has a frankly ridiculous recommended frequency range of 2500 - 30000 hz. Its the lower range that catches me by surprise. But to make sure I don't see too low of frequency to the tweeter and damage it I plan to switch my Pioneer headunit to active mode. That will allow the Pioneer to set crossover points for the tweeters, woofers, and subwoofer in the headunit. When I do that I'll probably set the high pass filter for the tweeter at 3500 hz or there abouts. But i need to do some more wiring before I can do that. So for the moment I'm down one tweeter while I work on that. But the tweeter is ready to go when I get it done.

I have a small 4 channel amp ready to go. However I plan to install it where the factory amp is. When I do that my factory subwoofer will no longer be powered. I plan on getting the matching NVX micro class D amp as well but that will be some time down the road before it gets installed. In the meantime the plan will be to power the tweeters off the headunit and let the factory amp continue to power the front speakers in the doors.

Coredump fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Jun 6, 2020

STR
May 12, 2006

I thought I was a nice jester


PittTheElder posted:

e: Oh, and in regards to satellite radio tuners; my car has a satellite radio antenna, is there generally a tuner colocated with it up there? Or would I have to buy one separately if I wanted it to work? Low priority thing of course, I haven't bothered to pay for it in years because there seems to be very little decent content on SiriusXM but I digress.

Late the the party, but... You need an add-on tuner, and the factory satellite antenna likely won't plug in.

A streaming-only SiriusXM account is considerably cheaper these days (can get the first 3 months free, then threaten to cancel; they'll usually throw out a $30 for 6 months offer pretty quickly.. and they'll actually tell you to call back every 6 months to get the same deal), assuming you have unlimited data or you're on a plan that exempts music streaming from your data caps (such as an older T-Mobile plan).

All SiriusXM cares about these days is subscriber count, even if they're almost giving it away.

TBH the playlists on many of the stations are stale as hell, Howard Stern is really the only reason to get SiriusXM these days. And he's getting ready to retire anyway.

STR fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Jun 8, 2020

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Is their audio quality any better than it used to be?

STR
May 12, 2006

I thought I was a nice jester


On the default "normal" audio quality it's pretty meh. There's also High and Maximum. Maximum sounds downright decent, High sounds.... a bit better than normal.

I had occasional buffering issues on Maximum. I'm on a T-Mobile plan that has unlimited music/video streaming; normally they force the streaming provider to downgrade down to 128kbps audio, but they don't seem to do that with Sirius. Or didn't last year, anyway. And they don't offer those plans anymore; I'm clinging to this plan as long as I can.

STR fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Jun 8, 2020

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

Yes, it's like a lava lamp.



STR posted:

Late the the party, but... You need an add-on tuner, and the factory satellite antenna likely won't plug in.

A streaming-only SiriusXM account is considerably cheaper these days (can get the first 3 months free, then threaten to cancel; they'll usually throw out a $30 for 6 months offer pretty quickly.. and they'll actually tell you to call back every 6 months to get the same deal), assuming you have unlimited data or you're on a plan that exempts music streaming from your data caps (such as an older T-Mobile plan).

All SiriusXM cares about these days is subscriber count, even if they're almost giving it away.

TBH the playlists on many of the stations are stale as hell, Howard Stern is really the only reason to get SiriusXM these days. And he's getting ready to retire anyway.

Yea the only reason I had it at all was for long Canadian highway drives, where things like radio and data connections generally don't exist. But I could never find much worth listening to, and then even worse they would run constant commercials for the station I was already listening to.

But yeah thanks for the heads up.

Coredump
Dec 1, 2002
All I'm saying is that should be enough to arouse some suspicion is all.


Back again. At this point my front door speakers and tweeters have been installed.

Remember these:


Here's another pic of the forming "tools" i used to get the tweeter grill shape:

Cut out a circle of speaker grill, put it between the bearing cage (minus bearings) and race and use a bench vise and some 2x4's and you can form the shape. I made pie cuts where the grill material began to bunch up.

And here is a pic of the tweeter installed in the car:


My factory Honda amp outputs to front channel, rear channel, and sub. I've gone full active so my speakers are powered thusly; tweeters run off headunit power, front woofers run off the factory front channel of the amp, however that channel of the amp is plugged into the headunit's rear channel output, which becomes the woofer output in active mode. Subwoofer stays the same.

Then tonight I got my pioneer home theater receiver microphone and with the help of a 80's style exercise headband, put the mic on my forehead and let the headunit do time alignment for each speaker, signal sweeps to set crossovers, then output test to set speaker sound level, and finally set the subwoofer phase. After the headunit got done I did some manual tweaks to the crossover point between my woofers and tweeters. But now the headunit knows where the speakers are physically located in my car relative to where I sit in the passenger seat and can now focus the sound on the driver's seat, the passenger's seat, or the midpoint in between. Its pretty neat to hear the sound bounce around going through the different time alignment presets once the speakers got measured.

Powering the tweeters off the headunit's internal amp brings up a funny situation. Pretty much any headunit's built-in amp to power speakers will put out middling power, we're talking 12 watts continuous power if we're lucky. To put this in contrast the micro 4 channel amp I have ready to install claims roughly 50 watts continuous power (75 watts rms at 4 ohms at 14.4v if we're being specific). But even with the tweeters being powered off the headunit the auto eq set them to -6db for left tweet and -7db for the right tweet. And I have to agree them things were singing before the auto eq. But at this point all the speakers I plan on replacing for now are installed. Hooray!

STR
May 12, 2006

I thought I was a nice jester


I know at one point, Appradio was THE thing.

How has it aged? Roommate gave me his 2015 Pioneer double DIN head unit, and it has Appradio support. I've heard of issues past Android 8 (my phone runs 10). Haven't bothered hooking the phone up to it yet. Not a big deal if it won't play nice, free is free. And I may wind up going back to my 2018 Kenwood in the end (aptX, dual USB on the back so a nice place to power my dashcam, HD Radio tuner). The touchscreen is nice, but I'm already missing having actual buttons (this does have volume buttons though).

Specifically, it's the AVH-X4800BS.

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012

I write my poems in the dirt with an oily rag
I have to wear a gas mask just so I don't gag
I got a SOCOM scout and twenty extra mags
And a couple severed heads in my bug-out bag






I found app radio to be a steaming turd that didn't work when I tried it. Granted I may need to give it another shot now that I have the ground wire handbrake bodge done.

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STR
May 12, 2006

I thought I was a nice jester


Yeah I just spent half an hour just getting my phone to work with it, and it absolutely does not like QHD display phones. I can't type anything on the stereo when it's in appradio mode (it thinks I'm 1-2 letters away on the keyboard, depending how far away I am from the center of the screen). Only 2 navigation apps that still work with it, and I can't type on them (they both blank out the phone itself, so there's no inputting it on the phone to get around that limitation). It's also insanely laggy.

Probably gonna go ahead and just use the rear USB port to power my dashcam and forget about Appradio.

The head unit's screen is properly calibrated.

I did find an upside. It doesn't do aptX, but it does do some kind of higher end codec instead of just SBC - my phone shows the HD Audio option for streaming when connected to it (probably AAC? if it was aptX I would get a "Powered by Qualcomm aptX" popup when it connected; not sure aptX even existed in 2015). Streaming sounds fine on it. Phone calls seem to sound better than they did on the Kenwood, though that was just a couple of test calls to my voicemail.

Why the gently caress can't they standardize on either 2.5mm or 3.5mm for the loving microphone already?! I didn't feel like tearing the dash and pillar apart to run yet another new mic, so I just snipped the wire at both ends, tucked it away, and ran a new mic to the top of the steering column.

At least it's wired properly, with a proper adapter harness, instead of this mess that I encountered removing it from roommate's old car:



Remembered to hook up the antenna amplifier this time too.

e: gently caress Sygic, loving thing is keeping GPS active - my phone battery has dropped 30% in the past hour when it can normally go 2-3 days with light usage. Just uninstalled everything related to Appradio.

STR fucked around with this message at 09:35 on Jun 21, 2020

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