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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





destructo posted:

I see a fair amount of cheap T-amps on eBay, worthwhile?

I have an eBay T-amp driving a couple of cheapass bookshelf speakers in my garage. It actually sounds pretty damned good and can get plenty loud.

I have this exact one, bought it two+ years ago off of a different seller, and it's driving a couple of these for reference.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Is the "1/8 stereo" a bit more like this?



That's the actual antenna signal wire. The only wire in your harness for the antenna is to automatically raise/lower a power antenna as needed.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





LloydDobler posted:

Bose is all super low impedance so you can't just use any speaker with them. Gotta be Bose.

Yep, this is the giant pain in the rear end in replacing a Bose system in seemingly any car. It was the case all the way back with the Delco/Bose in our '94 Z28, and as far as I know it's still the case with the Bose in my '07 Mazdaspeed3. You either have to find stock replacements or look at a total swapout.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





This isn't so much a question as much as wishful thinking - but gently caress I wish this was available 13 years ago when I cut the dash of my GMC.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





davertron posted:

Ok, I know the advice so far is "buy a new HU", but what if I picked this thing up? http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepa...=pd_sim_sbs_e_1

The price is right, and I don't really care if the quality is garbage as long as sound comes out since I pretty much only listen to podcasts anyway. Could I just wire that directly into my current speakers if I removed my head-unit? I know I still need to get power to it somehow (running a new wire, or maybe taking the current PS and re-wiring it with a cig lighter instead, etc.) but otherwise this kind of thing seems like it would work.

I have that amp (or at least another Chinese amp that looks externally identical) plugged into alternatively a netbook or my phone in the garage. It actually sounds really drat good to me, especially for the price.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





davertron posted:

Update: This http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_i=507846 sounds like it could solve my problem, anyone have any experience with one of these? How are these different than the noise suppressor I linked above?

I have that exact device, to solve a ground loop issue on my Mazdaspeed3 factory aux in. It worked great, until somehow one of the cables broke internally. I just haven't bothered opening it up to fix it.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





1) Please, for gently caress's sake, find and use your shift key more often. You're able to type question marks so clearly it works!

2) A head-unit, while sold and treated as a single piece, is still going to contain multiple components - ultimately it still is going to have one bit of circuitry handling the radio, and another bit acting as the MP3 player, and both of those are going to feed into the internal amplifier. It sounds like the MP3 player's output is at a lower level than the radio's output (which is presumably what the amplifier and volume knob were calibrated around).

Unfortunately if your headunit doesn't have a way to adjust the level on a per-source basis, you're hosed. My low-end Sony headunit lets me adjust volume per-input so that a volume level of '20' sounds equally crazy loud whether I'm listening to the tuner or to streaming bluetooth audio (and presumably, CD or aux-in if I ever actually used them!)

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





nwin posted:

Oh wow...so we'll never see an iphone with the lightning port that can connect to a radio and play sound? Only options are an aux input cable from the headphone slot or Bluetooth then?

No, there's still digital audio / data connectivity available; the factory head unit in my '13 CR-V will grab music from my wife's iPhone 5. But if the head unit depended on the old analog audio functionality, then short of someone making what would certainly be a non-trivial adapter, you're boned.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





some texas redneck posted:

Figure this is the best place to ask this.

Have any of you guys used Bluetooth -> 3.5mm adapters? Good/bad? Suggested models? Looking for A2DP streaming only.

It'd just be nice not having to plug my phone into the stereo every time I get in the car (and since I do delivery, that could be upwards of 30 times in a single shift), but at the moment, I can't afford to replace the head unit (thanks to needing a $100-150 adapter to keep all of the stock functions )

I have this one from Monoprice hooked up in my garage and it works alright - audio quality is good, though it doesn't seem to auto-pair (I've never tried to make it auto-pair, though). It's not really meant for mobile use (it has a USB A port on it for some reason) but Monoprice sells A-A cables that will let it plug into any USB power adapter.

Amusingly enough I have said that I would kill for forward/back buttons on it so I didn't have to get my greasy hands on my phone to change songs, and now it looks like they have another one that does.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I've got four of these in my Ranger. I think they have a newer version than those that can be had for about the same money. I'm drat happy with them for the money I paid not-quite-three years ago.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





So I'm replacing the headunit in my GMC, and I want to redo the horrible mess of wiring that has patch jobs dating back to at least 1990, if not older. There's no such thing as a "factory wiring harness" for this thing since the factory setup had one dinky speaker in the center of the dash, while I'm using door-mounted speakers.

Currently, I have the head unit's harness hardwired into the various appropriate wires on the truck, but I'd rather move it to some form of pluggable harness so that if I ever replace the head unit again, I don't have to rewire the thing yet again. Is there any sort of generic replacement for the car-side of the wiring harness, so I can just hardwire a female receptacle in there?

And of course as soon as I finish this post I decide to pull up Metra's site. Is one of these harnesses basically what I'm looking for to provide the car-side connector? Just need to find the smallest / simplest looking one...

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Dec 30, 2013

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





There's approximately zero space to work in behind the dash on this truck, and it would make the difference between having to redo all of those crimps on ever-shorter wires in that limited space, or being able to do that work once and only have to re-crimp the adapter harness, which can be easily put together anywhere else and just plugged in.

I'm half tempted to do a late-model Ford reverse harness just so I can swap head units easily between my Ranger and my GMC if I ever get the urge to.

Ideally I'd also be able to easily buy some lengths of the aftermarket-color-coded wire to run new wires for the speakers, constant 12V, and keyed 12V since all of those have some questionable-at-best splicing going on.

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Dec 30, 2013

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Devyl posted:

Yup. Just wire your speakers to the harness of your choice and then buy the adapter harness for your radio to the stock harness you installed. Just make sure the one you choose has the appropriate wires for however many speakers you have installed.

This is the route I went. I did end up going with a '98+ Ford setup since I know the connector is relatively compact, and it makes it easier to swap head units with my Ranger if I ever get the itch to do so. I've just got the driver's speaker to wire up and I can start putting everything back together again.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





SynMoo posted:


edit: Looks like you can disable the DSP in software on the factory head unit, the option is even called 'FLAT'. Quality LOC can handle the rest.

Wonder if this can be done to the current generation CRV. The factory EQ is not only terrible for aftermarket speakers, it also changes based on volume setting - so if you do stick a cleansweep on it you can't change the volume on the head unit anymore.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Fucknag posted:

Are you positive those are 1/8" connectors? They almost look more like RCA jacks.

Turning this around, are you sure the mic is a 1/8" / 3.5mm and not actually a 2.5mm? It seems kinda skinny but it could just be a weird photo.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Since I went and bought a WJ Grand Cherokee... anyone got any recommendations on a decent head unit that will fit it and add a rear view camera? Unfortunately it looks like a double-DIN is a difficult fit, and even the near-ubiqutious (and terrible) Chinese WinCE/Android head units that at least fit in the factory slot don't seem to exist for the older Mopars.


Nevermind, found this but that's just about my last resort option.

I would really rather avoid having a second screen stuck in there just to see while backing up, and getting Bluetooth / aux-in would be nice.

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Aug 27, 2014

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Aflicted posted:

That looks closer to a double DIN opening.

Believe me, it's not - that's a Ranger/Explorer setup, it's 1.5DIN at best.

I'm trying to keep my head unit in the WJ for now just because I like the way it integrates with the steering wheel, but I might eventually bite the bullet and spend $60 on a steering wheel adapter.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





How do you have the head unit hooked up to the amp? Bypassed, speaker level, or preamp outputs?

Edit: I see Viggen is off his meds but on his wallet.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Then you're probably feeding speaker-level audio into the factory amp if you didn't do any mucking around down at the amp as well. The odd thing is, as far as I can tell this "should" work, because I think that's what the factory head unit actually does - people swap across all of the late-'90s / early-'00s Mopar head units all the time and yet I've never seen anyone say "this head unit will only work in cars with/without the Infinity amplifier".

But, if you read wjjeeps they mention using a line-level converter when dealing with an aftermarket headunit and the factory external amp. So it might still be needed? I'm not 100% on this myself.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





If you want the radio to be on all the time (and not just when the key is in run/acc), you would connect the wire that would normally go to switched power, to constant power instead. You wouldn't need (or want) to touch an actual switched-power circuit in that case.

With that said, I'd be more annoyed about having to push-and-hold the power button every time I get in or out of the car, than waiting for BT to sync.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





ExecuDork posted:

I'd like to upgrade from the OEM unit in my new-to-me truck: 1997 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, with the "autoset" AM/FM/Cassette double-DIN-sized headunit. I'm happy with the factory speakers and I don't have any complicating things to worry about such as steering-wheel controls; I've been reading Crutchfield's help files and I think I'll be happy with the factory amp. The current setup sounds fine and works well, but has no way to input from a separate device except through a crappy cassette adaptor thing I bought; it's getting tiresome to use my tablet for tunes when driving. When I was in Australia a few years ago I replaced the OEM unit in the 2001 Ford Falcon ute I had at the time, and it was a pretty simple process. I'm trying to remember the names of things, but the shopping list that time was:
- Sony single-DIN headunit
- Sony-to-universal standard (named ISO? maybe?) wiring
- ISO-to-Ford wiring
- Ford Focus dash kit (moulded plastic thing that accepted the single-DIN headunit and filled the weird Ford-oval-shaped space in the dash)
plus those little U-shaped hook things needed to pull the factory Ford unit.

Other than wanting a different brand - I wasn't really happy with the Sony, it had some annoying features - can I expect a similar shopping list this time around? Crutchfield is suggesting a slightly simpler setup, with just the dash kit and a single wiring adaptor from Metra (plus the U-shaped removal tools).

Are you sure there's even a "factory amp"? I don't know that Rangers of that vintage had any high-end audio options that would have involved an amp outside of the head unit itself.

You shouldn't need to buy the wiring harness for the head unit itself - it should come with a harness that plugs into the head unit and has bare wiring. The Metra wiring adapter will connect to the wiring included with the head unit so it's truly plug-and-play.

At any rate, the hardest part by far on my '98 was getting the head unit out, and that was easy as hell.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





ExecuDork posted:

If I understand you correctly, the headunit alone will be capable of wiring into my truck, but the Metra adaptor will save me the trouble of matching up wires and properly connecting them. I have no experience of properly putting together wires in a vehicle, but I really like just plugging into sockets and then clicking everything into place. That was my experience in Australia, and I'm hoping to replicate that here in Canada.

Capable, yes, but you'd be hacking up the factory wiring to do so. The metra wiring harness and the one that come with the head unit just get connected together so it plugs in just like the factory one did.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





ExecuDork posted:

Welp, I went to crappy tire and came out with a good-enough JVC head unit, the plastic bits to fit the hole in my Ranger's dash when I pull the OEM unit, and some wires to put together. I'll find out the details when I pull the factory unit - I seriously have way more wires than I need - but it's clear that I will need to connect some wires. Colour-to-colour is fine, but I'm going to need some wire connectors.

1. What kind of connectors do I need?
2. How big are the wires? They look kinda like 20ga but I'm not sure.

Easiest way to do this job well is to get some automotive butt crimps. You'll want the small red ones for almost all of them, if not all of them. Grab a ratcheting crimper (Harbor Freight has a decent one) and go to town. You can technically crimp without a ratcheting crimper, but it is so much easier with one.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Cage posted:

I have a 99 ford explorer with the stock radio/cd player. I also have a 6-cd radio from a 2004 ford mustang that is sitting unused. Is there any chance that there are some wiring kits that will let me throw the 6-cd in my explorer? I don't really know what terms I should be searching for.

edit: The connections are indeed different, I already checked.

You need a "reverse harness" for the Mustang, which should plug into the radio, like the Metra 71-1771. Strangely they list this as '98+ Ford which should theoretically fit both your donor and recipient, perhaps you need this one instead?

One of those, plus whatever normal adapter you'd use to connect an aftermarket radio to the Explorer (70-1771?)

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





MikeyTsi posted:

In short, no.

There are some things that are compatible, like Blaupunkt was/is using Sony CD changers so you could mix and match those, but the plugs they use tend to be proprietary and/or different wiring.

Or old Aiwa headunits and Sony headunits. Same physical plug, almost all of the pins are even in the right place. Except that where Aiwa puts their amp turn-on, Sony puts a power antenna turn-on. (Either that, or the Aiwa and Sony use the same pin for that and the Aiwa harness I tried only had antenna turn-on, no amp-turn on.)

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Buy a different camera and lop the connector off? It's only two conductors, not really difficult to reconnect it after you pass the wire through.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





The stock setup in my Honda has that same delay, but the old (2011ish) Sony I have in my WJ doesn't. I don't think the 2013ish Sony in my C10 does either but I haven't driven it enough to be sure

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Run the dash off of the front outputs, kick panels off of the rear, unless you're also running some speakers on the rear deck or something.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Suran37 posted:

I am looking to replace my stock system in my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee (has infinity gold system or w/e).

I am thinking about the following parts:
Receiver: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X37...el.html?tp=5684 (+$35 for steering wheel control kit)
Front Speakers and Tweeters: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CS...tml?tp=105&l=C&
Rear Speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CS...674.html?tp=105
Sub: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206VCW...122.html?tp=112
Amp: Currently has the stock 6-channel Infinity amp, but I'm guessing it will need/recommended to be replaced. As far as I can tell I will need a 5-channel amp and the cheapest I saw was http://www.crutchfield.com/p_530PN5...D.html?tp=35808

I guess my questions are just:
Do I need to buy a new amp? Is the Soundstream brand any good or should I look elsewhere?
Can I save a decent chunk of money buying a sub and box separate or does it work out to be the same cost? I would probably buy the sub online and try to find somewhere local to get a box.
I have radio/volume controls on the back of the wheel, do I need to buy a kit in order to keep that?
Any other recommended brands? Currently at $775 and I might look to chip it down a little bit.

You will definitely want to replace the amp if you replace the speakers. You can power the factory amp with an aftermarket head unit (it takes speaker-level input) but it does some filtering and treats the front door speakers as woofers only. It also doesn't really have any provision for a sub. No comments on any of the components you've actually listed because all I've done to my WJ is swap the head unit for an old Sony I had laying around that has Bluetooth.

With that said, for the steering wheel control, get the Metra Axxess AWSC-1. That's the one I have, and it can connect to the databus wire at the head unit to get steering wheel inputs. The wiring harness adapter you get might even give you that wire as a "dimmer" wire (my Scosche wiring kit did) so you can do it without hacking any factory wiring. The Jeep boards love the lovely PAC SWI-RC, even though you have to cut it in place of the factory wiring in the steering column to use it.

Mr. Mambold posted:

It's already installed. Maybe try reading the thread. Man.

You installed a cutoff switch in your negative battery lead to isolate it to work around a key-off battery drain. This caused you to lose your radio settings every time you open that switch. No amount of running extra positive wires from the battery to the head unit will fix that. Running a separate ground from the head unit to the battery is some really hacky poo poo and is begging for you to run into some ground loop / isolation problems, especially since the radio itself is probably still connected to the overall chassis ground in some manner. So as everyone else already said, your switch is now probably just diverting the entire key-off drain through the little ground wire.

I also hope you never accidentally try to start the car without flipping that switch.

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Mar 9, 2016

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Mr. Mambold posted:

edit.


It is super hacky poo poo, that's why I'm asking some guys who I'd think know more about it before I go and do it.


Lol, why would I do that? Do you think anything would actually happen?

Your head unit is almost certainly not just floating in space, completely isolated from the rest of the car. The radio chassis itself (and as STR mentioned, antenna) are probably grounded to the rest of the car by means of physical attachment (the bolts holding the radio to the car, for example). So if you cut the ground lead off of the back of the head unit and run a new wire from the head unit to the battery, the rest of the grounds in the car (which all connect to the body of the car, like the radio) will again have a path to the battery by means of the new "radio-only" ground cable. So your isolation switch wouldn't isolate anything.

If you run this bypass ground wire, and leave the switch open, and try to start the car, a range of things could happen. Best case for you, the starter doesn't have enough power available to even try to engage and you just get some angry clicking. Worst case, it attempts to start and dumps enough ground current through your lovely rear end wiring that it cooks the wire and attempts to self-immolate.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Mr. Mambold posted:

Oh, I wasn't going to cut any grounds. I was puzzled why the existing ground and the bypass positive lead i ran wasn't sufficient to maintain an open circuit to the accessory lead to the head unit.

Electricity needs a complete path all the way around, that's why it's called a circuit. Your disconnect switch is on the ground side, adding more leads to the positive side won't do anything but make a bigger mess. Here's how your car radio should be wired, more or less:



In a super simplified description, the yellow wire runs from the battery straight to the radio. It's what the radio uses to keep the clock / settings, and in most cases I've seen, it's also the one that provides primary power to the rest of the circuits in the radio. The red wire runs through the ignition switch, and is basically used to tell the radio "hey the car is on, so you should be on". The radio ground wire (black) probably connects directly to the body of the car somewhere under the dash. The negative terminal of the battery also connects to the body of the car, probably somewhere under the hood. Because the car can be treated as one giant chunk of metal, it's conductive, and thus you have a complete path for electricity the whole way around.

What you've done is this:


Whenever you open / turn off that disconnect switch, you eliminate the path for any electricity to flow through the battery. This lets you work around the discharge problem you have, but it causes the radio to lose its memory every time you do. You can add as many positive wires as you want but you still have a missing link at that disconnect switch.

If you directly grounded the radio to the battery, it would look like this:


Now you have power to the radio again and it doesn't forget everything. However, because the radio is most likely still grounded to the rest of the car as well, that bypass wire could (and probably would) end up carrying all of the electricity that you're stopping with the disconnect switch. So the switch is now doing nothing but making your car dangerous.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





The yellow wire in my diagram existed before you added your own hackwire, so all you've done is duplicate wiring (possibly bypassing some fuses in the process). Adding more wires to the red/yellow side does nothing if the switch that disconnects *everything* from the negative terminal of the battery is open.

Mr. Mambold posted:

Obviously, the radio is still grounded. There's an inline fuse on the yellow wire that would blow when amperage went over 15. So the car dangerous part should be contained by that.
What I'm wondering now is if there is a switched gate in the radio, that when main power (ignition and red wire) is open, the accessory lead (yellow wire) automatically closes. I'd think yes, but that bothers me. If I run the straight ground back, I find out, won't I?

The concern isn't whatever electricity is coming through the yellow wire normally to feed the radio - the concern is all of the other circuits that would be looking for a ground, and would find it by the fact that your radio is still grounded to the rest of the car.

I'm running out of possible ways to explain this, but in a nutshell it seems like you've got a pretty poor grasp on how electricity works and should really not be loving around in your car's wiring. The two problems you are trying to "solve" - parasitic battery drain, and not having to reset your radio - are not mutually solvable by this disconnect switch. Anything you do to try and make the radio "work around" the disconnect will make the disconnect pointless and/or dangerous.

There are only two options that solve both the parasitic drain and the radio memory problem. One is to properly identify the parasitic drain and disconnect it in some manner - pull the fuse if it's something you never use, put a disconnect switch on just that circuit, etc. The other would be to fix the drain properly - which is what you should do if you go to the effort of identifying the problem circuit in the first place.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Raluek posted:

Do those ones not use the U-shaped Ford radio removal tools? My dad's ranger does, but it's a few years newer.

I think it uses them, I honestly can't remember but I think it can be faked?

It still doesn't get any goddamn easier than a Ranger. Super goddamn easy to swap it out. Speakers are cake too.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Scrapez posted:

You're going to destroy the dashboard, impede your view and have crappier sound in order to save like $100?

Not to mention "extra debris flying around the cabin in a crash".

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Get some form of proper seatback mount for a tablet and just mount it up when needed instead of 24x7?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah, it's counterintuitively cheaper to get one with a CD player still. Probably due to scale.

I have this in my WJ. Works great and meets all of your requirements other than it also has a CD player. http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/P...ers/DEH-X8700BH

I need to get a photo of it in action one of these days. Smashing Pumpkins song showed up as "Bullet With Butt"

Edit: I'm a child.

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Feb 19, 2017

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





The silver ring around the volume knob twists forward / back. 99% of the time I use my steering wheel controls. It's been a while so I'm sure it's no longer in production.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





If a replacement cable for it is cost-prohibitive or hard to get - it probably wouldn't be too difficult to replace it with a generic panel-mount jack and solder the existing wiring to it. Unless they've got that jack mounted to some sort of PCB right there at the port.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





savesthedayrocks posted:

Perfect. So that's basically what the OEM one would have looked like, so I:

cut the current splices
1:1 wire that back matching the OEM color to the adapter color
Then proceed as a normal install

Thanks for the help!

The one reverse harness I got had the same wiring colors as aftermarket harnesses, not the car's OE colors.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Laserface posted:

I have a Pioneer head unit in my 2009 Mitsubishi evo X and the previous owner did a very nice installation but the steering wheel control adapter is poo poo.

it quite regularly drops the skip button function, which is probably the most important function. skip back will usually work, as will volume. Phone controls are usually OK but there is the odd occasion that it drops them all and nothing works.

attempting to reprogram the head units steering controls does not resolve the issue, usually it comes back on its own OR stays broken until the car is turned off.

it appears to be this one, or identical one made by another brand:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aerpro-C...s0AAOSwpONZVcBm

What is the best/favorite/popular one to use?

Also, if possible, I would love one that allows me to reprogram the buttons. I currently have Vol +/- and >>| / |<< and MODE (which is source). I want MODE to be Play/Pause because I dont really ever change off BT audio.

I have the Metra AWSC1 in my Jeep. Works great, it even picks up the signal over the pci bus instead of needing to hack the wiring harness. Might be different for your car.

It does support button remapping but I haven't tried it

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