leica posted:So I've been thinking about keeping the stock head unit in my '97 Miata because it sounds pretty good and I want to keep things as low key/stealth as possible. The problem is I bought some Alpine 6.5 coax speakers with 80 watts RMS and I'm afraid they may over work the stock "amp" if you want to call it that.....I'm not even sure how powerful, if at all, the stock amp is, so I'm going to need some sort of line output converter like this: The only way aftermarket speakers would "overwork" a stock HU is because of an impedance mismatch. The RMS spec on speakers indicates how much they can handle, not how much they take to work.
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# ¿ Apr 5, 2013 09:11 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 15:39 |
The HK unit is garbage, you're not missing anything.
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2013 10:09 |
Rhyno posted:Sorry, I wasn't thinking honestly. The Kenwood isn't quite as hideous as the Clarion units, I'd go with it. I've run Kenwood decks for years with no complaints.
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# ¿ May 13, 2013 01:02 |
Panda Bear posted:Why do goons like crutchfield so much? Is it the site/selection? I'm just about fed up with them. I've only ordered from them twice ever and for the second time they totally spaced on shipping my order for a week and I had to call for them to overnight it, even though both times I received an email saying that my items were "shipped" (ie a UPS label was printed out for them and they were promptly forgotten about). I'm at the point where I'm thinking of asking for a refund or something because truth be told I would not have given them more of my money if I knew that they'd take two weeks to get my order to me again. I guess because they used to be the only game in town. I was ordering from them in the mid 90's but can find the same stuff on Amazon for cheaper now.
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# ¿ Nov 2, 2013 19:56 |
I'm going to upgrade the crappy system in my new-to-me Cayman. So far, I'm looking at CDT Pro 4" components, and I want to run shallow mount 8" subs in the doors as well. I don't have any experience with shallow-mount stuff, does anybody have any advice? I'm also getting the Pioneer-AVH-X3600BHS if the Appradio is as good as it seems. This unit is supposed to be 50W RMS power, but I'm considering buying a ~100W per channel amplifier to run the components instead. I'm not replacing the rear speakers and will run them from the head unit. I don't have a ton of space, are the new Class D full-range amps any good? I have a little 400W two-channel Punch amp to run the subs that I bought in 1999. It might be time to replace it too.
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2014 08:00 |
MrCodeDude posted:I built a ice-chest speaker awhile back and it's worked well thus far, but the bass heavy songs definitely start to distort at higher volumes. You need more power. 6x9's are thirsty and prone to distortion anyway because of the oval shape. I'd keep the 6.5's and bridge both channels into an 8" subwoofer. It's what I did on my cooler speaker rig, except I used a 12" because I had it just lying around. Probably still need more power.
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2016 03:58 |
MrCodeDude posted:Keep the 6.5s in over the 6x9s? I don't think that the 50W output can adequately power the 6x9's. Easiest route is to get a new amp to power all four speakers adequately vs. cutting new holes. The 6x9's would probably be good in bridged mode with the current amp but you couldn't power the 6.5's. Decisions, decisions.
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2016 05:50 |
Scrapez posted:I would add a subwoofer. Keep in mind that it's going to create a lot of pressure in the cooler. When I built mine I had a pair of DC Gold 4s and a Polk Momo 12. Powered by a audiobahn a6601x I had laying around bridged to 220x3. Forgot about the pressure part. I have turnbuckles on mine to keep the lid down.
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# ¿ Apr 23, 2016 17:09 |
doogle posted:I had an awful popping sound over the arbitrary volume of around 20 on my head unit so I replaced the speakers thinking they were blown. While I was replacing them I noticed that behind the head unit the front L and R speaker positives were spliced together with vampire clips. I removed the vampire clips and all is well. Is there a reason that someone did this? Because they were an idiot?
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# ¿ May 1, 2016 15:13 |
SynMoo posted:In what scenario would I want my subwoofer 180 deg. out of phase with the rest of the system? 0% of scenarios.
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# ¿ Mar 2, 2017 07:14 |
Humerus posted:I currently drive a 2006 Toyota Corolla (color is blue with rust highlights). It has an in-dash 6 CD changer from the factory, but it basically never gets used. Shortly after I bought the car (2011) I installed an iPod adapter that allowed me to plug in an iPod and control it through the buttons on the radio, with artist/track name display and everything. That was great for a while but I've pretty much moved on to streaming via my Android phone these days. The adapter also has a regular aux in, so that's what I've been using, but I think it's time for an upgrade. Probably the cheapest and easiest way to get playback controls and track info on the head unit is via Bluetooth.
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# ¿ May 29, 2017 01:30 |
Javid posted:Tell me about travel trailer audio: Hoo boy. Best bet is to make a new wooden panel to go in that spot and mount a decent head unit, it's what I did in mine because factory stock was lowest-bidder Jensen-brand garbage. RV stuff all seems to be nonstandard sizes, unfortunately. I bought a 1.5 DIN Kenwood DVD/Bluetooth touchscreen unit that does well. It has the standard 25Wx4 RMS power and enough inputs to juggle the TV audio as well. I mounted two JVC home theater satellite speakers inside at the factory ceiling locations and two 6.5" Infiniti Marine speakers outside. I use the fader on the head unit to switch outputs between inside and out, with a Rockford Fosgate slim-mount 10" subwoofer and 350W amplifier under the master bed to make it sound really good. The amplifier has a fused connection directly to the RV battery and has the turn-on lead wired to the head unit. It's going to be custom work. My travel trailer is two years old and didn't have a wiring diagram, but I traced it out.
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# ¿ Mar 5, 2018 05:32 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 15:39 |
bawfuls posted:I've since verified there are only two speakers in the car, which is fine. Should I look for a 2-stage speaker? A quick perusal on Crutchfield shows lots of options for 2-stage speaker pairs under $50. They use the diameter of the mounting ring for the size.
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# ¿ Apr 13, 2018 20:34 |