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some texas redneck posted:The in-line modulators aren't going to sound as good as a real 3.5mm or RCA connection, but the in-line ones used by satellite radio kits aren't bad. Probably the best option if you're going to keep the factory head unit. Honestly the difference between a good FM modulator and an auxiliary input is so small you're well into the splitting hairs territory on 90% of factory systems. I used one on the 2007 Malibu I had as a company car (an aftermarket headunit was out of the question due to the required dash adapter, and the stock stereo had no provision for an auxiliary adapter) and I honestly couldn't tell the difference between running my MP3 player on it or in my Focus with an aftermarket headunit w/aux in. MonkeyNutZ posted:I was looking into going headunitless in about a decade when I finish my project car. I found a few threads about just using cheap class T amps but I'd love to hear what AI has to say. If all you do is listen to an MP3 player/smartphone and don't mind not having a clock in your dash or advanced connectivity like A2DP or reading direct from USB splicing a cheap amp into the factory harness should work fine. You could also get clever with anti-theft measures and leave a mess of wires hanging out of the dashboard where the stereo would be, giving the appearance that your stereo had already been stolen.
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Dec 5, 2012 06:36
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Karthe posted:What's the current state of interaction between head units and Android devices via USB? I'm switching from an iOS phone to an Android phone in a few months and am curious if I'll be able to control playback from it just fine, or if I should upgrade to a head unit that has Bluetooth. Honestly I'd just get a head unit that supports blue tooth. Its not like it adds much/anything to the price (its basically a standard feature now) and as stated is much more cross compatible. When I had a company car at my last job w/Sync (Ford Fusion) I loaded my music collection on a 8GB thumb drive that just lived in the USB port, and used my Android phone for webcasts over A2DP because it was easier to download them on the phone than pull the thumb drive and put it in a computer.
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Dec 6, 2012 06:56
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Motronic posted:My question about that as a viable setup would be appropriate software (would have to be something purposed designed for this as the requirements while driving are much different than those while using it "as designed"), the ability to send A2DP to it/through it (play things off of your phone or iPod), and if there's any possibility of bluetooth handsfree integration. The Nexus 7 (and similar low-priced tablets) would make a so-so choice for ICE because they lack external memory and you'd be tied to the tablet's limited internal memory (at least without doing a major workaround with adapters and a full-size USB hub.) Otherwise pretty much everything else you asked about is either available out of the box or can be done with apps...not 100% on sending files to the device via bluetooth, however with the correct file manager its possible to view shared files on a computer network if you know how to set things up on the server side via a wireless network. Apparently there are Android powered headunits in the works that would make this a lot easier (ie, gently caress fiberglassing a 7" tablet into your dashboard.)
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Dec 14, 2012 03:18
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Lowclock posted:Not really. You can connect whatever through USB, but you need an app or a hack and a USB OTG cable, not a normal one. Geoj posted:(at least without doing a major workaround with adapters and a full-size USB hub.)
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Dec 14, 2012 03:48
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Motronic posted:I'm talking about pressing a button that allows the audio from my A2DP paired device to output audio to whatever the tablet is attached to. If you want to stream audio off of your phone it would be a lot easier to just install a bluetooth capable headunit and pair the phone to it instead of going through the trouble of custom-mounting a tablet in your dashboard.
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Dec 15, 2012 03:17
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Motronic posted:You're missing the point I'm making: I'm looking for it all. If you're saying a tablet can do that then tell me what I run on it. I think its theoretically possible, but you'd pretty much have to commission an app developer to write an app that would turn an android device into a bluetooth audio receiver. The user base would be extremely limited so I doubt anyone is going to do it because of demand. FWIW what you're describing is kind of like asking "I just installed a really nice head unit with a built-in CD player, now how do I play my portable CD player through it?" The tablet already has the capability to play music files, so its a bit confusing why you'd care about streaming through it off of your phone.
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Dec 15, 2012 18:44
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Motronic posted:So when I want some other music I do what.....pull up to my house to grab a wifi signal to sync it/download other music? Yes. Like I already said, there are file managers available in the Google Play store that are capable of viewing shared folders on a computer network. Steer the manager to the IP of the host system, find your music directory, select the files you want and copy/paste to your tablet's internal memory. e: The nexus 7 (and other similar lower priced tablets) lack external storage. The only work-around is to run the tablet off of a USB hub that has a microUSB connector at one end and a full-size USB male connector at the other, allowing you to charge the device through the hub and plug in other devices (in this case, a USB thumbdrive or SD adapter.) VVV Geoj fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Dec 16, 2012 |
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Dec 16, 2012 00:15
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I think the easiest/most cost effective method to do what he wants to do is buy a headunit with bluetooth A2DP (literally all but the cheapest headunits on the market have it as a standard feature) and forget about mounting the tablet in the dash, and instead get a car mount for the tablet.
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Dec 16, 2012 01:57
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??? Its a suction cup to the windshield/plastic disc stuck to the dashboard mounting device. Really couldn't be simpler v0v
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Dec 16, 2012 02:24
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Crutchfield doesn't list a separate model for the Mazdaspeed Protege, but assuming the MSP and the normal Protege use the same dashboard (highly likely) they should include this adapter with whatever you buy (free if you spend at least $120 on the headunit.) It appears that the Protege can support up to a double DIN headunit.
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Dec 16, 2012 09:43
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Knyteguy posted:I like this idea, but how would you hook this up to your car speakers? Would you sacrifice sound quality? Wire an amplifier directly into the car's wiring harness, and then plug the tablet into the amplifier with a 3.5mm stereo to RCA cable. Depending on how much you spend on the amp you could actually have better sound quality than with a headunit of the same price.
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Dec 18, 2012 01:15
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b0nes posted:My brother has a Pioneer head unit and the USB port has stopped working. Is it possible to get it fixed or will he need a whole new unit? Right now he is just sing the aux in. [/quote] If the port has come unsoldered from its board (and you can disassemble the headunit enough to get it out) you might try re-flowing the solder, either with a soldering iron or masking off the rest of the board with aluminum foil and dropping it in a toaster oven for 5-10 minutes. How old is it/any chance of getting it fixed/replaced under warranty? b0nes posted:Also can you replace the faceplate with one found on Ebay? Depends on if there are security measures in place that specifically join the faceplate to the rest of the unit, and even then it may not work if the problem lies upstream from the port itself (USB controller or power supply may be shot.) Honestly with USB being a standard feature on all but the cheapest of head units now he's probably best off just buying a new one.
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Jan 4, 2013 05:19
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Noni posted:Will Pioneer send me one? Depends on how old it is. If its a current design they shouldn't have much of a problem doing so, but if its an older design that's been out of production for a while you'll probably have more difficulty getting one.
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Feb 6, 2013 01:17
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Kachunkachunk posted:I have some doubts that the heat/cold of a typical year will work out okay for SSDs, but I know some nav-equipped head units have hard drives. Maybe they're geared for temperature extremes. SSDs have a huge operational temperature range, most manufacturers publish a maximum operating temperature of at least +60* C (and they're tolerant of even higher temperatures - near the boiling point - when not in use) and its highly unlikely that anyone will encounter cold enough temperatures to bother them unless you're driving at the poles on a record-setting low day. There might be some minor concern if you live in a desert climate and routinely park your car in full sun with the windows up, but generally if a HDD can survive in a car a SSD shouldn't have any problems doing so - they have the advantage of no moving parts and shock resistance in the neighborhood of something that would physically destroy the drive. In simpler terms - think about a USB thumbdrive. Would you bat an eye at using one or leaving one in a car? SSDs are essentially bigger versions built with better components and a different data connector. Geoj fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Feb 27, 2013 |
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Feb 27, 2013 07:07
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MikeyTsi posted:Bose, much like Monster Cable, is a masterpiece of marketing over quality. I thought Bose was more of a case of "hey we used to be good in the mid 90s and are just riding on our name at this point," whereas Monster Cable has always been full of poo poo.
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Jul 16, 2013 20:35
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Continuing the Bluetooth tangent, I recently picked up this Bluetooth receiver from Amazon. Works fine for A2DP but it's lacking HFP for voice calls. Does anyone know of a similar unit that has the HFP stack? The ones I'm finding with both almost all have to be manually turned on. TL;DR looking for a Bluetooth receiver that can do A2DP & HFP, can be buried under the dash and doesn't require a button to be pushed to activate.
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Apr 23, 2015 00:33
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Godholio posted:Modulators generally suck. Are you possibly thinking of an FM transmitter? I've used modulators in the past and it's almost indistinguishable from an auxiliary line in as far as audio quality is concerned. 22 Eargesplitten posted:Okay. Is there any reason to get a cheap aux-equipped stereo over the OEM stereo for my model? I have a stereo the PO put in right now, would that make it hard to go back? The speakers are all stock. All but the cheapest head units come with Bluetooth, USB and/or line in as standard options now. If you would use any of those features I'd say it's worth the price difference. Difficulty going back to OEM will depend on how well the PO installed the current stereo - if he used harness adapters it should be as simple as unplugging the adapter and plugging in the OEM stereo. If not...well, if he spliced the head unit pigtail into the factory loom it won't be fun, and returning to OEM will require obtaining the factory harnesses to attach the OEM stereo.
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Jun 16, 2015 18:03
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I put a KDC-162U in my sister's Focus a few months ago, only real complaint I had is the display isn't dimmable and since the characters are white it's a bit much at night. Esoteric complaints, can't customize display or button colors and I'd rather have the USB and line in ports in the back of the unit so you can squirrel cables or a thumb drive away behind the dash or in the glovebox. e: if you care about display color you might want to spend an extra $10 and get a KDC-HD262U. Geoj fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jun 23, 2015 |
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Jun 23, 2015 18:27
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I dont want to spend 100 bucks+ to get aux though. I ran out of people to ask for second hand ones. You're only going to pay over $100 if you buy one from BestBuy or similar massively overpriced retail chain. Quick check of Amazon shows they're averaging between $30-40. Varies depending on make & model, sometimes you need antenna cable adapters if your car's maker uses a proprietary antenna connector. Also don't worry about audio quality unless you have a substantial sum invested in aftermarket speakers and amps. You probably won't even be able to tell with a factory headunit and speakers.
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Nov 1, 2015 00:16
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Megasabin posted:I'm tired of using an Aux cable, so I'm looking for a decent car dashboard/radio system that can integrate with my iphone via bluetooth. Does anyone have any recommendations for one? Also does car type matter or will any system work with any car? This depends on what you want. If you're just after the A2DP stack (audio from media sources) there are plenty of bluetooth receivers that can be shoehorned into a glovebox, center console or stuffed under the dashboard and powered by a USB charger. If you want full functionality (ie, audio from media sources, voice control of the phone, phone calls, etc) things get substantially more complicated and expensive. Megasabin posted:Also does car type matter or will any system work with any car? This largely depends on the car. Most vehicles built in this decade have largely integrated the factory ICE equipment into the dashboard and have also included ancillary functions (like external thermometer displays, HVAC controls, trip computers, hands-free phone systems & in-dash navigation) to the point where you have to choose between giving up functionality or paying as much/more than a decent aftermarket headunit for adapters that allow you to retain these functions.
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Dec 12, 2016 23:34
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Megasabin posted:I have the option of putting it in a 2013 Chevy Spark or a 2006 Minicooper. I'd prefer to buy a headunit that can go in either. Only hangup here is the Mini uses a single-DIN stereo while the Spark has space for a double-DIN stereo. This reduces your options for things like in-dash navigation/video and/or headunits that support Android Auto/Apple CarPlay. Otherwise doesn't look like there's any hangups with the stereo being heavily integrated into the dash with either. Seconding the Crutchfield suggestion...generally speaking if you can use a screwdriver, maybe a socket set and know how to do basic wiring you should be able to handle the install.
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Dec 13, 2016 22:13
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jackpot posted:Looking to get a bluetooth adapter for my car, something like this. I've put two Amazon Basics bluetooth receivers in my car and my wife's car. Works extremely well, and since its input voltage is 5 VDC it will run off of a USB charger if you either splice the barrel connector from the power supply that comes with it onto the "A" side of a USB cable, or buy a USB to 4.0 x 1.7mm barrel connector cable. Only real drawbacks are you have to push a button to put it into pair mode (so you can't bury it under the dash somewhere) and it will only pair to one device at a time (have to put it into pair mode if you want to use a different device.) Otherwise no complaints.
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Feb 21, 2017 01:47
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mariooncrack posted:Why not just use an aux cable? I used one like that for awhile and I got sick of it dying on me while I was driving. In my case I put my phone in a dock on the far left of the windshield and installing the BT receiver was easier than dragging a stereo cable under the dash and up through a gap. Also now I don't have to plug the phone in twice - connect the charging cable that's attached to the dock and I'm good to go.
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Feb 21, 2017 18:06
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Martytoof posted:I have an 08 Mazda 3. I’ve been happy enough with my stock HU and aux input from my iPhone. That is, until I upgraded from my old iPhone to an 8 with no 3.5mm jack. Now I’m looking for a decent BT -> Aux converter. I've been using one of these for about two years now in conjunction with a mid-2000s head unit that doesn't have built-in Bluetooth. You'll either need a 1.7 x 4.0 barrel to USB cable or else splice the barrel connector on the included AC wall wart onto a USB A cable, and then power it off of a USB charger/power supply. Only major downside is you can only pair one device at a time, and pairing requires you to push a small button on the back to place the device into pair mode. Once paired it has no problem remembering a device. Geoj fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Feb 26, 2018 |
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Feb 26, 2018 20:33
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Alternative solution: if the tuner and tape deck feed into the equalizer before running to the speakers (and its not all just some inter-connected unit) you could probably tie in an auxiliary input in, and then use a bluetooth receiver or 1/8" stereo cable to feed it audio from whatever source. e: just noticed the equalizer function switch has "AUX" at the bottom - if there isn't an input somewhere in the RV you might find an unused connector inside the cabinet. Geoj fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Mar 5, 2018 |
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Mar 5, 2018 17:31
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Is one harness for the barebone option stereo, and the other for the premium audio option? Usually factory installed premium audio has extra wires run to the headunit.
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Mar 13, 2018 19:04
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My guess would be a long, flat piece of metal is what you're after. Insert into the corner rectangular holes, and it will push a catch piece out of the way that allows the stereo to slide out. I've used trimmed pieces of steel strap banding (usually used to secure loads to pallets in warehouses) to pull aftermarket single DIN units out that I lost the extraction tools for. You might also be able to buy a piece of thin aluminum bar stock from the hardware store that will fit into the opening.
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Apr 3, 2018 21:34
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STR posted:I just realized something that I should have mentioned initially. Coming at it from the opposite side of the spectrum, would a double SIM phone work instead?
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Oct 20, 2018 21:11
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One is for work, one is personal.
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STR posted:Stupid question, are stereo thefts still that common? A lot of pawn shops no longer accept head units thanks to them being hot too often. I would have to believe car stereo thefts have all but fallen off the charts. The move away from a standard form factor head unit to proprietary equipment with little hardware commonality between models, and largely burying the equipment deep under the dashboard making theft prohibitively difficult should have eliminated both supply and demand for stolen equipment.
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Oct 25, 2018 18:08
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Opinions/suggestions on under-seat subwoofers...? I'd like to add a little extra bass but give no fucks about sick bass drops or making windows rattle for blocks in all directions. Vehicle in question is an '08.5 MS3, not considering the factory Bose under-seat sub, from my understanding its lower quality than what Walmart sells. e: car came with non-premium audio and has an aftermarket head unit with preamp outs so no fuckery there. Geoj fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Dec 3, 2018 |
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Dec 3, 2018 18:49
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Usually Ford stereos of that era require you to insert the tools and then pull them outwards. So push them in, then pull to the left and right and you should hear a click or pop as the catch disengages, then using the tools as handles pull the stereo out of the dash. If you can get the stock stereo out without breaking the dash surrounding it via other methods you should be fine though.
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Dec 10, 2018 23:51
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Thinking there may have been some advanced for its time features like adaptive volume or steering wheel controls I did a casual Google search and found this: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/some-vital-info-about-your-mach-460-1000.538244/ TL;DR according to a self-described EE the way the stock stereo system was wired can best be described as  If the aftermarket system works with all that stuff disconnected I wouldn't worry about it.
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Mar 1, 2019 02:49
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If you remove the adapter do the rear speakers function? Alternatively, when was the last time you knew the rear speakers were working?
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Apr 9, 2019 00:36
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Bluetooth lacks the bandwidth to drive the video display (Android Auto basically uses the head unit screen as an external display and input device, there's little actual logic taking place on the head unit), so wireless would require use of WiFi. Which destroys battery when your device is constantly transmitting - rendering it useful only for brief trips.
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May 2, 2019 00:02
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toplitzin posted:I thought that was the point of the Maestro/iDatalink units. Maybe with a different head unit: https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Digital+Media+Receivers/MVH-2400NEX#specs quote:The MVH-2400NEX supports factory functions via the iDatalink Maestro RR interface including: Steering Wheel Controls, Media Player (including the factory AUX-in and USB ports), Hands-Free Telephone, Voice Commands, Satellite Radio, and Secondary Display Support. Doesn't mention anything about trip computer functions.
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Jun 4, 2019 16:11
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I would assume "secondary display" is just that - e: the closest thing on that list is "view and modify vehicle settings." e2: after some digging "secondary display" in this context would be some kind of LCD/VFD screen in the gauge cluster. So it should retain those functions...uncertain if they would be duplicated on the headunit if the trip computer is typically handled through the OEM stereo though. Geoj fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Jun 4, 2019 |
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Jun 4, 2019 16:30
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Was Bose good at some point and have been resting on their laurels for the last 30-odd years, or have they always done nothing but sell garbage to rubes?
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Oct 10, 2019 18:48
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