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wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

leica posted:

So I've been thinking about keeping the stock head unit in my '97 Miata because it sounds pretty good and I want to keep things as low key/stealth as possible. The problem is I bought some Alpine 6.5 coax speakers with 80 watts RMS and I'm afraid they may over work the stock "amp" if you want to call it that.....I'm not even sure how powerful, if at all, the stock amp is, so I'm going to need some sort of line output converter like this:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142LOC80/Scosche-LOC80.html?tp=2001

Anyone ever use one of these? Do they actually work well, or should I forget about trying to make my stock unit work with these speakers? If there is another way to do it I'm all ears.

[edit] Actually, this looks like a better but more expensive option:

http://www.amazon.com/LC2i-Audiocon...io+control+lc2i

The only way aftermarket speakers would "overwork" a stock HU is because of an impedance mismatch. The RMS spec on speakers indicates how much they can handle, not how much they take to work.

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wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

The HK unit is garbage, you're not missing anything.

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell


The Kenwood isn't quite as hideous as the Clarion units, I'd go with it. I've run Kenwood decks for years with no complaints.

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

Panda Bear posted:

Why do goons like crutchfield so much? Is it the site/selection? I'm just about fed up with them. I've only ordered from them twice ever and for the second time they totally spaced on shipping my order for a week and I had to call for them to overnight it, even though both times I received an email saying that my items were "shipped" (ie a UPS label was printed out for them and they were promptly forgotten about). I'm at the point where I'm thinking of asking for a refund or something because truth be told I would not have given them more of my money if I knew that they'd take two weeks to get my order to me again.

I guess because they used to be the only game in town. I was ordering from them in the mid 90's but can find the same stuff on Amazon for cheaper now.

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

I'm going to upgrade the crappy system in my new-to-me Cayman. So far, I'm looking at CDT Pro 4" components, and I want to run shallow mount 8" subs in the doors as well. I don't have any experience with shallow-mount stuff, does anybody have any advice?

I'm also getting the Pioneer-AVH-X3600BHS if the Appradio is as good as it seems. This unit is supposed to be 50W RMS power, but I'm considering buying a ~100W per channel amplifier to run the components instead. I'm not replacing the rear speakers and will run them from the head unit. I don't have a ton of space, are the new Class D full-range amps any good? I have a little 400W two-channel Punch amp to run the subs that I bought in 1999. It might be time to replace it too.

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

MrCodeDude posted:

I built a ice-chest speaker awhile back and it's worked well thus far, but the bass heavy songs definitely start to distort at higher volumes.

Current configuration is an Alpine MRV-F300 powering a pair of 6x9s and a pair of 6.5"s.

If I replaced both the 6.5"s with a subwoofer, would that help with the distortion?

You need more power. 6x9's are thirsty and prone to distortion anyway because of the oval shape. I'd keep the 6.5's and bridge both channels into an 8" subwoofer. It's what I did on my cooler speaker rig, except I used a 12" because I had it just lying around.

Probably still need more power.

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

MrCodeDude posted:

Keep the 6.5s in over the 6x9s?

If I need more power, would it make more sense to bridge the four channels to the two 6.5s (or 6x9s) and forego a subwoofer? Or should I be looking for a new amp?

I don't think that the 50W output can adequately power the 6x9's. Easiest route is to get a new amp to power all four speakers adequately vs. cutting new holes. The 6x9's would probably be good in bridged mode with the current amp but you couldn't power the 6.5's. Decisions, decisions.

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

Scrapez posted:

I would add a subwoofer. Keep in mind that it's going to create a lot of pressure in the cooler. When I built mine I had a pair of DC Gold 4s and a Polk Momo 12. Powered by a audiobahn a6601x I had laying around bridged to 220x3.

I ended up having to use ratchet straps to keep the cooler lid sealed well due to the power of the sub.

It was all in a 120 quart igloo with the pneumatic wheel attachment. Worked great but I tore it apart as it never got used.

Edit: the one I built before that was a pair of 10" DC Gold speakers (Babb at that time). They reproduced all frequencies and are waterproof. Used that one for rafting/floating and it was amazing.

A little spendy as the dc gold 10s are around $350 a pair. That one was in a 100 quart igloo. Worked great.

Forgot about the pressure part. I have turnbuckles on mine to keep the lid down.

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

doogle posted:

I had an awful popping sound over the arbitrary volume of around 20 on my head unit so I replaced the speakers thinking they were blown. While I was replacing them I noticed that behind the head unit the front L and R speaker positives were spliced together with vampire clips. I removed the vampire clips and all is well. Is there a reason that someone did this?

Because they were an idiot?

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

SynMoo posted:

In what scenario would I want my subwoofer 180 deg. out of phase with the rest of the system?

0% of scenarios.

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

Humerus posted:

I currently drive a 2006 Toyota Corolla (color is blue with rust highlights). It has an in-dash 6 CD changer from the factory, but it basically never gets used. Shortly after I bought the car (2011) I installed an iPod adapter that allowed me to plug in an iPod and control it through the buttons on the radio, with artist/track name display and everything. That was great for a while but I've pretty much moved on to streaming via my Android phone these days. The adapter also has a regular aux in, so that's what I've been using, but I think it's time for an upgrade.

Ideally I'd get an Android Auto head unit, but spending $500 or so on this car seems kind of not worth it. I've seen a lot of head units with touchscreens that tout App Control or something similar, will that let me fire up Google Play Music and control it through the head unit? And if that's not possible, what solution would you recommend? At minimum, I want to see the track title and artist, and be able to skip songs from the head unit, rather than the phone.

I assume replacing the head unit means losing my 6 CD changer, that's fine, but I guess I still want a CD player, as I get the feeling there's not a huge price difference in units with and without CD players.

Thanks for any advice.

Probably the cheapest and easiest way to get playback controls and track info on the head unit is via Bluetooth.

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

Javid posted:

Tell me about travel trailer audio:



Is this a standard size I can look for replacement head units in? My dad wants to swap it for something that can at least play CDs.

Hoo boy.

Best bet is to make a new wooden panel to go in that spot and mount a decent head unit, it's what I did in mine because factory stock was lowest-bidder Jensen-brand garbage. RV stuff all seems to be nonstandard sizes, unfortunately. I bought a 1.5 DIN Kenwood DVD/Bluetooth touchscreen unit that does well. It has the standard 25Wx4 RMS power and enough inputs to juggle the TV audio as well. I mounted two JVC home theater satellite speakers inside at the factory ceiling locations and two 6.5" Infiniti Marine speakers outside. I use the fader on the head unit to switch outputs between inside and out, with a Rockford Fosgate slim-mount 10" subwoofer and 350W amplifier under the master bed to make it sound really good. The amplifier has a fused connection directly to the RV battery and has the turn-on lead wired to the head unit.

It's going to be custom work. My travel trailer is two years old and didn't have a wiring diagram, but I traced it out.

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wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

bawfuls posted:

I've since verified there are only two speakers in the car, which is fine. Should I look for a 2-stage speaker? A quick perusal on Crutchfield shows lots of options for 2-stage speaker pairs under $50.

I also saw that Crutchfield says they are 5.25" speakers, but I just pulled a panel off the inside and measured them myself. They are more like 4.5" which doesn't appear to be a standard size. 5.25" is about the distance across the furthest corners of the housing, from the outside of one bolt hole to the outside of the opposite one diagonally. Is this how speakers are measured? 4" is the diameter of the actual speaker cone.



Taking the old speaker into a big box store to compare the size and hole pattern directly sounds like a good plan.

They use the diameter of the mounting ring for the size.

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