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This came up in the Jeep thread:commissargribb posted:
Krakkles posted:Are there any better stereos like that? Ideally, I'm looking for AM/FM, (multiple mono/stereo) AUX in, USB, and (maybe) an SD card. And I'm willing to spend more than $30 to get a good one. If it matters, the Jeep has 4 (~4"?) speakers, two in the front doors, two in the rear, and I just picked up a set of Infinity references to replace whatever poo poo was in them before. I'm not likely to add a subwoofer or more speakers or anything, and putting an amp in would also be ... unlikely. Bonus points for less flashy lights and/or red display. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Aug 1, 2013 |
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Aug 1, 2013 17:11
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Is there any reason this microphone wouldn't work with this headunit? It says it's for Clarion only, but as far as I can tell, it only has the one connection (the 3.5mm mic jack), which is what the stock mic connects to the Kenwood headunit with. I've obtained a HU without a mic, and in looking for one, this one looks pretty nice. In particular, I like the noise cancelling aspect, since this is for use in a rather ... disharmonious vehicle. If it won't work, any other suggestions?
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Aug 5, 2013 20:49
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General_Failure posted:I put it in my project thread but I'll mention it here. I grabbed this for now off eBay secondhand. That's why the trim ring thing is missing. The display and controls are nice and simple. I hat to tie the positive rails together and run them off an always on source because the car has an ignition circuit but no accessory circuit. Having the main always on wouldn't cause any extra drain would it? I know it's a per case thing but a general answer if possible would be good. If I suspect anything I'll just put a multimeter inline to check the quiescent current. Wire a switch in.
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Aug 23, 2013 05:27
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General_Failure posted:I don't mean like on on. I mean always having the main power feed connected. Theoretically. I've seen a lot of headunits that actually draw power even though they're "switched off".
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Aug 23, 2013 05:41
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I currently have a Kenwood KDC-X996 in my Jeep, and it has this random recurring problem - it will suddenly stop playing any audio sources. It will still beep when you press a button, so it's pushing some kind of signal to the speakers, but it won't play any audio. The last time this happened, I pulled the head unit out, unplugged it completely, didn't see any change, pulled the fuse at the back, and replaced it (as in, the fuse was fine, I took it out and put it back in), and the audio started working again. It's been about a month and it's doing it again. So, I'm curious about what could cause this, but I'm mostly considering it an excuse to upgrade. I'm mostly happy with the feature set, but there are definitely some gripes I have about it, so I'm hoping for recommendations. I mostly just hook my iPhone up to this and play audio (music, audiobooks, Waze) through it - so I need USB input, and I like that the Kenwood had a wire running from the back. I need it to be able to hook up to RCA outs, and I value great sounding music, but I don't know much about setting it up - so I guess I need "a clean signal" or "powerful output", but I don't really know what that looks like. I need manual equalizer, and knobs for it would actually be cool, but I don't know if that's a thing. Bluetooth for audio, and phone, would be nice. I'd also like it if it had red display, but I would use something else if the other features are there. Budget ... Ideally $250 or less, I'm willing to spend more if necessary for something good. Edit: oh yeah, and it's a 1.5 DIN slot, but 1 or 1.5 would be fine. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jun 19, 2016 |
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Jun 19, 2016 23:30
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Scrapez posted:I'm a big fan of the sony mex-xb100bt. It covers a lot of the features you are looking for except manual equalizer buttons which Wil most likely be impossible to find in a modern head unit. Lowclock posted:The Pioneer DEH-80PRS has pretty much everything you're looking for and is around your price range. Not as much power as the Sony, but it sounds like you might be using external amps already anyways. bigtom posted:I just got a Kenwood KDC-BT762HD...Bluetooth, HD Radio, available SiriusXM and a very nice EQ that allows you to adjust the q and center frequency of the 3 bands. I love it so far and haven't had any issues with it - nice upgrade from the 710HD I put in my other truck. I like the Pioneer over the Sony so far, and I'm looking at the Kenwood right now.
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Jun 28, 2016 18:34
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Got my DEH-80PRS installed, loving it (except the keypress beep that I can't disable, but that's no biggy). The Auto-level/time adjust/EQ is pretty amazing - I installed a few more tweeters and was trying to get them to sound right, ended up running that and it fixed them up very well. Only problem - it's now running a ton of bass through the front 6.5" speakers. Can I lower that without undoing the Auto adjustments?
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Jul 3, 2016 20:03
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Ok, I know the advice is ignore the rears, but since I don't have the "something needs to be neglected or skipped" clause, I'm looking for some advice. The vehicle is a 2000 Jeep Cherokee. So far, it's got (old, german) MB Quart speakers up front - a 6.5" speaker in each door, and a tweeter on each end of the dash. It also has these Pyle tweeter sets on the visors. I'm adding a powered subwoofer this weekend, and while I've got to finish that before I really make any decisions, I'm trying to figure out what to put in the rear roof speaker locations. It's currently got two Infinity drivers, which are labeled as a 6" woofer. At the very least, I'd like to add an amplifier to drive the rears, and realistically, I'd be very open to spending a bit to do amplifier, crossovers, and some sort of speakers, in the name of better sound quality and more volume. Currently, the front sounds pretty good. There's a very definite increase in volume and clarity over the original old & busted speakers and even, indeed, the infinity speakers I swapped in after that. I think that I'm happy with how the front sounds, and I'm not sure what the best way to add to that is - should I just amplify the existing 6" woofers? Should I get 6.5" 2 ways? I would like to get a recommendation on amplifier (/ crossovers if necessary) as well. Up front, I've got a very small Alpine amp driving everything, and it seems to do quite well. I might be able to find another such amp on eBay, but it dates back to at least the early 90s, so it's not something I can buy on amazon or crutch field. So: What should I put in my rear 6.5" speaker spots? What amp should I use to run them? Are two ways worth it, and if so, what kind of crossover should I use? Krakkles fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Jul 8, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 02:42
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MMD3 posted:I just jumped ship from iPhone to Android so my Alpine CDA-117 will no longer work with my phone unfortunately. It might be for the best because it was beginning to have all sorts of intermittent moments where it wouldn't recognize my phone and would keep disconnecting/reconnecting. Not sure if it has something to do with the cable or otherwise but I'm ready for a better solution now anyway. Pioneer DEH-80PRS Mobile CD Receiver with 3-Way Active Crossover Network, Auto EQ and Auto Time Alignment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Y44DAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lDZZxb4X8FMCJ My biggest concern was "sounds good", and it does. It offers a huge amount of adjustability and control over outputs and made my mishmash of speakers sound great together. It's in one car already and is going in the other shortly. Only gripe is that it has a key beep that can't be suppressed, but that's no biggie.
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Sep 6, 2016 22:40
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MMD3 posted:This certainly looks nice but it's also like a $200 price jump over the ones I was looking at and doesnt have aptx for Bluetooth. Having a hard time seeing what benefits that would be relevant to me other than a prettier display
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Sep 7, 2016 03:27
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Assuming Velocibacon is right (I don't know), you might be better off doing this in lieu of the amp and sub: https://smile.amazon.com/Planet-Aud...ds=planet+audio I have one of these in my 4x4 and it pretty much nails exactly what you're describing - it's not going to win competitions, but it sounds good and it's more than adequate (I think I have it turned all the way or almost all the way down and it's still quite sufficient). Plus it's less than either of those components alone.
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Dec 2, 2016 19:43
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powderific posted:If it were me, I'd probably wanna spring for a bit nicer main speakers (components ideally) even if it meant getting a bit cheaper sub and running your main speakers off the deck's power.
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Dec 3, 2016 02:11
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Threaded clamps usually brings this to mind for me: https://www.google.com/#q=hose+clamp+threaded But maybe he means these: https://www.google.com/#q=clip+nuts ? Also called U nuts, speed nuts, or clip on nuts. NUTS NUTS NUTS
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Feb 8, 2017 18:20
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I was reading this getting all huffy-puffy until I realized that I had a Kenwood deck before, that repeatedly broke, and I therefore replaced it with a Pioneer, which is actually what I have now. So, I agree, carry on!
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Mar 14, 2017 23:16
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Goobish posted:Is dynamat good for solving my trunk rattling issue? I only want to be 51% douchebag. Dynamat can help, but it's not directly addressing that issue. Unless you're just literally putting it between the things that are rattling, which ... it's kind of expensive for something that any old rubber sheet will handle.
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Aug 15, 2017 02:57
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Important question: Did the speaker that you replaced work? If so, you can limit the scope to something that you did when replacing it. A short could result in no sound or a buzzing sound. Neither would be indicative to me.
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Oct 18, 2017 18:03
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sarcastx posted:Head Unit: Buy a Pioneer.
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Nov 13, 2017 18:03
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Sormus posted:Does anyone have any strong opinions on active subwoofers? I'm thinking of lazy install of something either under the driver's seat or in the trunk. Planet Audio P8UAW 8 inch 800-watt Amplified Subwoofer System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKGWCGA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf It’s not going to win an SPL competition, but it puts out tons of bass, sounds good, and it’s worked really well. Has lots of adjustments if your head unit doesn’t handle it. Took about 30 minutes to install, piece of cake.
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Feb 19, 2018 18:28
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Yep, like he said, flat piece of metal in those corners. I like to jiggle the head unit (  ) to free it as I work at each one. There's probably a catch at each corner, and it won't come out until you release all of them, so angling the head unit back and forth can help each one stay unhooked once it is released.
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Apr 4, 2018 00:05
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I don't know if there's an up or downside to having two fuses in the line, but personally, I'd have skipped the amp wiring kit and just used some appropriate wire to extend the harness as needed (if at all). Basically, you probably didn't need the wiring kit, just a bit of wire to make power/ground long enough and some RCAs (/whatever input you're using).
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Jun 21, 2018 23:34
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It looks like the sub I bought is out of stock, but I would just throw it out there as - I wouldn't be afraid of an all in one, nor a relatively inexpensive one - this one was $120. I've been very happy with it, have no problems with it, and it's well more capable than I need (I think I have it running at <40% capacity - it's turned waaaaay down). My needs were similar - trying to make it sound better, but not competing in SPL or interested in making everything rattle. Edit: Looks like there's similar models from other brands on amazon, I'd pick the one that looks like it'll fit + has reviews you're comfortable with. Alternatively, sonicelectronix has a similar planetaudio model (not sure what the difference is ...) for $99. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Dec 3, 2018 |
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Dec 3, 2018 21:13
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It definitely sounds like you need to add high-pass filtering on the feed to those tweeters - trying to run frequencies they can't produce through them would absolutely do what you're describing (it's exactly what crappy bluetooth/monitor/laptop speakers have issue with). I'm not sure which Kenwood Exelon you've got, but most modern head units have some function for adjusting outputs to specific speakers. If it has an auto-setup, I'd even start with that - on my Pioneer headunit, it does a great job of setting up everything except the sub, which just then needs small adjustments (likely moreso preference adjustments than "correctness" adjustments).
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Dec 8, 2018 23:14
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Are there any kits or how-tos on putting a double DIN in a 2000 Mustang? Crutchfield thinks it won't fit, but it sure looks like you could just cut the plastic support in between the two single slots and stuff a double DIN in there.
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Feb 21, 2019 04:52
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toplitzin posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ilLIBBnNfk Best idea I’ve got so far is find an 01-04 and grab the trim, hope it fits.
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Feb 21, 2019 14:23
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Groovy! Found a bezel on eBay, ordered. Thank you!
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Feb 21, 2019 21:31
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Cross-posting in the hope of finding an answer:Krakkles posted:Hey y'all, got a question. I'm trying to identify some superfluous connectors in a 2000 Mustang GT (w/ Mach 460). The car had an aftermarket headunit when I bought it, and I'm currently replacing it with something that isn't a Sony. However, there are three connectors which were unused up until this point, and I wanted to find out what they are. (These were all unplugged for the last ~ Krakkles fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Mar 1, 2019 |
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Mar 1, 2019 00:51
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Geoj posted:Thinking there may have been some advanced for its time features like adaptive volume or steering wheel controls I did a casual Google search and found this:
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Mar 1, 2019 03:32
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DrChu posted:the touch screen is resistive For the question side of things: If I want to switch on my camera based on the backup lights or a manual switch, how do I wire dual power? It seems like if I just run both wires in, it'll power on my backup lights when I flip the switch. Which ... I debated whether or not I even mind that, because it'd make it more obvious the camera is on, and probably light up whatever I'm looking at, but I'm curious how else it could be done - I know there's a way, I just have no idea what it is.
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Mar 5, 2019 22:54
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um excuse me posted:This is a basic integrated circuitry problem. What you're describing is an OR gate, in which the output is powered if any given input is powered. The inputs are dielectrically separated so they don't interefere with each other. This being said, I'm horrible at actual IC design so I can only show you the door. DrChu posted:I tested mine out by tapping the camera power line to the 12V acc line going into the head unit. The head unit switches to the screen automatically based on the reverse trigger, and I should be able to start it anytime manually if I want using the on screen options. I guess this way the camera is always powered on if the car is, is there any reason that would be a bad thing? Mine was $21.99, sooooo ... Oh! And while I wanted to be able to switch to the camera view and just look without putting the car in reverse, the real reason I wanted to be able to control the power separately was that I was worried about a delay when activating it. Total non-issue - it boots and sends an image instantly. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Mar 6, 2019 |
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Mar 6, 2019 15:58
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powderific posted:Why do fancy upgrade OEM systems always have weird speaker impedance? Bose is usually something really low like 2 ohms or whatever, and I've just discovered that our LS430's Mark Levinson sound system has a 16 ohm subwoofer. What's the deal? I've never had any normal speaker component that was somewhere in the 4 to 8 ohm range. Question: If I'm getting alternator feedback (whine that matches engine RPM), am I better off adding a ground (I.e., keep the existing ground, but tee in another ground to a separate point) or replacing the ground entirely (ditch the one in the harness, just use one to bare metal behind the dash)? I'm open to either but don't know what's more likely to fix it. The old head unit was using the harness ground and had no issue so I was hopeful it would work with this one as well, but no dice.
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Mar 9, 2019 00:10
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Krakkles posted:Question: If I'm getting alternator feedback (whine that matches engine RPM), am I better off adding a ground (I.e., keep the existing ground, but tee in another ground to a separate point) or replacing the ground entirely (ditch the one in the harness, just use one to bare metal behind the dash)?
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Mar 9, 2019 19:36
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Humbug posted:I'm of the opinion that the more the merrier when it comes to grounds, as long as it doesn't become messy or confusing. Try to tee in the new ground as close to the receiver as possible. I would leave the stock ground in place. Have you measured any voltage drops at the headunit? Do you have any amps or crossovers? Have you checked the body-battery and engine-body grounds as well? The Mach 460 hardware in my 2000 Mustang GT does have external amps (x2), but no crossovers, as far as I know. The wiring for these amps have not changed beyond the plug that goes to the headunit (at which point, I've used a new adapter which goes to the RCA outs on my headunit). I have not looked at the body-battery or engine-body grounds, but can definitely do so - is there anything specific I'm looking for, or basically just making sure that they're there and well-connected and substantial? (I.e., add some grounding straps) Thank you both for your input - I was always under the impression that grounding of the headunit was to blame for this, so it's good to learn.
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Mar 10, 2019 02:03
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VelociBacon posted:Does the '00 GT have a supercharger? You're not hearing that whine are you? Sorry I know it seems like a dumb thing to rule out but a SC will absolutely give a whine based on engine RPM. I wish that were my problem!
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Mar 10, 2019 02:19
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Yeah, I'd agree with that. The NEX line is fantastic.
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May 1, 2019 22:18
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Wasabi the J posted:Android auto is great because it takes all the functions of your phone and makes them more simple to use while driving.
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May 2, 2019 03:49
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1400NEX, goes away without interaction. Pointedly, I was worried it would mess with backup cam, but as soon as the backup cam powers up, it’s gone.
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Jun 29, 2019 18:28
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VelociBacon posted:Are you putting a car battery in the suitcase? FogHelmut posted:So 18650 batteries are 3.7v each, I'd be at 11.1v with 3 or 14.8v with 4. If I'm going to need a voltage regulator either way, I won't make my own battery pack.
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Jul 17, 2019 20:02
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meatpimp posted:Okay. I was all set to install a new head unit in my '05 Escalade today. I ordered a MVH-2300NEX from Amazon. I went to test fit the unit and saw they actually sent me a MVH-AV251BT. Obviously, this is not cool. But as I look at the units spec-for-spec, they seem identical... what am I missing and is it worth it to return and rebuy, or just put this one in instead? Krakkles posted:CarPlay and Android Auto appear to be on the 2300 only. Definitely return and get the right one.
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Sep 8, 2019 18:18
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Weird, but Crutchfield certainly makes mistakes. I’d just send it back and not worry.
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Sep 8, 2019 20:01
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falz posted:Sorry, this is off topic. Is there a similar thread for Home Audio? Actually what I'm looking for is something related to a A/V furniture recommendations (floating / wall hanging, like ikea BESTA). Getting your first home audio system? Read this.
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Oct 7, 2019 18:26
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